See - there ya have it.

You didn't spread pillows all around it.

Wow, you're awful brave doing that on Friday the 13th and all.

Why wouldn't they rent you a ladder?

I'll bet you had a devil of a time rigging that.

Probably wasn't wearing his collar "thingy" and thought he was a felon.

Was he wearing Raider gear?

Would you let him borrow your ladder if he were your neighbor? You know his head alone weighs about 80 lbs.

GD - I wish I could rep that but I've already repped you in the "Psi - Unveiling" thread and it won't let me.

I didn't realize that it was friday the 13th. Maybe that explains why I didn't get everything finished up in time to play golf. Maybe I didn't want to play golf on friday the 13th either.


I went in, asked the guy what the biggest step ladder he had was, he said it was a 12 footer - which I could have reached everything with but it would have been more of a stretch. Anyhow, he tells me that the 12 footer won't work because it isn't tall enough - said you can't reach higher than 12 foot while standing on it anyway.:rolleyes: Then, I say I'll take it and give it a try anyway, to which he kinda isn't to happy about, then he says, "How you gonna haul it". I told him since I was only going a a dozen or so blocks, I could just let it hang out of my van - to which he had a real conniption. So I just looked at him and said, I guess you don't want to rent it so I'll have to figure something else out. Then I left.

Nice... using a step ladder to increase the height of the wooden ladder.

Dartgod, someone probably told them about his safety record.

Not really. Put one ladder on top of the other and tied the top rungs together with rope. The 6 foot step ladder was an after thought as that aluminum "Widow-maker" as I call it, didn't have a very wide stance. After climbing a little way up, I decided to add a rope at the top for a couple of others to hold to steady it up.

Them's fightin' words mister!!!:cuss:



:):)

Yeah, all them brains gets heavy.

okay.. the step ladder was for added stability. That makes it all better! :thumb:

There's no wooden ladder in that pic.


Leave it to a girl to not know what she's talking about when it comes to tools.:shake:

I bought two of these for my garage and love them. You must make sure they are anchored well to a stud in the wall though.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...extension+cord

The one on the right looks wooden in my picture... but since you mention it - it must have been the poor lighting in your work area. Maybe another reason why the rental guys wouldn't rent to you?

Preacher,

A real handy-man would have manufactured a stability bar out of twisted-doubled Duct tape.

Busted. I was out of duct tape, thus I had to use rope. :banghead:


Actually, on the stability bar, I did contemplate running an old water pipe through the rung tubes and tie off on the pews. Had I not had 2 able bodied people to hold the ropes, the water-pipe may have happened.

your AC repair needs answered here:
http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showthread.php?t=117494


Anyone know anything about Radon Remediation devices?

How did I ever miss this thread ?

I don't know....you were probably finding out that your kid was getting married and shaggin in your man-chair the day this came out.

Ok, I redid the roof over my back porch (sun porch) last year with tar and roll roofing. It has been just fine for a year and a quarter. Just the other day it rained and water was leaking right at the back door. That is where the sun porch roof meets the house roof. The house roof is in bad shape and needs replacing (hopefully just re-shingling. We plan on getting that done next year as money allows. Anyway, I went up there the other day to see if I could find an obvious place where the water could leak through but nothing looked bad on my roof work on the sunporch. Anyone got any ideas on how to find a leak short of getting on the roof during a thunderstorm?

Did you put any flashing and or tar against where the roof meets the house?

Is it draining away from the house or could it be pooling? See any obvious tears in roofing or exposed nails?

Screw this......I'm backing out before I say somethign stupid.

Wait for JSP. This has his name written all over it.


btw....I'm making one of the bucket-electric chord holders for my garage this week...maybe tonight.

It's usually around a plumbing or attic vent unless you can see an obvious shingle missing. You do NOT want **** with your roof. Walk on crappy carpet for a year too long, neglect your paint for a while but do NOT jack with the roof.

Take a bucket of tar up there and liberally cover any of the joints around those vents. See if that clears up the problem.

Thanks for for the tips, guys.

Garage door opener dilema.

Ok Tool Men...
I've got a garage, it has a door, it has a newer automatic opener.
It was working fine, and then one day, wasn't. I can push the button(remote or one inside) and it opens just fine, when I push the close button, it comes down about 3/4 the way, goes back up and clicks/blinks 3 times.

