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007
10-10-2007, 04:20 PM
Do we have any lawn experts on here? I have been fighting my yard for 2 years to get grass growing and am having ZERO results. I even paid a lawn company this year for fertilizing and insect/weed control. The weeds were down but the lawn itself looks even worse than it did this time last year.

I have so many bare areas I can't even keep seed around because mother nature always pulls his practical joke on me by sending a downpour the day after I seed and washing it all away.

I don't want a perfect lawn just a decent lawn.

KCFalcon59
10-10-2007, 04:25 PM
Have you gotten your soil tested. Might needs some nutrients. Maybe it has too much. Maybe a new layer of topsoil. Or you could try this:

chiefscraze
10-10-2007, 04:29 PM
Check the PH of the soil, then adjust accordingly. Also, if you have really poor soil you will need to use a lot more fertilizer than what you would normally want to apply because it may leach out of the soil faster.

Bugeater
10-10-2007, 04:40 PM
Asphalt.

FalseStart
10-10-2007, 04:48 PM
:LOL:

Extra Point
10-10-2007, 04:57 PM
Besides asphalt, Throw down 10 lbs lime per 5,000 sq ft. Rent an aerator, and do it to it. Put down grub killer, wait until week. Put down winterizer fertilizer, keeping the lawn semi-damp for at least 10 days. (Will be too cold, too soon, to plant seed, so don't even think about it.)

Seed the first weekend in April, with fertilizer that's does NOT have weed killer. Wait six weeks, throw down weed and feed. Throw down greening fertilizer the last weekend in July.

Reseed on Labor Day, and put down seeding fertilizer with the seed. Keep the lawn wet for 7 days.

Make damned sure you don't put down too much fertilizer, and make sure God or you throw 1/2" water on it at least once a week, unless otherwise specified!

If you don't want to put in the work, then live with a crummy lawn!

FalseStart
10-10-2007, 04:59 PM
Besides asphalt, Throw down 10 lbs lime per 5,000 sq ft. Rent an aerator, and do it to it. Put down grub killer, wait until week. Put down winterizer fertilizer, keeping the lawn semi-damp for at least 10 days. (Will be too cold, too soon, to plant seed, so don't even think about it.)

Seed the first weekend in April, with fertilizer that's does NOT have weed killer. Wait six weeks, throw down weed and feed. Throw down greening fertilizer the last weekend in July.

Reseed on Labor Day, and put down seeding fertilizer with the seed. Keep the lawn wet for 7 days.

Make damned sure you don't put down too much fertilizer, and make sure God or you throw 1/2" water on it at least once a week, unless otherwise specified!

If you don't want to put in the work, then live with a crummy lawn!

asphalt sounds easier ROFL

007
10-10-2007, 05:16 PM
Besides asphalt, Throw down 10 lbs lime per 5,000 sq ft. Rent an aerator, and do it to it. Put down grub killer, wait until week. Put down winterizer fertilizer, keeping the lawn semi-damp for at least 10 days. (Will be too cold, too soon, to plant seed, so don't even think about it.)

Seed the first weekend in April, with fertilizer that's does NOT have weed killer. Wait six weeks, throw down weed and feed. Throw down greening fertilizer the last weekend in July.

Reseed on Labor Day, and put down seeding fertilizer with the seed. Keep the lawn wet for 7 days.

Make damned sure you don't put down too much fertilizer, and make sure God or you throw 1/2" water on it at least once a week, unless otherwise specified!

If you don't want to put in the work, then live with a crummy lawn!

I don't mind the work if it works. I hate putting out all the work to have it look like the same POS every year.

You are the first person to ever spell out a plan to me. Appreciate that and REP.

Also, seed on labor day? Isn't it still a little too hot then?

007
10-10-2007, 05:17 PM
Asphalt.

The thought has crossed my mind in the past. Actually, pea gravel, but still.

Skip Towne
10-10-2007, 05:19 PM
Stay off of mine. :skip:

007
10-10-2007, 05:21 PM
Stay off of mine. :skip:
Is it as bare as your head?

JBucc
10-10-2007, 05:24 PM
Field Turf

Logical
10-10-2007, 05:26 PM
Actually moving into my present house I hired a gardener who put a lawn in for me for only about $200 plus the cost of lawn fertilizer and looking after if every day for the first 4 weeks. Only took him a few minutes each day after the initial work, total price about $400, money well spent.

