Home Question: Nail Popping in Wood Floor

[stlchiefs]

Home Repair Question:

I live in an 80+ y.o. house and with colder weather upon us I have a little problem. There are 2 particular nails that have started popping up every week or so. I used a nail set and have hammered them back in, but they continue to pop back up. How do I keep these down? Wood glue with them next time I nail them in? Gorilla Glue? Any legit help and truly witty responses appreciated.

[chefsos]

STAY DOWN BITCH!

Done.

[cabletech94]

Don't use nails. Screw it!!!!!

[stlchiefs]

Don't use nails. Screw it!!!!!

It's a very small nail, almost a finishing nail so I don't think that would be a good trade off.

[ChiefaRoo]

Burn your house down. Get the insurance money. Build new house with a better floor. Your welcome.

[Psyko Tek]

screws?

[notorious]

Borrow a 15/16 gauge finish nailer and fire a few in around the offending nails. Pull out offending nails. Putty in the holes, buy a humidifier to stabalize your in-house humidity.

Screws work, too, but it leaves a huge hole to putty. If you use screws, buy the torx insert kind. They give you a lot better torq in driving them in, which you will need if drilling into a red oak, white oak, or cherry (not to mention hickory or walnut). Drill a pilot hole with a small bit, get a larger bit that is about the same size as the screw head, drill a little "divot" out of the pilot hole, and countersink the screw.

That should fix your problem.

[Bugeater]

If you can get the old nails out, replace them with a larger ring shank nail.

[stlchiefs]

If you can get the old nails out, replace them with a larger ring shank nail.

Can you get these in finishing nail size? Smaller head? If that makes sense.

[Bugeater]

Can you get these in finishing nail size? Smaller head? If that makes sense.
Heh, that was a good question, apparently there isn't such a thing as a ring shank finishing nail. I suppose that shoots that idea to shit unless you were to modify the head of a framing nail with a grinder or something.

[stlchiefs]

Heh, that was a good question, apparently there isn't such a thing as a ring shank finishing nail. I suppose that shoots that idea to shit unless you were to modify the head of a framing nail with a grinder or something.

I'm kinda fond of 10 fingers. :D

[Bugeater]

I'm kinda fond of 10 fingers. :D
Damn man, if you're worried about losing a finger in a grinder you may want to leave the handy stuff to the wife.

[stlchiefs]

Damn man, if you're worried about losing a finger in a grinder you may want to leave the handy stuff to the wife.

Well I have a hand held grinder and don't have a table mounted vise. I was just picturing myself holding the grinder in one hand and nail in the other and trying to grind down the head to a finish nail size. The picture didn't end well.

[LaChapelle]

If it's over the basement, work from underneath

[stlchiefs]

If it's over the basement, work from underneath

Unfortunately it's over a finished part of the basement. I'm going to get a workable solution soon, I know it! :clap:

[notorious]

Hell, you are in the right city. The National Wood Floor Association holds their training there.
:)

[LaChapelle]

humidifier

[stlchiefs]

humidifier

that's been said and I have one. That isn't a solution to the current problem, just a way to prevent it in the future.

[Groves]

There's space between the flooring and whatever is underneath. Could be a joist or some pine underlayment.

Just pull the nail and be done with it.

Seems like most things you do with a floor are pushing it down. I don't think you'll have a problem with boards flying up.

[stlchiefs]

There's space between the flooring and whatever is underneath. Could be a joist or some pine underlayment.

Just pull the nail and be done with it.

Seems like most things you do with a floor are pushing it down. I don't think you'll have a problem with boards flying up.

This is true with one of the nails! That one board has some play in it and pushes down a bit. None of the other boards around it do that. Any idea? You think I'm ok just pulling the nails? Is there any way to keep them down or not?

[Baby Lee]

This is true with one of the nails! That one board has some play in it and pushes down a bit. None of the other boards around it do that. Any idea? You think I'm ok just pulling the nails? Is there any way to keep them down or not?

Can you go up a size in a finishing nail? Nail it 1/4 inch over [fresh wood meat]?

[KCbroncoHATER]

Dip them in some good glue and pound them back in.

[Ceej]

Pull up your existing hardwood floor and replace it with hardwood flooring from Lumber Liquidators. :)

[stlchiefs]

Pull up your existing hardwood floor and replace it with hardwood flooring from Lumber Liquidators. :)

You giving me the hook up?

[Groves]

This is true with one of the nails! That one board has some play in it and pushes down a bit. None of the other boards around it do that. Any idea? You think I'm ok just pulling the nails? Is there any way to keep them down or not?

This is why the nail comes up. Every time you walk on it, it pushes down, and then when you step off of it, it lifts the nail up a wee bit, or tries. Over time this extracts the nail.

Here's the real question. Why is there an exposed nail anyway? On most flooring the nail heads are hidden by the groove of the next board.

In almost all of the cases I've seen, these are nails that have been added later to "keep problem boards down" or "to reduce the squeaker".

If there is unevenness created by the nail being gone, then yes, you should do something, but if not, then just pull the nail.

