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orange
08-26-2009, 11:59 PM
In Praise of the All-American Mexican Hot Dog

By JOHN T. EDGE
Published: August 25, 2009
Tucson

http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2009/08/25/dining/26united_650a.jpg
A Sonoran hot dog prepared by Oop's Hot Dogs in Tuscon. The hot dogs are wrapped in bacon, grilled, then served with toppings like beans, guacamole and mayonnaise.



“THE problem with American hot dogs is that they’re American,” said Tania Murillo, standing beneath a pink and blue bunny-shaped piñata, as she rang up an order of tortillas at Alejandro’s Tortilla Factory.

“A ketchup-and-mustard hot dog is boring,” continued Ms. Murillo, a high school senior. “They’re not colorful enough. You’ve got to make them colorful, and pile on the stuff. The best hot dogs come from Sonora,” the Mexican state immediately to the south. “Everybody knows that.”

In Tucson more than 100 vendors, known as hotdogueros, peddle Sonoran-style hot dogs — candy cane-wrapped in bacon, griddled until dog and bacon fuse, garnished with a kitchen sink of taco truck condiments and stuffed into split-top rolls that owe a debt to both Mexican bolillo loaves and grocery store hot dog buns.

Many, like Ruiz Hot-Dogs on Sixth Avenue, work step-side carts with two-item menus of Sonoran hot dogs and soft drinks. Set in dirt and gravel parking lots, beneath makeshift shelters, under mesquite tree arbors, these peripatetic vendors serve fast food for day laborers, craftsmen and policemen, the typical patrons of traditional hot dog stands in any town.

Other champions of the Sonoran style, like El Güero Canelo, with two Tucson outlets, have evolved from carts into full-scale restaurants. (At the Twelfth Avenue location, two of the three spaces where burritos, tacos and hot dogs are cooked and assembled remain on wheels, but the prospect of mobility is now far-fetched.)

One Sunday afternoon, as a mariachi band played, an after-church crowd, half Anglo and half Hispanic, thronged El Güero’s outdoor dining pavilion. Babies cried. Teenagers table-hopped. And parents argued that, rather than order a second hot dog, children should fill up at the salsa bar at the back of the pavilion, stocked with peeled cucumbers, sliced radishes and chunky guacamole. Front and center on every third table was a Sonoran hot dog.

For at least the last 40 years, likely longer, borderland vendors, in Tucson and elsewhere, have been refashioning the hot dog with a cloak of bacon, a clump of beans and a chop of tomatoes and onions, followed by squirts of mayonnaise, mustard and salsa verde. (Ketchup and other condiments show up, too. More recently, some vendors have begun offering a topping of crumbled potato chips.)

In a dozen or more cities across the United States, these Mexican takes on the American hot dog are ascendant — from Chicago to Denver to Los Angeles, where illegal street vendors selling so-called danger dogs to late-night crowds play hide-and-seek with the local health department.

Only in Tucson, however, do locals like Ms. Murillo cede hot dog provenance to Mexico. In Tucson, bacon-wrapped, Mexican-dressed hot dogs are not ascendant. They’re dominant.

A Mexican-American take on the hot dog aesthetic was relatively late to arrive. In 1940s Arizona, tamales were known, at least among speakers of colloquial English, as Mexican hot dogs. By the 1950s, true tamales were gaining mainstream status stateside, and American hot dogs had, more than likely, jumped the gate into Sonora and Baja and elsewhere.

The date at which bacon-wrapped hot dogs became known as Mexican hot dogs is unclear. The mystery deepens when you factor in that Sonora, one of the states most often cited as ground zero for bacon-wrapped hot dogs, is a locus for cattle ranching, not pig farming.

From the southern side of the border, numerous Mexico City origin tales emanate, some tied to feeding crowds at wrestling matches in the 1950s, others to feeding skyscraper construction workers during the same decade. (Daniel Contreras, owner of El Güero Canelo, cites a similar time frame, and tells just as plausible a story, but sets the action in his home state of Sonora, where a man he knew as Don Pancho worked the streets.)

