Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 11450442)

Welp, I've got another subject I'm lost on. :facepalm:

Got back from the tire place after having them put the Gorilla wheel locks on. They said since the tires are 10 years old they normally wouldn't touch them but agreed to do that and nothing else. They said the tires have great tread on them since they were rarely driven but there is cracking showing toward the outside of the tire. They suggest getting them placed.

They are 10 year old Toyo Tires. 245/40R-19 98Z on front and 275/35R-19 100Z on back. What's the reason for the difference in tire size from the front to the back tires? I'm just assuming since it's staggered a bit and since it's RWD the bigger tires go in back? With these tires you would also never rotate then as those tires would never go on the front, correct?

I got the wheels and tires cheap from a friend who sold his vette. in a perfect world I'd rather have 275's all the way around so I can rotate them. but her ass is wicked looking though! :D

Here's a picture of the cracking they are doing. Thoughts on the cracking? As I said, tread is good with only about 10k use on them but again 10 years old.

http://i.imgur.com/jlHlbUV.jpg?1


If I did decide to replace them would I have to do different sized tires again or could I go same 19" tires all the way around and rotate them every 5k to increase longevity of tire?

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 11452650)

New tires being placed now!

Originally Posted by frankotank (Post 11454837)

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/pictu...pictureid=1459

I got the rims and tires together and the tires were 8 years old. in really good shape too. lots of tread left. I have a couple mechanic friends and they could tell by the numbers on the tires that they were 8 years old. they said anything over 5 years is suspect as rubber deteriorates over time. apparently you can get ripped off at some places buying "new" tires that in reality are years old. just spent 1200 on new rubber. 275 front 315 rear.

a car that powerful....hell even if it wasn't that powerful.....ditch 'em. a blowout at 35/45 is bad enough.......and I'm guessing you gonna be going a tad faster than that most times....

Originally Posted by Tombstone RJ (Post 11454635)

all the banks are gonna be closed at 6pm. If they like the car and give you cash, then you give them the car but NOT the title. Tell them that once the title is notarized, and all the paper work (title work) is done, they can have the title too.

If they are not comfortable with this deal, get a non-refundable deposit (say $100) and tell them you all will have to close the deal tomorrow, when you can finalize the title transfer.

A car is worthless without the title and a car is worthless if the title has problems or issues. So, you have all the power with the title.

(oh, and I will take a personal check when I sell a car, but I won't give anyone the car, nor the title, until the check clears).

Originally Posted by Brock (Post 11454954)

A cashier check is a bearer instrument (same as cash). It's not drawing from an account that might be empty. So they're good as long as it's a legit cashier check. Cash is better than anything though.

Originally Posted by Silock (Post 11455006)

Best bet is to just meet at a bank

Originally Posted by lewdog (Post 11457237)

Offered me 3k which is more than I expected from a dealer.

Other people sound almost for sure and will let me know tonight after looking at final car. I was asking 5k but I know that's high and didn't expect it. I liked both of them so much being full-time students and working that I straight up told them 4k and it's yours. They were shocked and wife said I'm stupid for doing that. But I'd rather have the car go to someone who needs a reliable car and is in life working hard. I can sympathize with working and going to school full-time. They seemed like good people. I'd rather lose a few hundred dollars to make this happen for people I feel good about.