Not a ZL1 1LE is would be my guess. the 1LE is another $7500 option and adds the different front and rear spoiler with the flat black hood.

The 1LE suspension option is pretty radical, the Camaro was only 3 seconds behind the Z06 at Nürburgring last year. :eek:

To complicate my decision making a buddy with an optioned out 2016 Z06 with 10,000 miles on it asked if I wanted to take over payments. I'm waiting to see what he owes on it.

The car in question from a post a few years ago.

Damn damn damn.

Is that the carbon fiber package in the 1le?

Tough decision. 2-3 years payments off...

My god that’s a beautiful car.

I ordered one of these today! Now I have to wait about four months :-(

So a while back I talked about how i was having some oil issues, oil burning in turbo etc and how I had cleared that up. Well it turns out under more testing it was NOT cleared up, just a little bit better.

I started doing some digging and came across an idea that a proper actual PCV system would keep the oil flowing away from the turbo regardless of the angle of the car, or sitting ona decline etc.

I started talking with David from Mighty Mouse. Some of you guys might know him, as hemakes all kinds of catch can solutions for perofrmance cars. Anyways after k ind of figuring out my needs, I settled on a catch can/pcv system in one, thinking it might cure my issues.

So I got the piece put on the car, and let me tell you, this thing is beautiful. But most importantly, after some heavy testing, I can now finally say that my oil burning issues are cured! I never ever gave a second thought to a proper PCV setup and how it might affect the car, but I am glad I stumbled across the suggestion online.

https://i.imgur.com/hksZbtl.jpg


With the oiling issues fixed, and the car on a fully safe tune, I am ready to turn this baby up~ Car hits the Dyno next weekend and we are gonna string this thing out and see if we can keep the rods in the black.

Happy car season yall!

Hey man, are you making it up this way to this years Festival of Speed?

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oFLIlXJ6eHg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

well there she is boys~

Dialed her in tonight pretty well, once we did about 7-8 pulls getting th e AFRs right the tires got a bity greasy, so when we added timing to make some real power we started blowing the tires off on the dyno, never where able to get a non-spinning reading on a full pull.

Car made 550whp and 680tq at 11 degrees of timing at 9psi. On the street the car is hitting about 13 pounds of boost but on the dyno the conditions just dont allow that.

With adding 5 degrees of timing, at 13 pounds of boost we are estimating somewhere around 700whp and tq on this dyno with a clean run. To put into perspective for some of the folks in CP that may want something to compare 'manufacturer' numbers too, the car is around 900 crank horsepower, over a hundred more than say.. a hellcat.

Im pretty happy with it but we have now ran into a new issue.

TRACTION. At 400whp my suspension setup was fine, even at the 550 level before we turned it up it was fine. With the car turned up now, i can blow the tires of st 70mph if I want too by stabbing straight into the throttle. From a dead stop, or even a 30 roll its extremely sketchy traction wise and I cant even get a true full pull~

Car goes to the paint both on Sunday! No more unpainted hood, rock chips, broken spoiler etc.

Hope you other guys winter projects are going as good~!

damn. nice.

Question, going to put headers on my elko..builder of my motor recommended headers with a 3/8 flange as opposed to 5/16/ or 1/4, to help eliminate leaks and warping.

...but I've heard others say it's not necessary..

Thoughts?

Good advice, harder to install, but all my Z's run 13mm (1/2) or thicker flanges.

Thought you might enjoy:

<iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fdrivetribe%2Fvideos%2F403363877121048%2F&show_text=0 &width=476" width="476" height="476" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>

Why would a thicker flange make them harder to install?

I don't work on small blocks often but I do have some bent and cut off wrenches that If I recall correctly were for in car installs of headers on SB Chevy's. Probably "Clarance" issues at the rear of some installs. I recall cutting. grinding and bending wrenches before good stuff like this come out.

https://i2.wp.com/www.stage8.com/wp-...96%2C414&ssl=1

Having an even thicker flange might make this issue mute or exacerbate it, I'm not sure but I have kept those wrenched for 25 years so they must have been useful at some time.

The only thing I work on these days are Datsun engines.

How thick is the flange on your average exhaust manifold?