If the entire box is grounded your initial instincts are correct.

I am not an electrician, but I've completely rewired the houses I've owned over the years. I'm used to the standard plastic residential boxes, 8/10/12/14 gauge wire.

Somebody will know what they are looking at with the orange stuff. You should be fine, though.

I see your metal conduit comment now.

Thats an interesting code and definitely not how us hillbillies normally operate down here. You could probably connect the green wire to a screw in the back wall or corner of the box, if it's even there. But it would be a redundancy to the assumed box to switch connection your code allows for when you screw the switch to the box.

That green screw on the switch is used to connect a ground wire to the metal box ground screw-hole in the back. Some metal boxes may have a green grounding clip or you can buy at hardware store.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/proje...20the%20dimmer.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-co..._02561_007.jpg

I’ve tied new wire without conduit into old conduit wrapped wiring like this. The entire metal box is grounded so if you screw the ground from your new wire into the box, the ground will carry on to your switch and light.

The ground/bare wire might be hidden on the other side of the toggle switch.

Do you have a Volt olm meter????

That wad of wire that wire nut is probably ground, or another one like it

When you sell a savvy inspector will check that dimmer's wiring...

This picture shows the redundancy I was talking about. Note where the green wire originates from on the switch. When you screw the switch to the box with your metal screw you're doing the exact same thing as connecting the green wire to the copper wire and then the copper wire to the box. Of course, the paint and mud work or even moisture can reek havoc on the trust the screw connection requires.

This whole system also ASSUMES your small box conduit grounded system is properly grounded at the big box and that there is no stray voltage in the system or back feeding from a short somewhere in the closed system. Dairy farms and other livestock facilities prove time and time again that a conduit grounded system can do some weird shit. It normally reveals itself when the big box burns itself off the wall and the whole place shuts down. It's why I prefer the wire to actually go back to the bar in the box, even if it's just for my peace of mind.

Yeah, I just chose that picture as an example of pigtail the ground with copper wire which is code in most areas.

The link I posted and describes checking with a volt ohmmeter to make sure your switch wall box is grounded. It also describes options if it's not. When in doubt seek an electrician for peace of mind.

Oh no, plug that bitch in and learn the hard way! Then grunt like a real CP manly man when you pull yourself up off the floor while checking to see if your nuts are still hanging where they're supposed to be. :thumb:

For those that don't know use a volt ohmmeter and first check for voltage between the hot and neutral sockets. The gold screw on the switch is always hot and silver screw is neutral green is always ground, the small slot on a outlet is hot and large slot neutral. First check for voltage between hot and neutral then hot to ground, ground being metal wall box. If you have voltage that's a good indicator that you are grounded and ok to fasten ground wire to wall box.

Old houses with 2 prong wireing is always grounded at wall box. Modern home with 3 prong uses 3 wire cable one being ground.

Reached out to the builder this morns who confirmed the box(es) is grounded

I am going to go out on a limb and say you have a solid metal conduit ground system so the box is the ground. There should be a lug on the back to run a strap to the switch or it will ground it'self. I would run the strap.


https://i.postimg.cc/mkLTsDbr/image-...-19-191139.png

Need help identifying this type of lightbulb

Guessing its some type of LED but didn't see anything like it at Home Depot or Menards

They're outfitted in every bedroom I have

https://i.imgur.com/TtAvlLA.jpg?1

You may be better off just replacing the whole fixture. I checked Amazon and couldn't find anything resembling what you have

Yeah, I've looked all over the Net and haven't found much. May just text the builder. They're less than 2 years old and in 5 different rooms.

From the thread title I assumed this was going to be about billay, my bad.:thumb:

Yeah, I had an electrician put one in. Non-replaceable LED.

Any idea how/why it would fail so quickly?

You are not getting that at HD/Lowes. Only from a lighting store that sells to builders. We have something along the lines of that. A few in the development have gone out Just the odds of human made materials.

KCUnited with rich people problems.

I have ****ing bulbs!!!

Peasant

Hey now, I've seen your cement pond

I don’t. My guess is cheap China shit.

Id think it’s unlikely to be an install problem.

Fiber is the future, man.

Bump

Anyone got a line on these beauties?

https://i.imgur.com/dJTR9lb.jpeg

I've been upgrading faucets in my home. Moving away from the single lever bathroom faucet to a more stylish 2-handle faucet that includes a pop-up drain. So nice.

Upgraded my kitchen faucet to a multiple spray option. Detachable spray head that eliminates a separate sprayer. Very clean look and a major improvement.

I hope you bought them at a plumbing supply distributor and not at a big box store.

Reeves-Weideman. We deal with them at work and I've been there several times for our high pressure plumbing needs.

What I bought can be readily purchased online, but got the wholesale price.

Things have changed in the past few years. Parts that used to be available only to pro plumbers and HVAC and the like are now available online. You can't go to Home Depot and buy a capacitor, but they're sold in a ton of places online. Saves a lot of money. No need for a $130 service call for a $15 part.

I’ve got one word for you… plastics.

BTW... Pop-up drains are different. They don't rely on a metal to metal seal like the olden days. It's a gasket that seals the drain. Way better. The pretty chrome top is just for appearances.

We have AC units with 15 year warranties. They are 3 years old.

The maintenance tech today said the ac blower motors is dirty and needs cleaning and it’s $800 total to do both units. He says the warranty requires ac blower motor cleaning every 2-5 years, depending on how dirty they get. In Phoenix we use ac 8 months of the year so they get dirtier quicker. Aren’t ac systems closed units or is this really necessary maintenance?

The blower motor is not in the closed part of the system. Better filters help but yes they need cleaned

$800 to blow out some fan dust with a compressor? I'm in the wrong business.....

