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DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspchief (Post 12720956)
Yeah a well tuned saw with a good blade makes a big difference.

I grabbed a Freud premier fusion and like it a lot. It's on par with the Forrest woodworker II models but I really wanted to see how those triple grind teeth worked for an all-purpose blade. So far I'm really impressed.

The WWII is probably a more precise blade but more expensive and I didn't know if it would have as much versatility.

Bugeater 02-01-2017 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut (Post 12721132)
So it grabbed more of the board or released it differently.

Pretty much any kickback is going to leave a curved gash because the piece is walking up a round blade (and still getting cut as it's being flung off.

http://chiefsplanet.com/BB/picture.p...pictureid=1827

Here's what the piece I'm talking about did. Unlike yours, mine hopped and that's why it's two cuts, but you can see that hard curve released into a second curve when it came back down.

Did you have a firm fence on the outside? Without the fence holding the right edge in place, I could see that propeller effect being extreme enough to shoot it off to the left. Or maybe if it did it just as it cleared the top of the fence. Kickback does some weird shit.

Yep, looks like basically the same result. I'm sure the fence was there, but I believe it was on the right side, it shot the board away from it. Either way, sounds like that was indeed the culprit.

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 12721005)
I had never heard it called "ice cream wood" before, interesting.

I am not sure if there is any of that hedge growing around here but we had plenty of it in Kansas. Doesn't it have this kind of screwy twisty grain that makes it hard to work with? My brother likes burning hedge because it burns so hot.

The mill a "couple hollars over" only does cedar and oak. I bought 40 1x8x8fts in white oak from them. Holy crap, that stuff is like titanium compared to the cedar.

There is a few more mills around here and I will have to check them out one of these days.

Thanks for your input.

My buddy's dad has near 1000 acres now and a fire spread across a large portion of it. It killed a stand of walnut trees but didn't actually hurt the lumber. The insurance company still paid him for it. He took the money and bought a mobile saw mill and set it up at his old hey barn, then we cut down the walnuts that had died and he used the mill to re-saw them into rough cut lumber of all sizes.

Ended up using the lumber to build a big covered bridge (beautiful bridge; brilliant guy with a masters in math from MIT; designed/built the bridge himself). That sawmill has been a huge benefit for him.

As for the hedge...I don't recall much in the way of twisted grains but again, that mill made light work of just about anything we needed. Admittedly we didn't get a ton of lumber, but we got enough. And yeah, it burns hot as hell again because of the density and the amount of energy it has on account of it. As opposed to something like cottonwood that is soft, burns in a heartbeat and has no energy to speak of.

We used to take hedge down by piling around it and burning it because it was eating saw blades alive. Once we got some of the smaller stuff down and milled though, we convinced his dad to stop doing that and he's started saving it for later use. He's used it to build a 'deck' on the outside of the covered bridge that really couldn't have come out any better.

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 12720978)
It is cedar from the nasty cedar trees that grow around here. We have a mill about 10 miles away.

I sand it with 40 and 80 (belt sander),100,150,220 (orbital sander) then put on sanding sealer and sand it with 220 again prior to applying polyurethane. Thanks for the compliment, like jspchief, it is my least favorite part.

Good old random orbit sanders - easily my favorite 'discovery' of the last 5 years or so. I've all but retired my belt-sander and will just hit things with a hand plane before taking some 80 grit on a random orbit sander to smooth things out.

I realized after several years of hating everything that I stained/finished that the reason I didn't like it is that I just don't care for hand-rubbed finishes. They pull out way too much grain and give that colonial look that I don't like. Once I went to harbor freight and got myself a cheap little $10 gravity fed sprayer, I found that I enjoyed my finishes much much more.

May I recommend General Finishes products? I think they make the best stuff out there and their prices are reasonable. Their high performance topcoat has never disappointed me.