He now comes out once a week cuts it and adds fertilizer in the spring for $120 a month, also prunes the other vegetation on the lawn. Money also well spent.

Extra Point
10-10-2007, 05:36 PM
Also, seed on labor day? Isn't it still a little too hot then?

Yeah, and keep it wet, as indicated. Thanks.

DenverChief
10-10-2007, 05:40 PM
https://www.patchperfect.com/ver19/index.asp?refcode=patch19

I used it this summer and it works like a charm ...took about 2 weeks for it to grow

Fairplay
10-10-2007, 05:46 PM
Hey Extra Point, isn't there about 5 weeks growing season or so?

Wouldn't there be enough time this fall to plant?

DenverChief
10-10-2007, 05:47 PM
https://www.patchperfect.com/ver19/index.asp?refcode=patch19

I used it this summer and it works like a charm ...took about 2 weeks for it to grow


I know the last post gets missed a lot...so I'm just reposting it here ...

Valiant
10-10-2007, 05:48 PM
Why??? You just have to mow that shit.. We had people paint our house and they matted the grass down during July.. Have not had to mow that shit since...


They also sell that astroturf stuff now that looks real.. It is used in arizona and the likes.. Just buy that and be done with it..

DenverChief
10-10-2007, 05:50 PM
Why??? You just have to mow that shit.. We had people paint our house and they matted the grass down during July.. Have not had to mow that shit since...


They also sell that astroturf stuff now that looks real.. It is used in arizona and the likes.. Just buy that and be done with it..


I don't mind mowing my lawn....in fact I enjoy the competition with the neighbors for the best looking lawn

Skip Towne
10-10-2007, 05:50 PM
Is it as bare as your head?
I have more hair than Mecca.

Skip Towne
10-10-2007, 05:51 PM
I don't mind mowing my lawn....in fact I enjoy the competition with the neighbors for the best looking lawn
We race to see who can go the longest without mowing.

DenverChief
10-10-2007, 05:53 PM
We race to see who can go the longest without mowing.


LMAO...no HOA?

Vegas_Dave
10-10-2007, 05:53 PM
I have to make sure to use Ironite 2 times a year since our soil lacks iron.

DenverChief
10-10-2007, 05:58 PM
I have to make sure to use Ironite 2 times a year since our soil lacks iron.


why not just leave a few steaks on the lawn?

Dayze
10-10-2007, 06:57 PM
I experienced the same thing; bought house 1 year old; previous home owners didn't get the sod going; therefore it went to crap. I tried /verticutting & overseeding last fall; nothing. Just nasty weeds.

So t his year beginning in August; i tilled the entire yard; removed all the old sod; graded it out etc....20lbs of seed on 1200 sq ft; 8lbs starter fertilizer; lay down 1/2" of peat moss/top dressing; water 6 times per day 10 minute intervals (check for even coverage; and vary time so water doesn't 'pool' on the surace; may need a multizone timer if you son't have an irrigations system); within 5 days i had sprouts;

Now it's a matter of getting it fed for winter; applying weed preventer early sprint '08; keeping weeds in check throughout next season; then over seed again.

As others have stated; maybe have a core of your soil tested.

sounds like you might need a complete lawn rehab; not just the ChemLawn lackeys....sometimes if you want sh*t done right...you gotta do it your self. It' even thicker now after weed and feed 2 weeks ago. Overseeded Labor Day weekend.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/dayzeofthenew/FrontBefore.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/dayzeofthenew/FrontCloseBefore.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/dayzeofthenew/AngledTilled.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/dayzeofthenew/FrontAfter.jpg

007
10-10-2007, 07:22 PM
https://www.patchperfect.com/ver19/index.asp?refcode=patch19

I used it this summer and it works like a charm ...took about 2 weeks for it to grow


$28 per 100 SQ feet? WHAT?

That had better be sprouting gold.

Dayze
10-10-2007, 07:26 PM
$28 per 100 SQ feet? WHAT?

That had better be sprouting gold.

no joke.
I spent $1.99/lb for overtime; suff was coming up in 5 days.

it'll take longer now because of the cool weather, but dang...5 friggin' days.

I think i've used that patchperfect stuff before/something similar; it works for tiny areas/spots...that's it IMO.

DenverChief
10-11-2007, 05:44 AM
no joke.
I spent $1.99/lb for overtime; suff was coming up in 5 days.

it'll take longer now because of the cool weather, but dang...5 friggin' days.