As is the case with most folk dishes, its true crucible may never be pinpointed, but folkloric suppositions aside, the answer may be a simple matter of salesmanship:

By 1953, Oscar Mayer was running print ads, selling American consumers on the virtues of bacon-wrapped hot dogs. Perhaps Mexican consumers, inspired to emulate American dietary habits, took Oscar Mayer at its word, wrapping American-made hot dogs in American-made bacon, and claiming the resulting construction as their own.

One recent afternoon, at one of the two Oop’s hot dog stands he operates on Tucson’s south side, Martin Lizarraga sat beneath a tent-draped ramada anchored on one end by a flattop-equipped hot dog cart, and on the other end by a minivan painted with a hip hop-inspired, anthropomorphic hot dog character.

As a tripod-mounted speaker blared norteño music into the street, and toritos — mozzarella-stuffed, bacon-wrapped güerito chiles — browned and then blistered on the flattop, Mr. Lizarraga talked of the days when he worked as a liquor salesman in the Sonoran capital city of Hermosillo, frequenting the “table dancing club” for which he named his two hot dog stands.

With his 14-year-old daughter, Abigail Lizarraga, by his side, he spoke, with great enthusiasm, of Hermosillo, where “every corner has a hot dog stand” and “the health department is not so strict,” and vendors have the freedom to garnish a dog with everything from cucumbers in sour cream to crumbled chorizo.

Pressed to define the Sonoran hot dog, as served in Tucson, Mr. Lizarraga talked of the importance of the roll into which the dog is stuffed. (He buys his from Alejandro’s, where they bake a roll that is both soft and pleasantly pliant.) And he talked of the squeeze bottles of guacamole purée, with which he stocks both carts.

But Mr. Lizarraga did not mention the wrap of bacon, for that, in the world of the hotdoguero, is understood.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/26/dining/26unit.html

DaneMcCloud
08-27-2009, 12:00 AM
Speaking from experience, those types of hot dogs fucking rule

salame
08-27-2009, 12:03 AM
need one now

MoreLemonPledge
08-27-2009, 12:06 AM
The hot dogs are wrapped in bacon

All I need to know.

Raised On Riots
08-27-2009, 12:13 AM
Speaking from experience, those types of hot dogs fucking rule

I'm tellin' you; any bacon-wrapped Mexican grub is worth the price of admission.

Cuisine-wise, that's the one fucking thing I love about living out here; you WILL NOT find better Mexican food.

No way, no how.

DaneMcCloud
08-27-2009, 12:14 AM
I'm tellin' you; any bacon-wrapped Mexican grub is worth the price of admission.

Cuisine-wise, that's the one fucking thing I love about living out here; you WILL NOT find better Mexican food.

No way, no how.

Uh, how about in Mexico?

:p

Raised On Riots
08-27-2009, 12:16 AM
Uh, how about in Mexico?

:p

I loves me some US health code as meager as it may be sometimes. :D

Fairplay
08-27-2009, 12:17 AM
Mexico is getting rougher these days. Screw that hotdog. I value my American life.

MoreLemonPledge
08-27-2009, 12:19 AM
Mexico is getting rougher these days. Screw that hotdog. I value my American life.

Hot dogs taste better with a side of danger.

Raised On Riots
08-27-2009, 12:26 AM
Hot dogs taste better with a side of danger.

EVERYTHING tastes better with a side O' danger.

I shall rep you now.

salame
08-27-2009, 12:27 AM
I just love phallic shaped foods

KCChiefsMan
08-27-2009, 12:29 AM
real authentic Mexican cuisine is extremely underrated. It gets a very bad reputation from the tex-mex crap chains and taco bell.

MoreLemonPledge
08-27-2009, 12:31 AM
I just love phallic shaped foods

http://failblog.files.wordpress.com/2008/06/gummy-fail.jpg

DaneMcCloud
08-27-2009, 12:32 AM
I just love phallic shaped foods

I don't think that comes as a shock to anyone

:D

NTTATWWT

kysirsoze
08-27-2009, 12:53 AM
Speaking from experience, those types of hot dogs ****ing rule

Agreed. Nothing like coming out of a bar drunk and having some lady sell me a hot dog that she pulled out of a Jon's dumpster. You could probably wrap dogshit in bacon and it would taste OK.

