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View Full Version : Car troubles...what is the culprit?


|Zach|
08-27-2006, 09:44 PM
Not much of a car guy over here...just trying to get a sense of what is going on with my car.

It starts up just fine but if you are not hitting the accelerator it dies. If you are pressing down on the gas it runs fine and doesn't have any problems but if I get to a stop sign and let it coast...its done for. So I have to turn the key to off...start it again...rev it while in park and then switch to drive and drive fast enough so it doesn't die...needless to say this isn't a safe car to drive.

At first I thought it was a battery problem but someone who knows cars a little better thought it was prob an issue with my alternator or possibly a power fuse?

Thoughts from the gear heads?

Bowser
08-27-2006, 09:46 PM
You have a bad soleinoid(sp?). It's a device that controls the flow of fuel from the tank to your engine after you hit the gas pedal. Had this exact thing happen to one of my cars a few years back. Cost about two hundy to fix.

jspchief
08-27-2006, 09:46 PM
How old of a car?

Sounds like it might just be a computer issue with the idle.

Bwana
08-27-2006, 09:47 PM
alternator, fuel pump, fuel filter?

|Zach|
08-27-2006, 09:48 PM
How old of a car?

Sounds like it might just be a computer issue with the idle.
'01 Ford Explorer Sport. Never really had any problems all the time I had it...since '00.

Chan93lx50
08-27-2006, 09:58 PM
Is your check engine light illuminated?

If not it still would be a good idea to run down to autozone and get the computer codes ran ( Its Free). Even when Check engine light is not on there still can be codes.

It sounds definatly like a sensor issue, either it be the Mass air flow sensor, the Idle positioning sensor or a vacume leak.

Deberg_1990
08-27-2006, 10:00 PM
'01 Ford Explorer Sport. Never really had any problems all the time I had it...since '00.

Its a FORD. Thats your 1st problem.

|Zach|
08-27-2006, 10:02 PM
Its a FORD. Thats your 1st problem.
It has been good to me for 6 years...

jjjayb
08-27-2006, 10:03 PM
Its a FORD. Thats your 1st problem.

You're an idiot. Thats your 1st problem. :p

4th and Long
08-27-2006, 10:04 PM
It has been good to me for 6 years...
I'm betting there's more than 1 person on this board that would say the same thing about their ex-wife. :D

blueballs
08-27-2006, 10:11 PM
had a simular problem found a mouse
nest in the air filter intake

Baconeater
08-27-2006, 10:19 PM
Occasionally one of my vans does that, I just disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. Usually does the trick, sometimes I have to do it a second time though.

PastorMikH
08-27-2006, 10:21 PM
alternator, fuel pump, fuel filter?


I was thinking along the lines of fuel pump or filter.

chief2000
08-27-2006, 10:25 PM
Take it to shitty shady car mechanic.

Everything will be A-OK.

Seriously.....try this. Diagnose tree.

http://www.10w40.com/home/auto_repair_diagnose.asp

Brock
08-27-2006, 10:27 PM
I don't see it being the battery or even electrically related at all. It's a fuel issue.

asdf
08-28-2006, 12:24 AM
Sounds like a classic IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve) problem. It is a solenoid actuated valve, when it gets carboned up the valve sticks. They aren't very expensive and are easy (usually) to replace yourself - probably around $50 for an aftermarket one or $90 from ford. The ford part is typically better. Or you can try to clean it first. That is usually only a temporary solution...
Hope this helps!!

Phobia
08-28-2006, 12:30 AM
I agree with fuel filter but I'm a novice.

Maybe your stalker, JimNasium has sabatoged your vehicle.

Smed1065
08-28-2006, 12:34 AM
I would start with the f filter, if its not in the tank. Second would be a code check. Code check is the easy way to elimanate major items first. IMO.

Florida_Bronco
08-28-2006, 12:35 AM
Could be the IAC, possibly a vaccum leak or a dirty Mass Airflow Sensor.

Have you noticed a drop in fuel economy since this started?

Radar Chief
08-28-2006, 07:37 AM
Sounds like a classic IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve) problem. It is a solenoid actuated valve, when it gets carboned up the valve sticks. They aren't very expensive and are easy (usually) to replace yourself - probably around $50 for an aftermarket one or $90 from ford. The ford part is typically better. Or you can try to clean it first. That is usually only a temporary solution...
Hope this helps!!

This would get my vote.
What the deal is, when you press and release the accelerator youíre opening and closing a butterfly valve in the throttle body. When that butterfly valve is closed there has to be some way to get air to the engine or it wonít idle. Thatís what the Idle Air Control Valve is doing, bypassing the throttle body butterfly valve to supply air.
The only other thing I could think of is itís been hot and Iíd assume youíre running the air conditioner. I donít know how Ford does it, but there has to be some way of kicking the idle up in order to run the a/c at an idle. You can check for this simpley by turning the a/c off and see if itíll idle then.

Skip Towne
08-28-2006, 07:43 AM
It won't idle? Must be the idler arm.

boogblaster
08-28-2006, 09:08 AM
Could be a sencer..fuel filter..pump..clogged injecter or the comp.. but one time my 91 ford did something similar it was the ingintion mod.on the back of the distribuer...BOOG...

Hog Farmer
08-28-2006, 09:22 AM
You should follow this checklist to nail down the problem:

1) Check tire pressure. If any tire is low (below 110 pounds) you must change the air in all the tires. And don't forget the spare.

2) Check for sugar in the gas. This can be done by siphoning gas from the tank in to a coffee cup. Take a small drink, if it is sweet tasting then someone has sugared your gas and you will have to replace the engine.

3) Check for mice in your air filter. Shove four or five bait packs down the breather inlet to eliminate any chance of mice living in there.