I think i've used that patchperfect stuff before/something similar; it works for tiny areas/spots...that's it IMO.


I'm tellin ya the stuff works great I had huge patches of brown in the backyard where I went nuts with the roundup to kill this SOB

http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/assets/organicweeds/prickly_sowthistle.jpg


got em all over the backyard due to being up against a greenbelt...anywho like I said I prolly killed half the back yard grass and threw down some ofthe that patch perfect and now I have good green grass

DenverChief
10-11-2007, 05:51 AM
$28 per 100 SQ feet? WHAT?

That had better be sprouting gold.


:spock: $20 plus $7 S&H sheesh you'd think that was a gold mine...I didn't even use all mine....$30 is a weeks worth of fast food for criscos sake

Chief Henry
10-11-2007, 06:31 AM
Get the lawn tested. Take the results to an Earl May store. Talk to one of there experts and that will help greatly. Get your lawn tested.
Test it in several areas for better accuracy.

I think one of the biggest mistakes guys do is that they don't put down the grub killer twice a year. Those f'n things can be brutal and make many brown spots. If yu see black birds in your yard, there eating the grubs.

I live right next to a County Conservation park.
Its property is to the west and directly in back.
This summer I've been fighting those dam moles.

The moles luv grubs. I've been going CARL on those fckers.

HonestChieffan
10-11-2007, 06:31 AM
That pretty green plant is a Sow Thistle.

Delano
10-11-2007, 06:45 AM
It may sound obvious, but make sure you match the grass type to your climate and amount of sun.

HonestChieffan
10-11-2007, 06:47 AM
Lime and starter fert

Use a fescue mix of three varieties of turf type fescue

Water well

Seed now...its perfect time.

cookster50
10-11-2007, 06:50 AM
As others have stated; maybe have a core of your soil tested.

sounds like you might need a complete lawn rehab; not just the ChemLawn lackeys....sometimes if you want sh*t done right...you gotta do it your self. It' even thicker now after weed and feed 2 weeks ago. Overseeded Labor Day weekend.

Congrats, looks good. How much time did that take you?
My house had crappy sod put in, I'd like to do something about it. Thinking about overseeding, but don't think that is good enough. I could till it all up(would be painful with a front tine tiller), but want to know how long it took you.

Dayze
10-11-2007, 08:17 AM
Congrats, looks good. How much time did that take you?
My house had crappy sod put in, I'd like to do something about it. Thinking about overseeding, but don't think that is good enough. I could till it all up(would be painful with a front tine tiller), but want to know how long it took you.

I believe it tooke me a good 2-3 weekends to till it all up, dispose of dead stuff, and prep for seed (grading out, etc). I used a front mounted tiller. I tilled it very well one day; then again the next; then one final time.The acutal tilling wasn't that bad; it was the removal of all the large chunks of stuff that didnt' get pulverized by the tiller that took the most time. It was the early part of August so heat too it out of me so I only worked in smaller time increments; and the sod had tons of the nylon mesh netting underneath that got tangled into a birds nest on the tiller, which I had to dismantle to remove. I've heard that one is supposed to remove the mesh prior to laying sod; but I've also hear you're supposed to keep it on....
Anyway; keep an out for the stuff. It's a pain.

In my area there is no yard waste pickup service; so I essnetially had to move all the large chnuks of grass/weeds etc/ dirt etc...to the back yard and sprad it out; subsequently mowing over it. Ultimately, I probably removed at least an inch of junk from the surfact of the lawn; mostly the dead sod.

I attempted a cheap way out last year; hoping a simple verticut and overseed would work; no joy. Nothing germinated...so I knew this year I'd have to basically start over.

Once I had all the large clumps of stuf removed, I raked it out several times; probably another weekends worth just to remove smaller rocks, any additional dead grass/weeds etc.; and raked until the clumps of dirt were no bigger than, say a marble etc.

Saturday of Labor day weekend i then applied about 8lbs of fertilizer (or any fertilizer with lots of phosphorous in it; I believe the nitrogen conten was 14); then 20lbs of Overtime fescue; then about 17 cu. ft ot peat moss was needed to cover about 1/4-1/2" on the surface; then water. The key is to not OVER water; sounds silly. But you want to keep it moist all the time. I used a timer at 10-minute intervals 6 times per day.

