we need an auto repair advice sub-forum!
 

happy bye week, guys! :toast:

i have another interesting problem with my 06 toyota matrix...

this is apparently an intermittent problem, but when i turn the key i get nothing, like the key turns but the car seems to thinks it is not in park...

i tried shifting and tried park and neutral and nothing...

so i have it towed to the auto electric shop and the poor guy tries to get it to fail so he could be sure what needs to be fixed...

he never could get it to fail, so i go and pick it up...

we drive to dinner and back home (maybe 20 miles total) and everything's fine...

until the next day when we go out to start it, it not only won't start like before...

now i can't move the gear shift at all... :cuss: :cuss: :cuss:

Is the ignition system getting power? Dash lights and stuff coming on. Or is it that the starter does not engage ?

everything is normal (lights, horn, door window buttons, dash lights) except that when you turn the key it acts like it's not in park, nothing changes, no noise, no dimming lights, nothing...

the auto electric guy couldn't get it to do that for a full day, but as soon as we parked it in our driveway, same thing again... :banghead:

I think we should have an auto/home sub forum. Get rid of something like the tickets sub forum.

I'm not that familiar with those Toyotas but I'd be looking at the starter relay in the power distribution center under the hood or at the starter itself.

Only way to fix that is sink it in a river and report it stolen.

Years ago I had a similar issue with my accord. Turned out to be the alternator.

Add in some aids booster to a full tank of fuel

Years ago we had issues with the neutral safety switches but I have no idea if they still use them on newer cars.

three weeks ago, i would have considered that, but i just bought a K$ catalytic converter (unique to toyotas)... :(

Have you tried antifreeze ?

Brake switch~

how would i test that?

since it won't let me shift the gears now, i've been thinking it might have something to do with a brake switch, but i know a lot more about social security disability claims than i do about cars...

yes, i drank a full glass :BLVD: and it didn't seem to help...

Might try to move the gear shifter around a little and try again. Sometimes my truck will appear to be in park but I'll need to jiggle one way or the other to get it just right for the starter to work.

Good Luck.

Try neutral

Have somsone stand behind car and see if your brake lights work~

Doesnt totally rule it out but mostly.

You can also just replace it for like 8 bucks and 5 minutes of time.

So it doesn't start or you can't shift?

This.

A brake light switch isn't stopping it from starting unless it's a push button start

We'd have an answer if there was a home/auto sub forum.

Mods?!?!

tried that and also shifting it in and out of p, n, d,2 and 1...

but that was before, now it won't even let me move the damned shifter...

both, it started out just not starting/doing anything at all when i turned the key but i could move the gear thingy (it's on the floor)...

now it won't let me even move the gear shift... :banghead:

Ignition switch.

nope, not push button...

more like push car...

no start no go... :(

well, that's got to be a possibility too, i guess...

the auto electric guy said he checked everything but couldn't find what exactly was wrong because it wouldn't act up for him despite trying off and on for most of a day...

Yep.

I guess it's go bo no go.

Sorry.

I agree and good idea go bo

Plus if any of these auto mechanics are in the Kansas City metro area I would rather give them my business as I feel they would be honest and give me a reasonable bill versus taking it to just any auto mechanic and you don't know if you're getting the big shaft or not.

I hated all mechanics until I met Sauto on here.

I'm thinking of flying him in for all the work my car needs.

He's that good.

Or I suppose you could just PM JASONSAUTO - he's kinda awesome at such things...

He's as good as you're ever going to get as far as I'm concerned.

Taking it to Jason first would've saved you a lot of dough.

LMAO LMAO LMAO

would the ignition switch cause the gear shifter to be stuck in park (i can't move it all now)?

