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Old 01-02-2013, 03:46 PM   Topic Starter
MOhillbilly MOhillbilly is offline
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brake line fitting

Busted the line at the fitting on the rear passenger side today. I can't get the fitting off, it seems really soft on both ends. Box wrench and socket wanted to round the edges with the slightest amount of torque. Special tool of tricks?

Orielly didn't know the diameter of.the line either. My chiltons didn't have specs that I seen. I assumed its 3/16.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:48 PM   #2
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:48 PM   #3
Dayze Dayze is offline
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what kind of ball bearings does it take?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:50 PM   #4
Flachief58 Flachief58 is offline
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Have you tried heating the fitting with a torch?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:53 PM   #5
MOhillbilly MOhillbilly is offline
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Originally Posted by Flachief58 View Post
Have you tried heating the fitting with a torch?
Not yet since I can't break it loose from the split either.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:59 PM   #6
Flachief58 Flachief58 is offline
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Hit it with a wire brush, soak with PB blaster, let it sit for 30 min, wipe it clean and try again. If not, Vice grips, drill, and tap & die set may be your only option here
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:00 PM   #7
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:16 PM   #8
JASONSAUTO JASONSAUTO is offline
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not going to work.too big.

Thought you were linking to thosesquare drive sockets.

Wife bought me a set and they work great
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:01 PM   #9
theelusiveeightrop theelusiveeightrop is offline
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Check the fetzer valve.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:15 PM   #10
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:43 AM   #11
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This, once you get the wheel cylinder out and in a vise on the bench.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:32 PM   #12
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i'm assuming this is drum brake and the line is alloy. I'd use reg pliers and I know it'll get buggered up, but I doubt you have a choice. If it comes off, great -- you can likely get it back together with pliers and it doesn't take a lot of torque to cinch those.

But, if not...

If you can replace the line at the coupling easy enough, just cut it and crimp the end shut so a minimal amount of fluid is lost. you're gonna need to bleed that thoroughly after you're finished, either way. you'll need a new slave unit, they are cheap enough.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:39 PM   #13
MOhillbilly MOhillbilly is offline
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Can I just splice the line and bypass having to **** with the coupling?
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #14
Ace Gunner Ace Gunner is offline
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Quote:
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Can I just splice the line and bypass having to **** with the coupling?
I don't know of any way to do this. The flair fitting is done by machine and it has to be precise.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:02 PM   #15
Radar Chief Radar Chief is offline
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I don't know of any way to do this. The flair fitting is done by machine and it has to be precise.
I've got a line flare press, they're not expensive or hard to use. It wouldn't surprise me if O'Reilly's has one for rent.

Tough situation MO, about the only way I've gotten out of it is to either soak the fitting with some good penetrating oil then work it back and forth with a wrench while continuing to hose it down with the penetrating oil, or like you mentioned cut it out and splice around it.
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