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View Full Version : Misc Painting noob, help!


Bump
08-24-2012, 01:00 PM
Hi everyone! It's bump here and I'm totally sober and getting ready to paint the hoarders house. But I have a problem, I don't know shit about paint!

So far I have a ceiling that is all cracking, peeling, etc. I've spent 5+ hours scraping the paint off, you obviously can't paint over cracked, bubbling paint like that, right? So I still have a lot more prep work to do on this ceiling, there are still a bunch of places where the old paint still needs to be scraped off and this is much more difficult than I expected. I have a power steamer and tried using that to help get the paint off, but I don't know if that's a good idea or not.

Anywho, once I'm done scraping I'm gonna spackle the shit out of it with this joint compound stuff and maybe put some plaster screws and washers on the larger ceiling cracks and sand the hell out of it once it drys.

So now my question comes in, it's plaster and I plan on using some primer + paint that is 100% acrylic. I bought it at home depot.

Like I don't know jack shit about which types of primers to use and what paint you have to use over which type of primer.

I also started painting a closet, I used Kilz water based primer and now I'm confused which type of paint needs to go over that!

any help would be much appreciated!

SNR
08-24-2012, 01:08 PM
I would recommend drinking anti-freeze so you don't have to deal with that mess.

Sofa King
08-24-2012, 01:12 PM
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQMFmdGsy7oMEhzmWMKJjG6gpR_V0PFbHaLTDtLxIpFkPQ1ZJt_bQ&t=1

Detoxing
08-24-2012, 01:13 PM
Just go to Home Depot and pay some Mexicans to do it. They'll knock it out in an hour or two and only charge you twenty bucks.

HemiEd
08-24-2012, 01:15 PM
Hi everyone! It's bump here and I'm totally sober and getting ready to paint the hoarders house. But I have a problem, I don't know shit about paint!

So far I have a ceiling that is all cracking, peeling, etc. I've spent 5+ hours scraping the paint off, you obviously can't paint over cracked, bubbling paint like that, right? So I still have a lot more prep work to do on this ceiling, there are still a bunch of places where the old paint still needs to be scraped off and this is much more difficult than I expected. I have a power steamer and tried using that to help get the paint off, but I don't know if that's a good idea or not.

Anywho, once I'm done scraping I'm gonna spackle the shit out of it with this joint compound stuff and maybe put some plaster screws and washers on the larger ceiling cracks and sand the hell out of it once it drys.

So now my question comes in, it's plaster and I plan on using some primer + paint that is 100% acrylic. I bought it at home depot.

Like I don't know jack shit about which types of primers to use and what paint you have to use over which type of primer.

I also started painting a closet, I used Kilz water based primer and now I'm confused which type of paint needs to go over that!

any help would be much appreciated!
Wow, I am glad that is you doing it and not me. I have had a enough of that kind of stuff.

I am not the expert that some are, but steam is not for paint removal, it is for wallpaper removal. I have horrible memories of the hot water from steam running down my arm onto my back.
You are going to need to sand or scrape/chip that stuff off.

If you used Kilz in the closet, you should be fine with any latex interior paint you pick up at the HD.

Sofa King
08-24-2012, 01:19 PM
Might i suggest....


http://img.timeinc.net/time/magazine/archive/covers/2006/1101060206_400.jpg

vailpass
08-24-2012, 01:19 PM
Whatever you do don't leave the paint in your truck and let it leak onto the driveway over night. Shit will get real in a hurry.

Baconeater
08-24-2012, 01:51 PM
First off, if the house has plaster and not drywall, the best thing to do would be to purchase a heat gun, let it run until it's good and hot, and lay it on the carpet and leave. Fuck plaster.

And the other thing, I don't know where the fuck Home Depot gets off selling this primer+paint garbage. Primer and paint are two different products that do two different things, and the p+p crap doesn't do either of them well. Don't ever waste your money on that shit again.

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 01:53 PM
Are you going to use a texture on the ceiling? If so, I wouldn't put too much effort into patching/sanding the small imperfections. If you're not going to use a texture, then I would grab a beer, put on some tunes, and kiss your time goodbye.

