-- Car Wax recommendations?

[Simply Red]

Hey ya'll,

Do you all have any brand recommendations for car wax? I'm over the messy white goo, Is there any newer technology regarding car wax? I've never really looked out there for it, but prior to me buying any, I thought I'd ask you all.

Thanks

-SR

[Donger]

The little man who waxes my car swears by Mother's Gold.

[Saulbadguy]

Cranberry Juice. Cran-apple.

[Bugeater]

Fuck car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

[pr_capone]

**** car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

Quoted due to the poster of this comment not telling you an untruth.

[Tytanium]

Fuck car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

car wax and claybars do two totally different things.

[MIAdragon]

It really depends on the color if car, what "look" you're after, what you're willing to spend ......

[Simply Red]

**** car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

OK, yes I'm familiar. How do you apply? Is it basically the same method, panel by panel, let dry, wipe clean, type of thing?

[Bugeater]

car wax and claybars do two totally different things.
Well whatever, the end result with the clay bar is far better. I know you're supposed to wax it afterwards but I never do. Wax is a pain in the ass.

OK, yes I'm familiar. How do you apply? Is it basically the same method, panel by panel, let dry, wipe clean, type of thing?
You just spray on some lubricant, rub it down with the clay bar, wipe clean immediately. That's it. Just be sure lay down a clean sheet or some newspaper on the floor underneath the area you are working on in case you drop the bar, you don't want any rocks or dirt getting into it.

[MIAdragon]

**** car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

Wha, all the clay bar does is remove surface junk you still need to protect the paint with something

[Simply Red]

.It really depends on the color if car -(black), what "look" you're after, - (icey-hot!) what you're willing to spend ......IDK under $50

[T-post Tom]

Best brand evah!

http://media.gamerevolution.com/images/misc/Image/wax_on_wax_off.jpg

[loochy]

Wha, all the clay bar does is remove surface junk you still need to protect the paint with something

This. Why would you claybar and NOT wax? As stated above, the claybar removes all of the surface junk and scum. A claybar will also remove WAX from the surface, leaving your topcoat unprotected and vulnerable. You should DEFINITELY wax after using a claybar.


But yes, if you claybar and then WAX, your results will be awesome.

[Simply Red]

Well whatever, the end result with the clay bar is far better. I know you're supposed to wax it afterwards but I never do. Wax is a pain in the ass.


You just spray on some lubricant, rub it down with the clay bar, wipe clean immediately. That's it. Just be sure lay down a clean sheet or some newspaper on the floor underneath the area you are working on in case you drop the bar, you don't want any rocks or dirt getting into it.

perfect, ty. I actually think i need the wax too, but this bar will most likely help with some troubled areas. But overall, my paint is still pretty good. An ex coworker swears that the clay bars will rid a car of swirl marks caused by bad buffing or forcefull buffing. Is the lube included in the kit?

[mikeyis4dcats.]

car wax and claybars do two totally different things.

+infinity

[mikeyis4dcats.]

perfect, ty. I actually think i need the wax too, but this bar will most likely help with some troubled areas. But overall, my paint is still pretty good. An ex coworker swears that the clay bars will rid a car of swirl marks caused by bad buffing or forcefull buffing. Is the lube included in the kit?

typically no, a clay bar won't do anything for swirl marks if they are into the actual paint.

A clay bars sole purpose is to grab and remove any surface grit and wax to provide a clean surface for wax application.

[Bugeater]

This. Why would you claybar and NOT wax? As stated above, the claybar removes all of the surface junk and scum. A claybar will also remove WAX from the surface, leaving your topcoat unprotected and vulnerable. You should DEFINITELY wax after using a claybar.


But yes, if you claybar and then WAX, your results will be awesome.
Because wax is a goddamn pain in the ass, that's why. I'd rather just go over it with the clay bar every few months.

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Because wax is a goddamn pain in the ass, that's why. I'd rather just go over it with the clay bar every few months.

:facepalm;

[Tytanium]

Well whatever, the end result with the clay bar is far better. I know you're supposed to wax it afterwards but I never do. Wax is a pain in the ass.


You just spray on some lubricant, rub it down with the clay bar, wipe clean immediately. That's it. Just be sure lay down a clean sheet or some newspaper on the floor underneath the area you are working on in case you drop the bar, you don't want any rocks or dirt getting into it.

