Plumbing problem: PEX has no flex

[cdcox]

I'm running PEX in my bathroom. I thought it would be more flexible than it actually is. So I 've got to run some through two studs that make a blind corner (see diagram in first post). I have't hung dry wall in the bathroom yet, but there is dry wall on the other sides of studs.I have zero access to the blind corner and all the available drilling angles are bad. I was thinking about removing some of the dry wall on the other side of the wall (it's our kitchen pantry) and drilling through the blind corner at a 45-degree angle. Then I can run the PEX straight through the bind corner. There is another stud close to the blind corner, so I'll need an elbow to get the PEX going back the right direction. There looks like there is enough room to attach an elbow once I get past the blind corner.

The draw backs to this plan are 1) I have to remove and eventually repair dry wall in the kitcken pantry and 2) I don't have a spade bit that long. Any one have a better ideal?

[FAX]

Have you tried fire?

FAX

[cdcox]

Originally Posted by Groves

In the diagram, on the "south" side, the line goes from basically straight into the angled hole, no elbow needed, but on the "north" end, it comes out of the drilled hole and needs an elbow? Maybe you don't need an elbow?

You already know this, but the downside to no elbow is getting the line to fit without crimping. The downside to an elbow, one that will not be accessible, is that it may leak.

If you're desperate, you can always use some soft copper for the corner and connect the pex on either side.

The reason I needed the elbow in the diagram was that on the "south" side, I had 16" spacing between the studs, but once I turn the corner, the first stud is only 5" or so away -- the spacing is too tight to bend the PEX to enter the face of the stud.

I think the winner idea is to notch the studs enough to accommodate an elbow. If that doesn't look good, I'll run the line under the floor.

[Iowanian]

Ideally, I'd drop it through the floor, run it in your basement/crawl space to where you need to go, and back up through the floor.


You can notch the studs and use elbows, but run plenty of water through the line and check for leaks before drywall....

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Originally Posted by ohiobronco2

This guy knows what the hell he is talking about. I'd say this is a winner. Sure as hell beats trying to fish tape that crap through those studs. With those Pex fittings, you can go from Pex to Copper and CPVC I believe. If the pex won't take the gradual bend, just notch and run a little copper or cpvc for that short distance. Then return to PEX. I'm pretty sure PEX fittings will allow you to incorporate copper or CPVC, if not, a tiger shark fitting will.

I manage construction for a living. I've see the right way and the wrong way for just about everything...

[Extra Point]

Two 45's make a ninety. Is there a 45 degree glue or Sharkbite fitting available?

[ohiobronco2]

Originally Posted by mikeyis4dcats.

I manage construction for a living. I've see the right way and the wrong way for just about everything...

I know what you mean. My family runs a plumbing company. I've just about seen it all.

[Halfcan]

Originally Posted by cdcox

I'm running PEX in my bathroom. I thought it would be more flexible than it actually is. So I 've got to run some through two studs that make a blind corner (see diagram in first post). I have't hung dry wall in the bathroom yet, but there is dry wall on the other sides of studs.I have zero access to the blind corner and all the available drilling angles are bad. I was thinking about removing some of the dry wall on the other side of the wall (it's our kitchen pantry) and drilling through the blind corner at a 45-degree angle. Then I can run the PEX straight through the bind corner. There is another stud close to the blind corner, so I'll need an elbow to get the PEX going back the right direction. There looks like there is enough room to attach an elbow once I get past the blind corner.

The draw backs to this plan are 1) I have to remove and eventually repair dry wall in the kitcken pantry and 2) I don't have a spade bit that long. Any one have a better ideal?

since I didn't understand a word of this-even with the diagram-I won't give you any advice.