Long tubes are a pain in the ass. We haven't put long tubes in a car in yeeeears. They generally interfere with power rack conversions thus requiring modifications on the driver side header.

Aftermarket Mustang II conversions (the most common front end swap on a classic) generally aren't compatible since the long tubes usually come down and run right into the cross-member. And they are a bitch to route around any late model transmission like a T56 Magnum, which already require trans tunnel modifications just to get the proper pinion angle.

For most street applications (300-800 Crank HP) they're simply un-necessary and muddle up the job, requiring more modification for no real reason.

They're a lot better in your classic street muscle car/pro touring car, imo. Lighter, breath better, and there's a shit ton of aftermarket support for them. You're less likely to run into things like header issues, clutch cable issues (if you run a cable, we use hydraulics) and even brake booster issues, as the extra width of a big block can be a pain in certain cars with smaller engine compartments, like early Falcons.

Right now we have two 65-66 Mustangs in our shop with 5.0 Coyotes in them. Wide as ****. Both require the removal of the shock towers and we had to completely re-design the firewalls, as the the heads are in the way of mounting anything in it's stock location on the firewall.

Yea, I cant claim to know anything about modifying old cars, I do know that with long tubes you always have a clearance issues in one way or another. In my full suspension car I CONSTANTLY dragged my long tubes on anything and everything, in my current stock suspension car the long tubes still get banged around now and again. I just know in f body applications shortys are good for about 8 HP on a stock motor, and long tubes are worth about 20. The bigger you go the more that disparity increases, but I guess in the grand scheme of things 20-30hp difference on a setup isnt much. I think it just goes to the fact that most peoples first modification on a street driven F body is headers, which is a little different than doing ground up builds for resto mod stuff.

I have a 427CI SBC in my car. It's a Dart Little M block.

4"'stroke and 4.125"'bore. It can be punched out to 440CI with no modifications. And I think you can get 480CI with a longer rod. (4.25" stroke I think)

Yeah bolt on late model stuff is a bit different. When a customer comes to us and says he wants his build to dyno around 600HP, the difference between long tubes and shorties isn't going to make or break that goal, but it will cost the customer thousands more in fabrication hours, compared to something we can bolt on and not worry about.

We're going to reach that HP figure, long tubes or not, so we opt to avoid the headache, time and money.

I think earlier in this thread i mentioned a 65 Mustang Twin Turbo 5.0 Coyote Build and i shared a few pics. Update pics incoming.

Turbo Intake. One on each side of the car, fabricated air intakes. We modified the floor pan and use the frame rails as air intakes, due to turbo positioning and spacial restraints.

http://i.imgur.com/fsS4027.jpg

Intake/Floor Pan from inside w/ Filter.

http://i.imgur.com/mRkUwsK.jpg

Custom Fab'd headers, twin 78mm Turbos.

http://i.imgur.com/AcOXa86.jpg

78mm Turbo

http://i.imgur.com/CldHBu2.jpg

5.0 Coyote stuffed in a '65 Mustang engine bay.

http://i.imgur.com/0diLXnY.jpg

nice

That's badass man. :thumb: You've got a good welder.

Thanks, we have some good fabricators. The guy who's mostly on this car and fabricating this stuff up....is missing 4 fingers from a birth defect.

He's like our Rick Allen, LMAO.