When I arrived home work the follwoing wednesday 09/05 I had a 'green haze' on my entire yard. Mowed it for the first time on 09/22.
Germination will take longer now that it's cooler; and hopefully if you get stuff to germinate, the stuff will establish a good deep root so it will survive and come back in the spring (even with the application of winterizer). This is why I overseeded in early Sept so I'd be able to get good growth, roots, one application of weed and feed, and winterizer down before the end of Nov.

Extra Point
10-11-2007, 08:31 AM
Hey Extra Point, isn't there about 5 weeks growing season or so?

Wouldn't there be enough time this fall to plant?

I don't think I'd do it. I reseeded short of a month ago, and the new stuff isn't thick at all. Of course, I planted a mix of two fine fescues to blend in with the ryegrass. It's good to have a mix between warm and cool season grasses, unless you're going with zoysia, which doesn't green up until late spring.

wutamess
10-11-2007, 08:57 AM
OK... Here' goes. I used to have your problem too.

Assuming your yard size is the same size as my front yard...

Mow your yard to about an inch (bag it).

Put down grub killer. Those fuggers will kill a yard in no time. To check to see if they're there pull up some grass and if it comes up easily like sod... GO TO WAR AGAINST THOSE FUGGERS.

At the same time... If you live in K.C. area it's probably not too late. OVERSEAD! Get a 25lb bag of "the best" grass seed you want. I like plantation fescue. Other's like Kentucky Blue. Anyhow get a 25lb bag of it.

Spread the entire bag of seed on the yard.

*** Put down an entire 15lb bag of Scott's starter fertilizer ***

Sprinkle the bagged clippings all over the yard to prevent garass seed from washing away.

Water it for an hour.
Keep the soil moist for 1-2 weeks then water once a day after that gradually giving it less & less for an additional 2 weeks.

Fertilizer lesson...
DON'T FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BAG. Most people follow the directions. I was making that mistake too until I read how to accurately fertilize my yard.

Assuming you're going with fescue/bluegrass... Your lawn will need 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sqf/yr. Having said that... the 3 numbers on your fertilizer bag means something.

Let's assume you have a 100lb bag of 25-15-20 fertilizer. That means that 25 lbs of it is nitrogen (the most important #). So to put down one pound of nitrogen on your yard per 1000sqf you'd want 4lbs of fertilizer to spread over the entire yard. YOU ONLY WANT TO PUT DOWN 1LB OF NITROGEN PER FERT SESSION.

Having said that... the other 2 numbers are for disease tollerance and building up for winter.

In the spring... use fertilizer with more nitrogen for early green up.


After my spring fertilizing, I use a ferts with less nitrogen and more of the other 2 #'s.

Scott's system works just fine. Have to put down the right amount though. I found out I wasn't using "enough" fert in fear of burning out my yard. Do it yourself... I've seen them fugg up more yards than just my neighbors.

http://i24.tinypic.com/t8p2xt.jpg
http://i20.tinypic.com/2iw0hdx.jpg

ChiTown
10-11-2007, 09:05 AM
Here's a question for you lawn experts:

Starting in late June/early July, I get a tremendous amount of what I call "lime-colored" (light green) grass. It dies out or fades around the end of September (I assume it is heat driven). It grows a lot longer than normal colored grass, but it's much thinner looking. It doesn't appear to be a weed, as it does resemble a normal blade of grass. I hate it because it takes away from the normal rich green look that I have throughout my yard.

Any thoughts on what this could be or how to control it?

Thanks!

wutamess
10-11-2007, 09:06 AM
Here's a question for you lawn experts:

Starting in late June/early July, I get a tremendous amount of what I call "lime-colored" (light green) grass. It dies out or fades around the end of September (I assume it is heat driven). It grows a lot longer than normal colored grass, but it's much thinner looking. It doesn't appear to be a weed, as it does resemble a normal blade of grass. I hate it because it takes away from the normal rich green look that I have throughout my yard.

Any thoughts on what this could be or how to control it?

Thanks!

Perennial rye grass more than likely. Have to deal with it. I use it to not make my zoysia (converted last year) make my yard totally brown.
Or it could be that stuff (I forgot it's name) it's actually a weed and you CAN get rid of it. Check the stalk of the blade to see if it's grass to the roots or if it has a broader "tree like" stalk and is easy to pull up by the root. If you can pull it up easily... go to your nearest nursery and ask them about removing it.

