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03-24-2008, 11:31 AM | #2 |
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Is compression cement the same as hydraulic cement? I've used hydraulic cement in the past with good results. If they're the same then I got nothin'.
http://www.unitex-chemicals.com/cata...c_cement.shtml |
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03-24-2008, 11:35 AM | #3 | |
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I don't want to break any of the floor concrete around it for the fear of the footer beam support. It does appear to be sinking any, so patching it and sealing is my choice. The water is seaping up and making the old cenet I used to crack. So all of that has to come up to get it dry enough topatch again.
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03-24-2008, 12:09 PM | #4 |
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masturbate with mud
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03-24-2008, 12:20 PM | #5 |
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Sounds to me like you need a sump pump.
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03-24-2008, 01:53 PM | #6 |
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No I don't, it only leaks when we get a large amount of rain. It leaks a little, not alot, just enough to piss me off.
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03-24-2008, 02:09 PM | #7 |
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how's the drainage/slope around your house? buried downspout drain run off away from foundation?
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03-24-2008, 02:11 PM | #8 |
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03-24-2008, 08:30 PM | #9 | |
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There is so much drylock on it from years past that it is just seeping thru the finest of cracks, all except the floor part.
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03-24-2008, 08:37 PM | #10 |
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You can't make concrete water tight with other concrete based products. You need some silicone, concrete sealant, or even a polyurethane to seal it. Wait until it dries up and pour some polyurethane down the crack. Then when that has dried, put some silicone on top.
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03-24-2008, 08:44 PM | #11 | |
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4 years ago I dug out the cracks that were obivious, these are very close by them. I'm thinking the others sealed up so well that the old concrete was honeycomb in a few places that with so much drylock over the years it's seeping thru it. Keep in mind the foundation was poured in the 40's with plywood panels and they used any damn thing they could find, rock, big rocks, brick, even rock that looks like sandstone . I'm afraid the only way to stop it is to dig into it to see if it was honeycomb when it was poured and chip it away just enough to replace it . Either that or keep doing the drylock every 2 years...... that gets old. BTW, can you apply that stuff with a pain gun on the walls, it is rather thick stuff ?
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John Lennon Last edited by ROYC75; 03-24-2008 at 08:49 PM.. |
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03-24-2008, 08:47 PM | #12 |
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Phil, The walls are very light, I can seal them with drylock, it's the flor part I'm stumped on. Like I said, it has that support beam on that small block of concrete poured as a footer. It's leaking around it, and I'm getting a rusty look to the water in it and the floor concrete looks this way when you chip it up.
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03-24-2008, 10:05 PM | #13 |
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If the concrete has been cracked up significantly by all this seepage the only way you're going to be able to permanently fix it is to cut and re-pour the area of your floor. There's really no way to "fix" cracked concrete.
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03-24-2008, 11:24 PM | #14 | |
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I guess I could pour a new floor on that part of the room, it's a small room that is blocked offand has a small 3' tall concrete wall to the side. This room use to be a storage room for storing coal years ago when a coal furnace was in the house. The size of the room is around 5' x 10' , I'm not sure if it would take much to rough up the floor and repour a new section of good concrete an inch thick. The room closes off, I plan to continue using it as a small storage, but I need it dry. But like I said
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03-24-2008, 11:36 PM | #15 | |
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