Claybars pick up microscopic dirt particles and other junk off of the clearcoat. When I worked as a detailer at a dealer, they were especially good at lifting off rail dust for when the rail strike happened a few years ago and a bunch of cars were left sitting in trainyards. A good carnuba wax will, with 3-4 coats, harden and last for a good 5-6 months. I like to use a base synthetic wax (like NXT Tech Wax) for a few coats, and then cover it with carnuba.

It's best to claybar before you do anything really serious with the paint, especially machine polishing. Wax will adhere better and look cleaner if you claybar before applying.

[Bob Dole]

Prowler Waterless Wash and Wax is good for the "in between" major wax jobs. (Bob Dole always washes and dries the car first, though.)

[Bugeater]

Claybars pick up microscopic dirt particles and other junk off of the clearcoat. When I worked as a detailer at a dealer, they were especially good at lifting off rail dust for when the rail strike happened a few years ago and a bunch of cars were left sitting in trainyards. A good carnuba wax will, with 3-4 coats, harden and last for a good 5-6 months. I like to use a base synthetic wax (like NXT Tech Wax) for a few coats, and then cover it with carnuba.

It's best to claybar before you do anything really serious with the paint, especially machine polishing. Wax will adhere better and look cleaner if you claybar before applying.
Well if the wax will really last longer, then that's a different story. I just got tired of going thru all the hassle of waxing and a month later it's back to the same surface I had before.

[loochy]

Because wax is a goddamn pain in the ass, that's why. I'd rather just go over it with the clay bar every few months.

I think it's probably bad for your paint to claybar that often...

[petegz28]

Zaino Brothers

Best stuff there is

http://www.zainostore.com/

[Simply Red]

Cranberry Juice. Cran-apple.

Saul, get out and dry off.
Choose a robe-- not the Bijan--
and come and meet me and our guest in the living room for drinks.

[joemama]

Meguire's Tech Wax is some nice stuff.

[petegz28]

I have used Zaino Brothers for the last several years. This shit is DA BOMB! It's a little pricey but **** does it work great! I haven't waxed the Camaro since March of 2009 and people still come up to me asking me how I got the car so shiney. Most of the people I have talked with who are in car shows use Zaino Brothers. You want a glass finish, this is the shit!

Mah car is shiney!

[petegz28]

If you don't want to go with Zaino I would suggest California Mother's Gold. Probably the best you will get off the shelf.

[Simply Red]

Claybars pick up microscopic dirt particles and other junk off of the clearcoat. When I worked as a detailer at a dealer, they were especially good at lifting off rail dust for when the rail strike happened a few years ago and a bunch of cars were left sitting in trainyards. A good carnuba wax will, with 3-4 coats, harden and last for a good 5-6 months. I like to use a base synthetic wax (like NXT Tech Wax) for a few coats, and then cover it with carnuba.

It's best to claybar before you do anything really serious with the paint, especially machine polishing. Wax will adhere better and look cleaner if you claybar before applying.

OK, this is going to sound weird, but I'll do my best to explain it.

there's a spot on my hood where the paint has oxidized and looks like a wood table where a cup of ice water was left overnight, sortof a white colored chemical reactionary change, not sure... Maybe a leaf baked on it, or something, ..prior to my owning it. But - I just wonder if the bar would help w/ that. It's not REAL noticable, but I WOULD like to get it off of the hood area. In the sunlight, it's a minor eye sore.

[petegz28]

A note about using multiple coats of wax. Waxing you car, then polishing it off then waxing again immediately is a waste of car wax and your energy. Wax takes time to cure. Putting a 2nd coat on immediately after taking the 1st coat off is a waste. Zaino has some stuff that you can add to their wax to help it cure almost instantly.

This is a secret I found most people aren't aware of.

[Bugeater]

I think it's probably bad for your paint to claybar that often...
Well I'm certainly no expert in this area, all I know is the end result with the clay bar is far superior than any wax I've ever used. If wax would help maintain that finish longer then maybe it would be worth the hassle. FWIW, I do regularly use the spray on car wax at the car wash, but I know it's not quite the same. I figure it's better than nothing though.

