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penguinz
03-17-2006, 10:56 AM
I have a '96 Nissan Altima. When I make a sharp turn from a stop I hear a clicking noise from the front end. Happens when turning both right and left. The noise seems to subside after driving the car for a bit.

Any ideas?

Bwana
03-17-2006, 10:57 AM
CV joint?

listopencil
03-17-2006, 10:58 AM
CV joint?

That's what popped into my head, but I'm no mechanic.

Bwana
03-17-2006, 10:59 AM
That's what popped into my head, but I'm no mechanic.

Nor am I, but I play one on TV.

StcChief
03-17-2006, 10:59 AM
CV joint or tie rod ends, rack and pinion.

Need to get up on a rack to see where the wear is.

How many miles??

penguinz
03-17-2006, 11:01 AM
CV joint or tie rod ends, rack and pinion.

Need to get up on a rack to see where the wear is.

How many miles??
176,000

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 11:02 AM
I have a '96 Nissan Altima. When I make a sharp turn from a stop I hear a clicking noise from the front end. Happens when turning both right and left. The noise seems to subside after driving the car for a bit.

Any ideas?

CV (Constant Velocity) Joint.
The boot has probably torn and allowed weather (rain, snow, road salt) to wash the grease out of the CV Joint causeín it to go bad.
Donít freak out when your mechanic recommends changing the entire output shaft, itís usually cheaper that way.

Bwana
03-17-2006, 11:03 AM
176,000

Could me all the above then. Ouch............. As stated, you need to get that thing up on a rack and you can figure it out in about 10 seconds.

Iowanian
03-17-2006, 11:03 AM
I'm with stupid. ^

Bwana
03-17-2006, 11:04 AM
Donít freak out when your mechanic recommends changing the entire output shaft, itís usually cheaper that way.

And a hell of a lot faster. :)

listopencil
03-17-2006, 11:04 AM
Nor am I, but I play one on TV.

I had a similar problem with a Japanes import about 10 years ago. It can get pretty expensive if you let it go too long. Apparently that noise is your car destroying itself from the inside out.

listopencil
03-17-2006, 11:04 AM
Kamikaze!

penguinz
03-17-2006, 11:06 AM
And a hell of a lot faster. :)
I am my mechanic.

Bwana
03-17-2006, 11:07 AM
I had a similar problem with a Japanes import about 10 years ago. It can get pretty expensive if you let it go too long. Apparently that noise is your car destroying itself from the inside out.

Oh hell yes! If you let it go to long, it can take out the muffler bearing and then you're forked! :hmmm:

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 11:09 AM
What about a 2002 Toyota Sienna that has no oil leaks, engine runs smooth, but at start up has a blue-ish white smoke. It doesnt happen every time its started up, usually first thing in the morning or after sitting for some time.

penguinz
03-17-2006, 11:10 AM
This last month has sucked for my car. :(

Altenator crapped out.
Had two spark plugs foul and when I pulled the cables they fell apart.

The O2 sensor after the catalyst blew out.

Had to replace the Valve cover gasket. Took it for a test drive and when I get back there is a crack in the top of the radiator. Had to take a day off of work to replace it.

Now this.

penguinz
03-17-2006, 11:11 AM
What about a 2002 Toyota Sienna that has no oil leaks, engine runs smooth, but at start up has a blue-ish white smoke. It doesnt happen every time its started up, usually first thing in the morning or after sitting for some time.
Bad head gasket or cracked head?

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 11:13 AM
Bad head gasket or cracked head?

Not losing any antifreeze though.

StcChief
03-17-2006, 11:13 AM
Head gasket... Take the oil filler cap off.

If it's milky substance around the cap. Likely a Head gasket leak and water is getting into the engine.

check your radiator, is water in it down?

listopencil
03-17-2006, 11:13 AM
This last month has sucked for my car. :(

Altenator crapped out.
Had two spark plugs foul and when I pulled the cables they fell apart.

The O2 sensor after the catalyst blew out.

Had to replace the Valve cover gasket. Took it for a test drive and when I get back there is a crack in the top of the radiator. Had to take a day off of work to replace it.

Now this.

I'd say you either love that car, you're a masochist or you're broke.

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 11:15 AM
Head gasket... Take the oil filler cap off.

If it's milky substance around the cap. Likely a Head gasket leak and water is getting into the engine.

check your radiator, is water in it down?

No, and I just changed the oil and checked the fluids. Only thing low was oil and wiper fluid.

Antifreeze was fine.

penguinz
03-17-2006, 11:16 AM
I'd say you either love that car, you're a masochist or you're broke.
Broke. Seriously looking at a refinance of the house so i can get a new car. The only thing bad about that would be that the new car would replace my wife's '96 escort.

