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If You Were Building a Deck......
Ok I am putting in a 14x12 deck, 48inches off the ground. The guy that is doing it spaced my 4 posts with the following spaces between posts...
post 1 - post 2 = 36 inches...ok post 2 - post 3 = 32 inches...hmmm ok I guess... Post 3 - post 4 = 23 inches...WTF? I get told since there will be a 2 foot cantilever I would not notice it. Also the posts are going to get mounted on 8 inch concrete blocks. Am I smoking crack or does this just not sound right? Let me add I think the only reason we are doing a cantilever on a 12' deck is because he is trying to use the 2 previous concretere piers for the new deck. |
Heh, at least you won't have to worry about the drainage, but you may want to use a bungee cord to hold your BBQ to a deck post.
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Good luck with the project and post some pictures when it's complete. |
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Post 1-2: 36 inches, makes sense, things are clear and going ok. Post 2-3: 32 inches, spacing out a little, 32 to is close to 36 and damn they look about the same distance when you stand back a few feet. Post 3-4: toked, he reversed his already wrong numbers and hence you ended up with a 23 inch space. :bong: |
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No comment.
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If you want a shot at my kitchen floor pitty me now!!!!! |
Seems to me he just eyeballed it.. As for post 3 to 4, is there some sort of angle going on for the deck to where he would do that??
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he's thinking too much as the work progresses
mainly about the size of women you entertain |
Went with the low bid.
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Cantilevering a deck is perfectly acceptable practice - in fact, it's probably even preferred because you are hiding posts underneath the deck.
Placement of those posts doesn't have to be precise so long as the rules of 2 feet support for every one foot of cantilever are followed. Your beam doesn't need 3 posts so I'm confused by that. It sounds to me like he's slightly lazy because he'll have all his equipment out to dig a 3rd piling so how much more effort would be required to dig the TWO required pilings with precise placement? That part confuses me based on your description but it's kinda hard to critique a man's work without the following: 1. Seeing the site or at least a drawing. 2. Hearing the rationale of the other contractor. I don't like to second guess another contractor unless his work is very clearly shoddy and he's giving the rest of the us a bad name. He may have perfectly legitimate reasons that are not being adequately conveyed to you. But if he's doing it wrong you should NOT be required to pay him to take it out and do it correctly. He should do that at his cost. However, if his support is adequate according to code and you're asking him to redo it simply because you don't like it then you should have to pay him. It's hard to say without seeing the site. |
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Well if I knew how to upload pics here I would show you some. And I agree I don't need 3 and he is trying to squeeze in 4. Nevertheless I have 2 posts 1+ foot closer together than 2 others. That seems to just be not right to me. And what about these 8 inch concrete blocks? That seems to be a little excessive as well. |
I glazed over the 8 inch concrete blocks because that completely confuses me. I honestly have no idea what that's all about. If he already has pilings, then why is he installing 8 inch blocks?
This scenario sounds like an endorsement for permits. If dude has no idea what he's doing a drawing and inspection would have solved all these problems. But if you're trying to evade the inspection process, at least have an experienced contractor about whom you would have no concerns or trust issues. If your buddy is moonlighting as a contractor and he can't place the posts properly.... well, you probably don't need me to draw you a map. |
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This whole situation is bunk. If it were me, I'd bring my sledge and start with a blank slate. For the record, Pete emailed me pictures. My reluctance to second guess somebody else is now gone. |
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Your welcome.. |
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Here's the picture of what Pete is describing.
Does anybody else feel confident this deck is going to be done correctly? |
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I'm also guessing that the holes dad dug were wider and deeper than I described them. It's been a loooong time. |
Pete - there's a dozen bits of evidence in the 04 picture that tells me that the guy is clueless. Don't waste another moment of time.
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Well, based on the pictures Phobia posted, never mind.
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Did you hire the CP member who built the dog ramp?? |
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if you're local and you plan on keeping the house a very long time, you should fire the idjit and hire phil to build you a proper deck that will probably last longer than the house... and i can vouch for phobe's work... remember, you get what you pay for, mostly... |
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Appreciate the kind words, GB. I don't care who he hires just as long as he gets rid of this guy. I'm pretty busy. I'm sure he could be worked into the schedule but it's not like I'd just say anything to get the work.
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it's hard to imagine you saying anything just to get a job... and besides, you aren't the one lauding the quality of your work, it's me... however, i am expecting a check for my enthusiastic endorsement of your work... just make it out to go bowe and pm it to me... thanks... :D :D :D |
Why the hell would that guy go about it like that? I can understand (sort of) wanting to use the existing pilings, but those concrete washer boxes are all kinds of screwed up. It wouldn't have been that much freaking work to dig up the old pilings and pour new ones. If he really insisted on using the existing pilings, why not just those concrete blocks with the cutaway for post. I don't think that would be perfect either, but it would be better than that, right?
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The PM check is in the mail. |
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now i can take the wife out to dinner to celebrate memorial day... i wonder how busy mcdonalds is today... |
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I'm just a rank amatuer(emphasis on rank) but even I could do a better looking job than that. My problems arise in overbuilding and using way more materials and making it way stronger than neccessary costing a lot more because I don't know all the codes.
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The exception? Using too many fasteners in framing members, which will actually weaken your structure instead of what you were intending to achieve. |
I get at least one call a week from someone looking for us to complete or repair a bad job. The only way we'll do it is to start over. It rarely happens because....
A) That adds quite a bit to the cost, and... B) The person who is calling isn't inclined to spend much money in the first place, thus creating the problem. I don't know jack about decks but if you really want it done right you should just accept the loss and get a fresh start. Hopefully with a lesson learned. |
is this contractor your buddy that you were price-checking the other day?
thats a shit job. The reason you should put in 36 inch deep footings is to get below the frost line. If you only go a few inches deep, as frost sets in, it makes the soil swell and then subside upon thawing. This will make your deck move up and down, and eventually it will have worked the structure back and forth and loosen everything. In northern climates (like NY, MI, WI, etc. the frost line can be 6' or even more. |
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My point was that any concrete above grade doesn't really count for anything at all. |
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He overshot that by 7" and didn't slope it. Eitherway he is gone and the bids are being accepted. |
so was this your buddy? you never answered that...
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good luck... |
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That being said I know the guy can build decks. I think maybe he got big in the head and such. Either way it sucks really. |
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