Carpenters, Woodworkers, Hobbyists - a question

[Braincase]

Has anybody here worked with "stabilizing" woods? I'm buying a nice set of spalted maple, and I need to know if you can laminate it after you stabilize it, or if you should laminate first, followed by stabilizing.

Also, what do y'all use to stabilize?

For those that wonder wtf I'm talking about, there are some highly figured woods that require an infusion of acrylic to push out the moisture and prevent decay, etc. Spalted woods have been infected with a fungus and the colors and patterns are spectacular.

Here is a piece of spalted maple...

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/attachment.php?attachmentid=37777&stc=1

[Phobia]

Are you looking for a chemical stabilizer? Is that what you're asking?

[Braincase]

Are you looking for a chemical stabilizer? Is that what you're asking?

Something to keep the wood from degrading and checking. Have you ever used acrylics?

[Phobia]

Something to keep the wood from degrading and checking. Have you ever used acrylics?

Not in this application. I'm participating in this thread because I'm hoping to learn something. I've not worked with spalted hardwoods.

Sounds like fun. What do you plan to build?

[jspchief]

What is your intended use for the wood?

By "laminate" are you referring to a Poly coat, or some other finish?

[Braincase]

Not in this application. I'm participating in this thread because I'm hoping to learn something. I've not worked with spalted hardwoods.

Sounds like fun. What do you plan to build?


What is your intended use for the wood?

By "laminate" are you referring to a Poly coat, or some other finish?

I'm building guitar bodies. Solid body eletric guitars are anywhere from an 1'1/2" to 2" thick. I'll laminate the spalted maple onto either alder, ash, mahogany or walnut using luthiers glue (www.stewmac.com). I'll rough out the outline with my dremel, then use a 9" bandsaw to cut the outline. The neck pocket is the tricky part, but I've got acryllic templates to follow on that front. Same goes for the control cavity. I'm guessing I'll want to laminate first then use the acrylic to prevent tearout.

[tyton75]

what does "Spalted" mean?

[Phobia]

Sounds cool. I don't know how long you've been doing this nor what your woodshop looks like. Holler at me if you need to use any tools.

[Phobia]

what does "Spalted" mean?

Spalted woods have been infected with a fungus and the colors and patterns are spectacular.

Here is a piece of spalted maple...

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/attachment.php?attachmentid=37777&stc=1

[jspchief]

I'm building guitar bodies. Solid body eletric guitars are anywhere from an 1'1/2" to 2" thick. I'll laminate the spalted maple onto either alder, ash, mahogany or walnut using luthiers glue (www.stewmac.com (http://www.stewmac.com)). I'll rough out the outline with my dremel, then use a 9" bandsaw to cut the outline. The neck pocket is the tricky part, but I've got acryllic templates to follow on that front. Same goes for the control cavity. I'm guessing I'll want to laminate first then use the acrylic to prevent tearout.

Ok, by laminate, you mean veneer. I wasn't following.

I think a product like Pentacryl (http://http://www.preservation-solutions.com/faq-pentacryl.php) might be along the lines of what you're looking for.

I don't think I'd rely on the acrylic to prevent tearout though.

[Lzen]

what does "Spalted" mean?

It's to make it more flavorful. You know, like spalted nuts.

[Lzen]

I'm building guitar bodies. Solid body eletric guitars are anywhere from an 1'1/2" to 2" thick. I'll laminate the spalted maple onto either alder, ash, mahogany or walnut using luthiers glue (www.stewmac.com). I'll rough out the outline with my dremel, then use a 9" bandsaw to cut the outline. The neck pocket is the tricky part, but I've got acryllic templates to follow on that front. Same goes for the control cavity. I'm guessing I'll want to laminate first then use the acrylic to prevent tearout.

You are quite the adventurer. Sounds like quite a project. Lemme know how they turn out. Maybe I'll have you build me a bass guitar.

[jspchief]

I think you'll probably need to veneer both sides (front and back) other wise, you'll have an unbalanced piece of wood that will expand and contract differently from front to back, resulting in warping.

Veneer is not my area of expertise, and veneering guitars isn't even in the same ballpark...

[Braincase]

Spalted woods have been infected with a fungus and the colors and patterns are spectacular.

Here is a piece of spalted maple...

http://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/attachment.php?attachmentid=37777&stc=1

You've got a sarcastic streak at least a furlong wide.

[Phobia]

You've got a sarcastic streak at least a furlong wide.

Yeah, but he deserved it. Heh.

[Braincase]

I think you'll probably need to veneer both sides (front and back) other wise, you'll have an unbalanced piece of wood that will expand and contract differently from front to back, resulting in warping.

Veneer is not my area of expertise, and veneering guitars isn't even in the same ballpark...

I'll glue it, using pipe clamps, all around the pieces I'm joining. The whole point of using the acrylic is to minimize the expansion and contraction.

[jspchief]

I'll glue it, using pipe clamps, all around the pieces I'm joining. The whole point of using the acrylic is to minimize the expansion and contraction.

I'd still recommend veneering both front and back. Even with acrylic and poly, a veneered front and a non-veneered back will have uneven wood movement, likely resulting in warping.

[Baby Lee]

Minwax and Bondo both make wood hardeners for this type of application. Should be able to google spalted and minwax or spalted and bondo [maybe add hardener in there for good measure] and get some more info.

Also, be careful sanding, as the spores that led to the spalting could become airborne and fug up your respiratory tract.

[Braincase]

I'd still recommend veneering both front and back. Even with acrylic and poly, a veneered front and a non-veneered back will have uneven wood movement, likely resulting in warping.

Thanks. The piece is 5/8" thick. Does that make a difference?

And to answer Baby Lee's comments - there's a lot of tonewoods out there that are known for toxicity, primarily cocobolo, so I'll be wearing the mask when I work on it. Masks, Safety Glasses and Earplugs...

[jspchief]

Thanks. The piece is 5/8" thick. Does that make a difference?

And to answer Baby Lee's comments - there's a lot of tonewoods out there that are known for toxicity, primarily cocobolo, so I'll be wearing the mask when I work on it. Masks, Safety Glasses and Earplugs...
I honestly don't know how the thickness of the wood affects...like I said, veneer is not my thing. I do know that even when veneering over plywood, it is recommended that you do both sides, and hardwood is nowhere near as stable as plywood. You may be able to use an alternate material on the back (if cost is a concern), maybe just a simply maple veneer, but I think it will need to be something that acts similar.

[Monk]

Braincase;

I'm new to posting on the board, but I may be able to help somewhat.

I build and repair violins, viola's and cellos. No guitars but the principle is the same

You will want to laminate first. Use a high grade hide glue 315 or higher.
If you need info on making your own glue let me know, avoid the liquid hide glue by titebond as the chemicals in it cause it to breakdown.

When I carve the scroll or F holes or cut in the purfilling I use a wash of hide glue or clear sprit varnish to the area. Both can easily be removed later.

Sorry getting long on this if you want to email or pm me I will be glade to help all I can.

[Phobia]

ROFL

I don't think I've ever seen a question go unanswered on the Planet.

Awesome.