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 11:58 AM
What about a 2002 Toyota Sienna that has no oil leaks, engine runs smooth, but at start up has a blue-ish white smoke. It doesnt happen every time its started up, usually first thing in the morning or after sitting for some time.

Youíre burnín oil, thatís what the ďbluish smokeĒ indicates. Now the trick is to find out why.
If it seems to be runín fine otherwise, Iíd rule out cracked head / head gasket since if that were the case youíd be loosing compression and itíd probably misfire on that cylinder(s). If there is no knocking or other indications of worn piston rings goín on, Iíd bet on worn valve guides. Particularly since it only happens after sitín overnight.
The fix means takeín the head(s) off and takeín it (them) to a machine shop for them to press out old guides and press in new ones. If you have to keep this vehicle, you may want to shop for a good salvage head(s) with lower miles on it. Thatíd be cheaper than replaceín valve guides but then you donít know how long itíll last.

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 12:02 PM
No, and I just changed the oil and checked the fluids. Only thing low was oil and wiper fluid.

Antifreeze was fine.

Good, this reinforces my opinion.
Another way to check for blown head gasket is to open the radiator cap while the engine is runín, careful donít do it hot or itíll puke hot antifreeze all over ya, and see if there are any bubbles rising to the top.
When the piston compresses the air fuel mixture it can force air past a crack in the head gasket / cylinder head into a cooling jacket. This is where the bubbles would be comeín from.
But again, I don't think that's what you've got.

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 12:10 PM
The fix means takeín the head(s) off and takeín it (them) to a machine shop for them to press out old guides and press in new ones. If you have to keep this vehicle, you may want to shop for a good salvage head(s) with lower miles on it. Thatíd be cheaper than replaceín valve guides but then you donít know how long itíll last.

Sounds like a lot of money either way.

Good, this reinforces my opinion.
Another way to check for blown head gasket is to open the radiator cap while the engine is runín, careful donít do it hot or itíll puke hot antifreeze all over ya, and see if there are any bubbles rising to the top.
When the piston compresses the air fuel mixture it can force air past a crack in the head gasket / cylinder head into a cooling jacket. This is where the bubbles would be comeín from.
But again, I don't think that's what you've got.

I'll check that as well.

Can you recommend a mechanic in the Overland Park area?

stumppy
03-17-2006, 12:16 PM
What about a 2002 Toyota Sienna that has no oil leaks, engine runs smooth, but at start up has a blue-ish white smoke. It doesnt happen every time its started up, usually first thing in the morning or after sitting for some time.
Probably the valve guide seals getting worn. They are the seals that fit tight around the shaft of the valve. They are there to keep oil from dripping down into the cylinders. It's usually such a small amount of oil that gets by them you don't notice it while you're driving. But when the engine is not run over night (or longer) a little oil runs down into the cylinders and burns off right when you start it. If it's not using a noticeable amount of oil and everthing ck's out ok I'd drive it and enjoy it.

I've got a Dodge van with about 320,000 miles on it and the Valve seals have been leaking on it for the last 150,000 miles. Smokes a little in the morning on start up. Other than that it's fine.


Edit: Like Radar Chief said.

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 12:20 PM
Probably the valve guide seals getting worn. They are the seals that fit tight around the shaft of the valve. They are there to keep oil from dripping down into the cylinders. It's usually such a small amount of oil that gets by them you don't notice it while you're driving. But when the engine is not run over night (or longer) a little oil runs down into the cylinders and burns off right when you start it. If it's not using a noticeable amount of oil and everthing ck's out ok I'd drive it and enjoy it.

I've got a Dodge van with about 320,000 miles on it and the Valve seals have been leaking on it for the last 150,000 miles. Smokes a little in the morning on start up. Other than that it's fine.


Edit: Like Radar Chief said.

I'll check the oil levels as well. Thanks for your input. I hate car problems. The blueish-white smoke does not last long but its enough to look like something is not right.

I guess something positive from this...the problem just started about 10 days ago. Maybe we can nip it in the bud.

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 12:26 PM
Probably the valve guide seals getting worn. They are the seals that fit tight around the shaft of the valve. They are there to keep oil from dripping down into the cylinders. It's usually such a small amount of oil that gets by them you don't notice it while you're driving. But when the engine is not run over night (or longer) a little oil runs down into the cylinders and burns off right when you start it. If it's not using a noticeable amount of oil and everthing ck's out ok I'd drive it and enjoy it.

