Home and Auto Electricians: Chandelier went out but it's getting current - Page 2

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 08:37 PM

Couple of months ago our family room chandelier went out cold turkey. I'm just now getting time to get to it.

I originally thought it was the switch as I bought one of those non contact voltmeters and it went crazy at t he chandelier. Took off the dimmer and it went crazy inside of the switch box also.

Replaced the switch at Lowes and NOTHING. It still went crazy at the chandelier.

Thought, "that's odd." replaced one bulb and nothing. Tried the same bulb in another room's chandelier and it worked. Any ideas? I'm hurting here for suggestions.

**chefsos** · 11-20-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky

Get a real meter, a cheap one will work. Check hot to ground, then hot to neutral. Should get 120 both ways.

This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 09:42 PM

Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.

**mikeyis4dcats.** · 11-20-2012, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky

Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.

if I understood him right, he replaced the dimmer.

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 09:48 PM

If he made up new switch with power on may have "smoked" it. That's a professional term. Should not work a dimmer "hot". Instructions will verify this.

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chefsos

This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.

Walmart has a cheap one as well.

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 09:51 PM

Yeah. I replaced the dimmer.
Had wife use the non contact thing and when I touched the wires it went crazy. When I stopped the connection it died down. I'm not an electrician but I'd touch wires for a split second and it'd go bat shit crazy. Disconnect for 3-4 seconds and do it again. Same results.

The chandelier base is about 20 feet high. Don't have a ladder that goes that high.
Replaced the old dimmer and it basically did the same as the new one. So took the new one back out because the older one was a custom one with heat syncs. Left the old one in there.

Coach · 11-20-2012, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky

Walmart has a cheap one as well.

You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 09:55 PM

it's his work #... I do the same thing with tatts. Helps with business anyways.

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coach

You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...

I am sure you are right. If I was better on a computer I would have more posts. I don't even know what PM is.

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 10:00 PM

Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 10:03 PM

With new information I believe your assessment that it is not the switch. Unfortunately most likely problem lies 20 feet up in the box.

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 10:04 PM

Even if the lights themselves are showing hot?

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wutamess

Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?

It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.

wutamess · 11-20-2012, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UberSparky

It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.

Ugh... so electrician needs to be called with a 20 foot ladder?

UberSparky · 11-20-2012, 10:13 PM

In box in ceiling you have a switched hot and neutral. If the tick tester reads at bulb when switch is on and not when its off, it is reasonable to assume you have power. Only remaining answer if this is true(need multimeter to be sure) is loose neutral in switch box, fixture box, or previous device box that is still working but not providing neutral down line to chandelier.

11-20-2012, 08:37 PM
wutamess MVP Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Lee's Summit Casino cash: $5401637	Electricians: Chandelier went out but it's getting current Couple of months ago our family room chandelier went out cold turkey. I'm just now getting time to get to it. I originally thought it was the switch as I bought one of those non contact voltmeters and it went crazy at t he chandelier. Took off the dimmer and it went crazy inside of the switch box also. Replaced the switch at Lowes and NOTHING. It still went crazy at the chandelier. Thought, "that's odd." replaced one bulb and nothing. Tried the same bulb in another room's chandelier and it worked. Any ideas? I'm hurting here for suggestions.
Posts: 8,275

11-20-2012, 09:42 PM	#17
UberSparky Starter Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Valley "freaking" Falls Casino cash: $10004900	Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.
Posts: 87

11-20-2012, 09:48 PM	#19
UberSparky Starter Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Valley "freaking" Falls Casino cash: $10004900	If he made up new switch with power on may have "smoked" it. That's a professional term. Should not work a dimmer "hot". Instructions will verify this.
Posts: 87

11-20-2012, 09:51 PM	#21
wutamess MVP Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Lee's Summit Casino cash: $5401637	Yeah. I replaced the dimmer. Had wife use the non contact thing and when I touched the wires it went crazy. When I stopped the connection it died down. I'm not an electrician but I'd touch wires for a split second and it'd go bat shit crazy. Disconnect for 3-4 seconds and do it again. Same results. The chandelier base is about 20 feet high. Don't have a ladder that goes that high. Replaced the old dimmer and it basically did the same as the new one. So took the new one back out because the older one was a custom one with heat syncs. Left the old one in there.
Posts: 8,275

11-20-2012, 09:55 PM	#23
wutamess MVP Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Lee's Summit Casino cash: $5401637	it's his work #... I do the same thing with tatts. Helps with business anyways.
Posts: 8,275

11-20-2012, 10:00 PM	#25
wutamess MVP Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Lee's Summit Casino cash: $5401637	Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?
Posts: 8,275

11-20-2012, 10:03 PM	#26
UberSparky Starter Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Valley "freaking" Falls Casino cash: $10004900	With new information I believe your assessment that it is not the switch. Unfortunately most likely problem lies 20 feet up in the box.
Posts: 87

11-20-2012, 10:04 PM	#27
wutamess MVP Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Lee's Summit Casino cash: $5401637	Even if the lights themselves are showing hot?
Posts: 8,275

11-20-2012, 10:13 PM	#30
UberSparky Starter Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Valley "freaking" Falls Casino cash: $10004900	In box in ceiling you have a switched hot and neutral. If the tick tester reads at bulb when switch is on and not when its off, it is reasonable to assume you have power. Only remaining answer if this is true(need multimeter to be sure) is loose neutral in switch box, fixture box, or previous device box that is still working but not providing neutral down line to chandelier.
Posts: 87