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Old 05-23-2013, 11:02 AM  
Dayze Dayze is offline
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Camera Suggestions?

Ok;

so the wife and I are in the market for a camera. We previously had a Sony digital camera for about 10 years but the wife dropped it and now it won't hold any settings etc.

So, it's time for another one. I'm by no means a professional photographer; but I also don't want some little $100 POS either. I'd like to have one that I could 'grow' into if I wanted to so to speak.

I think My budget is about $400-$600. I was looking at the Nikon D3200 DSLR....though, admittedly, I'm not 100% what "DSLR" is.
I like the design of it; I've held a few like it and they're much easier to hold IMO.

Suggestions?
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:00 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GloryDayz View Post
In AV mode, with you having set/forced the aperture to 2.8, the camera sets the shutter speed to whatever it needs to based on the other thing you had "set" (the ISO). So set the aperture to 2.8 (fast/bright as we say), the ISO to 1600/H (fast), and the camera will/should set the shutter speed to something a lot faster than a 60th or 80th of a second. Then again, I'm not sure how dark the gym was. If you PM me one of the original pics (with EXIF data still attached), I'll take a look...
I see...that makes sense. The gym really didn't seem that dark to me on the floor. I think what may have been happening was that the background walls (by the bleachers) didn't have good lighting and maybe the camera was picking up on that. I'm shooting in 'L', not 'L + RAW', so I don't know that I have the EXIF data you're talking about.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:18 PM   #227
GloryDayz GloryDayz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kepp View Post
I see...that makes sense. The gym really didn't seem that dark to me on the floor. I think what may have been happening was that the background walls (by the bleachers) didn't have good lighting and maybe the camera was picking up on that. I'm shooting in 'L', not 'L + RAW', so I don't know that I have the EXIF data you're talking about.
Everything you shoot with it has EXIF data. If you've downloaded them you can go into the folder in Windows Explorer (unless you have a Mac), right-click on the picture, go to properties, select the Details tab, and you should have the EXIF data there too.

If you're using the SW that came with the camera, there should be a shit-ton of data there too..
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:27 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by kepp View Post
OK...more questions about indoor sports photography. I tried some more manual settings this weekend and didn't get great results. In most of the photos, the subject's center mass was in focus nicely, but the arms/legs were blurry. I was told by a photog that was there that I need to up my ISO to freeze the motion better. I've been reading through the 20D manual...are shutter speed and ISO the same thing? It says that ISO is the sensitivity to light, whereas shutter speed is how fast the shutter opens/closes. In some places though, it seems they're used interchangeably. So, based on the manual and reading some forum posts, here are some settings that I'm going to try next. Any thoughts/suggestions?:

--AF Mode--
AI Servo with automatic AF point selection

--Program Mode--
1. Tv mode (shutter priority)
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600 and allow the camera to auto-set the aperture
-if the aperture gets set too narrow (probably 3.5 or narrower), try option 2

2. Manual exposure mode
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600
-set aperture width to 2.8
-make adjustments based on the exposure level meter

3. Tv mode with exposure compensation
-set ISO speed to 800 or 1600 and allow the camera to auto-set the aperture
-raise or lower the exposure compensation based on the exposure level meter
-this option is not available in manual exposure mode

--White Balance--
Most gyms will use either white fluorescent or tungsten lighting.
I'm not familiar with the 20D at all, but I've enjoyed using AV mode with my 60D quite a bit. It seems pretty accurate and is making me look better than I am.

I would think you'd want to set the focus to fixed center so you're in control and the camera can't try to grab the bars or whatever other apparatus you're working around. You may be far enough away you've got enough depth to account for the error though.

Every gym, church, and dungeon is going to be lit differently. I'd try to learn to get the WB set correctly each time you enter a gym instead of trusting it to get close based on what kind of lights and lighting the building has.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:37 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghak99 View Post
I'm not familiar with the 20D at all, but I've enjoyed using AV mode with my 60D quite a bit. It seems pretty accurate and is making me look better than I am.

I would think you'd want to set the focus to fixed center so you're in control and the camera can't try to grab the bars or whatever other apparatus you're working around. You may be far enough away you've got enough depth to account for the error though.

Every gym, church, and dungeon is going to be lit differently. I'd try to learn to get the WB set correctly each time you enter a gym instead of trusting it to get close based on what kind of lights and lighting the building has.
I'm definitely going to try this. I've been mistaking shutter speed for ISO when in AV mode. So when the aperture was set to 2.8, it was using a slow shutter speed because the ISO was set too low (I never set it). This clears some things up for me.