Also, like HemiEd mentioned, steam should not be used for paint removal. Plus, if the paint is peeling, it could be lead-based paint and that's some scary shit! How old is the house?

IME, KILZ is the best primer on the market. I would suggest going w/ water-based (latex) paint over the primer, (less headache w/ the clean-up). I would also suggest using a satin finish paint in the low-humidity rooms and semi-gloss in high-humidity rooms.

Baconeater
08-24-2012, 01:55 PM
How old is the house?

If it has plaster, it most certainly predates the ban on lead-based paints.

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 02:01 PM
If it has plaster, it most certainly predates the ban on lead-based paints.

That's exactly why I mentioned it. Our house was built in '65 and there was lead-paint used in our garage. :#

Big Smoke
08-24-2012, 02:01 PM
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQMFmdGsy7oMEhzmWMKJjG6gpR_V0PFbHaLTDtLxIpFkPQ1ZJt_bQ&t=1

ROFL

Baconeater
08-24-2012, 02:07 PM
That's exactly why I mentioned it. Our house was built in '65 and there was lead-paint used in our garage. :#
It's really not that big of a deal as long as you leave it alone.

Bump
08-24-2012, 02:14 PM
First off, if the house has plaster and not drywall, the best thing to do would be to purchase a heat gun, let it run until it's good and hot, and lay it on the carpet and leave. **** plaster.

And the other thing, I don't know where the **** Home Depot gets off selling this primer+paint garbage. Primer and paint are two different products that do two different things, and the p+p crap doesn't do either of them well. Don't ever waste your money on that shit again.

ya you are right about the p + p shit. I immediately regret buying that. Good thing I only bought a little can of it to try it. I can tell it's not gonna work before it even dries.

I gotta find a sherwin williams for something, fuck home depot, they didn't have much selection for paint.

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 02:16 PM
It's really not that big of a deal as long as you leave it alone.

In our situation though, it was too much of an eye-sore. Plus, I didn't want to take a chance w/ our son or our pets eating the crap. I just put on a mask, scraped off the big pieces, patched any imperfections, then applied a thick layer of KILZ.

HemiEd
08-24-2012, 02:16 PM
That's exactly why I mentioned it. Our house was built in '65 and there was lead-paint used in our garage. :#

I am curious, how do you know that?

Bump
08-24-2012, 02:16 PM
That's exactly why I mentioned it. Our house was built in '65 and there was lead-paint used in our garage. :#

yeah there is lead based paint all over the place. I don't know what I'm gonna do yet, I believe there is a type of paint I can use that will seal it in around the baseboards and windows. I did 3 tests on this ceiling though and found no lead, but I'm wearing goggles, paper mask and a hat anyways.

Phobia
08-24-2012, 02:39 PM
ya you are right about the p + p shit. I immediately regret buying that. Good thing I only bought a little can of it to try it. I can tell it's not gonna work before it even dries.

I gotta find a sherwin williams for something, **** home depot, they didn't have much selection for paint.

I'm not a fan of P+P either. But HD does have a good selection of paint and their paint is cheaper, better, & lasts longer than Sherwin Williams. The only thing SW has going for them IMO is that they're all over the place and their paint lays on like a dream. It's easily the best workability of any paint IMO.

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 02:39 PM
I am curious, how do you know that?

Given the age of the home and how it was peeling, I have no doubt that it was lead-based.

Strongside
08-24-2012, 02:41 PM
Sounds like you need a woman in your life. Get that wench to do the physical labor while you, my friend, kick up your heels and watch the game tonight.

HemiEd
08-24-2012, 02:46 PM
Given the age of the home and how it was peeling, I have no doubt that it was lead-based.

I thought maybe there was a test kit or something like that you used.


I don't get too excited about lead anyway, we used to play with both lead and mercury as kids. Mercury was a lot of fun, lead is just heavy and lays there. :D

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 02:49 PM
I thought maybe there was a test kit or something like that you used.


I don't get too excited about lead anyway, we used to play with both lead and mercury as kids. Mercury was a lot of fun, lead is just heavy and lays there. :D

There are test kits, but I didn't use one. I just went with a visual inspection.

