Car Care and Detailing Thread
Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.
While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot. I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b. I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things. Some of the things already on my list are: 1. Not sure if everyone recommends lambswool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do? http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water. http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt 3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB 4. Car Wash http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax? I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing? http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front. Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend. |
I like Griot's Garage stuff, and if you want to learn on YouTube there's a show Drive/Clean that's good, and The Chemical Guys have good stuff too.
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You do have to wash a black car a little more often but depending on your eye for detail its all of the micro-scratches they get that are visible with that color that will drive you crazy. If the car was a perfectly cared for as it seems you will notice everything.
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Man, I buy whatever is on discount that is made specifically for black cars. Getting ready to get the convertible out next week. w00t BABY
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What's the collective opinion on Armor-All? I've heard that it's bad, that once you use it you have to keep using it to make your stuff look clean/shiny. Thoughts?
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http://www.autogeek.net/ is easily my go to place. They have a lot of product info on their site and customer service is great. Whenever you order from them don't forget to add a free sample. They have somewhere on there that there is an order cost threshold but if you select on they will give it to you.
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That's why I was trying to find a company that sells a package deal for products that others say work well. |
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Have used 303 Aerospace Protectant for years and it is really great stuff and lasts a long time. Ace Hardware used to randomly carry it but easier online. |
Just purchase an unlimited pass to a full service car wash lol 'Murica!
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I'm in need of a polisher and their car care packages look decent. http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...Picks&refType= |
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NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Autogeeks site kind of has too much stuff going on its a overwhelming. Once you get more familiar with types of products is a little more manageable. Have had good luck with their Blackfire and Wolfgang offerings that are meant to be easier to use for us weekenders. A package deal can be a nice way to get started but they can have stuff you wont use very often or at all. |
Since it is already in nice shape maybe start with washing. Two bucket method like you said with grit guards. The orange 5 gallon ones from home depot work well if you don't already have some laying around. Use only really good microfiber towels to dry and make sure you got all of the dirt off before drying (I miss spots all the time).
This may be a good watch. Some of the more detailed stuff might get tossed out the window for a daily driver but this guy is really good. Well worth your time to watch his videos are on more general topics like this which give a nice baseline. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/X0Sqi1lAj1A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I use a sponge for washing and a urethane squeegee for drying.
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Depend on how anal you are and how much you want to spend. With a black car, I'd have the paint FULLY corrected, 700ish then fully wrapped in xpel self healing wrap. Around 1500. Seems like some coin but it will always look pristine with almost zero effort and its protected from Rock chips, bird shit and just about anything else except a crazy ex.
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Have heard of the newer clear bra tech but haven't seen it in use (or noticed that a car had it which I guess would be the point). Would be curious if it gives a different look. |
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Although this is pretty sweet in the video! If the paint is fine and doesn't need to be fully corrected, you think it costs about $1,500 to have someone do the Xpel wraps and you are saying do the whole car, not just the bra area like many people do? I just looked online and many say $3k is the minimum that would cost so I am surely out on that. Would think about it for the front end area but many people say if your car is exposed to lots of sun, this will be, it has the risk of oxidizing and turning yellow. Do you just wax/polish over this area like you normally would a car without this wrap? <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/T6oEgfdwUU0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
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But anyway, see this is what I mean! SOO many products out there. I suppose as long as I am doing something it's better than nothing. |
And it we are being honest with ourselves it's a nice car but a 10 year old Mustang, not a Porsche.
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I do the clay bar/wax once a year, then just regular washings and dry with a chamois. Leaf blower works good too, if you have a good wax job the water will roll right off the paint. I also use Meguiar's trim detailer on all the black plastic, usually have to do that a couple times a year. One thing with the clay bar is you always want to put some towels or newspaper on the ground where you're working that way if you drop it, it won't get any small pebbles/rocks in it. You don't want to be rubbing that shit into your paint. |
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I wax our current cars 3 times per year so I don't mind putting some work in. I never let them get to the point that water isn't beading over the whole car. Thing is we've only ever owned light colored cars. Hell, mine is silver and sometimes when waxing it's hard for me to tell where I have the wax drying as the haze is similar in color to the car. LMAO. It's this whole black color that I know will show swirls. Not that I won't mind a few because I know they'll happen but I'll have to be a little more detailed/patient with how I wash and wax it. I have an electric leaf blower and never thought about drying with that. I would think that would still leave some water spots but I haven't tried it. |
I have not used a clay towel so I don't know anything about it. I will say, you will be shocked at how much longer your wax job lasts if you clay bar (or towel?) it first.