I also read some comments from some people that said you don't need to use image stabilization when using high ISO/fast shutter speeds? Does it really matter either way?
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:36 PM   #230
GloryDayz GloryDayz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kepp View Post
I'm definitely going to try this. I've been mistaking shutter speed for ISO when in AV mode. So when the aperture was set to 2.8, it was using a slow shutter speed because the ISO was set too low (I never set it). This clears some things up for me.

I also read some comments from some people that said you don't need to use image stabilization when using high ISO/fast shutter speeds? Does it really matter either way?
All things being equal, and you want to take a big step, if you shoot RAW, you can fix the color later... But they are big pics and can't do much about burned (over exposed) or dark (under exposed) pics. But knowing how to set the white balance is always something good to know. And I think learning this and keeping white paper with you might be simpler that learning end remember all the numbers associated with various color and light temperatures.

Watch these:



And this one has bracketing too. Kinda cool too!



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Old 01-14-2014, 08:42 AM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GloryDayz View Post
All things being equal, and you want to take a big step, if you shoot RAW, you can fix the color later... But they are big pics and can't do much about burned (over exposed) or dark (under exposed) pics. But knowing how to set the white balance is always something good to know. And I think learning this and keeping white paper with you might be simpler that learning end remember all the numbers associated with various color and light temperatures.

Watch these:
Thanks, I'll watch those.

So I took the camera to my daughter's practice and made the adjustments...set the ISO to H (3200 I believe) and used AV mode with aperture set to 2.8. HUGE DIFFERENCE! No blurry pics save for the ones where I was just off target. It froze flips and back handsprings perfectly with no blurring. Thanks for the help everyone. Its good that I'm getting this down, because I think some parents thought I was just some perv that came in off the streets with a telephoto lens.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:23 AM   #232
GloryDayz GloryDayz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kepp View Post
Thanks, I'll watch those.

So I took the camera to my daughter's practice and made the adjustments...set the ISO to H (3200 I believe) and used AV mode with aperture set to 2.8. HUGE DIFFERENCE! No blurry pics save for the ones where I was just off target. It froze flips and back handsprings perfectly with no blurring. Thanks for the help everyone. Its good that I'm getting this down, because I think some parents thought I was just some perv that came in off the streets with a telephoto lens.
Sweet... Next you'll want to "grasp" on focus point (in non-servo mode), and focusing in the servo/one-shot modes.

Once you find which of those make you happiest, then moving into metering (center weighted or more averaging) will be sweet..

Know this, digital or film, light and lighting is the biggest part of photography. So learning how to manipulate light is what it's all about. And dealing with flash And yeah, you can flash in a gym too if you get a good one, and you'll find out how much progress you've made. And I think you can get a really good grasp of most of it by just writing down the things you want to learn, and focus on just that for a day or two.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:28 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GloryDayz View Post
Sweet... Next you'll want to "grasp" on focus point (in non-servo mode), and focusing in the servo/one-shot modes.

Once you find which of those make you happiest, then moving into metering (center weighted or more averaging) will be sweet..

Know this, digital or film, light and lighting is the biggest part of photography. So learning how to manipulate light is what it's all about. And dealing with flash And yeah, you can flash in a gym too if you get a good one, and you'll find out how much progress you've made. And I think you can get a really good grasp of most of it by just writing down the things you want to learn, and focus on just that for a day or two.
I've had my D3100 for a couple of years now and really haven't learned to use it to its capabilities. Can you recommend a good website that will cover some of the intermediate/advanced subjects?
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:01 AM   #234
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I've had my D3100 for a couple of years now and really haven't learned to use it to its capabilities. Can you recommend a good website that will cover some of the intermediate/advanced subjects?
The blog at www.fredmiranda.com is usually awesome, but I'll tell you, youtube is awesome if you know what you're looking to do. And Nikon has a ton out there. Hell, their mirror lock-up is still the best out there IMO, but that pretty advanced stuff right there (if you're doing stuff that needs it like shooting timed exposures of stars).

But here's an article for how to set it on you D3100: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...kon-d3100.html


The key are the subjects you search for on youtube. In this case look for youtube videos for the D3100's white balance. Even though the concept is the same across all cameras, the procedure is pretty specific to a brand, so it'll save time. The key will be to understand why you're setting white balance. Photo nerds like to talk smart and call/say different kinds of light have different temperatures/warmth. Whatever, it's all about photons! But alas, all folks need to know is that when you shoot under florescent lights you might get a blue tone, and in some cases green tones! You don't want that, so here's what you can do..... So white balance "the subject" is worth a 5-10 minute video. Once you've heard the nerds talk, the important part is how do deal with it using your super-smart camera.