<------ Certified home inspector, btw. ;)

Mercury, huh? That explains a lot! :p

HemiEd
08-24-2012, 02:55 PM
There are test kits, but I didn't use one. I just went with a visual inspection.

<------ Certified home inspector, btw. ;)

Mercury, huh? That explains a lot! :p

You inspect homes for realtors? Prospective home buyers? I guess you would know lead paint on sight.

The third ear comes in handy sometimes. :D

Bump
08-24-2012, 02:58 PM
I'm going with a textured ceiling, it's just in the pantry, so it's not that big of a deal. But there are literally thousands of spots where I had to scrape the paint off, no way I'm spackling and sanding all of that smooth. That would take years man!

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 03:07 PM
You inspect homes for realtors? Prospective home buyers? I guess you would know lead paint on sight.

The third ear comes in handy sometimes. :D

Sadly, no. I got certified in '05 and planned on opening my own inspection business... but it never happened. :sulk:

milkman
08-24-2012, 03:11 PM
tl;dr


Which n00b are you painting?

HemiEd
08-24-2012, 03:32 PM
I'm going with a textured ceiling, it's just in the pantry, so it's not that big of a deal. But there are literally thousands of spots where I had to scrape the paint off, no way I'm spackling and sanding all of that smooth. That would take years man!
I wouldn't want to do it either, good luck with the texturing. I guess it is passe now, but we just had it done on our addition to match the rest of the house.
Sadly, no. I got certified in '05 and planned on opening my own inspection business... but it never happened. :sulk:
Did the certification run out? What is holding you back?

Molitoth
08-24-2012, 03:35 PM
Just go to Home Depot and pay some Mexicans to do it. They'll knock it out in an hour or two and only charge you twenty bucks.

lol my brother in law used to flip houses, and that is exactly what he would do.
Drive down to The Paseo, grab some workers, and feed them McDoubles.

Pawnmower
08-24-2012, 03:37 PM
just get a super soaker, and fill it with paint..spray really slow at 1st till u get the hang of it

it will fill in the cracks

mikey23545
08-24-2012, 03:40 PM
That's exactly why I mentioned it. Our house was built in '65 and there was lead-paint used in our garage. :#

I believe Bump consumed enough lead paint chips as a youth that he should have built up a pretty good tolerance to it.

Iowanian
08-24-2012, 03:41 PM
Have Frankie back his truck inside and leave it sit for 12hrs.

Boom. House Painted.

boogblaster
08-24-2012, 04:41 PM
yup scrap the loose chit off .. paint with a sealer . then spray a textured paint on ..

bevischief
08-24-2012, 05:00 PM
How bad is loose paint? Is it all or just spots? If it is just spots use a sponge to apply the texture on. Screw the Kilzs. Just do 2 or 3 coats of paint. My dad is a painter of 20 plus years and has painted just about everything and can mix paint by eye sight without the machine.

Phobia
08-24-2012, 05:50 PM
How bad is loose paint? Is it all or just spots? If it is just spots use a sponge to apply the texture on. Screw the Kilzs. Just do 2 or 3 coats of paint. My dad is a painter of 20 plus years and has painted just about everything and can mix paint by eye sight without the machine.

Why would you do extra coats with $25-40 paint when if you use a $15 can of Kilz first, you'll be able to 2-coat with the more expensive stuff?

bevischief
08-24-2012, 05:57 PM
Why would you do extra coats with $25-40 paint when if you use a $15 can of Kilz first, you'll be able to 2-coat with the more expensive stuff?

It will last a lot longer. That was how I was taught and this was before Kilz. Also we got a discount as well because of amount of paint we went through.

Phobia
08-24-2012, 06:18 PM
I disagree that 3-4 coats of paint are going to last longer than 1 coat of primer with 2 coats of paint. Primarily because the primer seals and preps the surface to take paint. Whereas a latex paint simply lays on top of the surface and seals it off. Especially with regard to drywall, bare wood, and plaster. Paint alone will have a propensity to simply peel off those surfaces. I'm sure your dad is a fine painter and he's done it a long time very well. But that's an old-school way of thinking and it doesn't work as well as the new stuff. Paint has changed significantly in the past 30 years - even the past 10. Latex is safer but it doesn't perform as well as the old solvent and lead based stuff without some help.

