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macdawg
04-09-2009, 11:56 PM
Hey guys I'm starting to try and teach myself a little bit about car maintenance in order to take good car of my cars and hopefully save a little money taking care of them.

Oil changes are the first thing that comes to mind, doesn't advanced auto and autozone and oreillys sell do it yourself kits with 5 qts oil and an oil filter for like 12.99 or something? Where do you buy your oil and filters and how much do you spend?

Do you do any other maintenance?

I was told to get strips that test your brake fluid to let you know if your due for a brake flush, and to use a fuel system cleaner every 10-15,000 miles, preferably the 3 step fuel system cleaners that also hook up to the throttle body and not just pouring the cleaner into the tank.

Get car aligned every 6-12 months is something I've been told to do but honestly I don't.

I have a taurus getting close to 100k and an 08 altima that we drive a lot, has 42k on it and I don't remember doing anything to it besides oil changes......

Any of you have any good guidelines for car maintenance or tips on how to learn to do it yourself?

BWillie
04-10-2009, 01:19 AM
Park your POS off of prospect with the spare set of keys in the ignition. That should do it

2bikemike
04-10-2009, 02:42 AM
I do oil changes every 5000 miles religously. Todays oils are pretty good anything more and IMHO your throwing money away. Most manufacturers recommend between 3000 and 7500 depending on your type of driving. I don't worry much about brake fluid. I have never done anything with that as far as flushes go. I do get my radiator flushed every 25,000 miles by a radiator shop that I trust. It might not be necessary but I like to keep my cooling system top notch. As far as injector cleaners a good friend of mine owns a repair shop and doesn't think its real beneficial. He says todays gas has lots of detergents and keeps every thing pretty clean. So I forgo all the injector cleaning. A lot of folks claim you shouldn't have your transmission flushed because it will lead to problems. I do have mine flushed about every 40,000 to 50,000. I started doing the flushes after a Chevy truck I owned failed at 58,000.

Probably from a shade tree mechanic perspective you should do oil and filter change. Air filter inspections and changes. The Transmission and radiators are better left to professionals who have the proper equipment to truly flush the systems and dispose of the waste. Its not that you can't do it the pain in the ass factor just becomes too great.

Coach
04-10-2009, 05:02 AM
Pretty easy to change a oil filter. Just need to make sure you got the correct filter, a correct set of oil, a oil wrench, and a drip pan, and you're on your way.

notorious
04-10-2009, 08:14 AM
Always remeber to put the pan drain plug back in. The local COOP in the town I grew up was notorious for leaving it out. I don't know how they miss it especially when there is 5 quarts of oil on the ground.........

penguinz
04-10-2009, 08:19 AM
Pretty easy to change a oil filter. Just need to make sure you got the correct filter, a correct set of oil, a oil wrench, and a drip pan, and you're on your way.
To add to this... Do not use FRAM filters. They are crap. Use Wix or the high end NAPA branded (these are wix).

Deberg_1990
04-10-2009, 08:22 AM
Any of you have any good guidelines for car maintenance or tips on how to learn to do it yourself?

Follow your manufacturers car manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Every car is different.

notorious
04-10-2009, 08:31 AM
To add to this... Do not use FRAM filters. They are crap. Use Wix or the high end NAPA branded (these are wix).

Oh S*^&. I have been using them for years. I don't know the details about oil filtration, so please explain why they are junk. They might get changed tomorrow.

Buehler445
04-10-2009, 08:41 AM
Oil is the easiest to do.

When you're in there, do some checking though.
Check transmission fluid. Look at the color of it as well as the levels. If it looks grimey, it may be time for a flush (I'd recommend you leave that to professionals).

If you have disc brakes take a look at them and the rotor. If the squeaker bar is getting close to the rotor, it may be time to get some new ones.

Look for oil leaks.

Look at the belt.

Check the air filter. I replace mine WAY more often than I should, you probably just need to make sure it is clean.

Check the coolant. Look for leaks.

