Installing a Car CD Player
 

I got this Sony CD Player that I am installing into a 2000 Pontiac Montana. When I hook it up and turn over the key I am able to insert and eject cd's but get no power to turn it on.

I rewired the wires and I still have the same problem, I dont know what to do. Anybody have any idea what the problem could be, I checked the Radios fuse and its fine.

Help would be much appreciated.

bump .... is there anybody to could help and give me some advice as to what could be the problem.

You are giving it constant power, but your Accessory power is not telling the CD player to "power up".

Check the Acc. power and Constant power to see if you are getting 12-14 volts.

Acc. power should read 12 volts when you turn the key, then go to 0 volts when the key is turned off. The constant power should show 12 volts all the time.

Both wires should be yellow or red. Once you find the constant supply you can do a quick test and split it so that it supplies power to both constant and accessory. If the CD player works, it's a power supply problem.

Just take it to Best Buy.

The red wire should be 12 volts all the time.

The yellow wire should be 12 volts only when the key is turned.

That.

Power wire, memory wire, and ground.

Test it if it's used. Pop your hood put the yellow and red on the positive and the black on the negative of your battery. Make sure it works unless it's new.

are there any fuses i should check that could cause a problem

Very possible. I used to pop fuses if I hit the cig lighter which would cause the tail lights to quit also. Not cool. There might be barrel fuses inline on the stereo wires also

Back in January the factory stereo that was in my Montana went bad, I unhooked it and then hooked it back up and the radio would work but not the CD player so i just took it out and just got a CD Player to hook up and it'll load and eject CD's but wont power on, I dont have a clue to what the problem could be

Get a wiring harness from crutchfield.

throw away your CDs.

Hell no. They sound a lot better than the MP3 garbage people listen to.

You checked the fuse on the radio or the fuse in your car that governs the radio area?

My cigarette lighter caused a short and blew a fuse which killed my stereo. What was odd to me was that if I hit "display" button, the stereo would light up and show the clock temporarily, but it wouldn't fully turn on. So yeah, double check the fuses in your car. Also if the stereo has a factory reset pin hole, hit that, couldn't hurt.

I checked both, both fuses are good.

Yeah screw convenience, get a turntable put in your car. Vinyl sounds a lot better than the CD garbage people listen to.

This. Although I guess MP3s are pretty convenient.
But the last time I went to get a new-release CD at Best Buy I couldn't believe how small the CD area had become.

It's a ****ing car stereo.

I'd bet you any amount of money you couldn't tell the difference between a 320 kbps mp3 vs a CD with the engine running in average traffic.

There really isn't a noticeable difference between 320 kbps MP3s and CDs, and even then it would take a fairly serious system.

Are they typically 320 though, say through iTunes?

Anything worth buying on iTunes you can buy in a lossless format and convert to mp3.

DUH. When did 320 become the MP3 standard?

For normal people that just throw shit in their car and listens to normal MP3 samples, of course they won't hear the difference.


Clarion DRX-9255
AudioControl 4.1
Phoneix Gold MX3i
Phoneix Gold EQ232
Phoenix Gold ZX-450v2 (Bi Amped)
Phonnix ld ZX-500v2 pushing an Image Dynamics IDQ 10v2
JBL 500 GTi mids+ JBL GTi Titanium Tweeters


It's night and day in my setup when it comes to a normal MP3 vs. CD.

LOL
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I spent way too much money on the equipment and way to much time installing it to my standards.

The awesome thing is that most of it sold for what I paid for it, and all of my GTi subs (2 1500's, 2 1000's, and 4 800's) sold for more than I paid for them new.

I kept the 9255. I will never let it go.

I used to rock the Phoenix gold way back buddy.
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It was good stuff.

The gear I liked the most were the M and MS amps. I used a couple M25's and M50's for a while and loved their simplicity.

The ZX series had problems with the potentiometers going out on their EQ sections. I had 2 fixed over the years and finally said screw it and got the MX3i.

I wouldn't touch their stuff today, though. Besides, I don't have time to screw with it anymore.

I have a quite nice set up in my truck, spent too much money on it though

I rocked a couple m100 in the day. Woah buddy
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wiring harness for the car model is key. probably needs to be grounded as well, but you'll get that all fixed once you get the wiring harness. Something about the driver door shutting the cd player off when you open it as well as the car bing sound when you open the door is fed through the speakers. The harness is needed then everything is back to normal. Its weird, but its what I learned from having 4 decks installed in different cars at best buy. All cars required a wiring harness for the aftermarket deck in order to work.

well i found out what the problem is, the red power cable aint gettin no pull, i ran the red cable from the cd player and hooked it to the yellow now i am able to power it on.

this

that is neat i am glad you figured that out that it werent gettin no pull and so you rand the red cable from the cd player and hooked it to the yellow now you is able to power it on

:hmmm:

You aren't getting constant 12 volts? More than likely your setting will reset every time you turn off the car unless you find a new source.


There is a reason you are not getting 12 volts through the constant. Check all of the fuses (there could be more than one fuse box).

I know royr17's problem.

Yep, same here. Sold all my US Amps stuff actually for more than I bought it for. Good times. Sad thing was never getting it finally put together before I completely lost interest and parted it all out.

How do I locate where the problem is why the red wire aint pulling 12 volts constantly ?

Get someone who isn't an idiot to look at it.

I would do a series of tests with a voltmeter starting at the constant power behind your cd player and work back to the battery.

My money is on a fuse being blown that doesn't look blown. I have seen it a bunch of times.

The little metal pieces on a fuse make it easy to test it with a light while its still installed. No need to just look at it. Much faster too
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