I've got a Dodge van with about 320,000 miles on it and the Valve seals have been leaking on it for the last 150,000 miles. Smokes a little in the morning on start up. Other than that it's fine.


Edit: Like Radar Chief said.

I agree. If your not killín every mosquito in the neighborhood, I wouldnít worry too much Ďbout it.

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 12:27 PM
Can you recommend a mechanic in the Overland Park area?

Sorry, donít know the area. Only people I know in OP are ones Iíve met here.

stumppy
03-17-2006, 12:29 PM
I'll check the oil levels as well. Thanks for your input. I hate car problems. The blueish-white smoke does not last long but its enough to look like something is not right.

If it's like most of the ones I've dealt with you probably won't notice any oil missing to speak of. It takes a very small amount of oil to make quite a bit of smoke.

Skip Towne
03-17-2006, 12:33 PM
Jap car you say? Look for a piece of rice in the carburetor.

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 12:40 PM
Jap car you say? Look for a piece of rice in the carburetor.

Shlimp flied lice?

Inspector
03-17-2006, 01:53 PM
Would you just stop making those sharp turns, dammit??

That would solve your problem.

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 01:54 PM
Shlimp flied lice?

Did you know 80% of all Japanese doctors have Cadirracs? Yea, the other 20% drive Rincolns. ;)

Inspector
03-17-2006, 01:55 PM
Did you know 80% of all Japanese doctors have Cadirracs? Yea, the other 20% drive Rincolns. ;)
ROFL ROFL

I likee.

RedNFeisty
03-17-2006, 02:06 PM
Power stearing fluid low?

Radar Chief
03-17-2006, 02:14 PM
Power stearing fluid low?

Header bearingís outa frequency grease. Check the level at the isosolator site glass. ;)

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 02:28 PM
Header bearingís outa frequency grease. Check the level at the isosolator site glass. ;)

The Flux capacitor is not fluxing.

penguinz
03-17-2006, 02:39 PM
The Flux capacitor is not fluxing.It is still fluxing. I put a fluke on it and it is registering at 1.21 jigawatts.

Bwana
03-17-2006, 02:44 PM
Header bearingís outa frequency grease. Check the level at the isosolator site glass. ;)

If it's a fluid issue, I would have to go with the low blinker fluid theory. :D

journeyscarab
03-17-2006, 02:48 PM
It is still fluxing. I put a fluke on it and it is registering at 1.21 jigawatts.


1.21 jigawatts?!? 1.21 jigawatts?!?

What was I thinking?

Marty, I'm sorry. But the only power source capable of generating 1.21 gigawatts of electricity is a bolt of lightning.

journeyscarab
03-28-2006, 09:07 AM
Youíre burnín oil, thatís what the ďbluish smokeĒ indicates. Now the trick is to find out why.
If it seems to be runín fine otherwise, Iíd rule out cracked head / head gasket since if that were the case youíd be loosing compression and itíd probably misfire on that cylinder(s). If there is no knocking or other indications of worn piston rings goín on, Iíd bet on worn valve guides. Particularly since it only happens after sitín overnight.
The fix means takeín the head(s) off and takeín it (them) to a machine shop for them to press out old guides and press in new ones. If you have to keep this vehicle, you may want to shop for a good salvage head(s) with lower miles on it. Thatíd be cheaper than replaceín valve guides but then you donít know how long itíll last.

***UPDATE***

Well, I guess we were all off. Looks like the previous owner followed the manual when it said to change the oil every 7500 or 6 months. Surprise **Oil sludge built up in the engine.

I took it to the dealership since it was under extended warranty. I explained that I had the car for just two years, changed the oil every 3000 or so and ignored the manual instructions. They took mercy on me and are rebuilding the engine at no cost to me.

I guess this has been a common problem with the Siennas, people are following the recommended oil change proceedures and then are ending up with sludged engines.

When I saw the 7500 mile/ 6 month recommendation I thought it was nuts.

Anyway...things are working out cool and I should have a nice, clean engine soon.

THANKS BE TO GOD!

PastorMikH
03-28-2006, 10:00 AM
***UPDATE***

Well, I guess we were all off. Looks like the previous owner followed the manual when it said to change the oil every 7500 or 6 months. Surprise **Oil sludge built up in the engine.



This is the first I saw of this thread. I read the main post, didn't see the date, and immediately said CV joint. Then I read Journey's update and am thinking what kind of mechanic decides to rebuild the engine when the problem is obviously a CV joint.

Then I noticed he didn't start the thread and also saw the dates of posts.

:)

jspchief
03-28-2006, 10:10 AM
Okay, how about the steering wheel/front tires wobbling when I'm driving? Alignment seems to be off too.