[loochy]

OK, this is going to sound weird, but I'll do my best to explain it.

there's a spot on my hood where the paint has oxidized and looks like a wood table where a cup of ice water was left overnight, sortof a white colored chemical reactionary change, not sure... Maybe a leaf baked on it, or something, ..prior to my owning it. But - I just wonder if the bar would help w/ that. It's not REAL noticable, but I WOULD like to get it off of the hood area. In the sunlight, it's a minor eye sore.

Yeah, definitely try to claybar that. If it's not through your clearcoat, the claybar should pull it up. Make sure to wax afterwards. :)

[petegz28]

OK, this is going to sound weird, but I'll do my best to explain it.

there's a spot on my hood where the paint has oxidized and looks like a wood table where a cup of ice water was left overnight, sortof a white colored chemical reactionary change, not sure... Maybe a leaf baked on it, or something, ..prior to my owning it. But - I just wonder if the bar would help w/ that. It's not REAL noticable, but I WOULD like to get it off of the hood area. In the sunlight, it's a minor eye sore.

Try taking a good cleaner wax to it. Then use a good wax on it. As much as I don't care for the stuff, Nu-finish is a product I have had success with in the past when dealing with minor oxidation.

[Simply Red]

I'm so excited about doing this, I bet it'll be icey hot, in no time.

[petegz28]

I'm so excited about doing this, I bet it'll be icey hot, in no time.

Read this, SR...

It's tips and tricks for waxing

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=TIPS&Store_Code=Z

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Well I'm certainly no expert in this area, all I know is the end result with the clay bar is far superior than any wax I've ever used. If wax would help maintain that finish longer then maybe it would be worth the hassle. FWIW, I do regularly use the spray on car wax at the car wash, but I know it's not quite the same. I figure it's better than nothing though.

car wash wax is useless.

[petegz28]

This is the pic that sold me on Zaino...talk about a glass finish

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/photos/blacktalg.jpg

[petegz28]

car wash wax is useless.

Agreed 100000000%. I never use "spray wax" on my Camaro and rarely on the other cars.

[petegz28]

Also, SR, if you are going to wax the entire car, hand wash it with Dawn dishsoap before hand. Dawn will strip off any previous wax and crap from the paint giving you a good base to start waxing.

[Simply Red]

Prowler Waterless Wash and Wax is good for the "in between" major wax jobs. (Bob Dole always washes and dries the car first, though.)

LOL at the end.

[Simply Red]

Also, SR, if you are going to wax the entire car, hand wash it with Dawn dishsoap before hand. Dawn will strip off any previous wax and crap from the paint giving you a good base to start waxing.

Ty, will do, my paint is still fairly fresh, I've never waxed it, yet I wash it twice per week, mostly. @ least once per week, here's a recent picture of her and my goofy ass @ Arrowhead. lol


http://i55.tinypic.com/vxcb44.jpg

[Simply Red]

This is the pic that sold me on Zaino...talk about a glass finish

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/photos/blacktalg.jpg

that's awesome.

[petegz28]

that's awesome.

I'll tell you now that Zaino is NOT CHEAP. I think for a kit that had a claybar, swirl remover (pre-cleaner) wax, polish and the accelerator cost me around $80.

But if you are serious this is th way to go. You will not be disappointed. This is the best stuff I have ever used. I have a couple bottles of Maguire's and some Mother's Gold that are all still full sitting on my shelf because I love this Zaino stuff so much. Hands down I think it is the best of the best.

[Bugeater]

car wash wax is useless.
Eh, I'm not sure I believe that, the water beads up way more after I put it on, so it has to be doing something.

[petegz28]

Eh, I'm not sure I believe that, the water beads up way more after I put it on, so it has to be doing something.

Ok, what's the water do after you wash the car again? Initial beading is misleading.

Almost all polishes, waxes, etc. bead water initially. As they are removed, breakdown or dissipated by washing, exposure to sunlight and heat, expansion and contraction, abrasion, abrasion from pollen and other pollutants, the water beading is diminished. This is due to the reduction in surface tension of the polish or wax once it is removed or breaks down.

If the surface has any protection when there is no water beading is the subject of much controversy. Especially when the polish or wax exhibits good water beading immediately after the initial application. If there is any protection left, how would one know? There are no scientific tests to my knowledge that can determine this. Most consumers and especially wax/polish manufacturers use the reduction in the height, contact angle and diameter of water beading as a gauge to know when to re-apply polish/wax for continued protection.