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 02:51 PM

And before the guy that's probably the worst woodworker in the room completely hijacks the thread, lemme make one more recommendation to anyone starting out:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/

Marc Spanguolo is the presenter; excellent videos. Explains things simply and has projects ranging all across the spectrum. He's really helped me figure out things from knockout jointery to dust collection to how to set up a jointer (now using one correctly is a different subject).

There's a ton of great information at his site.

SAUTO 02-01-2017 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut (Post 12721198)
And before the guy that's probably the worst woodworker in the room completely hijacks the thread, lemme make one more recommendation to anyone starting out:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/

Marc Spanguolo is the presenter; excellent videos. Explains things simply and has projects ranging all across the spectrum. He's really helped me figure out things from knockout jointery to dust collection to how to set up a jointer (now using one correctly is a different subject).

There's a ton of great information at his site.

guarantee that is not you.

HemiEd 02-01-2017 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut (Post 12721195)
Good old random orbit sanders - easily my favorite 'discovery' of the last 5 years or so. I've all but retired my belt-sander and will just hit things with a hand plane before taking some 80 grit on a random orbit sander to smooth things out.

I realized after several years of hating everything that I stained/finished that the reason I didn't like it is that I just don't care for hand-rubbed finishes. They pull out way too much grain and give that colonial look that I don't like. Once I went to harbor freight and got myself a cheap little $10 gravity fed sprayer, I found that I enjoyed my finishes much much more.

May I recommend General Finishes products? I think they make the best stuff out there and their prices are reasonable. Their high performance topcoat has never disappointed me.

I have had two of the orbitals burn up on me in the last two months. I was just out on the Rigid from HD because I didn't have any paperwork and they have discontinued them.. I found a great one at the new Menards and they are guaranteed for two years no hassle. I have already done that once I use it so much.

My planer is max 12 inch and after gluing you end up with 16, 20 and 24 inch wide pieces. I hand block planed the first one after gluing but this new Belt sander with 40 does a better job and grabs the dust real well.

Sure, I will check out the finish recommendation, thanks. I just bought another gallon of the minwax polyurethane from HD last week.

Thanks for bringing the knowledge.

bogey 02-01-2017 06:17 PM

Love this thread. Thanks for starting it! I had a nice little wood shop for several years. Used to make furniture as a hobby. :) Love thewoodwhisperer website!

eDave 02-01-2017 06:20 PM

Woodworking has always fascinated me, and alluded me. I know guys who can work wood like Clay. Me, not so much.

"As good as your tools"?

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 12721543)
My planer is max 12 inch and after gluing you end up with 16, 20 and 24 inch wide pieces. I hand block planed the first one after gluing but this new Belt sander with 40 does a better job and grabs the dust real well.

That's really what's kept me from doing any kind of involved hardwood work.

I'm just not good at 'merging' stock. I'm sure it has a name, but when it's time to glue some 2x6s together to form a table-top and then smooth it all out to give it a finished look, I always end up with something with too many high spots or grooves or just an otherwise sloppy look.

Part of the problem is a lack of good bar clamps. Jet makes the top of the line ones and on Black Friday you can find the rare discount on them, but man alive they're expensive. So I make due with mediocre pipe clamps and they just don't hold the pieces together well enough. My planer's a 12 inch Porter Cable and it's a nice machine but I was an idiot and ran a piece with nails in it through there without realizing it and took chunks out of my blades so invariably, when I need it, it's not an option. I guess I could just loosen and offset the blades to cover for the chunks but again, lazy and stupid.

So I'm pretty much incapable of anything approaching furniture grade at this point because anything with a top on it or even a wide side either requires that I buy ridiculously expensive wide stock or somehow affix a plywood (see: shitty) top.

It's like golf and hitting a baseball - I know what I should do, I just don't seem to be able to actually do it.

As for dust collection, I'm kicking myself for not integrating a downdraft table into my bench. Those are miracle workers for sanding. I think I'm going to try a 'hinged' one with legs I can flip down to use and then hook into my dust collection ducts when in use. But again, that goes on the list behind 5 different projects for my daughter that haven't been made in a year, which is to say it will never actually get done.

