Electrician/Handyman Rec in Springfield

[Skyy God]

I have a kitchen light that doesn't turn on all the way.... just blinks on and off. Previously, it would shut off after being on for a while. It's a modern decorative light (saw a similar one at Kai downtown), will post a pic shortly.

Any ideas on what's wrong, whether it's fixable without professional help, and recommendations on said professional help.

[mikeyis4dcats.]

most likely a loose wire unless it's a flourescent. Probably cheaper to just replace the fixture than try to troubleshoot it.

[Bugeater]

Bad switch?

[BigRedChief]

My brother is a maintenance guy down there is Springfield.

[Brock]

The switch or the socket. Either one is an easy fix.

[CoMoChief]

Does the lighter fluid need replacing? :D

[sparkky]

we need to know what kind of bulb it takes.

[Chiefaholic]

More than likely a lose wire on the fixture. Turn off the electricity to the light, drop it down, then gently pull undividual wires where they're tied together at the end connector. If one pulls out, then twist them together again and pull to assure you have a tight connection. If not that, turn the power back on and turn on the switch on the wall then make sure you have power to the light with a cheap elect. tester. If no power, then check the switch in the wall to make sure you have a tight connection from breaker and the outgoing wire to the light. Might want to run a test on the feed wire in the wall as well to make sure the problem's not in the feed line. It's possible something between the previous drop and the light switch could be the problem as well (possibly a wall plug). Having a wiring diagram of the house would be a plus. Then just backtrack the wire between the switch and the breaker.

[Dinny Bossa Nova]

Check yer PMs, Pitts.

Dinny

[Skyy God]

More than likely a lose wire on the fixture. Turn off the electricity to the light, drop it down, then gently pull undividual wires where they're tied together at the end connector. If one pulls out, then twist them together again and pull to assure you have a tight connection. If not that, turn the power back on and turn on the switch on the wall then make sure you have power to the light with a cheap elect. tester. If no power, then check the switch in the wall to make sure you have a tight connection from breaker and the outgoing wire to the light. Might want to run a test on the feed wire in the wall as well to make sure the problem's not in the feed line. It's possible something between the previous drop and the light switch could be the problem as well (possibly a wall plug). Having a wiring diagram of the house would be a plus. Then just backtrack the wire between the switch and the breaker.

I'll preface this statement with the fact that I'm not at all handy. The extent of my lighting experience is assisting on replacing a normal hallway fixture. But, it seems like the design will make it way more difficult for me to drop it down, no?

[Phobia]

That's a low voltage light. Probably something goofy going wrong in the transformer. You got some problems.

[Skyy God]

That's a low voltage light. Probably something goofy going wrong in the transformer. You got some problems.

As in, it would be cheaper to replace than repair? Given the progression of problems, I was afraid of that.

[Phobia]

As in, it would be cheaper to replace than repair? Given the progression of problems, I was afraid of that.

Not necessarily - if you have ever taken anything apart before. Pull that housing down - should be 2 or 3 screws in the side holding it up.

Scratch that. Here's what you do first. There are two "pigtails" connecting the transformer to the cables. At the end of those pigtails are two screws. Tighten them. If that doesn't fix it, you have problems.

[Phobia]

In fact, loosen them first. Slide them 1/8th of an inch on the cables and then tighten.

[BigRedChief]

Not necessarily - if you have ever taken anything apart before. Pull that housing down - should be 2 or 3 screws in the side holding it up.

Scratch that. Here's what you do first. There are two "pigtails" connecting the transformer to the cables. At the end of those pigtails are two screws. Tighten them. If that doesn't fix it, you have problems.What are you doing? trying to take money out of my brothers bank account? :rolleyes:

[Skyy God]

In fact, loosen them first. Slide them 1/8th of an inch on the cables and then tighten.

That I can handle. I'll try it when I get home.

[Skyy God]

What are you doing? trying to take money out of my brothers bank account? :rolleyes:

Don't worry, BRC, I've got another light fixture that doesn't work and numerous other projects. There's plenty of work to go around.