If a polish/wax gives water beading initially but then stops beading after washing, part of the polish formula has been removed. If this happens, is there any protection left???? Was the chemical or film that caused the water beading also the protection????

If a manufacturer claims that their polish/wax will bead water initially and then magically change to sheeting... I say impossible!!!! Let them prove that the polish/wax film protection initially applied is still there...

Until a specific test is developed and not some fake, razzle-dazzle test, these questions will remain unanswered and I will continue to use water beading, (height, contact angle and diameter) as a major factor in gauging a polish/wax protection.

P.S. Please remember that healthy paint will bead water without any polish/wax applied. This confuses many people to believe a polish/wax is lasting longer than they think.

To test your polish/wax, you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially applying your polish/wax. This is your starting point. This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity, duration and changes) for that specific product. As the water beads start to diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and its film protection factor is going away. When the water beading is the same as before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone.

[Silock]

First off, clay bar on the car all the time without sealing it with wax is stupid because it's a waste of time. You're removing contaminants from the paint, but without protecting it, you'll just end up having to clay bar more often.

Wash, then clay bar the car. To remove that spot you're talking about, you're going to want to use a polish. Do the whole car. Then, use a nice sealer wax after. If the clay bar and polish don't work, you might need to wet sand the area. Sounds a lot scarier than it actually is.

Wash, clay, polish, wax. The clay and polish you should only need to do 1-2 times per year, depending on how dirty your car gets.

As for a nice wax, Collinite 845 lasts a long time, and gives a REALLY great shine. I wouldn't expect any wax that you'll find at places like Autozone to last. Get some of the good shit.

Reviews on the Collinite:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/61261-review-collinite-845-insulator-wax.html

You can browse through the autopia forums for some really great advice on how to take care of your car.

Guide to detailing, with lots of great info and threads:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/

Hope this helps.

[Bugeater]

Ok, what's the water do after you wash the car again? Initial beeding is misleading.
The thing is, even when I use the real wax, within a month the water doesn't bead anymore. I'm just not convinced it's worth the trouble.

[petegz28]

The thing is, even when I use the real wax, within a month the water doesn't bead anymore. I'm just not convinced it's worth the trouble.

That's because you are using cheap wax, regardless of what brand. Most people do because they don't know any better. I was victim of that as well so you are in the very large majority of people.

Most people as well think putting 2-3 coats of wax on in the same day is acomplishing something as well when it really isn't.

[Bob Dole]

Bob Dole is glad this discussion came up, since against his better judgement, Bob Dole just bought a black car...

[Brock]

Bob Dole is glad this discussion came up, since against his better judgement, Bob Dole just bought a black car...

how's it run?

[Silock]

That's because you are using cheap wax, regardless of what brand. Most people do because they don't know any better. I was victim of that as well so you are in the very large majority of people.

Most people as well think putting 2-3 coats of wax on in the same day is acomplishing something as well when it really isn't.

Precisely. Cheap waxes won't last. They never do.

Waxing once with a good "shine" wax and then doing another coat of one that lasts forever tends to yield really great results that last, provided you take care of the car by washing it weekly (even if it doesn't look dirty).

[Simply Red]

Bob Dole is glad this discussion came up, since against his better judgement, Bob Dole just bought a black car...

NICE! When? What year?

[Brock]

car wash wax is useless.

Not this.

[petegz28]

Bob Dole is glad this discussion came up, since against his better judgement, Bob Dole just bought a black car...

Bob Dole, I have had 2 black cars. My current one is the Camaro. Nothing looks better than a cleanly washed and waxed black car.

I would strongly suggest though that if this is your first black car you invest maybe $20 if that into a California Duster. It works wonders between washes. As you have learned or will learn, black will show dust very, very quickly and you just run the duster over the car and it takes all that dust off easily and takes about all of 2 minutes. I keep mine in the car. Also have a small one for the dash and stuff.

[Simply Red]

Bob Dole, I have had 2 black cars. My current one is the Camaro. Nothing looks better than a cleanly washed and waxed black car.

