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Old 03-07-2015, 10:44 PM  
lewdog lewdog is offline
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Car Care and Detailing Thread

Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.

While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot.

I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b.

I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things.


Some of the things already on my list are:
1. Not sure if everyone recommends wool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do?
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB

4. Car Wash

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title


Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax?

I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing?

http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser


Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care.

http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits



I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front.



Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:26 PM   #16
MIAdragon MIAdragon is offline
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Depend on how anal you are and how much you want to spend. With a black car, I'd have the paint FULLY corrected, 700ish then fully wrapped in xpel self healing wrap. Around 1500. Seems like some coin but it will always look pristine with almost zero effort and its protected from Rock chips, bird shit and just about anything else except a crazy ex.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:27 PM   #17
MIAdragon MIAdragon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock View Post
I use a sponge for washing and a urethane squeegee for drying.
Better yet, go to a self wash that has the air dryer option. The less you dry rub your paint the better.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by MIAdragon View Post
Better yet, go to a self wash that has the air dryer option. The less you dry rub your paint the better.
Sometimes I use my leaf blower
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:38 PM   #19
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Better yet, go to a self wash that has the air dryer option. The less you dry rub your paint the better.
Electric leaf blower or even better a purpose built blower are nice for not using towels.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by MIAdragon View Post
Depend on how anal you are and how much you want to spend. With a black car, I'd have the paint FULLY corrected, 700ish then fully wrapped in xpel self healing wrap. Around 1500. Seems like some coin but it will always look pristine with almost zero effort and its protected from Rock chips, bird shit and just about anything else except a crazy ex.
If it was kept up by someone who kept it as perfect as his earlier thread describes should be little to no paint correction needed. Unless it is serious and you don't mind the effort, paint correction isn't too bad to do it on your own so long as you have a polisher and the right products.

Have heard of the newer clear bra tech but haven't seen it in use (or noticed that a car had it which I guess would be the point). Would be curious if it gives a different look.
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:44 AM   #21
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:09 AM   #22
lewdog lewdog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIAdragon View Post
Depend on how anal you are and how much you want to spend. With a black car, I'd have the paint FULLY corrected, 700ish then fully wrapped in xpel self healing wrap. Around 1500. Seems like some coin but it will always look pristine with almost zero effort and its protected from Rock chips, bird shit and just about anything else except a crazy ex.
I'm not sure I am that anal and the paint is in great shape already. I'm mostly looking for ways to wash it weekly and wax/polish every few months. I've heard about those wraps and many say those actually oxidize in the heat (I'm in Phoenix) and can turn yellowish themselves?

Although this is pretty sweet in the video! If the paint is fine and doesn't need to be fully corrected, you think it costs about $1,500 to have someone do the Xpel wraps and you are saying do the whole car, not just the bra area like many people do? I just looked online and many say $3k is the minimum that would cost so I am surely out on that. Would think about it for the front end area but many people say if your car is exposed to lots of sun, this will be, it has the risk of oxidizing and turning yellow. Do you just wax/polish over this area like you normally would a car without this wrap?

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Old 03-08-2015, 08:11 AM   #23
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But anyway, see this is what I mean! SOO many products out there. I suppose as long as I am doing something it's better than nothing.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:38 AM   #24
lewdog lewdog is offline
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And it we are being honest with ourselves it's a nice car but a 10 year old Mustang, not a Porsche.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:38 AM   #25
Bugeater Bugeater is offline
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*You're



But anyway, see this is what I mean! SOO many products out there. I suppose as long as I am doing something it's better than nothing.
Yeah, as long as you're using auto-specific products and following the directions you should be fine. You NEVER want to use any type of household cleaners, like dish soap for instance, the grease cutting elements in it will strip your wax job right off.

I do the clay bar/wax once a year, then just regular washings and dry with a chamois. Leaf blower works good too, if you have a good wax job the water will roll right off the paint. I also use Meguiar's trim detailer on all the black plastic, usually have to do that a couple times a year.

One thing with the clay bar is you always want to put some towels or newspaper on the ground where you're working that way if you drop it, it won't get any small pebbles/rocks in it. You don't want to be rubbing that shit into your paint.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:44 AM   #26
lewdog lewdog is offline
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Originally Posted by Baconeater View Post
Yeah, as long as you're using auto-specific products and following the directions you should be fine. You NEVER want to use any type of household cleaners, like dish soap for instance, the grease cutting elements in it will strip your wax job right off.

I do the clay bar/wax once a year, then just regular washings and dry with a chamois. Leaf blower works good too, if you have a good wax job the water will roll right off the paint. I also use Meguiar's trim detailer on all the black plastic, usually have to do that a couple times a year.

