Originally Posted by Cochise (Post 10398179)

I guess it makes sense that anytime you have metal parts that wear, you will have some debris, no matter how small. The question would just be if the material in yours is normal or abnormal.

Originally Posted by Radar Chief (Post 10398241)

I think most of the debris he’s talking about is coming from the clutch pack.
You’re a motorcycle guy, ever get into the clutch of your motorcycle? An automatic transmission has a clutch assembly that looks identical to the wet clutch assembly you’ll find in a motorcycle, same type of basket, drive and driven clutch plates.
From there my automatic transmission knowledge gets sketchy. I’ve been into enough standard transmissions I understand how they work but automatics are black magic to me.

Originally Posted by El Jefe (Post 10398320)

No problem man! I don't know everything, but I know enough to try and help some people who don't.

Originally Posted by El Jefe (Post 10398072)

Good post. However Lucas will not fix a front seal issue. We call Lucas liquid Gold at our shop and we have saved a lot of people money by using it. Lucas Stop Slip is a common remedy for internal seal issues. Very common in Jeeps to see a slipping symptom when the vehicle is cold, once the trans fluid heats up the seals expand due to the heat, Lucas helps revitalize those seals. Axle seals, front seals, pan gaskets, solenoid gaskets, pump seals, they will not be helped by adding Lucas. That being said, it wouldn't hurt anything putting it in there, but I just wanted to clear that up for someone who may get their hopes up.

***Also a note for any DIY'ers, if you are servicing the transmission on a vehicle do not use several types of pan gaskets ie a cork gasket and RTV, I have even seen people use a fiber pack gasket and a cork gasket with RTV in between them. On A604 transmissions we use Cork only. Some people will use RTV only, which is ok if done properly, but choose one or the other. Don't use fiber pack they are junk gaskets that seem to always leak IMO. We have a Wal-Mart down the road from us and they buy the filter kits from Advance Auto and it comes with a fiber pack, and I betcha we fix 2-3 of their services a week.

Originally Posted by Warpaint69 (Post 10398446)

Thanks for the correction and information. Never really ventured into the additives with transmissions. Most of my experience with transmissions comes from Racing and previously 15 years of Demolition Derbying where we abuse the crap out of them. Either the trans is completely roached or rebuilt for the new racing season to prevent the inevitable failure of a power glide.

Originally Posted by J Diddy (Post 10398324)

Yeah, I'm going to need you to dumb this shit down considerably then.

Originally Posted by El Jefe (Post 10398466)

If you have a question, fire it.

Originally Posted by J Diddy (Post 10398471)

at this point I do not, however, I think this weekend my lil brother is going to come down from Warrensburg and help me change it and check it out. He's mechanically inclined, I can turn a wrench solely out of necessity.

Originally Posted by El Jefe (Post 10398464)

Have you seen the new COPO Camaro's? 800 horsepower in a 2013 chasis and they use a 2 speed power glide, one great things about power glides is the abuse they can take. I agree wholeheartedly with you about going through the transmission before each race year (if you are a serious racer).

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 10398168)

My late racing buddy, Rucker Massey was the owner of a top transmission shop, and built racing converters.
He taught me early on, just like you said, all you need is a good clean surface, a flat pan, and a cork gasket. Of course, you can't be an idiot and over tighten the pan bolts or you ruin the gasket.

Some of the older converters had a drain plug, so you could drain the fluid out of the converter when servicing the tranny. This is how they sell trans flushes now, as all of that old fluid is left in the converter by just changing the filter and fluid in the tranny.

Originally Posted by Frosty (Post 10398581)

For my wife's CR-V, Honda recommends doing a drain and fill on the tranny, run the car through the gears, do another drain and fill and then repeat the process one more time (three drain and fills in total). The theory is that most of the old fluid ends up getting flushed and the little bit that's left isn't a problem. It's a pain to do, and seems wasteful, but you don't have to do it very often. It's also easy to do at home, though the filler tube is a bit of a bitch to get to.

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 10398589)

It must have a drain plug on the pan, correct?

Most cars don't, or didn't, and the way to drain the fluid is to remove the pan. That procedure would suck without a drain plug.

That sounds like a pretty good procedure actually, kind of a manual flush and a good compromise between the other two alternatives.

Originally Posted by Frosty (Post 10398605)

Yes. There is a drain plug on the pan, right in front of the car. It's even pretty easy to get to. There is no way to get to the filter, though.

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 10398699)

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When we owned our Toyota, I swore at it a lot about the bastards that made it must have small hands. :D