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Old 11-20-2012, 07:37 PM  
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Electricians: Chandelier went out but it's getting current

Couple of months ago our family room chandelier went out cold turkey. I'm just now getting time to get to it.

I originally thought it was the switch as I bought one of those non contact voltmeters and it went crazy at t he chandelier. Took off the dimmer and it went crazy inside of the switch box also.

Replaced the switch at Lowes and NOTHING. It still went crazy at the chandelier.

Thought, "that's odd." replaced one bulb and nothing. Tried the same bulb in another room's chandelier and it worked. Any ideas? I'm hurting here for suggestions.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by UberSparky View Post
Get a real meter, a cheap one will work. Check hot to ground, then hot to neutral. Should get 120 both ways.
This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:42 PM   #17
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Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberSparky View Post
Just caught part about dimmer. Dimmers go bad often. Call 785 640 3126 in morning. That's my work number I will help you out.
if I understood him right, he replaced the dimmer.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:48 PM   #19
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If he made up new switch with power on may have "smoked" it. That's a professional term. Should not work a dimmer "hot". Instructions will verify this.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:49 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by chefsos View Post
This.

You can get one at Harbor Freight or somewhere like it for 3 or 4 bucks. Hell, they'll probably give you one if you buy a hammer or something.
Walmart has a cheap one as well.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:51 PM   #21
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Yeah. I replaced the dimmer.
Had wife use the non contact thing and when I touched the wires it went crazy. When I stopped the connection it died down. I'm not an electrician but I'd touch wires for a split second and it'd go bat shit crazy. Disconnect for 3-4 seconds and do it again. Same results.

The chandelier base is about 20 feet high. Don't have a ladder that goes that high.
Replaced the old dimmer and it basically did the same as the new one. So took the new one back out because the older one was a custom one with heat syncs. Left the old one in there.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberSparky View Post
Walmart has a cheap one as well.
You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:55 PM   #23
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it's his work #... I do the same thing with tatts. Helps with business anyways.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:57 PM   #24
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You probably want to PM him your number instead of leaving it out on the board...
I am sure you are right. If I was better on a computer I would have more posts. I don't even know what PM is.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:00 PM   #25
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Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:03 PM   #26
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With new information I believe your assessment that it is not the switch. Unfortunately most likely problem lies 20 feet up in the box.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:04 PM   #27
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Even if the lights themselves are showing hot?
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by wutamess View Post
Uber... So even if the thingymabob goes bat shit crazy when it's supposed to, you still think it's the neutral problem?
It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberSparky View Post
It goes crazy because you still have a hot. Neutral can't be tested with that thing.
Ugh... so electrician needs to be called with a 20 foot ladder?
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:13 PM   #30
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In box in ceiling you have a switched hot and neutral. If the tick tester reads at bulb when switch is on and not when its off, it is reasonable to assume you have power. Only remaining answer if this is true(need multimeter to be sure) is loose neutral in switch box, fixture box, or previous device box that is still working but not providing neutral down line to chandelier.
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