Yes. But it could be other things too. Now that it's not starting at all it should be fairly easy to find

well, if i'm not mistaken sauto is located down by the lake somewhere which would be one long tow job...

thing won't start, won't even let me move the gear shift now...

that's what i thought when i had it towed to the auto electric guy i had been referred to...

but the tow truck driver started it up when he got to the garage and drove it up to the guy's door...

then the poor guy couldn't get it to fail so he couldn't diagnose it... :shrug:

of course, as soon as it hits our driveway, it goes on the fritz again... :grr:

I've heard those stories before it sucks doesn't it and those guys are getting paid to diagnose a ghost problem, it sucks. Electrical problems always suck.

yeah, my first electrical problem didn't suck, and that led to my first divorce...

then my second electrical problem shorted out all the time which led to my second divorce...

now my third electrical problem er, marriage, has been pretty good in the suck department so instead of a divorce i'll be celebrating 38 years of wedded bliss next june... :)

Does the car have an alarm. Active alarms disable starting and shifting sometimes.

Also, does the key have a chip in it? If the key has a chip and the transponder doesn't read it wont start.

A brake switch wouldnt stop a car from starting, but a neutral safety switch would.



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Computer won't toss a code? My Toyota had the opposite problem. Starter would crank the engine over when cold starting. Once the engine would get up to temperature the starter would not crank the engine. Bought a new starter. Ten minute job.

I've done a quick search, so I'm assuming that the auto repair sub forum didn't happen, but I'm looking for some assistance for my Command Center in getting the timing adjusted and improve the performance on my 1974 Olds 455. I had this vehicle in storage for almost 5 years, but was able to get it running again by replacing the starter, ignition coils, distributor and wiring, and ignition wiring. My issue now is how it runs. I can get it to/from the stadium ok, but noticed that I have no real power going uphill and think that the timing could be the culprit. I still have points on this vehicle, so going with HEI would be the next step? I'd love to find someone local that could assist.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DMOBsfwVAAAc5eq.jpg

Automobiles have a mind of their own and do this shit on purpose

I’ve never messed with a 455. But on most of the chevys you can adjust timing by turning the distributor. Gotta keep yourself out of the fan belt, but it’s not that hard to change. I’m sure there is a technical way to do it but that’s the farmer way.

I’d guess it is more likely that it is a carburetor problem. I am absolutely NOT a carbeurator guy. Fuel injection for the WIN. But if it’s idling smooth my guess (remember - not a carbeurator guy) you have a vacuum leak and the secondaries won’t open.

You can pretty easily do a visual inspection of vacuum hoses but if you’re going to try and test them you probably need help.

It could also be some gunk in the carbeurator affecting flow. If that’s the problem you can buy some fuel system cleaner. If that doesn’t work then you have to take it apart and clean it. That’s a little tougher.

Yep, vacuum issues are next and I need some help with that from someone I can trust. The idle is good, it’s when I give it some gas that I have issues. Kinda kills the whole glass packs effect when revving the engine.

Lets start with what you have done I see it had sat for a while and after a battery it would not crank?Then you put in a starter and it would crank? Did it start after that? If so how did it run?

I need answers before i can help you further.

I used to sell and teach classes for a major engine diagnostic equipment company. We can fix this.

I missed this the first time, but you said a mouthful! ROFL

Thanks! Yes, it sat for almost 5 years. The pic you see is of the vehicle at a game this year, so it's running. I can get from point A to B, but it feels like it
"sticks" a bit when I rev it up. It's not smooth at that point even though it idles quite nicely. I have a dwell tachometer and have checked that and it appears to be fine. Also, periodically, when I am going uphill, I don't have any real power. I realized doing this via the interwebz is hit and miss, but I have it in Independence and would really like someone who knows about these vehicles to take a look. I really think it's timing/vacuum issues.

Look answer my questions!!


On top of what I asked before what do you mean,Dwell tack looks fine?
does the dwell tack have a nice color, shape, or gauge,
Speak car not gobbly gook

Sorry, I’m not a mechanic, but the dwell reading is supposed to .028-.032 Per my guide and that is at .031 Per the last reading.

Just my .02 but after sitting five years it probably wouldn't hurt to go through the carburetor and replace the fuel filter.