Suggestions?

On the back of the unit there is a reset button. Try it.

Redo the code and syncronize the unit.

Have you got an outside keypad to manually enter a code in?

Three, off the top of my head.

Check to make sure all of the rollers are in the track, and aligned properly in the mounting brackets on the door panels.

If so, try keeping the button pressed in the entire travel of the door going down. See if it makes it through the snag-spot.

If not, press the button and get to the door before it snags, and "assist" it through said snag-spot.

All I gotfernow.

Dinny

If I hold the button from inside, it will close. If I don't hold the button through the cycle, it won't.

It does have an outside entry pad, but I don't think I've ever used it. I'll check for a reset button, but don't have a clue as to redoing codes.

BRC had steps 4 and 5.

They require some uh, well... er you know, probably a ladder, and some uh,

I got nothin'

Dinny

Ladder not required....I can stand in my boat which is taking up the whole thing, which gets to the problem....

To Do
21."get the garage door fixed and open for use by the family before snow falls"....oops.

At the risk of a good callin' out, you might be suffering from what we in the "industry" call a defective or worn-out garage door opener.

Dinny

Its possible, but though I bought hte house in June, and it wasn't clarified as to the age, I don't think the opener is very old....I'd wager less than 5 years. What is the average life expectancy?

1. Loosen the door from the opener [there should be a quick release on the chain/gear] and manually run it through the problem area, see if there's a palpable snag.
2. If you have the electric eyes, make sure they're not getting misaligned or obstructed by the travel of the door.
3. Check and see if your opener has a sensitivity setting. If so, open it up a little.
4. Check your manual and see if the '3 blink' is a specific problem code.

I honestly don't know what the life-expectancy, but I'm sure it's tied to the quality of the unit.

If you can't find a snag in the track/roller thang, be aware there is a wide gray area between completely dead and working properly.

If the reset/reprogram doesn't solve it, you are likely looking at some new hardware.

And of course, the lowest price is not always the greatest value.

Dinny

Your tension spring is broken.

Check the two springs on the roller above the door. One of them is broken.

Do not try to repair this yourself.

Call a professional.

A little premature, no? Don't know if he has tension spring or running/roller spring. Also, a bad tension spring would produce more problems raising than lowering.

I dunno. I've run into 3 of these situations in the past year. I didn't pay much attention to the symptoms but from what I absorbed there's a match. Most newer doors have the roller tension springs.

If there'd be mention of the opener laboring more than usual, or problems on raising, I'd be exploring that too. But this smacks of a safety/obstruction/electronics problem. Something's telling it there's something in the way.

I have it on good authority that boogers will serve as caulk when you're in a pinch. They're oderless too.

FAX THE INNOVATIVE

OMG...you are back...I've missed you.

BTW, I had a hot water heater issue this weekend, and I decided that I am definitely "female" when it comes to this kind of crap.

Stand standing so close to the water heater and it might not be so hot.


:D

Thank you for the kind words, Ms. JennyGump. I'm enjoying being back. I trust that, save the water heater, the remainder of your parts are all in working order?

FAX THE THOUGHTFUL

Back to the Garage door opener.
The Electronic eye is being block by something or most likely it is poorly aligned or loose. I have the same problem but I'm too lazy to fix it. On mine the eye is loose and the door moving vibrates enough to stop it and send it back up.
I'd bet your opener is blue it could be by several brand names but they are the same. The three blinks is the code for obstruction of the eye.
Sean

I've fiddled with the E eyes, but just can't see anything blocking the view...I'll doublecheck that again.

I"ve done most of the "common sense" stuff I could think of...The Springs don't appear to be broken, I tightened the bolts I could, I greased the track.

I'll take a good look at it probably this weekend. I appreciate the advice from all, and welcome any additional.

I'm considering a new door anyway, but would like to hold off a couple of years and rebuild the whole garage...with more room.

Check where your wires go into the E-eye, if they somehow got jerked it may have damaged them.

Anyone know why my toilet won't flush properly? Here's the problem. When you flush it, you have to hold the handle down or it stops flushing as soon as you let up on the handle. I have replaced the flapper and the handle(plastic was broken in the handle) and I'm still having the same problem. I guess I should just replace the whole inside mechanisms. But this is bugging the heck outta me. What makes the flapper stay up when you flush?

