Electrical question here ( dryer ) ....... 220volts.

[ROYC75]

Our dryer has stopped working, isn't getting hot like it should. I took the top cover off to check the heating coils, they get hot, cherry hot. It would dry a load of clothes and the next load will not dry. Wouldn't get hot at all ........ It's been acting up for 2 days now but just working strange.

The air vents are clear, has good air flow thru the lint screen and all duct work. Mt wife kept it on so it could tumble drythe next load, but now the damn thing won't even come on, at all now.It appears that I jave no power at all to the dryer.

Knowing 110 pulls one side of the dryer, the other 110 runs the coils, the breaker hasn't tripped. Is it possible I have a bad breaker in the box ?

Anybody with an idea on the problem ?

[kcfan82]

You can go to ace hardware and buy a voltmeter for $10 o $20 and test the outlet to see if you're getting 210 constant.

[ROYC75]

Is it possible the breaker in the box could be going bad or is bad ?

[kcfan82]

Is it possible the breaker in the box could be going bad or is bad ?

Sure it is, I live in a 30 year old house and I've had wiring itself fry on me too.

Did you say this is intermitent or is the dryer just dead now?

[NCarlsCorner2]

Our dryer has stopped working, isn't getting hot like it should. I took the top cover off to check the heating coils, they get hot, cherry hot. It would dry a load of clothes and the next load will not dry. Wouldn't get hot at all ........ It's been acting up for 2 days now but just working strange.

The air vents are clear, has good air flow thru the lint screen and all duct work. Mt wife kept it on so it could tumble drythe next load, but now the damn thing won't even come on, at all now.It appears that I jave no power at all to the dryer.

Knowing 110 pulls one side of the dryer, the other 110 runs the coils, the breaker hasn't tripped. Is it possible I have a bad breaker in the box ?

Anybody with an idea on the problem ?
Is there a blower motor that blows the hot air into the dryer, if so it may work for the first load and quit once it gets hot, if the fan motor quits the dryer will go out on high limit, just a thought.

[Moon§hiner]

might have to pull it out and take off the back panel...some dryers have a resettable limit switch when it runs over temp...just because the lint screen is clean doesn't mean that it's breathing properly....as said above, a decent volt/ohm meter will tell you what is up.

[ROYC75]

The dryer is dead now........

Last week it did this, they came and checked it out, replaced the blower cage fan, cleaned out the ventilation lines to the lint screen.... Worked until today, doing the same thing, not heating up and now is dead.

I can't get nothing to come on and the breaker hasn't tripped..

[NCarlsCorner2]

The dryer is dead now........

Last week it did this, they came and checked it out, replaced the blower cage fan, cleaned out the ventilation lines to the lint screen.... Worked until today, doing the same thing, not heating up and now is dead.

I can't get nothing to come on and the breaker hasn't tripped..

It could be out on high limit and it wont come on until it is reset or replaced, hopefully you had someone that knows what he is doing replace the motor, because it is important to get the same rpm motor.

[plbrdude]

could be an open limit, could also be door switch. or timer. doubt it actually has anything to do with the heating coil. the most likely senario with a limit or heating coil though is it should tumble but not get hot. not overly familier with dryers but your motor very well may be 220. it could split off and be a 110 but i'm thinkin not. 220 less of an amp draw. your heating coil definately runs off 220. the only 110 part of your dryer would be the door switch or the timer. 110 on one side and 110 on the other doesn't always add up to 220 in the electrical world. best to call a qualified appliance man. or get a new dryer.

[chief52]

As was earlier stated, purchasing a volt meter would be the first thing I would do. Maybe the dryer is fine and the circuit providing the 240 is the problem. While we commonly refer to the voltages we use as 110 and 220, it is actually 120 and 240. Probably the dryer, but you could have a "bad connection" or wiring problem.

P.S. Any other "electrical" issues in the house?

[ROYC75]

As was earlier stated, purchasing a volt meter would be the first thing I would do. Maybe the dryer is fine and the circuit providing the 240 is the problem. While we commonly refer to the voltages we use as 110 and 220, it is actually 120 and 240. Probably the dryer, but you could have a "bad connection" or wiring problem.

P.S. Any other "electrical" issues in the house?

None that I am aware of at this time..........

Got the same repair man coming back out to fix what he didn't get done last time.......... :banghead:

[Dartgod]

None that I am aware of at this time..........

Got the same repair man coming back out to fix what he didn't get done last time.......... :banghead:C'mon, dude. He has a reputation to uphold, you know.

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/4/47/Maytag_repairman.jpg

[HonestChieffan]

Its been taken over by Embarq.

You need to shut off its modem for three minutes, shut down the motherboard, reboot twice, call the help desk, change your email address, and sit on your front porch nude and sing the New Mexico State Fightsong.

All bad things begin at Embarq.

[Baby Lee]

I'll just relate one diagnosis I had, and one my parents had.

Mine was that the heating element came loose from one of it's stays and was shorting out on the stainless steel drum. It was the type of element that formed a ring just adjacent to the back of the drum. It shorted every 10 seconds or so, making it so it couldn't get up to full heat.

My parents had a problem with the moisture sensor. Their's went the other way, where the element was constantly full power, seriously overdrying everything.

[Micjones]

Sounds like a bad door switch.

[Lzen]

Stick your tongue in the slot to check it. ;)

[ROYC75]

C'mon, dude. He has a reputation to uphold, you know.

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/4/47/Maytag_repairman.jpg


Ha Ha ..... funny thing is it is a Maytag.......... :cuss:

Seriously, this is the only time we have had any trouble with it, it's 5 years old and the last 2 weeks it's been the shits.....

[ROYC75]

Stick your tongue in the slot to check it. ;)

I did that, I had the biggest, hotest fart in some time. What a relief it was.

[ROYC75]

Sounds like a bad door switch.


I can hold it in and it still doesn't work, guess I could take it out and hotwire it to see.

[Simply Red]

Oh, I thought this was a thread on hair-dryers. Carry on.

[Lzen]

I did that, I had the biggest, hotest fart in some time. What a relief it was.

Not that slot. ROFL

[ROYC75]

OK, FYI, for those who want to know in case you ever run into a similar problem.

The repairman said that by putting the new fan in 2 weeks ago, it was producing more heat than it was use to and the thermostat went bad and blew the internal fuse as well. Why 2 weeks later ?

Another 85.00 down the drain, err, out the vent.

[plbrdude]

OK, FYI, for those who want to know in case you ever run into a similar problem.

The repairman said that by putting the new fan in 2 weeks ago, it was producing more heat than it was use to and the thermostat went bad and blew the internal fuse as well. Why 2 weeks later ?

Another 85.00 down the drain, err, out the vent.


in theory a new fan should have moved more air, therefore less heat. but i'll take his word for it. in the world of elctrical things who knows.

[ROYC75]

in theory a new fan should have moved more air, therefore less heat. but i'll take his word for it. in the world of elctrical things who knows.

I agee....... that's what I was thinking. He said it would appear the fuse would have burned out before the thermo went too.......

Just my life, wacky and confused all the time, anything and everything is possible.

[RJ]

Yeah, 220.....221, whatever it takes.