4)Check the oil. If your dipstick has oil on it then you have overfilled your oil resevoir. Drain all the oil from the engine and replace with no more than half a quart. Top it off with a teaspoon of baby oil, to make it really slippery. Those pistons will thank you for it.

5) Lastly if all else failed then it must be a bad fuse. Remove all the fuses from the fuse box and replace them with 16 penney nails that are cut to the same lenght as the fuses. They will never go bad.

There are more suggestions at www. I'mandIdiot.com

Brock
08-28-2006, 09:24 AM
I hope you didn't spend a lot of time on that comedic brilliance.

Saulbadguy
08-28-2006, 09:27 AM
I had to replace the IAC in my Ford Probe, back in the day. I had the same issue you were having, Zach. IIRC, it was around $70 total to replace it. (Labor included)

KUalum
08-28-2006, 10:24 AM
When was the last time you checked or replaced the spark plugs?
Check them all, if you haven't already.

Dartgod
08-28-2006, 10:27 AM
Dies at stop signs? Won't keep running unless you keep pressing on the accelerator pedal?

It sounds like a bad idler arm to me.

stumppy
08-28-2006, 10:55 AM
The thing that makes me think it might be something other than an IAC is that (from the info provided) it just seems to die when you let off of the accelerator. That and there's no mention of the check engine light, which SHOULD come on if the IAC were bad.
The first and simplest thing I would check is the throttle body. Which would not throw a code and cause the ck eng. light to come on. It could be dirty all around the throt. body blade.
When you let off of the accel. the t-body blade closes ALMOST all the way. It stays cracked open just a hair to let enough air in the intake so the engine will idle. Over time they will get dirty all around the edges.
When you let off the accel.(as opposed to just letting it idle) it chokes the air flow off and causes the engine to die.
All you have to do is remove the big black tube running up to the t-body. Crack open the t-body blade. Spray some carb. cleaner in there and clean it all out with a toothbrush. Should take less than 15 minutes start to finish.
If thats not the problem it could be any number of things.

Dartgod
08-28-2006, 10:58 AM
It won't idle? Must be the idler arm.
Dies at stop signs? Won't keep running unless you keep pressing on the accelerator pedal?

It sounds like a bad idler arm to me.
:cuss:

Beaten to the punchline by Skip... :shake:

Crashride
08-28-2006, 11:53 AM
Negative! Start with the cheapest parts first. My jeep did the same thing and I know exactly what your talking about. Change the basics the batter and the alternator. If the alternator keeps the battery charged while your driving and if that is broken the car will die. The only reason it stays alive when you hit the gas is because it is forcing the car to stay alive. If those dont work THEN go out to an autozone or something. Dont waste money on an expensive as mechanic to change the idle arms and all that.

Dartgod
08-28-2006, 11:58 AM
Negative! Start with the cheapest parts first. My jeep did the same thing and I know exactly what your talking about. Change the basics the batter and the alternator. If the alternator keeps the battery charged while your driving and if that is broken the car will die. The only reason it stays alive when you hit the gas is because it is forcing the car to stay alive. If those dont work THEN go out to an autozone or something. Dont waste money on an expensive as mechanic to change the idle arms and all that.
ROFL

Lzen
08-28-2006, 12:36 PM
Wow, there's some real brilliance on this thread.

Brock
08-28-2006, 12:50 PM
Negative! Start with the cheapest parts first. My jeep did the same thing and I know exactly what your talking about. Change the basics the batter and the alternator. If the alternator keeps the battery charged while your driving and if that is broken the car will die. The only reason it stays alive when you hit the gas is because it is forcing the car to stay alive. If those dont work THEN go out to an autozone or something. Dont waste money on an expensive as mechanic to change the idle arms and all that.

Lordy. :shake:

Bwana
08-28-2006, 07:15 PM
This just seems like a good place to post this: :D

What's a 710?
Yesterday I was having some work done at the car dealer. A blonde woman came in and asked for a seven-hundred-ten.

They all looked at each other, and one of the mechanics asked, "What is a seven-hundred-ten?"


She replied, "You know, the little piece in the middle of the engine. I lost it and need a new one. It had always been there."

The mechanic gave the woman a piece of paper and a pen and asked her to draw what the piece looked like.

She drew a circle and in the middle of it wrote 710. He then took her over to another car which had the hood up and asked, "Is there a 710 on this car?"

She pointed and said, "Of course, it's right there."

Click here to learn the identity of the mysterious 710:

http://mademelaugh.com/gfx/710.jpg (http://mademelaugh.com/gfx/710.jpg)

dtebbe
08-28-2006, 07:34 PM
The thing that makes me think it might be something other than an IAC is that (from the info provided) it just seems to die when you let off of the accelerator. That and there's no mention of the check engine light, which SHOULD come on if the IAC were bad.

Not true with Fords, Mustangs have the IAC get gummed up and stick, which does not set a code.

The first and simplest thing I would check is the throttle body. Which would not throw a code and cause the ck eng. light to come on. It could be dirty all around the throt. body blade.
When you let off of the accel. the t-body blade closes ALMOST all the way. It stays cracked open just a hair to let enough air in the intake so the engine will idle. Over time they will get dirty all around the edges.
When you let off the accel.(as opposed to just letting it idle) it chokes the air flow off and causes the engine to die.
All you have to do is remove the big black tube running up to the t-body. Crack open the t-body blade. Spray some carb. cleaner in there and clean it all out with a toothbrush. Should take less than 15 minutes start to finish.
If thats not the problem it could be any number of things.

I agree the best thing to do is to remove the throttle body and IAC and clean them both very well with carb cleaner. That's probably going to do it. If not, the IAC is probably bad.

DT