Sounds like the chain hooking the flapper to the handle is too long try shortening it.

Nope, it isn't a chain. It's a rubber thing like make for trash bags. It's as tight as it can get without making the water run all the time.

Well I gave it a shot, I havent seen the kind of thing your talking about.

Good luck, someone on here will know.

Ask Bob Dole. He knows a lot about shit.

Thanks for trying, badgirl.

After some internet searching, I'm thinking I should not have gone with the cheap one size fits all flapper that I picked up at Walmart. It appears that kind may not work properly with my toilet.

I just started to suggest that exact thing :p

Warn Winch Conversion.

Does anyone know IF and How you can convert a 24 volt Winch to a 12 volt system?

Warn M1200 I think is the model number....I need to know IF you can convert it, how to do it, and if it will work half speed on a 12 volt system.

The sooner the better.

You can get the schematics' at Warns' web site. I've done it just by hooking up one battery instead of the two. It worked at about half speed and half torque. But...it worked.

Some eletric motors will burn up if the voltage is low.

Does anyone know how to make Carhart coats water resistant again after you wash one.

You're stuck aren't you.

Get some silicone boot spray (NOT the Mink Oil) and spray it on your jacket.

Exactly.

Bonus tip of the day:

If you are out bird hunting with your dog in burr country, spray the dog down with cooking spray before you start beating the brush. Most of the burrs with just fall right off and not stick in their fur. Doing this can say you hours at the end of the day.

Better yet, get yourself a Pointer. Their hair isn't long enough to hold burrs.:thumb::)

Nice dogs, but I think they would be doing the "death stroke" if you sent one into the Yellowstone River in December. :hmmm:

Seems like a waste of beer to me. I oughta neg rep your ass. :cuss: :cuss:

I'm not all that handy, but I got tired of just throwing pencils at the ceiling, so I taped some thumb tacks on the end of the pencil and put a rubber band on another one to make a pencil bow and arrow. Not very accurate but takes up some time.

Its that time of year again when the projects start up.....

Last weekend, when looking for some info before roofing my dad's cabin, I found this site....It seems like its got some good information on materials, calculating need and some good, detailed "how to" advice on many subjects. Its going in my favorites folder.

http://www.doityourself.com/

What projects are on your 'honeydo' list this spring?

I'm looking at the following....
-new windows
-install Island in Kitchen, new countertops or maybe tile.
-landscaping-flowerbed-raised garden

The landscaping and Kitchen are priority, but Windows are a serious probability by fall. I've never put in replacements, but can't imagine its that tough.

Just finishing up putting ceramic tile in my kitchen(grouting sucks!). Have to repaint the outside of the house and get gutters put on. Landscaping after that. Probably gonna sell the house after painting.

This was a thread, asking about some concrete and rebar issues.

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showt...11&goto=postid

Several "man questions" have been brought up this week, this might be a good time of year to discuss this stuff.

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Yungdungwell posted that link that appears decent for appliance troubleshooting.

The real question and reason for this post regards brick masonry. My house has front steps with brick walls and pillars. They've got a white/yellow fungus of some kind growing on them and discoloring them.

Whats the best method to remove that? I'm thinking of spraying it with Bleech water but thought I'd check here first.

What's the best way to remove wallpaper?

It seems we have 2 layers in our bathroom. One that is peeling off rather easily, and another, thin white layer, that won't peel off that easily.

There's an acid wash that masons use to clean bricks (muriatic maybe?). Not sure of cost. If you have a brickyard in the vicinity, I'd shoot them a call. Normally the best place to get an informed opinion on building materials is from someone who sells the product.

you sure that white layer isn't the outside of the drywall?

Fairly sure. It peels off, just not as easy as the other layer.

Could it be a layer of glue?

No. It is paper.

I think it's the outside of the dry wall.

That would certainly suck.

I'm thinking so too.

Well, not much of that has peeled off. What do I do about it?

Not a big deal, really. Do you plan on papering again? If so, it's no big deal at all. If you plan to paint, just throw a little wall compound (spackle) over the area (only if it's deep).