Check brake fluid levels. This is the best way to tell if you need new brakes ( as long as there are no leaks). As the pads wear down, the brakes have to push the pads a longer distance, meaning there is less brake fluid in the resivoir, more in the system.

Look at your plug wires, make sure the harnesses look good and the wires look OK.

Make sure the ignition panel is pretty clean.

Check the power steering fluid.

Other stuff you can do at home is:
Rotate tires
Replace light bulbs
Replace the belt, if necessary
Depending on how accessible some of the stuff is, you can replace some of the simpler stuff that goes bad: starter, alternator, power steering pump, etc.

Your manual was written to ensure that if you followed the instructions, wear would be minimized on the vehicle. Cars can, and most of the time, do go longer than the manual says for maintinence, but "its not recommended."
Posted via Mobile Device

Iowanian
04-10-2009, 08:43 AM
I try to change oil every 3500 miles.
Change air filters every 4-5 oil changes(I drive on gravel in the country quite a bit).
Check fluids
run quality injector cleaner every 3rd tank of fuel

When cars get up there in miles(like my work travel ride) Once in a while, run some oil treatment with a change.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 08:45 AM
I do oil changes every 5000 miles religously. Todays oils are pretty good anything more and IMHO your throwing money away. Most manufacturers recommend between 3000 and 7500 depending on your type of driving. I don't worry much about brake fluid. I have never done anything with that as far as flushes go. I do get my radiator flushed every 25,000 miles by a radiator shop that I trust. It might not be necessary but I like to keep my cooling system top notch. As far as injector cleaners a good friend of mine owns a repair shop and doesn't think its real beneficial. He says todays gas has lots of detergents and keeps every thing pretty clean. So I forgo all the injector cleaning. A lot of folks claim you shouldn't have your transmission flushed because it will lead to problems. I do have mine flushed about every 40,000 to 50,000. I started doing the flushes after a Chevy truck I owned failed at 58,000.

Probably from a shade tree mechanic perspective you should do oil and filter change. Air filter inspections and changes. The Transmission and radiators are better left to professionals who have the proper equipment to truly flush the systems and dispose of the waste. Its not that you can't do it the pain in the ass factor just becomes too great.


That is an absolutely terrible myth, this coming from a guy who works at a transmission shop. Each vehicle is different in it's system, we service the transmission, meaning we drop the pan, replace the filter and pan gasket and fill it up with fluid. Some vehicles are a drain and refill only, meaning the only time you change the filter is when you have the transmission out and disassembled, due to the filter being an internal part. It's recommended to change your fluid every 20-30k miles (on automatics). I always prefer a service to a flush, unless the flush includes changing the transmission filter. A flush gets more fluid out, but at the same time you have the same filter, and any debris in that filter is going to stay in the transmission. I like to be able to see if there is any debris on the magnet, and I like knowing that I have a new filter in my vehicles. I personally change my transmission fluid once a year. If anybody ever has any transmission questions, feel free to ask me, I will answer anything I am able to.

To answer the thread topic, I do everything on my vehicle, due to the fact I have any tool I will need, and my father lets me work after hours and use the facility.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 08:48 AM
To add to this... Do not use FRAM filters. They are crap. Use Wix or the high end NAPA branded (these are wix).

That's a myth IMO, I have used every filter out there, and FRAM is a good filter. I have used them for years and never ONCE had a problem. If you change your oil and filter when you should, you should be fine, outside of a part failure of course.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 08:50 AM
Follow your manufacturers car manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Every car is different.

Best advice for any car n00b.

rockymtnchief
04-10-2009, 08:51 AM
To avoid getting pulled over, change your blinker fluid every 50k miles. It's tough to find in stores, so keep looking. I have my sister trying to find me some at this moment.

chiefforlife
04-10-2009, 08:52 AM
You should let a qualified repair shop do it for you. Many times I have seen people cost themselves a LOT of money trying to save a little.
The shop can put you on a maintenance schedule with service reminders. We Email our customers when they are due.

notorious
04-10-2009, 08:53 AM
That's a myth IMO, I have used every filter out there, and FRAM is a good filter. I have used them for years and never ONCE had a problem. If you change your oil and filter when you should, you should be fine, outside of a part failure of course.