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I have the Griot 6" and 3" polishers, very affordable for the do it yourselfer, not to mention both come with a lifetime warranty. Before you polish you'll want to clay your car. Some also do a wipe down with deluted alcohol to remove old wax. I found a safer means with Griot Garages Paint Prep. As far as polishes there are many great options. An affordable pair is meguiars 105 and 205 or the Wolfgang twins. I personally like the Menzerna line of polishes. Their FG400 is a diminishing polish that will correct and also polish out to 95% in one step with a lake country flat orange pad with decreasing pressure with your passes. That last 5% are people who desire that true show car finish and the Menzerna SF4500 with a lake country flat grey will get you there. I've also used a white flat with the 4500 with great results. The thing you'll learn about pads is there really isn't a right or wrong pad. You just always want to start with the least aggressive pad and cutting compound to achieve your goal. I recommend plenty of testing/trial and error. Lake Country and Buff and Shine make good quality pads. After I'm through polishing I wipe the vehicle down with CarPro Eraser to remove left over polish residue and oils. The best glaze on the market for those with fine swirls and don't wish to do paint correction is Chemical Guys Black Light. My favorite sealant is Black Fire Wet Diamond. With 2 coats of Pinnacle Souveran wax on black or red paints it gives deep shine and looks super wet. Wolfgang Fuzion wax is also amazing on dark paints, it lasts a little longer than Souveran, but the $195 price tag is steep, you do get 1 free refill. I dry my Camaro with a Metro Vac Master Blaster blow dryer, they're pricey, but reduce chances of swirls. The best quick detailer spray is made by Adams Polishes. Something else you want in your arsenal is plenty of microfiber towels and it's wise to color code your towel to specific steps in your detailing to never cross contaminate products on your finish. Here's a list of places I visit and hit sales.
Auto geek- auto geek often has sales, but their shipping is pricey want to reach their free shipping with your order. Detailers Domain- I've done a bit of business with Phil and he's always willing to offer me 15% off on any of my orders. Detailed Image Adams Polishes Superior Car Care- Always get 10% off with SUPERIOR10 code Auto Detailing Solutions Auto-Topia Car Care Detailing.com |
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There is a place called Rise and Rinse here in Overland Park. I have found them very awesome. I got the season pass so I can drop my car off over my lunch and then I can sneak in a quick meeting at a coffee shop. When I am done with my lunch my car and the inside look great. I would recommend a set up like that if you are on the go all the time and can't really afford to take time out of your day to clean.
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Anyhow, I've always used Mothers cleaners/compounds and Meguiars wax. |
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I just have my body shop buddy take my DD every other Friday and hook it up.
Works out great. |
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I like the ICE products, both for their gel wax and their interior cleaners. The gel waxes let you do a monthly wax and another one that's a spray on lighter wax for in between.
The interior cleaner can be sprayed on anything from plastic to leather. Not that greasy film like the old stuff. Smells good too. |
i use Meguiars products on my ride.
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I don't get too hyped up by brand names.
Clay bar of any ilk will work wonders. My wax of choice is Colinite. It's AMAZING. http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liqu...ywords=car+wax Shine is amazing and it's tough as nails. I believe it was originally developed for boats, but it works better on cars. And because it's so tough, it really holds up to the rough weather here, in terms of all the salt and heat. |
This is the kit my friend has for his Challenger. He loves it.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Pa..._p/hol_201.htm One of my good friends uses Zaino's stuff. He loves it as well. I bought an orbital polisher from Harbor Freight for about $50 and it has worked perfectly. I can't say enough good stuff about the Chemical guys stuff though. They have stuff for every experience level and price point. |
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So if you buy an orbital from them, where do you get pads that fit it? $50 sounds nice! The Zaino stuff looks great. I'm just leery with how many coats they say you get out of a bottle. Like 20 applications for that small bottle. Not that I care if it's half that and works well. Chemical brothers looks good too. What do you use of theirs? |
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I bought my pads from Chemical Guys. Chemical guys has sales and discount codes all the time as well. I use Inner Clean for my interior. Shit is awesome. It makes the plastic look like it is brand new. No gloss. I use their Fabric Clean for the fabric stuff as needed. That shit is awesome (dilute per their recommendations). It made our 2008 3's interior look great after my wife and kid had trashed it. I use the Vintage Series Satin shine stuff for exterior plastics and tires. It's awesome for covering up any wax you may get on trim pieces. For the exterior, I use a polish that I don't think they sell anymore (it was nano-blah blah blah). I use their Pete's 53 wax and Jet Seal as a paint sealant. Edit: The quality detailing stuff like Chemical Guys and Zaino's really do work best with a less is more philosophy. The stuff I've bought has lasted a long ass time. |
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I'm still leaning to Zaino because that bunch covers paint, wash, leather and tires in one. You aren't the first whose mentioned it's good. Just not sure it's best for black but it probably would be fine. |
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And yes, you can get pads from anywhere. You just have to make sure they work with whatever backing plate is on it. Mine has the velcro backing plate so anything that has that works for it. |
So let me see if I can figure this out.