But the concepts of using AV for a camera that you've dropped a 2.8 lens on, that's just something that you do and it's pretty simple - set the camera to AV, set the ISO to something really fast, then shoot. The concept is to use the "bright" 2.8 lens, and the easiest way to do that is to use AV. See, I'm more lazy than smart.

Here's a tutorial of AV/DoF (Depth of Field) that's worth a few minutes of your empoyer's time and his bandwidth..

http://youtu.be/X8wL3gdJ7KA
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:06 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GloryDayz View Post
The blog at www.fredmiranda.com is usually awesome, but I'll tell you, youtube is awesome if you know what you're looking to do. And Nikon has a ton out there. Hell, their mirror lock-up is still the best out there IMO, but that pretty advanced stuff right there (if you're doing stuff that needs it like shooting timed exposures of stars).

But here's an article for how to set it on you D3100: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...kon-d3100.html


The key are the subjects you search for on youtube. In this case look for youtube videos for the D3100's white balance. Even though the concept is the same across all cameras, the procedure is pretty specific to a brand, so it'll save time. The key will be to understand why you're setting white balance. Photo nerds like to talk smart and call/say different kinds of light have different temperatures/warmth. Whatever, it's all about photons! But alas, all folks need to know is that when you shoot under florescent lights you might get a blue tone, and in some cases green tones! You don't want that, so here's what you can do..... So white balance "the subject" is worth a 5-10 minute video. Once you've heard the nerds talk, the important part is how do deal with it using your super-smart camera.

But the concepts of using AV for a camera that you've dropped a 2.8 lens on, that's just something that you do and it's pretty simple - set the camera to AV, set the ISO to something really fast, then shoot. The concept is to use the "bright" 2.8 lens, and the easiest way to do that is to use AV. See, I'm more lazy than smart.

Here's a tutorial of AV/DoF (Depth of Field) that's worth a few minutes of your empoyer's time and his bandwidth..

http://youtu.be/X8wL3gdJ7KA
Awesome, thanks. I could probably just talk to my dad about it too. He's a very good photographer. I've posted some of his work here before.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:33 PM   #236
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Curious what the resident lens experts think... I'm going to be buying a new lens soon, just kinda stuck between the Canon f/4L 17-40mm and the Canon f/4L 24-105mm. Wondering if anyone has any experience with both and if one is the better lens, focal length notwithstanding.

This will be my first L-series, but I've got the f/1.4 50mm prime (very nice lens, really sharp at f/3.5 and higher), a f/4-5.6 75-300, and the crappy 18-55mm kit lens.

I'm primarily shooting food right now, but I want to start some HDR work, too.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:01 PM   #237
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Curious what the resident lens experts think... I'm going to be buying a new lens soon, just kinda stuck between the Canon f/4L 17-40mm and the Canon f/4L 24-105mm. Wondering if anyone has any experience with both and if one is the better lens, focal length notwithstanding.

This will be my first L-series, but I've got the f/1.4 50mm prime (very nice lens, really sharp at f/3.5 and higher), a f/4-5.6 75-300, and the crappy 18-55mm kit lens.

I'm primarily shooting food right now, but I want to start some HDR work, too.
If you can rent both, that'd be best so you can decide.

The being said, my personal recommendation would be the 24-105. 17 is VERY wide and prolly not something you'd find useful all too often.

Here's an idea, you might want to click on this link and browse some of the pics you think are very close to the kinds of shots you'd take, then look at what those photogs used. It might be a waste of your time, but meh, we have time..

http://photo.net/gallery/caption-sea...ry_string=food
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:07 PM   #238
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If you can rent both, that'd be best so you can decide.

The being said, my personal recommendation would be the 24-105. 17 is VERY wide and prolly not something you'd find useful all too often.

Here's an idea, you might want to click on this link and browse some of the pics you think are very close to the kinds of shots you'd take, then look at what those photogs used. It might be a waste of your time, but meh, we have time..

http://photo.net/gallery/caption-sea...ry_string=food
And speaking of wide, this will be on a 5D, so full frame sensor, no digital conversion.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:14 PM   #239
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And speaking of wide, this will be on a 5D, so full frame sensor, no digital conversion.
Yes Sir. Great choice...
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:04 AM   #240
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I may have just made my choice. I found some gently used f/2.8L 24-70mm. And by gently used, they say "90-96% of original condition. Exceptionally nice. May have slight wear on finish but visible only under close inspection. Glass very clean."
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