DaneMcCloud
08-27-2009, 12:59 AM
Agreed. Nothing like coming out of a bar drunk and having some lady sell me a hot dog that she pulled out of a Jon's dumpster. You could probably wrap dogshit in bacon and it would taste OK.

Dude, did you ever have the bacon-wrapped hotdogs on Friday or Saturday night on Sunset Blvd?

They were fucking awesome. THE best drunk food ever invented by white or brown people.

Valiant
08-27-2009, 02:41 AM
So this qualifies as Mex-Tex since they took an American food and Mexinized instead of us americanizing Mexican food (Tex-Mex)??

kysirsoze
08-27-2009, 02:49 AM
Dude, did you ever have the bacon-wrapped hotdogs on Friday or Saturday night on Sunset Blvd?

They were ****ing awesome. THE best drunk food ever invented by white or brown people.

Maybe.... I know I've had them on Hollywood Blvd. and Los Feliz. Don't know if they have that same Sunset Flava.

Rausch
08-27-2009, 05:08 AM
THE problem with American hotdogs is they're American...

Hey, kiss my gringo ass.
Your food only is because we haven't cared enough yet to envade most latin-American countries and replace your culture with whatever strikes the fancy of our highest ranking general at the time.

That, and putting mayo on a dog should get you yer azz beat...

LaChapelle
08-27-2009, 05:55 AM
You know, you don't see many older mexican men. It's a North American conspiracy. Pork: killing off minorities for 2 centuries.

Gonzo
08-27-2009, 06:26 AM
(Standin' round here suckin' on mah big ol' Sonora dog!
Posted via Mobile Device

chasedude
08-27-2009, 06:31 AM
(Standin' round here suckin' on mah big ol' Sonora dog!
Posted via Mobile Device

I'm surprised 20 replies went by without saying THIS!

Rep my man!

Rausch
08-27-2009, 06:46 AM
You know, you don't see many older mexican men. It's a North American conspiracy. Pork: killing off minorities for 2 centuries.

It has less to do with pork and more to do with mexican women...

ChiefJustice
08-27-2009, 07:13 AM
Hey, kiss my gringo ass.
That, and putting mayo on a dog should get you yer azz beat...


http://www.whatheck.com/uploaded_images/moon-day-july-20-apollo-11-salute-706737-706799.jpg

Fish
08-27-2009, 08:44 AM
I'm getting gas just looking at that....

vailpass
08-27-2009, 08:48 AM
Uh, how about in Mexico?

:p

Arizona is another word for Mexico.

Buck
08-27-2009, 09:03 AM
Sure I love Mexican food, but saying an American hot dog is boring is plain idiotic.

Give me a Hot Dog with Ketchup and Onions only, fucking delightful.

angelo
08-27-2009, 09:04 AM
I have not tried this dog.

I have created the following.

Chimichanga Dog

12" flour tortilla
4oz hot dog
taco meat
bacon
pepper jack
cheddar
jalapenos
Wrap the whole thing up and deep fry.
Top with salsa, sour cream and guacamole

The Korean Hot Dog (no pun intended)

Steamed Bun
4oz hot dog (marinated over night in Korean BBQ Sauce) grilled
kim Chi

Kansas City Dog

4oz hot dog grilled
BBq Brisket
BBq Beans
Cole Slaw

Currently working on others

Ang

bulldogg
08-27-2009, 09:09 AM
Agreed. Nothing like coming out of a bar drunk and having some lady sell me a hot dog that she pulled out of a Jon's dumpster. You could probably wrap dogshit in bacon and it would taste OK.

I've had them after a show at the Palladium and Wiltern; but I have to be drinking to eat them. When I'm sober all I think about is the lack of sanitation: no water to wash with, the lack of refrigeration, and the grills look like they've not been cleaned in years. I never worried about this stuff when I was in my twenties, and they are tasty.

