Quote:
Originally Posted by kepp
OK...more questions about indoor sports photography. I tried some more manual settings this weekend and didn't get great results. In most of the photos, the subject's center mass was in focus nicely, but the arms/legs were blurry. I was told by a photog that was there that I need to up my ISO to freeze the motion better. I've been reading through the 20D manual...are shutter speed and ISO the same thing? It says that ISO is the sensitivity to light, whereas shutter speed is how fast the shutter opens/closes. In some places though, it seems they're used interchangeably. So, based on the manual and reading some forum posts, here are some settings that I'm going to try next. Any thoughts/suggestions?:
--AF Mode--
AI Servo with automatic AF point selection
--Program Mode--
1. Tv mode (shutter priority)
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600 and allow the camera to auto-set the aperture
-if the aperture gets set too narrow (probably 3.5 or narrower), try option 2
2. Manual exposure mode
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600
-set aperture width to 2.8
-make adjustments based on the exposure level meter
3. Tv mode with exposure compensation
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600 and allow the camera to auto-set the aperture
-raise or lower the exposure compensation based on the exposure level meter
-this option is not available in manual exposure mode
--White Balance--
Most gyms will use either white fluorescent or tungsten lighting.
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I find the easy way is to set what you know, and let it go. Try this:
1) Set the ISO to 1600 (or H if you're willing to try) so the camera can fire as quickly as possible.
2) Set the camera to AV mode and manually set it to 2.8 (or the brightest setting you have, which should be 2.8), and that should help with getting the shutter speed as fast as the camera can go.
While that will minimize the DoF (the 2.8 part), the ISO of 1600/H will do about all you can do to limit the fast-moving-parts from blurring (if that's what you want).
But I'd recommend the AV because it lets you control the 2.8 part of the lens you just spend so much money on (for its 2.8 ability), but keeps the camera's brains in the mix beyond that.