The tires need to be replaced, and are worn funny, but I'm curious if I should expect other repair work at the same time. In other words, are my worn tires the result of my wobble problem, or is my wobble problem simply the result of the worn tires?

PastorMikH
03-28-2006, 10:15 AM
Okay, how about the steering wheel/front tires wobbling when I'm driving? Alignment seems to be off too.

The tires need to be replaced, and are worn funny, but I'm curious if I should expect other repair work at the same time. In other words, are my worn tires the result of my wobble problem, or is my wobble problem simply the result of the worn tires?


An alignment should cost less than a new set of tires. Sounds like you definately need the tires. I wouldn't put tires on though without having the front end aligned - the front end out of alignment is probably what wore your tires funny. The worn tires are probably what causes the wobble in the wheel.

If there is a lot of tread on the tires, try the alignment THEN rotate the front tires to the back and see if that helps.

Brock
03-28-2006, 10:16 AM
Okay, how about the steering wheel/front tires wobbling when I'm driving? Alignment seems to be off too.

The tires need to be replaced, and are worn funny, but I'm curious if I should expect other repair work at the same time. In other words, are my worn tires the result of my wobble problem, or is my wobble problem simply the result of the worn tires?

RWD or FWD?

jspchief
03-28-2006, 10:17 AM
An alignment should cost less than a new set of tires. Sounds like you definately need the tires. I wouldn't put tires on though without having the front end aligned - the front end out of alignment is probably what wore your tires funny. The worn tires are probably what causes the wobble in the wheel.

If there is a lot of tread on the tires, try the alignment THEN rotate the front tires to the back and see if that helps.Yea, the tires need replaced regardless. I was just curious if i should expect a bunch of additional cost when I got them.

jspchief
03-28-2006, 10:18 AM
RWD or FWD?RWD/4WD Suburban.

Brock
03-28-2006, 10:23 AM
RWD/4WD Suburban.

I'm not sure if this is a problem common to all years, but I do know that the 96-99's have a problem with the pitman arm wearing, in which case the alignment will not hold.

I would expect that you will be told you need to replace at least that part.

There are so many variables on tire wear, including the tires themselves, that it's hard to say if anything is actually wrong with the truck.

jspchief
03-28-2006, 10:24 AM
I'm not sure if this is a problem common to all years, but I do know that the 96-99's have a problem with the pitman arm wearing, in which case the alignment will not hold.

I would expect that you will be told you need to replace at least that part.

There are so many variables on tire wear, including the tires themselves, that it's hard to say if anything is actually wrong with the truck.Well, it's a '98, so it would fall into that category.

Any idea what expense is involved with a new Pittman arm?

Brock
03-28-2006, 10:33 AM
Well, it's a '98, so it would fall into that category.

Any idea what expense is involved with a new Pittman arm?

If you stay away from the ripoff shops, it shouldn't cost more than 200-250. That *should* include the cost of the alignment. Just see what they tell you with the truck on the alignment rack.

journeyscarab
03-28-2006, 10:35 AM
If you stay away from the ripoff shops, it shouldn't cost more than 200-250. That *should* include the cost of the alignment. Just see what they tell you with the truck on the alignment rack.

Can list some 'ripoff shops' for us folk in the KC area?

Radar Chief
03-28-2006, 10:52 AM
***UPDATE***

Well, I guess we were all off. Looks like the previous owner followed the manual when it said to change the oil every 7500 or 6 months. Surprise **Oil sludge built up in the engine.

I took it to the dealership since it was under extended warranty. I explained that I had the car for just two years, changed the oil every 3000 or so and ignored the manual instructions. They took mercy on me and are rebuilding the engine at no cost to me.

I guess this has been a common problem with the Siennas, people are following the recommended oil change proceedures and then are ending up with sludged engines.

When I saw the 7500 mile/ 6 month recommendation I thought it was nuts.

Anyway...things are working out cool and I should have a nice, clean engine soon.

THANKS BE TO GOD!

Because of sludge? :spock: Thatís a new one on me, but youíre getín a rebuild motor in warrantee so I certainly wouldn't gripe. :thumb:

Oh, and with the new synthetic oils 7500 mile oil change intervals is fairly normal. Some will even claim 15K miles before oil break down, but I donít know that Iíd go pushín that one. ;) Even if they are, like, $7 a quart. :eek:

Brock
03-28-2006, 11:13 AM
Can list some 'ripoff shops' for us folk in the KC area?

By that I mean places like Sears, Meineke, etc. Pretty much any national chain is something you should stay away from. Small shops are much more fair and honest.

Halfcan
03-28-2006, 11:30 AM
no