If I order the Porter Cable polisher http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/...I34OXS7VFQ8C11 Add a different backing http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/...I3E41CSBGR5S3T I can use whatever pads I want on the polisher, like these below, with a new backing? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UQAY8/...=IFUOMQ21HBFID http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-...=polishing+pad |
OK, I don't know what you have available in Pheonix, but there is a guy in town that runs a detailing shop. Quite frankly he can do it better than I can and probably cheaper. He did some work for my dad. His pickup was pretty freaking dirty. We have some fine ass dust out here, and it got into the texture on his dash and I flat out couldn't get it clean. I worked at cleaning it for like 3 hours and he did it for like $90 and made it far better than I could.
He just cleaned my wife's TrailBlazer. It was freaking dirty. It's the one we take the dog in all the time and it goes on all the country roads and we hadn't touched it for over a year since our baby was born and he washed, waxed, (I think) he used the Clay Bar, windows, tires, shampooed the carpets, and made it interior look better than I ever could (including cleaning the AC vents. To this ****ing day I have no idea how to get the dust out of the AC vents). Did all that shit for $125. I know I was talking to him and he had monthly programs that are probably damn reasonable. Something to look into. I always thought I did a nice job keeping care of my cars (when I was single LOL) but this guy is better than I am and damn reasonable too. |
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As far as the Chemical Guys Hex Pads I believe they are made by Buff and Shine for Chemical Guys. Phil at Detailers Domain rebrands buff and sine pads he's simplified it down to printing on the back of the pad what that pad does. Phil offers 5 of the buff and shine pad line yellow is cutting, orange is medium polish, green polish, blue glaze/final polish, and black glaze/wax/sealant. I'm not really into using one line and one line only, I've found certain companies have strengths with some products and weakness in others or just way over priced all together. If you're reall not sure on what you all need call auto geek and they can put you together a kit. I put my product assortment together from a bunch of reading on various detailing forums and asking questions. If you have and questions I can try to help just PM me. |
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****. Posted this in wrong thread earlier so here it is.
Was thinking about just a simple orbital polisher such as this. I read somewhere that orbital is better than rotary to avoid swirls. The same one linked here is $25 at Walmart. Not sure if I would go with 6 or 10 inches though? I know I couldn't use the chemical guys polishing pads if I went with the 10 inches and they seem to have a lot of options. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038YNA16/...I29JLNCRSHPM8Z Here's the 6 incher (No KC NATIVE) http://www.amazon.com/Carrand-94000A...bital+polisher |
Second linky no worky. I have a 10' Craftsman orbital that is over 20 years old that's similar to the one you linked and it works fine. I use a terry cloth bonnet for applying and a lambswool one for buffing. Although I don't have any experience with taking care of black so there may very well be better products for that.
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Brother that's worthless. Here going to make it easy on you. But this, thank me later.http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-da-correction-kit.html
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Just my experience. |
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Any thoughts on PC package from Autogeek I linked in next post? Quote:
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This package looks good doesn't it? http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable...value-kit.html Quote:
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I frankly don't have the energy to spend a bunch of time detailing my cars anymore so I go for something that is easy to use and lasts a long time but still looks good. I'm a big fan of Optimum products.
After washing the car (with Optimum car wash and a dash of Optimum No Rinse) and drying it, I start by doing the whole car with Klasse All In One. The one thing I don't like with Optimum is their no cut polish/cleaner so I use Klasse instead. Klasse AIO cleans the paint and adds a durable acrylic sealant. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Nr1wUT8jL.jpg I then add a sealer, Optimum Opti-Seal. It adds a super durable finish to the car. A little goes a long way and it only takes like 2-3 squirts to do a whole car. You just apply it with a microfiber towel. Too much leaves a haze, so you have be careful there. http://www.optimumcarcare.com/optimg...pti%20Seal.jpg That makes up the base which lasts quite a while, six months or so. To keep it going as long as possible, I top that with Optimum Car Wax. I love this stuff. You just spray it on and wipe it off. No buffing or residue. You can hit it again with the OCW after every wash. It only takes a few minutes. http://www.optimumcarcare.com/optimgs/17ozCarWax2.jpg The nice thing about all of these is that they don't stain trim. In fact they keep the trim nice and black and you don't have to use Armorall type stuff on it. My wife's CR-V has tons of that black trim and it's a pain to deal with otherwise. Nothing super fancy but I think it ads a nice shine and some depth. It also lasts. I can do a final detail in September and still be beading in March, even with our shitty winters. https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...90090233_o.jpg |
KAIO is old school but still works well.