ChiTown
10-11-2007, 09:08 AM
Perennial rye grass more than likely. Have to deal with it. I use it to not make my zoysia (converted last year) make my yard totally brown.

Seriously?

Damn, the shit has spread rapidly in the last couple of years. So, short of burning it out and reseeding, there's nothing you can do?

wutamess
10-11-2007, 09:09 AM
Seriously?

Damn, the shit has spread rapidly in the last couple of years. So, short of burning it out and reseeding, there's nothing you can do?


See 39.

ChiTown
10-11-2007, 09:10 AM
Perennial rye grass more than likely. Have to deal with it. I use it to not make my zoysia (converted last year) make my yard totally brown.
Or it could be that stuff (I forgot it's name) it's actually a weed and you CAN get rid of it. Check the stalk of the blade to see if it's grass to the roots or if it has a broader "tree like" stalk and is easy to pull up by the root. If you can pull it up easily... go to your nearest nursery and ask them about removing it.

Excellent.

Thanks, wutamess.

Dayze
10-11-2007, 09:11 AM
Perennial rye grass more than likely. Have to deal with it. I use it to not make my zoysia (converted last year) make my yard totally brown.
Or it could be that stuff (I forgot it's name) it's actually a weed and you CAN get rid of it. Check the stalk of the blade to see if it's grass to the roots or if it has a broader "tree like" stalk and is easy to pull up by the root. If you can pull it up easily... go to your nearest nursery and ask them about removing it.
yep; at my old house, had zoysia in the front; loved it;
but would overseed with Rye; comes up quick; && gives a nice greent tint to the yard until June-ish when the zoysia really turns green.

excellent points, BTW on the nitrogen calcs; I agree -always figure it yourself.

ChiTown
10-11-2007, 09:13 AM
BTW, wutamess, if you are thinking of nutsedge, I have that problem in addition to this "other" grass. I get the nutsedge problem taken care of every August with a spray application.

wutamess
10-11-2007, 09:32 AM
BTW, wutamess, if you are thinking of nutsedge, I have that problem in addition to this "other" grass. I get the nutsedge problem taken care of every August with a spray application.


Yes nutsedge... thanks.

DenverChief
10-11-2007, 04:41 PM
That pretty green plant is a Sow Thistle.



yeah that shit makes me wanna pull my hair out....I just found some more in the back yard today....I might have to take my roundup over to the greenbelt and start spraying over there

HemiEd
10-11-2007, 05:12 PM
A nice lawn is a journey, not a destination. Where you live, you should have it overseeded by the first of October. Annual dethatching, aeration, and quarterly fertilization is a must.
The soil up here in Illinois is so poor, I have to add gypsom on an annual basis.

Herzig
10-11-2007, 05:21 PM
My previous house, I borrowed a tiller from a neighbor and tilled the entire yard. I graded the yard and spent about $140 on bermuda sod. Had a perfect yard after that. Most golfers I know seem to keep well maintained yards.

HemiEd
10-11-2007, 05:26 PM
My previous house, I borrowed a tiller from a neighbor and tilled the entire yard. I graded the yard and spent about $140 on bermuda sod. Had a perfect yard after that. Most golfers I know seem to keep well maintained yards.

I love playing golf on Bermuda, but the stuff won't live up here. I really got my neighbors attention about five years ago. I was fighting this dense clay that cracks two days without water. Had a dump truck full of sand delivered, and treated the lawn like a golf green. I aerated, then spread the sand over the lawn. The neighbors were all talking to each other about the crazy guy from Kansas. :D

2112
10-11-2007, 05:35 PM
Besides asphalt, Throw down 10 lbs lime per 5,000 sq ft. Rent an aerator, and do it to it. Put down grub killer, wait until week. Put down winterizer fertilizer, keeping the lawn semi-damp for at least 10 days. (Will be too cold, too soon, to plant seed, so don't even think about it.)

Seed the first weekend in April, with fertilizer that's does NOT have weed killer. Wait six weeks, throw down weed and feed. Throw down greening fertilizer the last weekend in July.

Reseed on Labor Day, and put down seeding fertilizer with the seed. Keep the lawn wet for 7 days.

Make damned sure you don't put down too much fertilizer, and make sure God or you throw 1/2" water on it at least once a week, unless otherwise specified!

If you don't want to put in the work, then live with a crummy lawn!
You only need to aerate ''good lawns''. the reason for aeration is to keep the roots from choking themselves, so if his lawn sucks why does he need this?