[BigRedChief]

Don't worry, BRC, I've got another light fixture that doesn't work and numerous other projects. There's plenty of work to go around.I was just poking Phobia with a stick. We are friends offline and he has done work on my house before. Whatever Phobia says is probably right on the money.

[Phobia]

Heh. I take money out of my own account all the time. I'd rather help somebody do something they can do on their own than take $75 off them for something that takes me a couple minutes. Then when they have a real problem they'll call me.... hopefully.

[KCbroncoHATER]

It's the switch.

Go buy one and replace it.

Then do the rest of the crap.

[CoMoChief]

I'm telling you it's the lighter fluid.

Let me know if you need anymore help.

[Skyy God]

In fact, loosen them first. Slide them 1/8th of an inch on the cables and then tighten.

No dice. What's the next step (note, I can get the housing open)?

[Phobia]

Now I'd verify all your connections inside the housing and at the switch. Do you have a dimmer on that thing? If not, you should. You'll like the light a lot more if you get one.

Just make sure you have contact at all your connections. If that doesn't fix it, I agree with whomever made the switch suggestion - change that out. If that's not it then you should probably replace the transformer inside that housing. Don'g know how much that piece costs but if it's over $100 then go buy a new light. Those things were around $100-120 new. I think Lowes might still sell a version of it.

[KCbroncoHATER]

A single pole switch cost $.69.

It's not the transformer.

[Phobia]

A single pole switch cost $.69.

Yes, that's why it's the first thing listed after all the troubleshooting steps that are free.

I wonder how much a reading comprehension replacement would run you.

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Now I'd verify all your connections inside the housing and at the switch. Do you have a dimmer on that thing? If not, you should. You'll like the light a lot more if you get one.

Just make sure you have contact at all your connections. If that doesn't fix it, I agree with whomever made the switch suggestion - change that out. If that's not it then you should probably replace the transformer inside that housing. Don'g know how much that piece costs but if it's over $100 then go buy a new light. Those things were around $100-120 new. I think Lowes might still sell a version of it.

I can't imagine the switch being the issue if it turns off after a period of time, but it is a cheap thing to try.

[KCbroncoHATER]

For fks sakes, change the transformer then.

Are all the lights that are on that switch flickering or is it just one of the lamps?

[Phobia]

I can't imagine the switch being the issue if it turns off after a period of time, but it is a cheap thing to try.

Especially if they don't already have a dimmer on the thing. Those low-voltage cable lights are pretty nice mood lighting if you have them on a dimmer.

[Phobia]

For fks sakes, change the transformer then.

Are all the lights that are on that switch flickering or is it just one of the lamps?

Looks to me like the only thing that would be on that switch would be the one fixture.

[KCbroncoHATER]

I see 4 lamp holders in that pic.

I wanted to know if it was all of them or just one.

[Phobia]

I see 4 lamp holders in that pic.

I wanted to know if it was all of them or just one.

I feel pretty safe assuming that he's individually troubleshot the lamps based on the individual replacement bulb picture he posted.

Are you naturally abrasive or is this apprehension I'm feeling towards you my issue? I don't normally have trouble interacting with people online like I've had with you.

[KCbroncoHATER]

What?

[KCbroncoHATER]

If all the lamps flicker I would ...

1. Check the voltage coming out out of the switch.

2. Check the voltage coming out of the transformer.

If only one was flickering ...

1. Check the voltage at the lamp holder.

2. Check the continuity of the lamp.

Sound right to you?

[chief52]

If all the lamps flicker I would ...

1. Check the voltage coming out out of the switch.

2. Check the voltage coming out of the transformer.

If only one was flickering ...

1. Check the voltage at the lamp holder.

2. Check the continuity of the lamp.

Sound right to you?

Flicker is a connection problem, not a "voltage" problem. Gotta find the loose connection IMO...

