46' ford 2n
 

Gets hot and the horse power cuts out and motor stalls. Not mine. Lookin to restore it. Is straight other than the HP/ motor issue. Thoughts?

And other than the rainbow hood.

why not?

cooling system is a minor fix....prolly a half clogged rad.

Bad coil?

that's spark...wouldn't run on a bad coil.

It's free. If I can get it spinning with a new coil or switch its a steal.

awesome

It runs then stalls. Won't run for shit then refires. I asked if it was overheating and the guy said he didn't think so.

could be fuel pump or sending unit...

Check to see if the Distributor is bolted down. Common issue, the bracket that holds it down breaks loose and the damn thing jumps timing. That would cause the problem.
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Definately could be the coil. When some of them go bad they fire fine when cold but then get hot start misfiring then stop.

Usually old oil filled ones which that should be.

Cheap part to replace to check.

awww, didn't know that....thx!

...I replaced my stock dist with an HEI

I've seen that with cracked coils or distributors in old tractors, sometimes vapor lock when it's hot does the same thing.

Yea HEI is the way to go. Easy swap and no more points. :thumb:

All I know is when I was at your house you were rebuilding a van and parts were everywhere. I remember thinking this guy is a guru when it comes to engines. If we lived in the same town I would drive you nuts everytime I had truck or car trouble~

So. Do some of you guys remember them when they were new?

No but I remember when they were not that old~

Probably gotta get a J weld on that gurder scooter and maybe add some lube to that rear igniter coil.






I don't know shit about cars...

Could be, sounds like vapor lock too.
Fuel boils in fuel lines and arives at the carb as a vapor, carb is built to meter fluid so no worky. Move fuel lines as far away from heat sources as possible.

Here, this'll help you brush up on your "baffle them with bullshit" auto lingo.
You're welcome.

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Based on the limited information and assuming it runs smooth at start up I would guess distributor cap or coil.

Does it run rough when it does run? When you turn it on then off does it run on or backfire? Sometimes if the carburetor is not tighten down or the gasket is bad (air leak) it will fire up, run rough, the idle with fluctuate then it will die as the engine heats.

Basically, the problem is either with the distributor or the carburetor. When a car sits the coil and plugs can be damaged from condensation. Fuel lines, filter and carburetor will get a varnish build up. Sounds like basic cleanup work will fix it. Of course, if you want to get real negative it could be a cracked head.

Starts and runs with no issues til approx. 30-1 hr of work.

Not good, sounds like a cracked head. If it was a distributor or carburetor issue it would cut out in minutes and be much more dramatic. A problem with the head will let you drive the car around town like everything is fine until it gets too hot, usually 30 minutes to an hour. I suspect you have an engine that needs a new head.

Just the opinion of a weekend mechanic that had to rebuild the head of a mustang this year. Same exact symptoms.

If it's not overheating it's not the head.

Vapor lock or fire. Easy to check...when it dies have x factor stick his tongue where the coil wire goes...
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LMAO
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I'm gettin it then. Gonna get her sparking and break her in half. Learned to drive on the N series. And with two I can have tractor races. Easy transfer over to hei?

Nice touch. :thumb:

Just get a CDI box, like an MSD, and use the stock points to trigger it.
Because you’re taking the current handling load off the points they’ll last nearly forever and you don’t worry about dwell because the CDI box will be controlling that electronically. This setup is sufficient if you’re not going to go spinning a bunch of R’s. I’ve you’re planning to twist it better than about 5K points will bounce, scatter spark, and you’d need an electronic dizzy for triggering.

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