Well it's 400 each for 2 units but at that price it should be more than just cleaning blower motors. It may also include the condenser coils

It's not so much about the motors themselves, it's the squirrel cage that really gets dirty. But if you don't smoke, don't have pets, and haven't done any serious remodeling in the home, I really doubt that they need it done.

Have the guy show you pictures of them. Or go look at them yourself and judge.

Thanks. They do clean to condenser coils when they come out already.

We have a cat but nothing else you mention. This is Phoenix though and I still wonder if running the AC for 8 months straight just means it's going to get dirtier here, plus it's dusty.

I also use the cheap filters and just change them every 30 days. I am wondering if I should step up to a slightly better filter with a MERV 8 rating. I know you don't want super restrictive filters as it makes it hard on the system but maybe these cheap Merv 1 fiberglass filters just aren't cutting it!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/AAF-AAF-F...hoCf9cQAvD_BwE

He just sent us pictures and while it's not super dirty, he did clean off one of the blades and it's noticeably metal looking compared to all the rest that are brown. I think since we have 15 year warranties on these units through this company, they are making sure they're running at optimal efficiency, so it doesn't feel like a total money grab I guess. I also don't think I have much choice as they will void the warranty if we don't get these cleaned. I just think that sounds stupid expensive for what the work is.

They make cleaning solutions for A/C units. Mix it up in a garden sprayer and clean it yourself. It's really easy. Get some goggles, gloves and go for it. The motors and units are sealed; just pull the plug on the outside and use no metal tools inside.

The blower motor in the furnace unit is behind the filter so it really shouldn't get that dirty.

I re-grouted the shower in my new house last week. I mixed it way too thick and the shit was like working with peanut butter. If I have to do that again I would mix it way thinner next time.

Also some asshole tried patching with caulking on top of the grout. It was a pain in the ass to remove just before I could get started.

My 2 cents: living where you do, keeping your system running at peak efficiency might save enough to pay for itself. Quality maintainence prevents headaches down the road. But I would get a 2nd estimate or 3.

Screw that, I would rather retile than extract grout...... I feel bad for you having to do that. I have the grout removing dremel bit and still wouldn't want to do it.

This ^^^

The condenser coils on the outside unit is important to keep clean and easy to DIY. Never heard of the necessity to clean the forced air furnace fan motor blades. The cheap filters should be catching it before its reaches the home ducting. That price sounds steep but how accessible can effect price.

I didn't completely remove it, I just scraped the top layer off with a grout saw. Still a ton of work though.

So they recommend installing 4" media cabinet filters to help keep the equipment cleaner. This would eliminate filters at the return and you would just change these media cabinet filters every 6-12 months. These filters are installed before the blower motor so dirt/dust is trapped before the equipment and before it enters your house. Would keep equipment cleaner and the house air cleaner too from what I researched, is that correct?

Yes I think so. I'm not a hvac guy but am a big believer in good filters. I have had issues when I was younger with poor filters and now am vigilant on upkeep

Sooo...need a new dishwasher. Should I stick with the Lowe's/Home Depot delivery and installation option or am I burning money?

https://target.scene7.com/is/image/T...lt=80&fmt=webp
https://cdn-tp3.mozu.com/24645-37138..._1703879152693

I mean how many dishes can a single person have?

i'm not that poor

plus it will help anyway when i rent the place out

I bet she still washes Jamal's dishes.

Get the Bosch, the quiet one with the light that shines on the floor so you know it's on. Best dishwasher I've ever had, by far.

I think the Dishwasher is the most overrated appliance in the home. Runs up the water and electric bill. Does a piss poor job of cleaning unless you pre-rinse and clean any sticky dried-up gunk because you let them set in the sink. Even if you do get a full load every evening if you don't rinse them you usually don't get clean dishes. Then there is the little problem that they don't last long and tend to clog your plumbing because the disposers in the dishwasher suck. All that grease and muck goes straight into your plumbing because it bypasses the sink disposal to chop up good.

But yeah if everything is plug-and-play and up to code Lowes or HD is fine. If they have to do extra it can be a problem.

One of the best and most versatile power tools I own is the multi-tool (or oscillating tool). So many uses and its unique ability to do plunge cuts is epic.

I wish dewalt had a battery powered rotary/dremel type tool.

Sorry but mine is over 20 years old and works great. Imagine the new ones even better. Yes I do rinse my dishes.I think mine is more of a disinfection than a cleaner. Oh wow 24 years old. I am in the woods on a a old septic tank so maybe your view is not everyone's.

Buy a bosch dishwasher.

Apparently they have the longest life

Ours is about 5 years old and absolutely love it. We scrape off any chunks on the plates and never have a problem. It's just the wife and me now so we only run it once a week and everything is perfect. So quiet you can't hardly hear it when it's running.

I’m an idiot and I can install a dishwasher in like 30 minutes

Why not just get the Dremel one? I can see if you have invested a lot in Dewalt cordless I guess.

https://mobileimages.lowes.com/produ...9.jpeg?size=xl

My dumbass neighbor is finally finishing his deck. It has taken six years.
The smartest thing he is doing is putting up a wall so we can not see them when they are on the deck.
It will not help him much with the southern sun but will help block his outdoor light that he leaves on all the time. it will block it from our deck when we are sitting there.

Don’t get Pete triggered talking about lights shining onto your property

For gods sake, I know you are an asshole, and we dont get along, but turn off your back light. It is on 24/7 since 2020. I know I have blackout curtains, but really...

not you JR

Yeah, the reason is really to stay on one battery for all tools and I have a couple dewalt tooks already. I had a cheap harbor freight dremel tool but it’s a few years old and the battery is shot so I’d order to standardize.

Understood. But it seems it would be bulky with Dewalts 20 v batteries. Does Dewalt even make 12 v power tools?