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Old 07-23-2011, 10:09 AM  
Baconeater Baconeater is offline
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Simple AC tips to help keep your cool this summer

Hey CP peeps, I'm willing to bet some of you have noticed it's freaking hot outside. And since I've spent the last year going to school for HVAC, I thought I'd share some things I've learned about air conditioning systems. If you don't think yours is operating properly, here are some simple things you can check out on your own.

First off, check your outside unit. On it you will find two copper tubes coming from the house and into the unit. Touch them both.

The larger one (low side), should be insulated and cold to the touch, similar to a can of beer coming out of the fridge. If it's warm, or frosted, it likely means that your refrigerant level is off. Call a professional.

The smaller one (high side) should be warm, but not uncomfortable to the touch. If it's hot enough that you can't leave your fingers on it, it very likely means that your condensing coil is dirty, and it can't properly release the heat that the system is trying to remove from your home, and it's not going to run efficiently ($$$$). It can also make the compressor run hotter than normal, thereby shortening its life (more $$$$).

If your coil is as dirty as the one pictured here



you can make a significant improvement in performance simply by shutting the system down and thoroughly hosing it off, but the most effective way to clean one is from the inside with a high-pressure spray tip since dirt, cotton from cottonwood trees and even lawn clippings can get embedded into the coil. This is also something that can be done yourself, but if you're not comfortable opening up the unit, call a pro to have it cleaned. Again, let me emphasize that the system needs to be SHUT OFF while doing this. The condenser should be cleaned at least once a year, and maybe more depending on the conditions.

Lastly, a few things on airflow, which is key to keeping your home cool.

Check the furnace filter. Does it look more like a throw rug than the filter you stuck in there six months ago? Time to change it out. In the summertime, I recommend the cheap, flimsy ones. While that super duper pleated hypo-allergenic $25 one that Paul Harvey recommended may do a better job of cleaning your air, it's only because it's letting less air through it. There are better ways to clean your air other than choking off your airflow.

Is your humidifier bypass (if equipped with one) closed? Check for a 6" round duct going into your humidifier. There should be a handle somewhere on it, or on the humidifier itself, and it should be marked "summer/winter" or "high/low". Turn it to the summer/low position, or if it's not marked, the handle should be perpendicular to the airflow. Having this open when the AC is running can kill your efficiency by as much as 25% on its own.

You also want to keep all your supply/return vents clear, and open. Your system is designed to move a certain amount of air, and closing off a bunch of vents isn't necessarily going to help keep the other rooms any cooler. If you notice significant differences in temperatures from room to room, try turning the thermostat to "Fan On". On that setting, the AC will still cycle normally as needed to maintain the desired temperature, but the fan will run continuously which may help keep all rooms a more consistent temperature.

Hopefully these suggestions help some of you, I know they've made a difference in my house.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:03 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugeater View Post
That's the same issue as differences from room-to-room which I touched on in the last paragraph. Open the vents, and leave the thermostat on the "Fan On" setting for a couple days and see if it makes a difference.
The issue with that is that I don't really want my basement being cooled to 60 degrees either, so I'd really prefer not to open those vents up. There aren't any returns down there (or on the 2nd floor for that matter), which would seem like it's part of the problem.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:08 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by DaFace View Post
The issue with that is that I don't really want my basement being cooled to 60 degrees either, so I'd really prefer not to open those vents up. There aren't any returns down there (or on the 2nd floor for that matter), which would seem like it's part of the problem.
Ah yeah, that's kinda screwed up. If it was me I'd put in a return down there to get that cool air circulating throughout the house.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:41 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFace View Post
The issue with that is that I don't really want my basement being cooled to 60 degrees either, so I'd really prefer not to open those vents up. There aren't any returns down there (or on the 2nd floor for that matter), which would seem like it's part of the problem.
Yes this is a lot of the problem.

