Keep the lift kit on the shelf if a kid is going to drive it.

My local mechanic friend says something similar, and I'll paraphrase to the best of my abilities since I don't get all the terminology, that engines today are so tight and that the Ford 4.6 V8 I have probably does better on that thinner oil because of the tight bearing clearances run in those engines. He suggested a full synthetic for better heat distribution but not to change the oil weight. I run Royal Purple already (fully synthetic) so I guess I'll stick with the 5w20 on that.

Thanks.

Thanks for the oil weight recommendations. This car n00b is changing his oil today. Suck on that BRC. I can wash and "work" on my car.:p

I'll take pictures of my professional car detailer spiffing up my car, in my own driveway on Sunday. While I'm in the pool or watching the game.:p

BOR-ING.

So hanging around and in this setting while watching the game is BOR-ING? Welll alrighty then......:rolleyes:

Looks good. I have a pool too that I'll be in after I work on my car today. Not only do I save money but less dickwads have to touch my car. WINNING.

I am actually really enjoying learning more about cars and how to take care of small things. I never knew much of anything before getting this car. I don't mind doing it for something I enjoy.


I know you put a ton of miles on daily driving, what's your ODO at right now?

You have to have a pool if you are going to live in Florida or Arizona in the summer.
Remember, I'm having the people who work directly for Garry Dean do my detailing. They are well versed in his methods of do no harm.
You know I was a complete n00b a couple of months ago. I do love learning how this stuff works. But changing my own oil? Not gonna happen,
2200+. Which got me to thinking......... They say give your exhaust 3000 miles or so to settle in and see where the sound is. I'm just not happy with the sound. It doesn't have that low rumble I'm looking for.

I got my car up on a rack to see what was possible. Our active exhaust sensor is just a few feet from the end of our pipes. Anything you do before the sensor could effect power. Just whacking off a few feet of pipe on the back doesn't seem to be of any benefit. Whacking the resonators that come after the sensor creates a drone. The only real choice is to go full catback exhaust system or muffler delete and risk losing some power.

There are owners doing a muffler delete in our Scat Pack Shaker group and are happy with the results. Here's an example:
https://video-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hv...51&oe=55BD62CC

https://video-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hv...50&oe=55BD6132

Muffler delete and LOSE power? I'd like to see the dyno on that.

Less restriction = MORE power! Hooray!

I changed my oil in less than 45 minutes, first time doing it, and I didn't have to get under the car. Oil extractor for the win and my filter is easy enough for me to reach. Better than some dick at the dealership who is going to touch your car!

Already ahead of you on the muffler delete. My FIL already did that to the Mustang and she's got the low rumble everyone loves. Paired with the Lunati cams she sounds great. Here's a video from last week.

I'm with Hometeam, more HP with a muffler delete. Less restriction.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TJf8M0FJeso" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

There has been a lot of discusssion on this among the "real" gearheads. The basic premise is that the active exhaust needs the back pressure to keep the 485HP. The sensor only opens when it has created enough pressure to fully power the engine.

There are long time gearheads that swear they have lost power after the muffler delete. A lot. There have been guys that posted data proving the lost power. 5HP usually.

Shelby Offers “Disappointed” Hellcat Customers A Deal On A Shelby 850HP Supercharged Mustang


https://www.yahoo.com/autos/shelby-a...528067052.html

Regardless of Shelby’s incentive, the car it’s offered within is mighty impressive — the 850 horsepower Super Snake. Based on a Ford Mustang GT, the Super Snake package adds a whopping supercharger, some bodywork upgrades and a wealth of suspension and exhaust tunings. It really is a totally new car, and while the basic Super Snake arrives with 750 horsepower, to get your free leather you’ll need to option the 850-hp upgrade.



What will that cost? $54,995.


On top of that you’ll need to provide Shelby with a 2015 Ford Mustang GT. Even the cheapest GT retails for $32,300, so the bare minimum you’ll snatch a Super Snake for is a tick below $90,000. In all likelihood, you’d likely surpass that mark, and despite both the Charger and Challenger Hellcats receiving substantial dealer markups, that’s still around $20,000 in additional costs.


However you do get an extra 150 horses, which isn’t insignificant: “(Buyers) now have the chance to buy the car that would have likely left their Hellcat at the last traffic light,” says Gary Schechner, Shelby American VP of Marketing. “And now they’ll be able to do it from the more comfortable seats of their Shelby Super Snake.”


https://s.yimg.com/cd/resizer/2.0/FI...a325025958.jpg
https://s.yimg.com/cd/resizer/2.0/FI...6b7980b071.jpg

Ahhh, customers disappointed that they can't get a Hellcat, got it.

I like my car better. I love the retro look. IMHO, it is way better car than the Hellcat. If someone would give me one of them for free and I couldn't sell the car, I'd pick the Scat Pack Shaker.

It's a "real" muscle car. At the track, the 2015 Scat Pack Shakers can stay within a few feet of the Hellcat up to 90MPH. Am I going to be going faster than that around town?

My garage and I respectfully disagree ;)

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psftra84kp.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pss4uaygj2.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pshqtzvoks.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psobia1rh1.jpg