I have used them for years on many different vehicles without a problem. My work Pickup is 250k +, work Suburban is 220k+, work Van is 120k+, along with my other newer non-work vehicles.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 08:57 AM
To avoid getting pulled over, change your blinker fluid every 50k miles. It's tough to find in stores, so keep looking. I have my sister trying to find me some at this moment.

Yep. We also change a lot of muffler bearings, expensive Rascals but a must do.

rockymtnchief
04-10-2009, 09:07 AM
Yep. We also change a lot of muffler bearings, expensive Rascals but a must do.

Is that something a "do-it-yerselfer" can do? I have a pipe-stretcher and a set of left-handed sockets.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 09:18 AM
You should let a qualified repair shop do it for you. Many times I have seen people cost themselves a LOT of money trying to save a little.
The shop can put you on a maintenance schedule with service reminders. We Email our customers when they are due.

Funny story. We had a customer who we repaired his transmission, it was a 2001 Subaru Forrester, and we repaired it a couple years ago. Well he had the vehicle towed in, and the differential was locked up. Well the differential had no fluid in it. What had happened is he drained the differential, and filled the transmission instead of the diff, so the diff has absolutely no fluid in it. He didn't realize what he did, before it was too late. There are quite a few vehicles who have seperate fills for the differential and to people who don't know this, it can be a very expensive learning experience. He was trying to save himself some money, and ended up spending about $2200.00

See we do a lot of work for a FasLube and Jiffy Lube, and Wal-Mart, they have a lot of inexperienced techs who make some ridiculously dumb mistakes, but if they mess it up they will fix it. If you don't know what you are doing, it's best to let someone who does take care of it. Now if you want to have someone show you how, then do it after you know how to do it, then go ahead. I recommend to get a local shop who does general work, and let them take care of your general needs. Then let a transmission shop take care of any transmission problems. Best to cut out the Quick Lube places IMO.

El Jefe
04-10-2009, 09:18 AM
Is that something a "do-it-yerselfer" can do? I have a pipe-stretcher and a set of left-handed sockets.

LMAO.

penguinz
04-10-2009, 09:19 AM
Oh S*^&. I have been using them for years. I don't know the details about oil filtration, so please explain why they are junk. They might get changed tomorrow.- Weak anti drain valve. More like none existance anti drain valve causing your engine to do dry starts after a period of not driving.
- Rubber gasket tend to slide off causing the filter to get loose and blow off
- Less filter element or pleats.
- irregular pleats

Brock
04-10-2009, 09:19 AM
I pretty much do everything myself except change oil. It's a dirty job and you have to deal with the used oil.

HemiEd
04-10-2009, 09:21 AM
Oh S*^&. I have been using them for years. I don't know the details about oil filtration, so please explain why they are junk. They might get changed tomorrow.
I sold filters for about 8 years, and competed with Fram. If you cut a Fram apart, it looks like crap, cardboard ends etc. A Wix or any premium filter, like a Hastings, is beautiful on the inside. Metal ends, perfect spacing on the pleats, etc.

BUT-when tested, for actual micron filtering, they are almost identical. I am absolutely anal about changing oil, and use Fram filters.

notorious
04-10-2009, 09:33 AM
- Weak anti drain valve. More like none existance anti drain valve causing your engine to do dry starts after a period of not driving.
- Rubber gasket tend to slide off causing the filter to get loose and blow off
- Less filter element or pleats.
- irregular pleats

I sold filters for about 8 years, and competed with Fram. If you cut a Fram apart, it looks like crap, cardboard ends etc. A Wix or any premium filter, like a Hastings, is beautiful on the inside. Metal ends, perfect spacing on the pleats, etc.

BUT-when tested, for actual micron filtering, they are almost identical. I am absolutely anal about changing oil, and use Fram filters.