Lew, trust me that Meg's system is perfect for the beginner. It will give you unreal results from the jump. Spend a little more it's well worth it. |
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You can use zanio with that polisher with different pads. Have a feeling you won't play with zanio after the megs stuff. |
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Any good car wash product you would recommend? |
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And since I have been told the paint on this Stang is really good, I don't want a bunch of abrasive correcting compounds to start with? |
Mobile detailing. Ask somebody...
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Should be no need for much paint correction if any on the stang if it was maintained really well. I do the whole car maybe once a year or so an touch up any trouble spots where needed. I use these two polishes: Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (for correction) Wolfgang Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (jeweling polish) Also for autogeek they do have sales from time to time that can be a good way to load up. Another tip is if you order from them pick up a sample of compound if you want some on hand just in case for a scratch. You likely will never use up all of that sample. |
Just washed and waxed the Celica today as well.
Hose off the car followed by Optimum no rinse wash in small sections so it doesn't dry. I have been using Finish Kare 2685 Wax for a few years after getting come containers really cheap. It goes on super smooth and I buff it once with a denser Microfiber and follow it up with a lighter Microfiber to get it super smooth. It's a good wax for the money and I have two of these containers which look like they will last forever as it's very minimal application with how well the product spreads. Has a great reflective finish that I like. A few reviews have people using it on dark cars with good results as well. I've layered it over Finish Kare Sealant in the past and both products held up very well last year when I did it. Not sure how respected their products are but they seem to have worked well in taking care of my Celica. http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-2685-wax.html Not bad for 15 year old daily driver that spent half it's life ungaraged. Of course I am gonna miss taking car of a silver car. :( http://i.imgur.com/yzZVDGX.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/4Z5ad3U.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/MeiemD9.jpg?1 |
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Plus I'm not working with a 2015 Chevy Silverado here! :D |
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ROFL This isn't even new! It's 10 damn years old. But sure more fun to drive than anything else I have ever driven and maybe my last fun car for a while. |
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If it's an aggressive polish that can only be used once per year, what do you do for swirl marks during the year or do you minimize them by continually washing and waxing? How often do you wax in between? Maybe I am over-estimating the amount of clear coat you remove by polishing? It just doesn't seem like there is a consistent answer for how often you need/can polish, although I realize that's based on how your paint is holding up. Part of the attraction to the Zaino products, now more than ever, is their non-abrasive nature. I'm not thinking I'll need to do pain correction. So it's layers of non-abrasive polish to decrease what I can assume will be light swirl marks followed by a wax. They even recommend on their site to use abrasive compounds only once you've tried other methods of correction. Their steps go Z-5 which is car polish for fine scratches and swirl marks. They claim non-abrasive fillers that can be layered 2-3 times over a dark colored car and will decrease these fine marks unlike other abrasive polish compounds where you couldn't layer because they have cleaners and oils in them. I would think with a very fine polishing pad it could help in applying this polish without damaging the clearcoat but might make the application of 2-3 layers less fatiguing on the old arms. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...oduct_Code=Z-5 They then recommend following that with their Z-2 to lock in that polished shine of Z-5. Seems to me they are considering their Z-2 to a polish in name only but seems like a wax as they claim that's the last step? That's the only confusing part. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...oduct_Code=Z-2 They also make a moderate/heavy paint cleaner but recommend this as last step secondary to issues we've mentioned. Again, they recommend layering their non-abrasive polish to hide fine marks/swirls over using an abrasive product. Less abrasive the better until you actually need to correct the paint. They make this very clear and that was good for me to hear because I wasn't really understanding polish before reading some things today. http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...duct_Code=Z-PC Another option for compounds would be Meguiar's #9 glaze/swirl remover. Looks fairly non-abrasive and could be used with light cutting polishing pad. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQVX0/...I3BMJPQC14P7W9 Follow that with their Black Wax product. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBW29S/...I2M5W8ZF5PGSX3 |
Aluminum foli cleans chrome like a boss.
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I was impressed. |
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Figuring out how abrasive a polish was the last time I heavily ready up on this was tough. That Wolfgang Swirl Remover is not terribly abrasive but you need that level to get out your typical surface micro scratches. Also there isn't a way to polish out scratches without at lest a little abrasion. With a black car it's much tougher to hide them since you really do see everything. Have never tried Zaino products but anything that is a polish will have some abrasion which is not a bad thing. If it don't abrade its some kind of filler that ins't a polish. |
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