Help With a Front Wheel Issue
 

My long commute dictated a new daily driver so I picked up a 2000 Hyundai Accent for $300. I fixed several minor problems with the thing but recently a front wheel issue has popped up.

Whenever I'm driving it makes a loud humming noise from the front wheels. Inside edge of the front tires are starting to wear unevenly. I did a full rotation but the problem continued.

If I turn right the noise stops but a left turn makes it slightly worse.

The car drifts right very slightly when at highway speed.

Bearing? Simple fix?

Thanks fellas.

My first thought was bearing.

front bearing. no doubt in my mind

It sounds like some of the steel belts may have cut loose in the tire itself along with an alignment issue. It could also be a CV joint, or bearing issue.

Very good. Based on the noise disappearing when I turn right, can I assume it is one side or the other?
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Yeah, could be any of these. I had a noisy humming coming from the front of my car and I thought it was a bearing. Turned out to be the tires.

Buy a new car.

That'll fix your problem.

Well I think I ruled out the tires by doing the rotation. Still noise from the front.
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If some of steel belts in the tire cut loose, it can make a nasty hum sound.

Delano, sometimes you can see it. Make sure to really check both the inside and ouside of the tires. If you have a floor jack and some stands, switch the tires front to the rear. If the "sounds moves" to the rear of the car, it's a tire issue, if not, it's likey a bearing, or some other front end part.

Good luck

So you did a front to rear tire rotation, rather than a left to right? If that's the case, it's likely a bearing problem. Jack up the front of the car, put on jack stands and see how much play is in the wheels. Hint, don't drop car on leg. :)

Yes, I rotated front to back. :D

A bearing causes obvious play in the wheel?
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If it's toast, yes it can.

my wife's Bug had this problem; crazy loud humming etc; jacked up the car, and checked all wheels for play; on the last one, I had a good 1/8-1/4" play.
got it replaced, and humming stopped.

Wheel bearing is an initial thought, but diagnosing is a first person exercise.

If that's what it is, replacement is a doable job, if you obtain a few things first.

If you buy a replacement from Autozone, etc., they should 'rent' [ie, pay for, then get a refund on upon return] you a three prong puller. Center that on the spindle, and hook the prongs behind the bearing. Pry it loose by tightening the puller screw with a hefty wrench. Your best friend here is a cheater bar, find a piece of hollow tubing that'll fit over your wrench, the longer the better. I have one that's 5 feet. That'll be the difference between a few minutes of pressure and a 1/2 hour of balls-out exertion.

If you have anti-lock, take care not to damage the sensor.

Thanks.

Found this repair manual:

Hyundaiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6891
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If you’re going to replace a bearing it would be in your best interest to replace them all.
They’ll all, presumably, have the same miles and wear so if one is gone the others won’t be far behind.

That makes sense. Good idea.
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Sometimes the tread just makes noise, but I doubt this is your problem. There was a stretch of road between Emporia and KC that made the tires on the car I had at the time just absolutely scream. The first time I drove on the road with those tires I stopped and looked over my car because I thought it was going to assplode or something. The road changed and it quit.

It's probably the bearing like these guys have said. While you're under there, take a good look at the CV joint boots (I assume it is front wheel drive). Those used to be one of the quickest things to wear. They are (used to be, haven't changed one in several years) a bitch to replace, but since you're going to tear the hub assembly apart anyway, it may be worth doing if they're bad.

This is good advice.

Don't know if that's always the case. By rear one's 'failed' [actually, they didn't pass inspection tolerances, no noise or clumping prior] first. The driver's front lasted over a 18 mos longer. The passenger front is in it's third year post replacing the rears, and passed another inspection last spring.

It's not an expensive proposition to replace all 4, but could prove physically wearying if attacked all at once, especially if your cheater bar isn't long enough to give you mondo torque.

Slackers.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6

Cheaters are easy to come by.

Has anyone said bearing yet? They're actually called ball joints and that's probably your problem.

Also check your CV Axles. If it is a Ball joint then you need to get that shit fixed right away. If it decides to fail while you're driving you're going to be in a heap of shit.

This. The rest are on their way. It's a cheap fix if you can do it yourself.

Blinker bearings.

I jacked that bitch up and there is some play on the driver front.

Service manual suggests removing the entire knuckle and hub assembly. Ugh - strut, tirod, lower ball joint all removed for the press.
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jack your car up without loosening your wheel

put your hands 10 and 2, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? tie rod assembly more than likely

put your hands 12 and 6, push/pull and push/pull, is there any play? there should be and that's your lower ball joint

you can rule CV out because you would hear a click when you turn your wheel


edit:
where is the play, 10 and 2 or 12 and 6?

don't worry about tie rod unless it's 10 and 2

if it is 10 and 2, look at your steering wheel as you push/pull, you want the wheel to move simultaneously when your push/pull...there shouldn't be a delay

Rocked it at 12 and 6. Seems like an 1/4 inch wobble.
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most likely your culprit.

not an assembly on your car IIRC, has to be pressed. you should have someone press it for you unless you have access to the right tools. you dont want to just beat it in with an old socket:)


make SURE the axle is torqued properly or you will be doing it again.

and bearings are tough to diagnose which one is bad by sound. have to kinda just know just from experience and i have had to pull both and swap em before. not often but once in awhile :).
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You should be able to buy the axle with both the inside and outside CV joints somewhat reasonable. You could also elect to just replace the outer which seems to be your issue, but some cars the only option is replacing the shaft.

If I'm understanding the service manual correctly, the wheel bearing (one piece) is pressed into the hub and then a special tool is used to pull it into the knuckle. I was calling the hub/knuckle an assembly in previous posts. The torque setting on the hub/axle has a really wide acceptable range. Then the tirod and lower ball joint are replaced, followed by the brakes, etc. Seems like a pain, but the alternative is probably 400 or more. Amirite?
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Heh, no.
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actually man I have a good shop that charges $65 an hour for labor. they just recently did a shit load of work for me. I'm looking at the receipt and the replace the ball joint was $97.50 labor (hour and a half) and the ball joint was $40. if you want their number PM me

I'm in South Dakota, brah, but thanks.

I've got a few connections with parts people and some good wheel shops. If all they have to do is press the bearings, I'll pay for an hour of labor. 50 for parts and 50 for labor. Not bad.
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By the way you are describing the noise it sounds like a right front wheel bearing. It does need to be pressed out of the knuckle and the new one pressed back in. Tire wear is an alignment issue.

Wait, $300 for a car. That's a sweet deal.

When in doubt...

http://www.tennessee.gov/environment...antifreeze.jpg

you got it.

This, I had to replace a bearing in my car for the same sound.

what do you drive?

I personally don't agree with this. If you have the time and money to just replace all four then go for it, I personally would not.

Hahahah man you are correct. My dad is crazy legit at picking which side, but that's 40 years of experience, but every once in a while you get to pull both sides, how fun :D

yeah i agree with you gojc

i USUALLY get it right too, BUT....

Everyone’s mileage will vary, but it’s been my general experience that after I replace/repack bearings on one side it quiets that side down enough that I start hearing the other side.
And really, unless you’ve got a cracked seal that has allowed dirt and moisture in to foul the bearing on one side or the other, they should all have approximately the same amount of wear on them.
If you’re looking to save money then only replace what you need when you need to. Personally if I have to take my daily driver down for maintenance I’ll do it all at once just because I can’t afford to have my DD down for more time than necessary.

not really the case with hub bearings.

huh? lol

My bad. The quick reply button is right above the "Up" button to get back to the lounge. And I'm on a rough tractor.
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I just don't see that in my experience with wheel bearings, and we do quite a few.