I would strongly suggest though that if this is your first black car you invest maybe $20 if that into a California Duster. It works wonders between washes. As you have learned or will learn, black will show dust very, very quickly and you just run the duster over the car and it takes all that dust off easily and takes about all of 2 minutes. I keep mine in the car. Also have a small one for the dash and stuff.

yep, this worked wonders during the pollen season, here.

[Bob Dole]

how's it run?

Every bit as well as advertised... The 0-60 in 5.5 ain't fudged a bit.

And driving home from Austin last week she pulled a nice 29mpg. Has all the bells and whistles you'd expect in a car that cost a lot more.

[mikeyis4dcats.]

Not this.

http://www.dccarcare.com/waxsuit.html

[Brock]

http://www.dccarcare.com/waxsuit.html

Oh, ok. I didn't realize we were talking the spray on stuff at the car wash.

[Bugeater]

http://www.dccarcare.com/waxsuit.html
That's strange, because they all still advertise the stuff as "wax".

[Bob Dole]

NICE! When? What year?

Just rolled over 900 miles on the way in to work this morning.

2011 Genesis Coupe 3.8L Track.

[Silock]

That's strange, because they all still advertise the stuff as "wax".

But it isn't. Doesn't actually have wax in it.

Just do yourself a favor and buy some Collinite 845 wax. Do your clay bar and then wax it. You will love the results, and it will last a long time.

[Simply Red]

Just rolled over 900 miles on the way in to work this morning.

2011 Genesis Coupe 3.8L Track.

I like the calipers. That's always a good look, the red.

[Bugeater]

But it isn't. Doesn't actually have wax in it.

Just do yourself a favor and buy some Collinite 845 wax. Do your clay bar and then wax it. You will love the results, and it will last a long time.
Actually, I'm wrong. Now that I think about it, they call it 'clear coat' now. They did call it wax for years though, that lawsuit must be why they changed it.

I googled the Collinite and apparently the sell it at Advanced, which is where I usually go. I'll have to give the stuff a try.

[Tytanium]

OK, this is going to sound weird, but I'll do my best to explain it.

there's a spot on my hood where the paint has oxidized and looks like a wood table where a cup of ice water was left overnight, sortof a white colored chemical reactionary change, not sure... Maybe a leaf baked on it, or something, ..prior to my owning it. But - I just wonder if the bar would help w/ that. It's not REAL noticable, but I WOULD like to get it off of the hood area. In the sunlight, it's a minor eye sore.

Clearcoat oxidation can really only be removed by wetsanding (if it's really bad), or by aggressive machine polishing. It's not unfixable, and doesn't necessarily require a re-spray of clear, but it does take some elbow grease and a lot of time.

Klasse, Zaino, and Zymol are all excellent brands. Zymol is probably the most expensive, but I would use Klasse on my own car.

[Simply Red]

Clearcoat oxidation can really only be removed by wetsanding (if it's really bad), or by aggressive machine polishing. It's not unfixable, and doesn't necessarily require a re-spray of clear, but it does take some elbow grease and a lot of time.

Klasse, Zaino, and Zymol are all excellent brands. Zymol is probably the most expensive, but I would use Klasse on my own car.

SAND YOUR CAR?! :eek:

Please elaborate, you can't just stop there. :)

[Rain Man]

I can make some recommendations, but first I need to know what you're going to use it for.

[Tytanium]

Wetsanding requires a flat surface, soaking wet 2000 grit sandpaper, and very, very little pressure. It's a good way to reduce orange peel, and you still need to polish afterward with a variety of grits and pads. Doing one really bad panel from wetsand to final polish would probably take upwards of an hour and a half.

edit: this is not for the faint of heart. I wouldn't plan on doing it unless you've got an old crappy car that you can practice on first.

[Bob Dole]

I like the calipers. That's always a good look, the red.

And they're functional, too. :) Can't go wrong with Brembo's...

[Silock]

Wetsanding requires a flat surface, soaking wet 2000 grit sandpaper, and very, very little pressure. It's a good way to reduce orange peel, and you still need to polish afterward with a variety of grits and pads. Doing one really bad panel from wetsand to final polish would probably take upwards of an hour and a half.

edit: this is not for the faint of heart. I wouldn't plan on doing it unless you've got an old crappy car that you can practice on first.