I happen to know a lot about this topic, but I'd have to look at it.

The best time to seed is in the fall. if you try and seed in the spring you can't put down preemergent weed control or spray for broad leaf weeds because of fear of ''burning'' the new seed. and it will look like shit because summer is 2-3 months away.

If you have good soil rent a slit seeder and slit seed the shit out of your lawn. lightly rake up some of the thatch but not all of it and top dress it with more seed. then water the shit out of it. DO NOT CUT THE GRASS AFTER THIS until the new seed grows to about 6 inches.

PM me if you want more info.

chiefscraze
10-11-2007, 07:15 PM
I am telling you, the grass will not absorb the fertilizer unless the PH is in check. Some areas need to apply lime regularly and some need to apply ironite or other mineral treatments to keep the PH right.

Otherwise, you are just banging your head on a brick wall and will see no results. Your lawn will not absorb nutrients if the PH is outside of the correct range. You can get a PH test kit at your local Lawn and Garden store and take multiple soil samples to test from different areas of your lawn.

Also, if you have high clay content you may need to apply fertilizer more than 3 or 4 times a year.

Phobia
10-11-2007, 07:29 PM
Okay, so if I put down winterizing fertilizer today can I put lime on top of it? How long do I have to wait to seed or is it just weed and feed that messes up germination periods?

2112
10-12-2007, 10:40 AM
Okay, so if I put down winterizing fertilizer today can I put lime on top of it? How long do I have to wait to seed or is it just weed and feed that messes up germination periods?
If you take a soil sample you might not need lime.


Seed in the fall and go full blast with the chemicals in the following spring.

BTW, the window for seeding will probably close by the end of October. it has to be a little bit warm to get the seed germinating.

Phobia
10-12-2007, 12:09 PM
I'm almost certain I'll need lime. This neighborhood is well known for it. My neighbor just spread a couple hundred lbs on his lawn and it looks great. So, it will germinate with lime and fertilizer? It's the weed & feed stuff that screws up germination?

2112
10-12-2007, 01:39 PM
I'm almost certain I'll need lime. This neighborhood is well known for it. My neighbor just spread a couple hundred lbs on his lawn and it looks great. So, it will germinate with lime and fertilizer? It's the weed & feed stuff that screws up germination?
Yes, lime and fert now and you will be ok with the weed and feed in the spring.

The pre emergent screws up the germination because it kills the seed BEFORE it is established. the post emergent will not because it just kills anything with a broad leaf (most weeds).

penguinz
10-12-2007, 01:44 PM
BTW, the window for seeding will probably close by the end of October. it has to be a little bit warm to get the seed germinating.
You can dormant seed around Thanksgiving.

2112
10-12-2007, 01:48 PM
You can dormant seed around Thanksgiving.
Yeah, sure you can. but for best results it has to grow a little bit before going dormant.

When nothing comes up you sit around with your fingers crossed come spring time.

Extra Point
10-12-2007, 04:27 PM
Aeration oxygenates the soil, doing much the same as a tiller. Lime softens the soil, as the soil makeup in these parts is mostly clay. As developments are mostly clay the result of graded basement foundation displacements, lime is called for 80+% of the time.

Go buy a pH meter. They're only $20.

But wait til spring to seed. Years ago, I waited til June to seed. So long as I kept the grass wet, I got germination and a decent lawn.

It's your money and time. Only yours.

2112
10-12-2007, 05:47 PM
Aeration oxygenates the soil, doing much the same as a tiller. Lime softens the soil, as the soil makeup in these parts is mostly clay. As developments are mostly clay the result of graded basement foundation displacements, lime is called for 80+% of the time.

Go buy a pH meter. They're only $20.

But wait til spring to seed. Years ago, I waited til June to seed. So long as I kept the grass wet, I got germination and a decent lawn.

It's your money and time. Only yours.
Absolute horseshit!!

Telling somebody to seed in the spring means you don't know your ass from a hole in the ground!!

Bwana
10-12-2007, 06:26 PM
Lay down a big ass slab and turn it into a tennis court? :shrug:

007
03-20-2008, 01:55 AM
Lay down a big ass slab and turn it into a tennis court? :shrug:

Now this is a great idea.:clap:

Starting round two since my fall attempt failed thanks to mother natures downpours.

Will be laying grass trimmings over the seed this time around in the completely bare areas created by a pool used a year and a half ago.

Wish me luck.