Thanks for the info gentlemen.

shitgoose
04-10-2009, 10:01 AM
If you plan on doing your own oil/filter changes make sure that when you unscrew the filter that the rubber seal from the old filter is still intact on the filter instead of stuck on the block. If it sticks to the block and you put the next filter on you wont get a proper seal and when you start the car it will spew oil everywhere and you will lose oil pressure. I like to clean off the area where the filter seals to the block every time I change the filter just to make sure its clean and unobstructed.

This happened to me when I was changing the oil on my ex-girlfriends car several years ago. I think the car was a Nissan or something but you couldn't really see the filter and it was a bitch to get to. Whoever put the previous filter on put it on way too tight or it had been on there for 20,000 miles and it was a god damn mess to clean up.

As far the the used oil is concerned I just take it back to O'Reilly's or any other auto parts store and they will dispose of it for you for free.

macdawg
04-10-2009, 07:48 PM
Follow your manufacturers car manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Every car is different.

find it kind of vague, for instance it just says check coolant at certain miles but never tells you when to do a coolant flush.

no where does it mention how often to get the car aligned either.

Bugeater
04-10-2009, 07:53 PM
find it kind of vague, for instance it just says check coolant at certain miles but never tells you when to do a coolant flush.

no where does it mention how often to get the car aligned either.
Alignment is a need-specific repair, it's not considered routine maintenance. As long as your car doesn't pull to the left or right when you take your hands off the wheel you don't need it.

JASONSAUTO
04-10-2009, 08:08 PM
That is an absolutely terrible myth, this coming from a guy who works at a transmission shop. Each vehicle is different in it's system, we service the transmission, meaning we drop the pan, replace the filter and pan gasket and fill it up with fluid. Some vehicles are a drain and refill only, meaning the only time you change the filter is when you have the transmission out and disassembled, due to the filter being an internal part. It's recommended to change your fluid every 20-30k miles (on automatics). I always prefer a service to a flush, unless the flush includes changing the transmission filter. A flush gets more fluid out, but at the same time you have the same filter, and any debris in that filter is going to stay in the transmission. I like to be able to see if there is any debris on the magnet, and I like knowing that I have a new filter in my vehicles. I personally change my transmission fluid once a year. If anybody ever has any transmission questions, feel free to ask me, I will answer anything I am able to.
To answer the thread topic, I do everything on my vehicle, due to the fact I have any tool I will need, and my father lets me work after hours and use the facility.

this is right IMO, the scheduled maintenance calls for a trans service at certain mileage

JASONSAUTO
04-10-2009, 08:12 PM
Alignment is a need-specific repair, it's not considered routine maintenance. As long as your car doesn't pull to the left or right when you take your hands off the wheel you don't need it.

wrong IMO, and i do alignments EVERYDAY, on many the wheel is straight and no pulls yet the tires wear and the toe/camber is off. could be due to the springs settling. ANY change in ride height WILL change the alignment. i would have one done at least once a year. or if you notice ANY abnormal wear on your tires. a reputable shop will only charge you for an alignment check if adjustments arent needed. the money spent is worth it if you save your tires IMO

JASONSAUTO
04-10-2009, 08:14 PM
. Best to cut out the Quick Lube places IMO.

THIS they try to upsell also. WAY too much

Bugeater
04-10-2009, 08:23 PM
THIS they try to upsell also. WAY too much
God, tell me about it, that shit drives me nuts. I stopped going to them for that very reason.

Fish
04-10-2009, 08:26 PM
I pretty much do everything myself except change oil. It's a dirty job and you have to deal with the used oil.

As far as the used oil goes, just buy a $5 plastic oil pan with a lid. And when you fill it up, take it to Jiffy Lube or some other retail oil change place. They'll let you dispose of it there for free. I've done this for years.