One thing with the clay bar is you always want to put some towels or newspaper on the ground where you're working that way if you drop it, it won't get any small pebbles/rocks in it. You don't want to be rubbing that shit into your paint.
Good recommendation on the clay bar. Someone in the other thread mentioned some new clay product that's a clay towel, said it's easier to use and better?

I wax our current cars 3 times per year so I don't mind putting some work in. I never let them get to the point that water isn't beading over the whole car. Thing is we've only ever owned light colored cars. Hell, mine is silver and sometimes when waxing it's hard for me to tell where I have the wax drying as the haze is similar in color to the car. .

It's this whole black color that I know will show swirls. Not that I won't mind a few because I know they'll happen but I'll have to be a little more detailed/patient with how I wash and wax it.

I have an electric leaf blower and never thought about drying with that. I would think that would still leave some water spots but I haven't tried it.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:49 AM   #27
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I have not used a clay towel so I don't know anything about it. I will say, you will be shocked at how much longer your wax job lasts if you clay bar (or towel?) it first.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:57 AM   #28
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I have the Griot 6" and 3" polishers, very affordable for the do it yourselfer, not to mention both come with a lifetime warranty. Before you polish you'll want to clay your car. Some also do a wipe down with deluted alcohol to remove old wax. I found a safer means with Griot Garages Paint Prep. As far as polishes there are many great options. An affordable pair is meguiars 105 and 205 or the Wolfgang twins. I personally like the Menzerna line of polishes. Their FG400 is a diminishing polish that will correct and also polish out to 95% in one step with a lake country flat orange pad with decreasing pressure with your passes. That last 5% are people who desire that true show car finish and the Menzerna SF4500 with a lake country flat grey will get you there. I've also used a white flat with the 4500 with great results. The thing you'll learn about pads is there really isn't a right or wrong pad. You just always want to start with the least aggressive pad and cutting compound to achieve your goal. I recommend plenty of testing/trial and error. Lake Country and Buff and Shine make good quality pads. After I'm through polishing I wipe the vehicle down with CarPro Eraser to remove left over polish residue and oils. The best glaze on the market for those with fine swirls and don't wish to do paint correction is Chemical Guys Black Light. My favorite sealant is Black Fire Wet Diamond. With 2 coats of Pinnacle Souveran wax on black or red paints it gives deep shine and looks super wet. Wolfgang Fuzion wax is also amazing on dark paints, it lasts a little longer than Souveran, but the $195 price tag is steep, you do get 1 free refill. I dry my Camaro with a Metro Vac Master Blaster blow dryer, they're pricey, but reduce chances of swirls. The best quick detailer spray is made by Adams Polishes. Something else you want in your arsenal is plenty of microfiber towels and it's wise to color code your towel to specific steps in your detailing to never cross contaminate products on your finish. Here's a list of places I visit and hit sales.

Auto geek- auto geek often has sales, but their shipping is pricey want to reach their free shipping with your order.

Detailers Domain- I've done a bit of business with Phil and he's always willing to offer me 15% off on any of my orders.

Detailed Image

Adams Polishes

Superior Car Care- Always get 10% off with SUPERIOR10 code

Auto Detailing Solutions

Auto-Topia Car Care

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Old 03-08-2015, 09:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog View Post
Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.

While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot.

I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a ****ing n00b.

I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things.


Some of the things already on my list are:
1. Not sure if everyone recommends wool wash mitt over micorfiber here but many people I know do?
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

2. Grit guard and two wash buckets. One for rinse and one for soap/water.

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Genuin...wool+wash+mitt

3. Waffle Weave Drying towel. There are tons of towels out there but this seems to be able to take up a lot of water.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8DMA0/...I21164SXVV1AWB

4. Car Wash

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO/...b_recs_2_title


Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax?

I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing?

http://www.amazon.com/P21S-12350B-Pa...twork+Cleanser


Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care.

http://www.zainostore.com/mm5/mercha...y_Code=prokits



I do not have a polisher and would need to get one of those as well but not sure where to start on that front.



Can't wait to see what you guys have tried and recommend.
Zaino is the shit! I use it on the Camaro. Top notch stuff. Expensive but it will make your car shine like a ****ing mirror!
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Old 03-08-2015, 09:04 AM   #30
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I have not used a clay towel so I don't know anything about it. I will say, you will be shocked at how much longer your wax job lasts if you clay bar (or towel?) it first.
The towels work great and cut claying time down considerable not to mention give more uses than clay. Drawback a new towel even being broke in on glass as its recommended leaves considerable paint marring the first few times you use it until it gets really broke in. So if you're not planning to paint correct, don't use one.
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