Buzz 02-01-2017 07:03 PM

Shop classes got me through High School, wood, metal, small engine repair and drafting kept my grade point average up enough to get me into College.

Wood shop made a gun rack, stereo cabinet and corner table.

Metal shop, fixed up a milling machine with new paint and made a part to replace half the missing vice clamp, made a gear shift "Hurst" type for my pickup, welded the bung hole on a 55 gallon drum closed just for practice.

Small engine repair, rebuilt a push mower engine.

Drafting really helped me with my current occupation doing layouts and planning.

All great tools to prepare for life in the real world.

notorious 02-01-2017 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 12720604)
After that I plan on a cabinet from a tree from my yard topped by the 2007 ice storm. It was a black cherry & I had the bottom 12 feet cut into planks. It went into the attic for 3 years to season. Then I planed it all out.

Gorgeous wood.

Found a 22 buried in the tree. Planed off shiny & bright. I will put that in a prominent location for conversation.

The refurbishing has stretched my plumbing & electrical. Learned window glazing. Tile. Now starting on sanding the hard wood floors. Hope to have it done next month.
Do you have any pictures of the black cherry? You make a great point on the seasoning of the wood. I have a stack of oak boards going through that right now .




Friend does some really exotic cutting boards. I had no idea they could be so pretty. :eek:

On those first two cedar chests I wet sanded them with 400, 600 and finally 1000, then buffed them out with my polisher just like a car fender. :D


You basically water popped the grain.

150 grit is more than enough for most woods. If you want to get Maple or Hickory to stain dark, a mixture of 50/50 denatured alcohol and water will do the trick. Mix it, spray it on (after sanding), and it should be dry in 1/2 hour and ready for stain.

Water popping before stain will allow it to penetrate across the entire board instead of just the grain. Put a heavy sealer and a couple coats of good finish (I use only floor finish, obviously) and you will have a perfectly smooth finished piece that is well protected.

I usually don't like to pop oak too hard because the grain is so open. I usually mix more alcohol in to minimize opening up the grain too much. If you open the grain too much you will get what's called bleedback and the product will look like shit.

Mike in SW-MO 02-01-2017 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut (Post 12721195)
Good old random orbit sanders - easily my favorite 'discovery' of the last 5 years or so. I've all but retired my belt-sander and will just hit things with a hand plane before taking some 80 grit on a random orbit sander to smooth things out.

I realized after several years of hating everything that I stained/finished that the reason I didn't like it is that I just don't care for hand-rubbed finishes. They pull out way too much grain and give that colonial look that I don't like. Once I went to harbor freight and got myself a cheap little $10 gravity fed sprayer, I found that I enjoyed my finishes much much more.

May I recommend General Finishes products? I think they make the best stuff out there and their prices are reasonable. Their high performance topcoat has never disappointed me.

Any finish recommendations for hard wood floors?

I've just started sanding.

notorious 02-01-2017 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in SW-MO (Post 12721665)
Any finish recommendations for hard wood floors?

I've just started sanding.

Water/Oil Emulsified - Glitza Infinity II

Oil - Primero Poloplaz. Stay the **** away from Minwax finish. Their stain is excellent, but finish is pure SHIT.

Water- Don't like any of it, but Pallman 96x is the best of the worst. Bona is okay, too.

Sealer- Pro Finisher Universal Sealer. Varathane makes it, and a normal dude can buy it at Menards


I don't know if you can find the pro finishes at a store.

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike in SW-MO (Post 12721665)
Any finish recommendations for hard wood floors?

I've just started sanding.

Not a clue.

https://generalfinishes.com/waterbas...tains-topcoats

Can't offer any kind of recommendation either way as I've never done any kind of flooring. I kept some faux hardwood/laminate flooring for my kid's playhouse, but that's the extent of my flooring ability.

I've never gone wrong with General Finishes and it looks like they have a product but apart from that, I'm fairly worthless.

EDIT: See, Notorious is much more useful than I am.


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