Home brewing
 

Anyone do it? Any good suggestions for a starter kit? It looks like it's about the same cost you would pay for decent beer from the store is this accurate?

I guess it depends on how many case you're buying.

I don't make my own beer but have two good friends that do. I have asked what it would take and both have said a decent starter kit starts around $120. The payoffs are good though. In the long run it's much cheaper once you get going with it. That is assuming you are able to make decent beer.

I've been brewing on and off for about 15 years. I've been able to make better than average beer. I don't know that I save money as much as I get better beer for my money. I cannot make beer for the same as I can get a 12 pack of something like Miller Genuine Draft, but I can make the same amount of beer cheaper than I can get a case of Samuel
Adams (and I think my beer is better than that because it is made to my tastes).

I make better beer than one can buy, however, nowadays, one can buy very good beer.

Depends on what is important to you.

I want the bang for my buck lol

Who cares if its cheaper or not?

You are making beer!!

I need to get busy, its been a couple of years since I've brewed.

Good point.

Is it hard to make a decent batch?

This! I just kicked the WORTHLESS flat top range to the curb and bought a duel fuel range. Gas on top, with an electric oven. I will be brewing again VERY soon.

Not at all. The most important thing is to make sure your equipment is properly sanitized.

Have you brewed before? Honestly, a Mr. Beer is a great way to find out whether or not you wanna continue, and runs about $30. Visit the beer forums and you'll see a ton of people that got interested from the Mr. Beer brew kit. It's certainly nothing to be ashamed of.

Once you make a few batches and get you feel for it and whether or not you will stay interested, you can then upgrade.

I have wanted to do this for a while
I do like beer
I really have no choice

my last name is Brewer

There is a great brew shop in my home town:

http://www.thebeveragepeople.com/ (get their catalog!)

I have dabbled in home brewing for quite some time, and the above people will answer questions and are honest and have great equipment and decent prices. Also they will ship to anywhere.

Here is a good starter kit:

http://www.thebeveragepeople.com/product330.html

They have cheaper kits, and better ones...

Get a couple of books too....check out their books section.

Good luck and happy brewing..If you like to cook and you like beer, youll LOVE to brew.

Peace

I have thought about this for awhile now. A friend on another forum told me about this place.

http://brewgadgets.com/

Looks like I can get:
Brew Basic Equipment Kit - $70
Brown Ale (or other beer of your choice, they have lots of good choices - makes 5 gallons) - $28
48 bottles (12oz) - $26
Shipping - $25

Looks like I can get started for around $150. Am I missing anything.

Don't forget the bottle caps. I didn't see them listed.

Oh, and if you don't mind spending another $11, I'd recommend an auto siphon.

The Beer kit comes with bottle caps.

What's an auto siphon?

Never mind, I found it. Good idea.

It's far more enjoyable to obtain the bottles by drinking beer, but they don't look as pretty.

Now I'm thinking of how many bottles of beer I drank over the years. If I had just kept them I might have enough to start my own brewery. :D

OMG, do NOT buy a Mr Beer kit.

Start here:

Crap... they won't let me post a link... Google "how to brew.com". That is John Palmer's home brewing site.

Read that condensed version of Palmer's book, which is the ABSOLUTE BIBLE for home brewing. Then, buy the hard copy of it. You will thank me later, for both saving you a bunch of money and being able to make great beer at home.

I have had my own original recipe win an award (Brewer's Award, best in show) and it was brewed in a commercial brewery. This was from brewing with grains, not kits, but Palmer's book is the ONE and ONLY place to start.

You read his book, which you will not outgrow, you will make very good beer that will impress others, you will avoid common mistakes, and save money in the long run.

Don't read this, buy a Mr Beer, and I guarantee your beer will suck. Do what I suggest, I guarantee you will brew a decent beer on the first try. The more you do it, the more you learn, the better the beer.

Do you know the difference between a lager and an ale? Do you know that lagers require several different levels of refridgeration temperatures while it ferments, while ales are happy at just one temperature?

It's all in Palmer's book, and it's a fast easy read. Start with his web site. Then buy the book. Thank me later.

I used to home brew...gotten away from it for the past year or so. Always loved the beer. Do a search, there is at least one thread where guys discussed this extensively a while back. Love the home brew....doesn't save any money but it's the idea that your making your own brew. Especially when it turns out GOOD! lol

Here's the one I made when I first got started brewing. Lot of good tips in there.

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showt...highlight=brew

Here's couple of more I found.

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showt...highlight=brew

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/showt...ight=home+brew

And here are a couple of home brew message boards I frequented when I first got started.

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/

http://www.brewboard.com/

First, I am not buying a Mr. Beer. Its a kit but that's not what its called. Second, I want this to be fairly simple. I don't want to get started and then find out I need something else. If it is too complicated, I will get frustrated and give up. Last, it would help to find that book if you could give me the title.

http://morebeer.com/

Handy store site that I’ve bought some gear and brew ingredients from.

I believe someone else mentioned Mr. Beer in their post. The book he is referencing is the How to Brew hardcopy of John Palmer's introductory website http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html There are tons of good books on the topic to help you along, but the howtobrew website is really all you need right now to get you started.

Additionally the kit you picked out will work great, agree on adding the auto siphon. You might check this kit out too http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewi...pment-kit.html same kit just $10 cheaper. They have a nice brown ale kit http://www.midwestsupplies.com/big-river-brown-ale.html if that is what you prefer as well.

You will still need to pick up a 5 gallon brewpot. Harbor Freight and other hardware stores usually have cheap stainless steel ones that will get you started. Also if you want bottles, check out a recycling center or your local bar. Usually you can find them, or ask them to set some aside for you. No need to pay $25 plus shipping.

If you need any other tips or have any direct questions just let me know. I am also a award winning brewer and have been brewing for 3 years now.

Great info. Thanks.

I do have another question. Can I just save my bottles from what I bought at the liquor store and sanitize them? For instance, I have Sam Adams, Boulevard, and Boulder Beer varieties in my garage mini fridge now.

Yes and No. Sam Adams and Boulder Beer are pop tops and can be resealed. Boulevard is a twist top and can't be resealed with the capper that you will get.

When I was bottling, I would just throw a bunch of used bottles in a big tub with water and oxyclean free and let is set for a couple hours, then rinse and they should be good. Just sanitize and fill when ready.

I'm brewing my next batch this Sunday. This will be my third batch and I'm still using a kit until I get the routine down a little more. I can't add much to what's already been said, but sanitization is the most critical item....the rest is a breeze IMO. It's like chemistry lab, but when you're done, you have beer! :toast:

Yep, a good sanitizing solution is a must for home brewing. Especially when you reuse bottles.

Also, after you drink them, make sure you rinse out the bottles with water if you plan on reusing them. Otherwise you can get mold growing in the bottom, which is a pain to scrub out.

i'm hopeful to get a starter kit/rig sometime before summer.

it would be good to learn. If we are ever in apocalypse mode, the knowledge of how to brew good beer would be extremely good.

ROFL

Do you know why I find this comment amusing?

Its because I thought the exact same thing. :D

Yeah, that's when the Oxyclean really comes in handy. Let it soak in moldy bottles for a bit and it is good to go.

Also, would highly recommend picking up some StarSan. It is a sanitizer that is no rinse and only requires 30 seconds of contact time. I save a gallon in milkjug and reuse it over and over again. One bottle can last a very long time if you reuse. "One step" is serviceable, but StarSan is awesome stuff.

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it doesn't seem worth the trouble otherwise with the wonderful uprising of mico breweries and smallers breweries that are producing fantastic beer and most liquor stores carry them now.

I would love to have a still....

It's been worth it for me. If you want to really understand beer, understand how and why different styles taste the way they do, then brewing is a great way to gain that knowledge.

Plus, right now with my setup and bulk grain buys through my brewing club, I can produce a 5 gallon batch for as low as $15 (around 48 12oz bottles). If I want to make a higher gravity brew or IPA with alot of hops it will cost more, but still fairly cheap. I have spent that much on a 6 pack of good quality microbrew. Also, I can imitate a any brew I want and make beers that are particular to my taste preference. Cloning brews that aren't available in my area is also a big plus for me. I have a Bells Two-Hearted Ale recipe that is damn near spot on.

The Bell's Two-Hearted clone recipe is my absolute go-to.

Oh rly?:hmmm:

Its all grain, but I'm sure I could convert it over for you. The only issue I would have is I use Vienna as a part of the grain bill, and I don't know how you would get that flavor with anything but all grain or partial mash. Any suggestions Reaper?

You could still do it, it would just be a little bit different. I just love the flavor that Vienna gives to beer, its probably one of my favorite malts.

All Grain Recipe (note this was modified off of a recipe on Homebrewtalk, so can't take all the credit):

Grain:
10lbs 2 row
2lbs Vienna
8oz Carapils
8oz Crystal 15L
Mash at 152 for 60mins

Hops:
.75oz Centennial 60mins
.25oz Centennial 45mins
1oz Centennial 15mins
1oz Centennial 5mins
1oz Centennial 1min
1oz Centennial Dry Hop - 7 Days

Yeast:
Safale 05


To switch to extract the grain bill would change to something like:

7lbs Golden Light DME

Steeping Grains:
8oz Carapils
8oz Crystal 15L
Step at 155-160 degrees for 30mins

Everything else would stay the same.

That reminds me. I need to learn how to grow tobacco so I can roll my own cigars. Another critical skillset needed in the post apocalyptic world IMO.

I don't have any suggestions for replicating the recipe using extract. I always brew all-grain, and I actually learned using all-grain. I don't have one lick of experience brewing with malt extract.

I did about 5 batches of extract before switching to all grain. I haven't done a conversion in about 2 years. I had to look up what temp to steep at and the grain to extract conversion calculator, lol.

What do you guys think about this?

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It's ok, but I'm not willing to bleach my hair first.

:LOL:

Well at the end you will have beer, but the quality will not be that great. I have watched these videos in the past, to me, there are just a few things that are simple fixes that he could do to result it a much better tasting beer.

Few notes:
Your equipment needs to be sanitized not sterilized. Sterilized is a much higher threshold than is needed.

That can he uses is the prehopped malt, which I have never used myself, but can only assume is not as fresh tasting as using actual hops. But again, I have never used. I have no idea if it gives you any flavor or aroma at all. I guess I just don't like the idea of not being able to control my hop additions.

Corn sugar as a large part of your fermentables is usually unwanted because it can produce a cidery kind of flavor to your beer. If you just use all malt it will result in a much better tasting beer.

I have no idea what that head adjunct stuff is. Never used it. The carapils is what I have always used to help with head retention.

If I remember right in the second video he lets it ferment at a very high temperature, 80 degrees or so? Bad news, this can throw all sorts of off-flavors. Behind sanitation, controlling fermentation temperatures is one of the most important aspects of brewing.

Again, the end result will be beer, but if you already have a taste for good beer, just doing it at a little higher quality will really make a big difference.

He said between 70-80 degrees. I think he mentioned being closer to the higher end of that range (78 degrees?). What temp do you think he should have used? I am assuming this also depends on the type of beer. Correct?

It does depend on the beer, but for the most part 65-68 degrees is pretty optimal for most ales. If you ferment that high (78 degrees), it will be faster, but depending on the yeast used, the off-flavors that will be thrown is pretty large; fusel alcohols and unwanted esters are the main ones. I have fermented high on accident a few time and know first hand how it changes the flavor.

I also can't remember how soon he bottles after taking it off the yeast, but if he says a week, just know that although the yeast may be done fermenting they still are not done doing there job. Leaving it on the yeast for just an extra week or so lets the yeast clean up after themselves and allows for a much cleaner tasting beer.

Sorry, but if you brew the way this guy on you tube did, your beer will be lousy. NEVER, EVER use sugar in the brew pot. It will make the beer cidery and hot tasting. This is an old Charlie Papazion thing, and it just is not done if you want good beer, period! There are times that you can add sugars to the fermenter, like maple syrup, but this guy should have used more extract, not sugar. You use sugar as a primer when you bottle it to get it carbonated, but that's it.

Yeast needs sugar, it "eats" it and produces ethyl alchohol as a by product. Sugar is too simple a molecule for the yeast. The more complex sugars in the extract derived from malted barley is the only way to go. Guy should have used another can of extract instead, and pre-hopped extract is something a strongly recommend against. The oil in hops that adds bitterness to the sweet taste of the wort makes for a balanced beer. These oils are volitile, meaning they can break down and lose their flavor and bittering power.

I didn't see part two, but it sounded like this guy did not cool the wort enough. Did he get it down to 75 or less?

I thought I gave you the info... I said Google "howtobrew". That will get you to Palmer's site. There you can read part of his book. He will steer you away from bogus methods, like adding corn sugar to the brew pot. This guy is a hack as far as I am concerned. He is the classic example of the guy who brags about home brewing and everyone else thinks it sucks except for him.

I can lead you to water, but I can't make you drink. 1moreTrich lnows what he's talking about, but you will never get the info you need to make good decisions here until at the very least you take the intiative of visiting Palmer's web site. If you aren't willing to look into this on your own... don't bother.

The name of Palmer's book is the same as his web site. How to Brew. Just Google it man. I don't have enough posts here to post the link. Most good starter kits include Palmer's book, as I previously told you.

I repeat: If you want to brew good beer, you need a good guide, and that is Palmer's book. If you are as lazy as this guy in the video, your beer will be as lousy as his is, and trust me, it's lousy.

Any of you ever make mead?
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she's ;)

Oh, I plan to check out that website. Just haven't had a chance. Most of my posts on this have been from when I'm at work (heh, slow time of year). And I don't think our monitoring software won't allow me to go on a site like that. I simply haven't had a chance to look at it at home. But I will for sure.

Holy crap! A chic that can home brew. :thumb:'

Edit: Perhaps you should not have given that info. Now you will have a ton of CP males bugging you. :p

Um... married? :D:hmmm:;)

ROFL


See what I mean, 1moreTRich?

It's cool, I already said it in one of the other many threads I posted in, lol

And yes, I am married.

:crybaby::sulk::BLVD::harumph:

idk why a fella couldnt just get a 55 gal. drum that seals and a burner if he wanted to make enough to last.

It needs to be food grade stainless that has never been used for anything else.
Thing about brewing is if you take, say, a drum that once held pickles all the beer brewed in it would take on the taste of pickles.
All my brew gear is dedicated to nothing but brewing beer for that very reason.

TTIWWP

:D

But how would you carb it?

Lots of dextrose? Or malt or whatever?

idk my dad used to make wine and malt for his whiskey in 55 gal. drums dont remember a complaint.

OMG! Like, a real girl? I've only seen those outside my window.

What did the drums hold before being used for brewing?

idk he bought them from the farm and home place. I dont think they had held anything before hand.

Ah, good. What part of the process was he using them for, boiling or just fermenting?
If he was just fermenting it’s probably not such a big deal that it be food grade stainless. I know besides stainless people ferment in plastic, glass and copper.

fermenting the mash and wine.

i didnt ever see them make the actual whiskey. It stank and was dangerous.

I'm a year or so away from making mead.

We got our first hive last year, and we'll see how the little buggers do. Flying good today.

Any of you Springfielders see a swarm of bees, lemme know. I'll gladly take em safely away.

I spoke with a guy who used steel drums for his mash tuns and boil pot. I think he used one for fermenting too, but I can't recall. I also don't remember what they were originally used for either. The problem is finding a burner that can deliver the BTU's to get that much wort to boil. Then you would have to have a fairly complicated wort cooling system, a high temp march pump, high temp food grade tubing, counter flow chiller, etc.

When you get into batches that big, those are small brewery batches and generally requires regular commercial brewing equipment.

It is also illegal to brew more than 100 gallons per person in the household with a limit of 200 gallons per year. Not that anyone cares..

that's badass. I think I'm going to give it a try. Probably get some good honey from Whole foods or something to use.

this is an awesome thread. I've been thinking about giving this a whirl for awhile and admittedly will probably start with a mr brew kit---just to see if it hits my fancy. I'd rather do that than drop $175 on garage filler.

Brew with a MR Beer and you will never want to brew again.

Yes, I knocked out a couple of batches of blueberry. Very, very good.

I've been doing a little reading on howtobrew.com. I have a decent idea of what I need to get started. But I'm trying to figure out something. The kits I'm looking at have one with a carboy and one without. The one with the carboy (has a few other things, as well) is about 30% more expensive. What is the benefit of a carboy?

oh trust me, i am an expert in the home brews. i make a cup like you wont believe. just ask me mate

bump

That sounds real good. Could you post your recipe, and any tips if you get time?
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