If your basement isn't finished it shouldn't be that hard or expensive to add a return down there. And depending on the layout of the main floor you could probably add a return to the main floor as well as long as the basement isn't finished. You would just have to lose a little space in a closet that backs up to a hallway, living room, or den. Returns are not suppose to be put in kitchens or garages.
Also your house sounds like it should of been zoned or had two seperate systems.
And there is also small systems called ductless mini-splits that can be easily installed on an exterior wall if one is available.
And like Bugeater said if you leave your fan in the on position it will circulate the air in your house constantly helping the consistent temp throughout the entire house.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by BWillie007 View Post
Tried all of this, my bill is still going to be 450 this month. 2000 square foot house. 75% insulated windows. What the f***
Well need more info.
What do you have the thermostat set at?
How is the insulation in the attic and walls?
How old is the house?
Do you have kids that are constantly going in and out?
What kind of airflow are you getting out of the registers? Thinking you may have a lot of duct leakage. If your registers/vents are in the floor check your crawl space and see if it is nice and cool in there.
Is the system cycling on and off or just running all the time?
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:27 AM   #95
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Yesterday, I get a call from the fiance while at work. She says it's making a loud "screeching noise", and we were either going to have to turn it off overnight (as it was so loud), or place a service call. So, when I get home, I get to tinkering. It's making the really loud screeching noise alright, sounds like the fan's causing it, but not like something's stuck in there per se. Anyway, I get to opening the box that has the fuses in it (and the place where the noise is coming from). When you open the front "gate"/lid to this, the machine turns off, as there is a button that is depressed by having it on there. I take a look inside... no idea. Looks fine to me. However, NOW all the unit does is "hum" like it's attempting to start the blower. This occurred at midnight last night. We went to our upstairs room (wall AC unit FTW!), and then I came down today and it started right up when I pushed the button manually. Unfortunately, stupid me forgot to turn off the "Auto" function on our thermostat, so when it turned off at the right temperature today, it now only hums again, no blower. The reason I give so much background is because it pretty clearly looks like an issue with the motor getting the fan to work. Any thoughts here? Did the overnight allow the unit to "cool off" (no pun intended)? Or did I just get lucky? I'd really like to avoid an expensive house call if I can afford it, but also don't want to get too deep into the electrical system of something so important. Massive rep to any helpers!
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:24 AM   #96
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:40 AM   #97
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Yeah, your furnace has a safety switch that shuts it down when you remove the bottom cover. You can override it by running some tape over it.

It may be a bad start capacitor that's keeping the blower motor from starting, if you feel gutsy enough you may be able to get it going with your hand, I've done that with condenser fans before. But make sure you leave the t-stat on FAN ON so it will just keep going until you can get it repaired. And do this AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Screeching is probably from a bad bushing in the blower motor, you may be able to buy it some time with some lubricant. But you're most likely looking at a new blower motor and cap.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:43 AM   #98
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Awesome, thanks for the advice. To get that fan going myself, could I stick something in there and get it spinning?

And, my ultra-n00b, but "be safe" question.. any risk of electrical problems doing this? I imagine I just tape the button down, it starts humming, then I stick something in there and prompt/nudge the fan?
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:43 AM   #99
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Or it's possible that the blower motor completely seized up, then you're screwed unless you can find a place that sells replacements that is open on Sunday or a service company that has the one you need on hand.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:47 AM   #100
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Awesome, thanks for the advice. To get that fan going myself, could I stick something in there and get it spinning?

And, my ultra-n00b, but "be safe" question.. any risk of electrical problems doing this? I imagine I just tape the button down, it starts humming, then I stick something in there and prompt/nudge the fan?
I can't say for sure without seeing the furnace, but most of them have the majority of the electrical components in the compartment above the fan. Often the control board is in that lower area, you want to be sure not to screw that up in any way.

And I'd just use my hand, give it a good spin and get it the hell out of there.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:50 AM   #101
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Bug, you are a God among men. I went down there, removed the filter piece (giving me access to the fan), and put the front "gate" on the opening that has the fuse box and fan in it. This depressed the button, and I saw the fan start to attempt to spin... reached in, gave about a half spin (handy-dandy knob sticking out of the middle), and all is cool. You just got me sex tonight, methinks. And for that, I say: my rep... take it.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:51 AM   #102
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Awesome. That cap is definitely bad then. What about the screeching noise, is that still present?
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:57 AM   #103
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Bug, you are a God among men. I went down there, removed the filter piece (giving me access to the fan), and put the front "gate" on the opening that has the fuse box and fan in it. This depressed the button, and I saw the fan start to attempt to spin... reached in, gave about a half spin (handy-dandy knob sticking out of the middle), and all is cool. You just got me sex tonight, methinks. And for that, I say: my rep... take it.
This is one of the strangest wingman stories I've ever heard.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:59 AM   #104
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No, it's intermittent to be sure. When it does happen (probably about 25% of the time... has yet to do it today though) it's SUPER loud... imagine like what a fanbelt on a car sounds like when it screeches. Can hear it throughout the house. Not sure what it's all about.. light doesn't appear to show anything in there impeding the fan (which could also explain the difficulty starting).

What do you think a replacement start capacitor would run us? Is it something a novice could do? I'm always looking to learn more about home improvement, as a young homeowner.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:59 AM   #105
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This is one of the strangest wingman stories I've ever heard.


I'll take it where I can get it.
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