Stewie
08-27-2009, 09:31 AM
When you have to bury a hot dog under that much crap it's no longer a hot dog. And mayo? Who's promoting this as good food? Blech!

vailpass
08-27-2009, 09:34 AM
real authentic Mexican cuisine is extremely underrated. It gets a very bad reputation from the tex-mex crap chains and taco bell.

Are you from the Department of Redundancy Department?

Archie F. Swin
08-27-2009, 10:00 AM
You can improve a run-of-the-mill hot dog greatly simply by adding equal parts chopped onions and cilantro. Boom....mundane to magnificent

POND_OF_RED
08-27-2009, 10:03 AM
I used to work at a gas station and everyday a group of mexicans would all get hot dogs covered in mayo. I always thought it was weird but maybe that's what they are used to. I just can't imagine it being that good. Anyone here like there hot dogs with mayo?

vailpass
08-27-2009, 10:04 AM
Hey, kiss my gringo ass.
Your food only is because we haven't cared enough yet to envade most latin-American countries and replace your culture with whatever strikes the fancy of our highest ranking general at the time.

That, and putting mayo on a dog should get you yer azz beat...

Notice what country the little nacho-vendor is standing in when she rips on American dogs.

Demonpenz
08-27-2009, 10:26 AM
why do mexican even bother with hot dogs. Not like they give a fuck about out culture or even try to blend in

Raised On Riots
08-27-2009, 10:43 AM
Originally Posted by Rausch http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showthread.php?p=6004957#post6004957)
Hey, kiss my gringo ass.
Your food only is because we haven't cared enough yet to envade most latin-American countries and replace your culture with whatever strikes the fancy of our highest ranking general at the time.

That, and putting mayo on a dog should get you yer azz beat...




Notice what country the little nacho-vendor is standing in when she rips on American dogs.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RssIN3ustUw


:whackit::whackit::whackit::whackit::whackit::whackit:

KCUnited
08-27-2009, 10:44 AM
I've had these in Sonora and they are the bomb. We make them a couple of times over the summer for Royals tailgates. I still prefer a Chicago Dog from Dave's Stagecoach though.

Pestilence
08-27-2009, 10:46 AM
I lived in Tucson for 4 years and never heard of this place. FUCK!

tooge
08-27-2009, 10:46 AM
I miss the dogs in chicago when I lived up there, but these look incredible

vailpass
08-27-2009, 11:04 AM
I've had these in Sonora and they are the bomb. We make them a couple of times over the summer for Royals tailgates. I still prefer a Chicago Dog from Dave's Stagecoach though.

Sonora Mexico?

ClevelandBronco
08-27-2009, 11:04 AM
Dude, did you ever have the bacon-wrapped hotdogs on Friday or Saturday night on Sunset Blvd?

They were ****ing awesome. THE best drunk food ever invented by white or brown people.

If you really think so, then I dare you to try Juarez street enchiladas.

ClevelandBronco
08-27-2009, 11:09 AM
Arizona is another word for Mexico.

Yeah, well so is El Paso.

The Gringos have a saying down there: "Will the last American to leave please bring the flag?"

Actually, it's about 80 percent Mexico and 20 percent New Mexico.

And it ain't Texas at all.

DaneMcCloud
08-27-2009, 11:13 AM
If you really think so, then I dare you to try Juarez street enchiladas.

That's a dare I'd love to accept!

Seriously though, as many of you know, I used to live on the corner of Sunset and Fairfax right on the Sunset Strip. I walked to all of the bars and clubs several times a week. And many times, I'd stop and grab a couple of these dogs at 2pm in the morning. There were insanely good.

One night, I was out with a buddy (who happens to be Mexican-American) and we stopped for dogs after drinking Long Island's at the Rainbow all night. I ordered three dogs, two for me and one for my wife. The freakin' hot dog stand was about three city blocks from my house. I get home, get into bed and my wife wakes up.

Wife: What's that smell?
Dane: Oh, we grabbed some dogs on the way home.
Wife: You didn't get one for me?
Dane: Actually, I did. But I ate it.
Wife: DANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes folks, they were that good.

KCUnited
08-27-2009, 11:51 AM
Sonora Mexico?
Yes, Puerto Penasco specifically.