[Phobia]

If all the lamps flicker I would ...

1. Check the voltage coming out out of the switch.

2. Check the voltage coming out of the transformer.

If only one was flickering ...

1. Check the voltage at the lamp holder.

2. Check the continuity of the lamp.

Sound right to you?
Sounds perfect for you or I but we have to consider we're helping a typical homeowner. What at the chances he has a voltmeter? If he happens to have a voltmeter what are the chances he knows how to use it?

[KCbroncoHATER]

I can't imagine the switch being the issue if it turns off after a period of time

It's not uncommon for a switch to be cracked and ground out with just simple vibrations.

Old three way switches with high loads do this a lot.

[KCbroncoHATER]

True.

[KCbroncoHATER]

Flicker is a connection problem, not a "voltage" problem. Gotta find the loose connection IMO...

No connection, no voltage.

[Phobia]

Flicker is a connection problem, not a "voltage" problem. Gotta find the loose connection IMO...

No connection, no voltage.

Or bad transformer, fluctuating voltage.

[KCbroncoHATER]

I have a kitchen light that doesn't turn on all the way.... just blinks on and off.

It sounds like a thermocouple is shot, but I am not sure if a light like that would have one.

[Bugeater]

Hey KCbroncoDORK, is the quote function too complicated for you?

[KCbroncoHATER]

What are you talking about?

[chief52]

Flicker is a connection problem, not a "voltage" problem. Gotta find the loose connection IMO...

No connection, no voltage.

No connection, no voltage...loose connection, sometimes voltage sometimes not. Putting a volt meter on a bad connection without any load will not expose a loose connection. Voltage will read perfectly.

[Bugeater]

What are you talking about?
This button over here





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[Phobia]

This button over here





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What?

[Bugeater]

What?
Yeah, that one.

[KCbroncoHATER]

The meter would complete the circuit, if you moved the wire or the lamp holder the meter would catch and drop in voltage, right?

[KCbroncoHATER]

I don't use it because I was only answering one part of the post and didn't feel the need to quote the whole post.

[Bugeater]

The meter would complete the circuit, if you moved the wire or the lamp holder the meter would catch and drop in voltage, right?
See, when I click that button, it puts your post in a nice neat little quote box. It also adds that cool little arrow button you can click on that takes you to the post itself.

[Bugeater]

I don't use it because I was only answering one part of the post and didn't feel the need to quote the whole post.
Bullshit, you've done that since the day you first appeared here.

[chief52]

The meter would complete the circuit, if you moved the wire or the lamp holder the meter would catch and drop in voltage, right?

If you could move all the connections I guess you may notice a deflection. But if you open up the switch and check the voltage without any load on the connection you will probably read good voltage. In other words, there would be enough amperage going through the "bad" connection to provide good voltage to a meter but it could be intermittant to the light and you would not be able to tell. You need to be able to check voltage under load.

[KCbroncoHATER]

How would you do that?

Check the voltage from the hot to the light and the common from the light right?

[Phobia]

I'll defer to chief52's expertise at this level. He's in the electrical trades.

[chief52]

How would you do that?

I know how to do it from outside the house if there is a problem inside, but I could not tell you how to do it from inside. You just need to systematically check the connections. A real bad connection with no load will still give you a good reading with a volt meter. It is only under load that it becomes the bad connection and can be exposed.

I am a lineman. From outside the house if you pull the meter and check voltage with the main open it may be good. But we plug a machine ( Basically a fancy hair dryer ) into the meter jaws and check the voltage then. If there is a bad connection the load exposes it.

[KCbroncoHATER]

I understand.

That would be the same way I would check the switch, you turn on the light, one probe goes on the hot to the light (load) and the other probe goes on the common from the light, that would tell you the voltage at load, right?

Plus inside the house on a light like that the amps usage wouldn't come near the wire/breaker rating.

[KCbroncoHATER]

How many amps does that fancy hair dryer pull anyway?

100?

200?