2bikemike
04-10-2009, 08:53 PM
That is an absolutely terrible myth, this coming from a guy who works at a transmission shop. Each vehicle is different in it's system, we service the transmission, meaning we drop the pan, replace the filter and pan gasket and fill it up with fluid. Some vehicles are a drain and refill only, meaning the only time you change the filter is when you have the transmission out and disassembled, due to the filter being an internal part. It's recommended to change your fluid every 20-30k miles (on automatics). I always prefer a service to a flush, unless the flush includes changing the transmission filter. A flush gets more fluid out, but at the same time you have the same filter, and any debris in that filter is going to stay in the transmission. I like to be able to see if there is any debris on the magnet, and I like knowing that I have a new filter in my vehicles. I personally change my transmission fluid once a year. If anybody ever has any transmission questions, feel free to ask me, I will answer anything I am able to.

To answer the thread topic, I do everything on my vehicle, due to the fact I have any tool I will need, and my father lets me work after hours and use the facility.

Good to know. Transmissions today are freaking expensive to replace or repair. I will keep doing the flushes if they are changing the filter. I want the filter replaced otherwise you just run clean fluid through a dirty filter.

StcChief
04-10-2009, 08:59 PM
If your doing engine oil, go sythentic, no money to Arabs, Mobil one extra 15K between changes, spend extra for a real good filter. Amsoil etc.

Bwana
04-10-2009, 09:53 PM
That's a myth IMO, I have used every filter out there, and FRAM is a good filter. I have used them for years and never ONCE had a problem. If you change your oil and filter when you should, you should be fine, outside of a part failure of course.

No it is not. Cut the two of them in half and you will see why.

Bwana
04-10-2009, 09:58 PM
If your doing engine oil, go sythentic, no money to Arabs, Mobil one extra 15K between changes, spend extra for a real good filter. Amsoil etc.

Mobil One came out with a filter last year. They weigh about twice as much as most other filters, expensive as well. I guess they are damn good filters though.

jjchieffan
04-10-2009, 10:07 PM
I used to always do my own oil changes. I always used wix filters and Castrol oil. When oil prices went up, that was costing around $18. Then the local Chrysler dealer started charging $17.99. They change my oil now.

Fish
04-10-2009, 10:50 PM
Fram sucks hard.

Filters To Avoid

The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard (http://people.msoe.edu/%7Eyoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a)

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard (http://people.msoe.edu/%7Eyoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-dg8a)

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.


http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html

StcChief
04-10-2009, 10:56 PM
Mobil One came out with a filter last year. They weigh about twice as much as most other filters, expensive as well. I guess they are damn good filters though.To me it's about the convenience
and the fact Synthetic IMO is better lube.... you tell me your in that industry.

Sure a better filter is $10 + but if it's once a year who cares.

2bikemike
04-11-2009, 12:18 AM
If your doing engine oil, go sythentic, no money to Arabs, Mobil one extra 15K between changes, spend extra for a real good filter. Amsoil etc.

JMHO but the thing about that is the oil won't break down but it still gets dirty. Dirty oil means wear and tear. I don't care how good of filter you have 15,000 miles is a lot of miles to accumulate dirt.

DaneMcCloud
04-11-2009, 12:39 AM
I just take the Lexus in when it tells me.

penguinz
04-11-2009, 05:37 AM
Mobil One came out with a filter last year. They weigh about twice as much as most other filters, expensive as well. I guess they are damn good filters though.
It is a wix filter. ;)

Stewie
04-11-2009, 05:57 AM
I use whatever oil filter is on sale. It's becoming apparent that oil filtration doesn't need to be what it used to be. Today's oil itself traps/suspends an incredible amount of contaminants rendering them harmless. I've changed oil in my cars for years and years and the one thing I've noticed is that filters are becoming really small. The old Dodge I had in the early '80s (slant 6) had a filter 3 to 4 times the size of the filter on the 2007 Toyota I drive now. The first time I bought a filter for this car I was amazed, it's about the size of a soda can cut in half.

Buehler445
04-11-2009, 06:50 AM
I just take the Lexus in when it tells me.

My Pontiac has an oil life monitor too.

