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Old 06-06-2006, 03:19 PM  
'Hamas' Jenkins 'Hamas' Jenkins is offline
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A Question for the Gearheads

I want to change the oil in my 1995 Taurus. I assume that this is fairly straightforward. I'm a slightly bigger than average person, 6'2" 185. I assume that all I need is the requisite oil (5W-30), a pan to drain it out, and maybe one of those things with wheels on it to slide out from under the vehicle. Can I conceivably do this without having to jack the car up??
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:21 PM   #2
4th and Long 4th and Long is offline
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Highly unlikely.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Hamas' Jenkins
I want to change the oil in my 1995 Taurus. I assume that this is fairly straightforward. I'm a slightly bigger than average person, 6'2" 185. I assume that all I need is the requisite oil (5W-30), a pan to drain it out, and maybe one of those things with wheels on it to slide out from under the vehicle. Can I conceivably do this without having to jack the car up??
You may want to change your oil filter as well.

I've changed the oil on my cars without jacking them up. Just a question of ground clearance.

Oh, and take some before and after pictures.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:23 PM   #4
HC_Chief HC_Chief is offline
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Doubtful. I'm about your size (6'2", 205#)... I have to jack up my TL to change the oil.

I recommend you purchase a good hydraulic pump jack and jack stands. The cost up front is negligible when you consider the $ savings of self-performed oil changes.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:23 PM   #5
StcChief StcChief is offline
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It Really depends on where the filter is located. Reach from above / under.... to change it.

5W30 How many miles on car?

The creeper (wheel thing) not likely needed just slide on cardboard.

Where are you taking old oil - Valvoline will take it in
another container....Old laundry soap liquid jug works.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:25 PM   #6
4th and Long 4th and Long is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HC_Chief
Doubtful. I'm about your size (6'2", 205#)... I have to jack up my TL to change the oil.

I recommend you purchase a good hydraulic pump jack and supports for the car. The cost up front is negligible when you consider the $ savings of self-performed oil changes.
A pair of ramps works just as well and they are also cost effective. Just don't drive off the end of the things and you'll be fine.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:27 PM   #7
HC_Chief HC_Chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th and Long
A pair of ramps works just as well and they are also cost effective. Just don't drive off the end of the things and you'll be fine.
I am leary of ramps... they tend to slip when you drive up onto them and you have to block your rear tires. A pair of 3-ton jack stands can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes for approx $20.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:30 PM   #8
'Hamas' Jenkins 'Hamas' Jenkins is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HC_Chief
I am leary of ramps... they tend to slip when you drive up onto them and you have to block your rear tires. A pair of 3-ton jack stands can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes for approx $20.
Are these hydraulic jacks or the old type farm jacks that can slip out and crack your skull open like Gallagher on a Watermelon??

BTW, thanks for all the advice.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:36 PM   #9
4th and Long 4th and Long is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HC_Chief
I am leary of ramps... they tend to slip when you drive up onto them and you have to block your rear tires. A pair of 3-ton jack stands can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes for approx $20.
In the 25 years that I've been changing my own oil, I have never had that happen to me. I'm calling operator error on this one.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:38 PM   #10
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I change the oil and filter on my 2003 Altima without jacking it up. Really depends more on the filter location than anything.

Jack stands:

http://www.johndow.com/jpeg/Jack%20Stands/JS3.jpg

You need a jack to set the car on the stands (a pair for one axel). Trust the stands, not the jack.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th and Long
In the 25 years that I've been changing my own oil, I have never had that happen to me. I'm calling operator error on this one.
The problem with ramps is clearance. On newer models, I end up hitting the ramp with the bumper before the wheel reaches the ramp.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:41 PM   #12
HC_Chief HC_Chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Hamas' Jenkins
Are these hydraulic jacks or the old type farm jacks that can slip out and crack your skull open like Gallagher on a Watermelon??

BTW, thanks for all the advice.
lol

I'm refering to "real" hydraulic jacks... like this:

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Old 06-06-2006, 03:42 PM   #13
Gonzo Gonzo is offline
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The filter on a Ford Taurus is located to the side of the oil pan, (drivers side depending on the engine). It would take far less time to just jack the car up instead of struggling to reach the filter. Also, when removing the filter, check to make sure the rubber gasket came off with it. If you have not changed the oil in a while, the gasket tends to stick. Now when applying the new filter, put a film of new oil around that gasket to make sure you have a good seal. I reccomend a fram oil filter because it has the back check valve in it to keep more oil in the engine after shut down. This function promotes less wear upon start up. 5w30 is a the optimum oil to use in the winter because it is a little thinner and takes less engine effort to lubricate. You may use 10 w 30 in the summer but it does not really matter.

I do not reccomend using ramps, they are far more dangerous than a good hydraulic jack. I use a sears craftsman 4 ton jack myself. Always use jack stands in case of jack failure. The jacking point on a Taurus is directly behind either front tire on the frame pivot point. It should say "jack" on the body seam right under the car. Do not body lift the vehicle unless you like not opening your doors.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:44 PM   #14
HC_Chief HC_Chief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4th and Long
In the 25 years that I've been changing my own oil, I have never had that happen to me. I'm calling operator error on this one.
You can call whatever you want... fact is ramps are inherrently less safe than jack stands. If you place ramps on smooth concrete, like poured treated cement you find in most garages, the chance of slippage is extremely high. Then consider front-end clearance on the vehicle: the front bumper on many vehicles sticks out far & low enough to "scoot" the ramps prior to the vehicl safely reaching the top. On top of that, you still have to chock the rear tires.... unless you like risking your life on the transmission and/or emergency brake alone.
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:47 PM   #15
StcChief StcChief is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdcox
I change the oil and filter on my 2003 Altima without jacking it up. Really depends more on the filter location than anything.

Jack stands:

http://www.johndow.com/jpeg/Jack%20Stands/JS3.jpg

You need a jack to set the car on the stands (a pair for one axel). Trust the stands, not the jack.
Changing oil for over 25 years, never used ramps, or floor jack/stands for that.
I guess I've been lucky being skinny with long arms to get under car.
Really like the accessible filter from either end. These are sometimes work by feel alone....
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