If it squeaks beyond what you can stand, then you can get some special "old wood flooring screws" that will pull that gap tight.

It's much easier to just pull the nail, which probably shouldn't be there anyway. There were some old floor with facenails that you can see, but by far most of them weren't able to be seen.

Pics?

[Ceej]

You giving me the hook up?

Sure, if you make the long road trip to Wichita, Kansas. :)

[stlchiefs]

Sure, if you make the long road trip to Wichita, Kansas. :)

That's actually where I'm originally from. Just throw it in the back of my parents car when they come to visit next time if you would.

[notorious]

Sure, if you make the long road trip to Wichita, Kansas. :)

Damn, in a post months ago I told you I was going to come out to talk to you guys.

Next time I am in Wichita, I will stop by.

OKC charges $300 to ship most orders, so if you can match/beat that, you have a new customer :)

[Ceej]

That's actually where I'm originally from. Just throw it in the back of my parents car when they come to visit next time if you would.

Okay, I'm sure we can fit in plenty of boxes of our finest LAMINATE in the back/trunk of their car. We've done it before.


Also, notorious, did you ever get the chance to stop by?

[notorious]

Okay, I'm sure we can fit in plenty of boxes of our finest LAMINATE in the back/trunk of their car. We've done it before.


Also, notorious, did you ever get the chance to stop by?

I have been neck-deep in Greensburg installing 5" #2 Red Oak unfinished for some of the stars in the Greensburg TV show.

Borders, picture frames, and diamond patterns are the norm in this house. Nice to show off my talents, but takes forever and sanding the special designs are a pain.

Makes me realize how much I love Pre-finished product laid straight.

I will definately make it out to Wichita in the next month, and I will PM you a few days before I come into town.

[stlchiefs]

This is why the nail comes up. Every time you walk on it, it pushes down, and then when you step off of it, it lifts the nail up a wee bit, or tries. Over time this extracts the nail.

Here's the real question. Why is there an exposed nail anyway? On most flooring the nail heads are hidden by the groove of the next board.

In almost all of the cases I've seen, these are nails that have been added later to "keep problem boards down" or "to reduce the squeaker".

If there is unevenness created by the nail being gone, then yes, you should do something, but if not, then just pull the nail.

If it squeaks beyond what you can stand, then you can get some special "old wood flooring screws" that will pull that gap tight.

It's much easier to just pull the nail, which probably shouldn't be there anyway. There were some old floor with facenails that you can see, but by far most of them weren't able to be seen.

Pics?

Yeah, you can tell this was added later. The board only moves if you specifically step on that one. Like I said, it's odd as it's only that one board. There's no squeak or noise, but it does look like it was added later. Any more info on the "old wood flooring screws" or how I could fix this problem? I've attached a picture. The nail in question is in the little dark spot in the middle board. You can see closer to the wall (right side of the frame) that there is some wood filler on the edge of this same board and that it does have some play in it. Let me know what else you think/see. Thanks a ton.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1271/img0025dp.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/i/img0025dp.jpg/)

[KCbroncoHATER]

Why don't you use a longer nail?

[Ceej]

We've gotten a lot of business from Greensburg residents. A lot of bamboo -- people there are going "green."

We had a gentleman (a Mr. Gary Goldman) do about 3300 sqft. of our tiger strand bamboo in the only remaining building (if my memory serves me correctly) left standing after the tornado.

Are you an installer? A contractor?

[notorious]

We've gotten a lot of business from Greensburg residents. A lot of bamboo -- people there are going "green."

We had a gentleman (a Mr. Gary Goldman) do about 3300 sqft. of our tiger strand bamboo in the only remaining building (if my memory serves me correctly) left standing after the tornado.

Are you an installer? A contractor?

Installer/refinisher.


I have had a few people ask about bamboo, but my main distributors out of KC and Springfield do not carry a whole lot of options. I will have to check out the LL website on bamboo and build some large samples.

BTW there were a few houses standing in the Southwest and far East sides of the city. I did a quite a few repair/refinishes on some wood in those areas.

[Ceej]

That's cool. Where you based out of? Have you been to one of our stores?

[KCbroncoHATER]

That looks like the original fill that they used before they sanded the floor. As you can see the finish is gone off the top of it and it's starting to come out. Your floors need to be sanded, filled and refinished. When this is done you can just pop a few nails into that board and drive them down and fill them.

I did my last house, it was pretty easy.

[notorious]

That's cool. Where you based out of? Have you been to one of our stores?

Never been in a store, just ordered some of the higher end wood from LL in OKC.

They have great customer service there, but if the Wichita location is cheaper on shipping/or more convenient for me to come and pick up orders, that would be great.

Unfortunately LL can't compete with some prices I get at my other distributors when it comes to the basic wood groups, but you guys definately have some higher-end products my customers like.

[Gonzo]

Antifreeze?

