Thread: Other Sports Off Season Lets Talk Guns
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:57 PM   #137
LiveSteam LiveSteam is offline
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A tip for the mini 14 owners.
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation. It's the same for any buffer. I just use the 1911 because they are cheap (), they fit, they work, and come in 6-packs

The buffer goes on the recoil spring at the recoil spring/guide rod/receiver junction. You just grab the recoil spring & guide rod as one unit, pull it out of the buffer and buffer cross pin assembly and slip the 1911 buffer on the spring/guide rod over it, with the curved side toward the barrel. Pay special attention to the Tang on the guide rod when you pull it out of the buffer assembly and reinstall. The tang rests on the cross pin and there is only one position that will allow the op rod to cycle correctly. The Tang of the guide rod should always be facing to the top of the mini or the hand guard whichever is easiest to remember. I just remember TT, for Tang Top. There is no tang on the older standard mini 14’s, the guide rod just fits into a recess. The tang is only found on the newer minis with the built in scope mounts (tactical) and ranch mini’s, old & new. No need to completely remove the recoil spring and guide rod, just pull it back an inch or two to allow enough space to slip the buffer on.
I'm sold on the buffers, they absorb the impact of the op rod into the receiver and prevent metal to metal contact. One buffer should last 500-1000 rounds, they usually come in packs of 6, so one pack should last a long time. A pack usually costs anywhere form $6 to $8 dollars. I use the Wilson brand, there are other brands with different reputations for durability and softness. Some people use them on the front over the gas pipe in the gas block to absorb the front slam of the op rod into the gas block. I always thought they would melt, but after giving one away and having a couple of hundred rounds go through that mini I could see no signs of it melting. But one thing for sure it was taking a lot of impact from the op rod. I plan to try one there in the future. But as I am now working on trying different size gas bushings I am looking to start from a stock position for the gas system and ejection. A buffer in the front will hold the op rod back slightly from seating onto the gas block pipe. It may not matter, but for the gas bushing testing I am doing I don't want to add another variable to the mix right now.
I have not heard of any negative reports from people using the 1911 buffers at the back, but I have heard of reports of some of the commercial mini buffers being to thick and not allowing the bolt to go back far enough to cycle the rounds. In that case people are either shaving the buffer down or cutting them in two making 2 buffers out of 1.

For those that dont no what they are looking at. it is the Blue rubber bushing. This trick really helps with the beating a scope takes on a Mini

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=241631



Another very good cheap upgrade is a strut. It will cut MOA by 1/2 if not more. Pluss your mini will look more like a M-14.http://www.accu-strut.com/pages/application%20guide.htm

& last but not least. this probably is the best bang for your buck IMO when trying to improve barrel accuracy on older Mini & Ranch rifles.
http://www.cryopro.com/gun.html

Last edited by LiveSteam; 01-25-2011 at 11:17 PM..
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