There are lots of polishes he can try before wet sanding. But it isn't that scary :)

[Frosty]

Optimum Car Wax.

http://www.optimumcarcare.com/owax.htm?li=4

It's a true "wipe on/wipe off" wax that is super easy to apply and lasts a long time.

I usually do a full detail a couple of times a year. I use Optimum Poli-Seal for a light polish and then top it with Opti-Seal. Then I just use optimum Car Wax every time I wash in between details. OCW is good enough, though, that you could use it by itself if you are just looking for quick protection without a ton of work (looks nice, too).

Another nice thing about OCW is that it doesn't stain trim. In fact, is does a nice job on black trim. My wife's CR-V has a ton of the stuff and it keeps it looking nice and black.

http://i40.tinypic.com/29xfypu.jpg

[Tytanium]

There are lots of polishes he can try before wet sanding. But it isn't that scary :)

All I'm saying is that if you've never done it before, I definitely wouldn't do it on a newer car. Random orbital polishing is the easiest method to try before wetsanding, and I would definitely do that first.

[Simply Red]

additionally I wish there was a solution for chrome trim, the polish i've used, all suck. @least the ones i've tried, do.

[Bugeater]

Another nice thing about OCW is that it doesn't stain trim. In fact, is does a nice job on black trim. My wife's CR-V has a ton of the stuff and it keeps it looking nice and black.

And that is exactly what I hate about waxing, I spend more time cleaning the shit off of everything else on the car, not to mention cleaning it out of all the nooks and crannies. It wasn't so bad before they started putting all the plastic bullshit on cars.

[Bugeater]

additionally I wish there was a solution for chrome trim, the polish i've used, all suck. @least the ones i've tried, do.
That's because it's not true chrome, it's coated plastic.

[Frosty]

And that is exactly what I hate about waxing, I spend more time cleaning the shit off of everything else on the car, not to mention cleaning it out of all the nooks and crannies. It wasn't so bad before they started putting all the plastic bullshit on cars.

Seriously, try OCW. Unfortunately, you have to get it online but it's worth it IMO.

Meguiars has a similar product, available over the counter, that has some fans on Autopia but I haven't tried it. I haven't had the best luck with Megs stuff, especially when it comes to trim.

[HemiEd]

**** car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

The clay bar is a cleaning method, just the first step. I use the Mother's 3 step clay bar kit (http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07240.html) on occasion.


I kind of like Zymol (http://www.emmonscoachworks.com/ecommerce/catalog.cfm?cat=57), it is old fashioned, and lots of work, but wow it works good.
They have some pretty pricey ones, but hey, a paint job costs a lot now.

[Munson]

Zaino is the best wax I've ever used. It is expensive, but its worth it. Its a thousand times better than any of the stuff you'll find off the shelf.

[Simply Red]

I agree with the clay bar then wax. Also Wallyworld sells a small electric buffer for about 12 bucks. You apply the wax and buff it off using two different pads. A whole car takes about 20 minutes. That's if you would the whole thing...

nothing electric for me, it seems to eff up black paint. @ least w/ what i've seen.

[Simply Red]

btw: If you all ever see Invisible-Glass by Stoner, pls buy it, it's amazing, that glass cleaner just pwns the cloudy/foginess that is on your interior glass windows.

[Tytanium]

I agree with the clay bar then wax. Also Wallyworld sells a small electric buffer for about 12 bucks. You apply the wax and buff it off using two different pads. A whole car takes about 20 minutes. That's if you would the whole thing...

Only do this if you like swirl marks. Never never never use anything other than a professional quality polisher, especially if it's rotary and not random orbital.

[Bugeater]

I agree with the clay bar then wax. Also Wallyworld sells a small electric buffer for about 12 bucks. You apply the wax and buff it off using two different pads. A whole car takes about 20 minutes. That's if you would the whole thing...
I have a buffer, the problem with that is there is so many nooks and crannies it won't get to that I still end up having to do by hand. And that still doesn't eliminate all the detailing I have to do afterwards to clean the wax off of everything else.

[MIAdragon]

nothing electric for me, it seems to eff up black paint. @ least w/ what i've seen.

Dude what you need to do is take it to a pro detailer, pay the few hundred its going to cost to fix all the issues and use the products he recommends to keep it nice.

