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-   -   Home and Auto Electricians: Chandelier went out but it's getting current (https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showthread.php?t=266895)

chefsos 11-20-2012 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky (Post 9138024)
Get a real meter, a cheap one will work. Check hot to ground, then hot to neutral. Should get 120 both ways.

This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.

UberSparky 11-20-2012 09:42 PM

Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.

mikeyis4dcats. 11-20-2012 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky (Post 9138083)
Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.

if I understood him right, he replaced the dimmer.

UberSparky 11-20-2012 09:48 PM

If he made up new switch with power on may have "smoked" it. That's a professional term. Should not work a dimmer "hot". Instructions will verify this.

UberSparky 11-20-2012 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chefsos (Post 9138058)
This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.

Walmart has a cheap one as well.

wutamess 11-20-2012 09:51 PM

Yeah. I replaced the dimmer.
Had wife use the non contact thing and when I touched the wires it went crazy. When I stopped the connection it died down. I'm not an electrician but I'd touch wires for a split second and it'd go bat shit crazy. Disconnect for 3-4 seconds and do it again. Same results.

The chandelier base is about 20 feet high. Don't have a ladder that goes that high.
Replaced the old dimmer and it basically did the same as the new one. So took the new one back out because the older one was a custom one with heat syncs. Left the old one in there.

Coach 11-20-2012 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky (Post 9138117)
Walmart has a cheap one as well.

You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...

wutamess 11-20-2012 09:55 PM

it's his work #... I do the same thing with tatts. Helps with business anyways.

UberSparky 11-20-2012 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coach (Post 9138124)
You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...

I am sure you are right. If I was better on a computer I would have more posts. I don't even know what PM is.

wutamess 11-20-2012 10:00 PM

Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?

UberSparky 11-20-2012 10:03 PM

With new information I believe your assessment that it is not the switch. Unfortunately most likely problem lies 20 feet up in the box.

wutamess 11-20-2012 10:04 PM

Even if the lights themselves are showing hot?

UberSparky 11-20-2012 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wutamess (Post 9138152)
Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?

It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.

wutamess 11-20-2012 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky (Post 9138170)
It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.

Ugh... so electrician needs to be called with a 20 foot ladder? :mad:

UberSparky 11-20-2012 10:13 PM

In box in ceiling you have a switched hot and neutral. If the tick tester reads at bulb when switch is on and not when its off, it is reasonable to assume you have power. Only remaining answer if this is true(need multimeter to be sure) is loose neutral in switch box, fixture box, or previous device box that is still working but not providing neutral down line to chandelier.


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