Is the wood from an aids tree?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ceej]

The guys in OKC are great guys. Depending on where you're based -- like in OK you're predominantly installing on concrete slabs, right? Here in Wichita we almost are always selling nail-down hardwoods -- meaning a lot of people in Wichita aren't on slabs. However, I'm sure you know most of these things already, haha.

But, yeah, gimme a holler when you come up. We give contractors, installers, etc a discount. The discount depends on what product you go with. It varies anywhere from a dime off up to .40 or .50/sqft.

[notorious]

That looks like the original fill that they used before they sanded the floor. As you can see the finish is gone off the top of it and it's starting to come out. Your floors need to be sanded, filled and refinished. When this is done you can just pop a few nails into that board and drive them down and fill them.

I did my last house, it was pretty easy.

If you have good equipment, it can be easy, with a lot of hard work.

Most of the rental stuff is garbage that is way out of proper calibration.

Don't get me started on drum sander rentals........

As for the filler, you could have 500 layers of finish on it but it will eventually break up and work it's way out due to wood shifting during the seasons. By the looks of it, the filler used wasn't the stainable/sealable kind, due to the color being way off. It should golden up with your oak as it ages if the proper filler was used.

Not much you can do but fire a few nails in and putty them unless you want to go through the entire refinishing process.

I would set the compressor to around 80-90 pounds of pressure and let them rip. They will hold much better then the old-school nails.

[notorious]

The guys in OKC are great guys. Depending on where you're based -- like in OK you're predominantly installing on concrete slabs, right? Here in Wichita we almost are always selling nail-down hardwoods -- meaning a lot of people in Wichita aren't on slabs. However, I'm sure you know most of these things already, haha.

But, yeah, gimme a holler when you come up. We give contractors, installers, etc a discount. The discount depends on what product you go with. It varies anywhere from a dime off up to .40 or .50/sqft.

Nah, no-mans-land southwestern Kansas. Many basement out here so 3/4" subfloor is the norm. I have did few floating/engineered floors in basements, but most people figured out that they can do laminate downstairs themselves (dang-it :)) Most of my work is with 3/4" product.

That discount is nice to know, thanks for the info!

[KCbroncoHATER]

There you go, he is a installer.

He would know.

[notorious]

There you go, he is a installer.

He would know.

You know a hell of a lot more then most do-it yourselfers I have ran into. You are right with most of your advice.

[Brock]

Have you considered running screws from underneath the floor?

[Ceej]

Nah, no-mans-land southwestern Kansas. Many basement out here so 3/4" subfloor is the norm. I have did few floating/engineered floors in basements, but most people figured out that they can do laminate downstairs themselves (dang-it :)) Most of my work is with 3/4" product.

That discount is nice to know, thanks for the info!

No problem. Keep in touch.

[KCbroncoHATER]

I am a contractor.

[notorious]

I am a contractor.

My apologies on the do-it-yourself label. That would explain why you know a lot more then the regular person :).

[KCbroncoHATER]

Haha.

No problem.

[stlchiefs]

If you have good equipment, it can be easy, with a lot of hard work.

Most of the rental stuff is garbage that is way out of proper calibration.

Don't get me started on drum sander rentals........

As for the filler, you could have 500 layers of finish on it but it will eventually break up and work it's way out due to wood shifting during the seasons. By the looks of it, the filler used wasn't the stainable/sealable kind, due to the color being way off. It should golden up with your oak as it ages if the proper filler was used.

Not much you can do but fire a few nails in and putty them unless you want to go through the entire refinishing process.

I would set the compressor to around 80-90 pounds of pressure and let them rip. They will hold much better then the old-school nails.

Do you also agree with the observation that the floors may need sanded and refinished? If I decide to mess with this later on I'm assuming it's possible to stain the floors a bit darker the next time around? Without a nail gun is there an option here besides for simply pulling the nail? Any ideas on why it's just this one board that's loose? Lots of questions, but Thanks again to both of you for your help here.

[notorious]

Do you also agree with the observation that the floors may need sanded and refinished? If I decide to mess with this later on I'm assuming it's possible to stain the floors a bit darker the next time around? Without a nail gun is there an option here besides for simply pulling the nail? Any ideas on why it's just this one board that's loose? Lots of questions, but Thanks again to both of you for your help here.

Simple fix would be to pull the nail, putty the hole, and see if you can live with the board sticking up a little bit and/or creaking noises.

Go to a good hardware store to buy the right color of putty. They should have a large selection of colors to choose from. If you want to get rid of the black mark around the nails, take a razor and carefully shave out the top layer of the black part. The putty should blend right in with the floor, and if needed dab on a little satin finish with a small brush.

That would be the first step before you dive into an expensive refinish.

Your floor would look fantastic with the correct wood filler used in conjuction with a full refinish. That usually runs between $3-4.50 a foot.

Yes, you can stain your floor whatever color you want. Just be careful not to stain it too dark. It will make small rooms appear even smaller, especially if there is little light. Dark floors also limit the color of furniture that you can put in that room that matches. Natural finish usually gives you the most options when it comes to matching furniture, plus it tends to make the room appear larger, and is easier to keep clean (dust).