Already did that. All filters are new.

this is a points ign not hei? where is the coil?

keep the 2 cents....It would have stopped and never moved if it was clogged they used stone filters those days.

I'd suggest checking/replacing the points and condensor. Check the spark plugs and make sure the new plug wires are going where they're suppose to. If what you're getting is an engine miss under a load that's where I'd look. Also, after sitting for 5 years I'd look at all the vacumn hoses. EGR valve working?

**** it idles smooth... The ****ing wire routing is not.... :cuss::cuss::cuss:if it were an EGR valve it should do what? not do? What does an EGR valve actually do? I don't think you know....,you're Googling the****out of it, right now, aren't you.




...

Oh that's right, you stayed at a Holiday Inn last night. If you don't think a GM V8 can't idle just fine yet miss under a load you should just STFU right there.
Go find someone else to argue with about....well....all the shit you think you're an expert on.

hey Stumppy catch...LOL https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....CL._SX355_.jpg

Haven't fell for that since I was about 14 years old.

whoa...

Settle down there fella. You aren't being very nice to anyone here.

Hey MrGoodass (wrench with a "H" addiction) How can a V-8 engine with the wires mis-routed spark plug wires run smooth at an idle but miss under a load? This should get interesting, get yourself some serious carbs for dinner, you'll need them.

This isn't totally true. A partially clogged filter, even a stone (brass) filter, will sometimes let the bowl run out of fuel on a longer pull than normal (like a hill, moving that big thing).

And an egr valve stuck open can also definitely cause a very lean condition, which would also cause power issues.

Go try and turn some other thread into a pissing match. The man asked for ideas on what the problem is with his vehicle and I'm trying to help. I really don't give a shit about your 'stayed at a Holiday Inn last night' knowledge.
Personally, my money is on whatever Sauto says.

Did 75s run Points? **** points. If it has points check those. As those wear they can affect timing.

On my irrigation engines I was able to get an electronic ignition aftermarket. I’d imagine something similar is available for the bigger motors.

LMAO :clap::clap:

I say load the thing up with a bottle and see if it helps. It'll either fix your problem or give you the prefect excuse to buy a new engine!

Let the little man who's named after his little cock fix it for you. When Andy is dead and Alex11 is having his number hung on the ring of fame your ****ing truck will still have a vacuum advance that in not doing it's job...

Most did but it's in a breadmobile so maybe not... if the guy put a new distributor, coil and, wires in he should know....

with a rag sticking out of it???

I think this is the direction I need to go first. I've played with the points ad nauseum and considering that I have a few more issues starting and running during the later parts of the season due to colder weather, this will help eliminate those problems and allow me to identify any other areas not previously addressed.

Geez, GD, you have extra $$ for a new engine? I don't!!

That's just it. I've replaced everything BUT the points and considering that lack of experience I have with older motors, I'm just looking for some assistance because there's no doubt that I'm missing something simple that's keeping this engine from performing like it did back in 2009-10.

For me, the win is that it's starting and running consistently again, but I'd like to get about 10 more years of tailgating out of this vehicle before I'm done with it.

monty monty monty

what is base timing? what timing at 2500 rpm?

Do I need to explain timing to you?

Also, it's hardly a Breadmobile. Only 3000 of these Cortez vehicles were ever made and are the same vehicles that transported the Apollo astronauts to the launch pad. Less than 100 are road worthy at this point.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...9-35315%29.jpg

Apparently you do. Again, I'm not a mechanic by trade and either need to be educated or find someone that can help. A quick google search says that I need to have it at 12', but I have no idea wtf that means tbh.

ROTHFLMFAO..... isn't there a repair shop near where you live?... take it to them....


or let a dog (Stumppy) do a Weinstein on the tires and see if that helps

Yes, of course. I have yet to take it to a repair shop, but looks like I have no choice at this point. ROFL

You can let Stumppy work on it but the shop will charge you double if he does:D:D:D:D: