If money were no object, One of my buddys rigs is a Winston Boron IIx spey fly rod with a Galvan T6 reel. I gave that a few flicks and wow! I can't see sinking $1200 into a rig like that though. My luck, I would take a dip and lose the damn thing in the drink.

I'd love to get a spey rod.

As for damaging equipment:
I just shelled out $175 for a Lamson Radius reel. First day I took it out, I ended up dropping it on the pavement and dinging the hell out of it. No structural damage, but it broke my heart. I just bought this beautiful new reel, and it's already got a huge scar on it. Oh well. At least it's broken in now.

Hey, as long as the action is ok like you said, it's broken in. ROFL One thing I have to step up for is a pair of those Simms breathable Gore waders though. Man those things are nice. Breathable being the key word. I'm with you on giving the local shop as much business as I can, but I am also not going to take a beating when I can get the same equipment for around half price. I think this guy will step up to the plate and give me a decent deal. I have a feeling I will be getting the Simms On-line though.

Waders definitely aren't something to skimp on. I fished with cheap, leaky waders for 2 years while I lived in Colorado. Nothing like having cold, numb feet every day you fish.

The Simms G3s are the bomb. I have Patagonia SSTs which I like a lot as well, but there's no arguing with the quality of Simms.

Two quick notes:

1. If you're going primarly for trout longer rods may seem like a great idea when you're at the dealer casting in a 25 foot clear area or casting in your back yard. However, when you're on a trout stream you're going to have trees over your head and brush in every direction. The longer the rod the more you're in the trees.

Getting 9x tippet into a size 18 fly is hard enough while standing in moving water. Don't give yourself extra work.

Plus, a big trout stream averages about 25 or 30 feet across. You really don't need the longer cast that longer rods offer.

2. Unless you can cast with the best of them, stick with WF or DT fly line. Casting a line without taper is like trying sling a peice of twine with no weight on the end across the room.

Oh agree WF is the only way to go, That is some sweet line.

I'm an avid catman, though I like crappie too (ultra-light only!). I generally like minnows during summer, and yellow jigs during winter for the crappie (and occasional cat). For cats in the spring I use fresh (preferably!) or rotted shad, and fresh chicken livers. Summer I use cheese, and occasionally if they're really not biting some dough bait. In fall, I use leeches, and again good ole minnows. During winter I only use shad and river worms.

I've got a question for the experienced fly fishermen. I fly fish, maybe about a dozen times a year in the NY metro area for trout. Once or twice a year I'll fish some private water for bigger fish (trout).

Here is my question - what the heck is the difference between a $30 fly reel and a $300 fly reel. IMO, as inexperienced as it is, the reel - for the most part is simply a place to store your line. It isn't used to cast and trout don't usually take you down to your backing so the drag (for general trout fishing) doesn't seem all that important to me. I've caught trout up to about 5 lbs and never had a fish spool me or come close. So, what's the deal with expensive reels?

A lot of them are a lot smoother. Next time you are in a fly shop, check out a good Galvan, Bauer, Tibor, Abel or some of the other really nice ones. Those things are so damn smooth it will make you piss yourself. Will it catch you more fish, likely not, but damn are they nice and you will feel the difference big time.

The more expensive the reel, generally, the smoother the drag. There is, however, a certain amount of reputation and aethestics attached to price as well. For instance, Lamson Waterworks uses the same drag on all their reels, but prices range from $175-$650. The difference is in materials used for fabrication, complication of design, and just amount of machining.

You're right that, in most situations, the reel is mainly a place to store line. There are, however, some instances where a smooth drag is absolutely necessary. On tailwaters, with very clear water and very small insects, extremely fine tippets (6X+) are often required, especially when you're using a small fly (like a midge pattern) because the tiny fly isn't presented naturally when it's attached to a big, thick hunk of tippet. Now couple those tiny tippets with the fact that you're fishing for, hopefully, some large fish (20"+), and you've got to be able to finesse the fish in. This requires a smooth drag. Generally trying to pull the fish in by hand will result in the fish breaking off.

That's the (good) reasoning for an expensive reel with trout. There's also the fact that some people just like to own nice shit.

Just to demonstrate the difference in reels. Same drag system, but different materials and design:

$595:
http://www.waterworks-lamson.com/ima..._salt_spey.jpg

$145:
http://www.waterworks-lamson.com/ima...on_radiusb.jpg

Major difference. Not sure it's $450 worth of difference, but anyway.

http://www.brookingsonline.com/graph...Clearwater.jpg

$39 dollar Orvis Clearwater Classic and never once lost a fish to line breaking or drag issues. It's brought in some big ones in its day too.

IMHO there are only two reason you need a advanced drag system:

1. Your fishing for bonefish down in Florida or king salmon in Alaska.

2. To show off to your fishing buddies.

Between the flex in an 8 foot fly rod and the elascticity of the line you don't need anything fancy for trout.

Half way home. I just "stole" one of these for $155.00.

http://www.flylogic.com/proddetail.c...tid=1&fishid=0


This thing has a great feel to it. What do you fly heads think? Now the quest for the reel begins. I really like the feel of the Galvan Torque, but I don't really want to drop that kind of cabage on a reel. Any ideas of a good reel to go with this rod without taking out a second morgage on he house?

Couldn't agree more. I've never understood spending money on a reel. I think I spent about $50 on my Ross, and it's been great.

The rod is a different story. Pay for what you get there.

Wish I could help dude. I think you're fishing bigger water than I ever thought about doing. Looks like a nice setup though. :thumb: