It's about as exciting as watching paint dry.

Thanks for the Glidden tip! We have essentially two individual paint companies out here: Frazee and Dunn-Edwards. All of the paint contractors I've interviewed over the years prefer the Dunn-Edwards and so far, it's help up extremely well, even the exterior (which was painted 9+ years ago and hasn't faded in the strong SoCal sun).

Anyway, both Frazee and Dunn-Edwards are expensive, so I generally stick with what's recommended.

Lol. I painted the whole interior of the house a couple years ago.
I absolutely hated every ****ing minute of it. Never thought about killing my self either before our after that but was contemplating it then. Lol( not really but you ger it)

When the addition was ready to paint I hired a guy who sucked, fired him and was going to tackle it and a car got towed in, the guy was broke I fixed it for him and we got to bullshitting around, lo and behold he was a painter. Trade out ftmfw
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Nice!

Yeah, and I'd think about killing myself if I ever tried rebuilding an engine with my Craftsman socket set. Pretty much any task can be frustrating if you don't know what you're doing and you don't have the right tools. There's only one brand of brush I will buy, and I only use lamb's wool rollers. Anything else will make you tear your hair out.

I know. Lol.

Actually anything that had to do with wood butchering makes me feel the suicidal twinge...
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Yeah, I used the Gardz stuff and it worked great. It seals better than a regular primer. Then you can mud over it and taper it perfectly in with the rest.

STILL the same ****en idiot "wanna be know it all" you'll always portrayed your self to be" Stick to General contracting and let the PROFESSIONALS answer this question Philamina

Hit it with a quick set powder mud like CGC sheetrock 90 or the USA equilivant, , level it with a coat of mud, then skim it wih a thin coat of mud . Lightly Sand in between coats by the way.

While Phil is "trying" to answer your question, he hasen';t a ****en clue.
Once the paper is exposed, there's really nothing you can do but build it up to surface level.
IF he ACTUALLY knew what he was talking about he would see from your pic, the gypsum ISNT expoced, even if it was, it wouldn't matter.

WHY??

Simple, today's "mud" products are calcium based, as opposed to "pre" 1960 Morter based plaster products, which would require a bonding agent, and multiple bonding coats
.
Prime, then cover it with a "wiz roller" of finish, second coat it with the same technique, then finish the whole wall.
depending on your choice of finish I'd recommend Benjamin Moore "Ben" series, or Aura.

IF you were to follow Philimeanas advice you'd be re-gyprocking the whole dam wall. But then general contractors rarley know what the **** is going on anyways

Any further questions feel free to ask me through email jeffchildsceilingmaster@gmail.com

Lol I don't have comment on this post other than the reference to quick set mud. A few years back I bought some shit to level out some damage from removing wallpaper. It set so god damn fast I couldn't get it from the bucket to the wall without it setting up. Crazy stuff.

Can I get some from ya?

Thats why you hire a pro, who's used to working with it.
I use 20, 45, and 90min set up compounds buy the bag full every week.
A slow week for me is ONLY 15 OR 20 (30lb) bags

That's nice info, Dude. But wasn't your response a little harsh? Or am I missing something that happened between you two?

Glad you're doing well.

the KING of harsh chastising some one else???...Go back to hollyweird

If you're going to be an asshole, take some of that 20 and shove it up your stupid ****ing Raider ass, you ****ing reeruned, drunk, drugged-out Canuck.

Still hittin' the pipe?

yep,,,,,havent changed a bit have ya...stone cold sober by the way...How about you?