Holladay
08-24-2012, 06:23 PM
I have an old farm house built in 1903. In one room, tore out all the plaster on the ceiling and walls. I didn't take off the old thick/wide trim because they would break. What a mess! Then tried getting the dry wall in between the lats and the trim?? That was a lot of fun. I only did ONE room of that crap.

I wouldn't paint the ceilings or walls, paint will show every little crack and bump.

three ideas:

1. sand as best as possible then wall paper. I painted some trim 2 weeks ago and that crap is bat shit expensive. Wall papering isnt that hard, takes a little time.

2. I had a hallway that had panelling over the plaster. I took off the panelling and had a bunch of nail holes and cracks in the plaster. I wasn't about to fill in all those things. I got dry wall plaster with the dry wall seam tape and covered all the cracks and patched the holes. Then I applied the dry wall plaster and coated the entire wall. As you apply, put some swirls ie added a texture to it. Get inventive. After it had dried, I lightly sanded it to take off any points and sharp edges. Lastly, I rolled some cheap paint on. Ended up with a nice stucco look wall and ceiling. They make a special wall treatment like the dry wall plaster that has some sand/grit that adds a different flavor.

3. I made my man cave this way. Newly hung dry wall and I hate to fill in the seems with tape and mud. I didn't want a whole room done as #2 and not mess with wall paper/paint. HD/Lowes/Menards etc all carry a 1/4" thick knotty pine/cedar 3.5" X 8' tongue and grove planks. Fairly cheap, ~ $1/ft'. A pack covers 14 ft'. I've used that stuff a lot. Over time the cedar darkens and looks cool.

I made it into a wainscoat. Cut the 8' planks in half and finish nailed the wood vertically to the bottom part of the wall. Then did as in #2 up to the ceiling and painted it white. At the seam around the room, nailed a thick trim or a chair rail. Looks quite nice for a man cave.

On the ceiling, they make a fiber ceiling tile that looks like a wide tongue in grove plank. Cheap and easy.

On the floor, nothing beats tile. You can find cheap tile now for .5 - $1. Takes a lil bit of learning, but fun and easy.

Phobia
08-24-2012, 06:35 PM
Holladay - you know that drywall does more than just make a pretty surface on your wall, right? When hung properly and taped/mudded, it's also a fire barrier for your house. Code calls for drywall to have a minimum of tape and a coat of mud to seal your walls and contain isolated fire to a room for 20-30 minutes.

I wasn't clear about how you were describing your process, so I thought I'd drop that tip. You may already be doing this but it wasn't clear to me.

Bump
08-24-2012, 06:46 PM
How bad is loose paint? Is it all or just spots? If it is just spots use a sponge to apply the texture on. Screw the Kilzs. Just do 2 or 3 coats of paint. My dad is a painter of 20 plus years and has painted just about everything and can mix paint by eye sight without the machine.

the entire pantry ceiling is bubbled, cracked or peeling. I've scraped almost all of it off, but there are still spots with loose paint. It's pretty much the entire ceiling. But it's like a 5X5 pantry, so it's not like a living room ceiling at least. I'm just going with a textured finish, it would take way too long to smooth it all out.

KCSupersized
08-24-2012, 07:03 PM
Benjamin Moore has a couple "paint&primer" that are very good products. For a ceiling paint there's a company called Richards that sell some excellent ceiling paint. In KC it's privately labeled for Pro Paint & Coatings. Acrylic (water based) paint can go over alkyd(oil based), or acrylic primer, though alkyd paint shouldn't be used over acrylic primer.

Lumpy
08-24-2012, 07:33 PM
Did the certification run out? What is holding you back?

You're probably thinking about a license. In Nebraska, you don't need one to perform home inspections, (unless you're going to offer Radon testing).

What's holding me back now is the crappy housing market. That, and I'm too busy w/ my full-time job and taking care of a family.

Psyko Tek
08-24-2012, 09:42 PM
tl;dr


Which n00b are you painting?

second page really?