JASONSAUTO
04-11-2009, 08:10 AM
JMHO but the thing about that is the oil won't break down but it still gets dirty. Dirty oil means wear and tear. I don't care how good of filter you have 15,000 miles is a lot of miles to accumulate dirt.

yeah

acesn8s
04-11-2009, 08:24 AM
I change the muffler bearings everytime it gets nice. It's good for a 3-4 hour job.

eazyb81
04-11-2009, 08:52 AM
THIS they try to upsell also. WAY too much

It seems like almost every auto shop does this. Probably the main reason why regular people don't really trust mechanics.

JASONSAUTO
04-11-2009, 09:25 AM
It seems like almost every auto shop does this. Probably the main reason why regular people don't really trust mechanics.

hey we look them over while doing a LOF and most people are HAPPY we find they need brakes or front end parts. we NEVER sell fuel treatments intake cleaners, stuff like that. we NEVER push that kind of stuff. if someone asks yeah we'll do it. the MAIN difference between us and them is the fact is if you doubt me i will SHOW you why i'm saying something is wrong. i had as car dealer when i first went in business doubt me on some work he "supposedly" had already had done. i told him to get in his truck and come on over(same thing applies to ANY customer i have, hell i dont mind people standing there and watching me do ANYTHING to their car, i have nothing to hide) when he arrived he was very upset about getting ripped off by someone else. needless to say he and i have a VERY good relationship, actually he has most dealers in town bring their stuff to me and recommends my shop to all his customers(pretty good for business)

Bwana
04-11-2009, 11:02 AM
To me it's about the convenience
and the fact Synthetic IMO is better lube.... you tell me your in that industry.

Sure a better filter is $10 + but if it's once a year who cares.

I don't use a full synthetic, I go with a with a part syn myself. And I would never (as others have stated) drive 15K on any kind of oil. As it's been pointed out, the oil may still have great lube at 15K, but it's likely going to get very dirty with that many miles. Dirty oil is what's going to kill a persons engine. As far as filters, I use NAPA gold, which is a wix. Wix makes one hell of a filter. You couldn't give me a Fram. You will save a few bucks on a Fram, but they are a POS. I would rather spend and extra $40 for filters over the lifetime of a car, than buy an engine. To me, that's easy math. I also use a "Filtermag's" on all my filters including my 800 Polaris ATV. These will suck up any metal that is floating around in the system. You just pop the filtermag off the filter when doing an oil change and hang it back on the new filter after you screw it on. Check out this link. http://www.shopfiltermag.com/

JASONSAUTO
04-11-2009, 11:27 AM
I don't use a full synthetic, I go with a with a part syn myself. And I would never (as others have stated) drive 15K on any kind of oil. As it's been pointed out, the oil may still have great lube at 15K, but it's likely going to get very dirty with that many miles. Dirty oil is what's going to kill a persons engine. As far as filters, I use NAPA gold, which is a wix. Wix makes one hell of a filter. You couldn't give me a Fram. You will save a few bucks on a Fram, but they are a POS. I would rather spend and extra $40 for filters over the lifetime of a car, than buy an engine. To me, that's easy math. I also use a "Filtermag's" on all my filters including my 800 Polaris ATV. These will suck up any metal that is floating around in the system. You just pop the filtermag off the filter when doing an oil change and hang it back on the new filter after you screw it on. Check out this link. http://www.shopfiltermag.com/

this bwana bringin it:D i had a guy with a dodge cummins tell me the other day he goes 20,000 with a 10,000 mile filter change. ON A DIESEL i damn near laughed him out of the shop, i actually declined to change his filter for him. silly IMO, no i take that back, ignorant.

Bwana
04-11-2009, 12:06 PM
this bwana bringin it:D i had a guy with a dodge cummins tell me the other day he goes 20,000 with a 10,000 mile filter change. ON A DIESEL i damn near laughed him out of the shop, i actually declined to change his filter for him. silly IMO, no i take that back, ignorant.

20K without a change? That is one stupid son of a bitch. If he keeps that up, he is going to have one heck of a bill for a new engine and it's not like a DIESEL engine is a giveaway item. BTW: Between the last post and this one, I changed my oil in my V-10 Super duty. ;) Only 2K miles between that last oil change and today, but I don't drive it much and when I do, it goes on dirt roads, or is pulling my toys around.