[Bob Dole]

btw: If you all ever see Invisible-Glass by Stoner, pls buy it, it's amazing, that glass cleaner just pwns the cloudy/foginess that is on your interior glass windows.

They carry it at Walgreen's here...

[threebag]

Butter wax.

[loochy]

additionally I wish there was a solution for chrome trim, the polish i've used, all suck. @least the ones i've tried, do.

I use Turtle Wax Ice to polish the car in between waxings. The stuff looks good everywhere. It makes the paint and plastic chrome have a nice shiny finish. If you put it on rubber or textured plastic trim it restores it to a deep black shiny color. It does the same on painted metal, such as on your windshield wipers. It's good stuff.

[Bugeater]

I dont have any pics of cars I have used the buffer on but it's probably a 5" orbital. Here's a pic of the last turd I polished with it.
ROFL Please tell me you DIDN'T really wax your lawn mower.

Actually the smaller one would likely get to some of the tighter areas better, I have a 10" orbital which was great when I bought it 20 years ago, but not so much on today's cars. It was worthless on my stepfather-in-law's RAV4, there wasn't a flat piece of sheet metal anywhere on that damn thing.

[Bob Dole]

If the Zaino products aren't all that, Bob Dole is coming after some of you to recover his beer money.

[petegz28]

If the Zaino products aren't all that, Bob Dole is coming after some of you to recover his beer money.

You won't be disappointed. I would urge you however to go to their website and read the tips and tricks. I posted it here too I think I page 2. And follow the directions. You will not be disappointed.

[Groves]

btw: If you all ever see Invisible-Glass by Stoner, pls buy it, it's amazing, that glass cleaner just pwns the cloudy/foginess that is on your interior glass windows.

QFT

[Silock]

I agree with the clay bar then wax. Also Wallyworld sells a small electric buffer for about 12 bucks. You apply the wax and buff it off using two different pads. A whole car takes about 20 minutes. That's if you would the whole thing...

I hate electric buffers for waxing. They seem to waste a lot of wax. Good for polishing, though.

Plus, you get a better workout by hand :)

[Silock]

If you want a REAL beginner's buffer, try this one:

http://www.autogeek.net/po.html

[HemiEd]

I can't believe nobody commented on the $8500 wax I posted, you fuckers are snoozing.

[Bugeater]

I can't believe nobody commented on the $8500 wax I posted, you fuckers are snoozing.
Sorry, you lost me when you said "lots of work".

[HemiEd]

Sorry, you lost me when you said "lots of work".

Clay bars are "lots of work" to me.

[ModSocks]

Zaino is the bee's knees. Good money for it too though. But it can't be beat IMO.

However, our shop is required to say "Meguiars" since they sponsor us. Not That i would disagree.

Meguiars for store bought, Zaino if you're really serious about the shine.

1. Rinse
2. Wash
3. Rinse
4. Clay bar
5. Rinse
6. Wax
7. Polish.

[Bob Dole]

Zaino is the bee's knees. Good money for it too though. But it can't be beat IMO.

However, our shop is required to say "Meguiars" since they sponsor us. Not That i would disagree.

Meguiars for store bought, Zaino if you're really serious about the shine.

1. Rinse
2. Wash
3. Rinse
4. Clay bar
5. Rinse
6. Wax
7. Polish.

The supplies should be here by Saturday. Bob Dole could probably use a demo if you're free.

[ModSocks]

The supplies should be here by Saturday. Bob Dole could probably use a demo if you're free.

Sure, if you wanna let me test drive that Genessis from San Diego to Texas, cannonball run style.

Be glad your car isn't like mine: Satin Black. I have to spray that thing down with Windex everytime I wash it. I spend two hours every week cleaning my car.

1. Rinse
2. Wash
3. Rinse
4. Dry
5. Wax Hood, Sail panel and deck lid (all HOK Gloss black)
5. go over the rest of the car with a dry Mircofiber cloth and a bottle of ammonia free windex to get the streaks off the Satin
6. Go over all the rubbers with Mother's "Back to Black" (Excellent product BTW)
7. Dress the tires
8. Get all the streaks out of the damn windows.
9. Interior detail which includes dash dressing etc, vaccume, polish all the carbon fiber and Gloss black panels...


PITA. But worth it.

[tooge]

wow, I didn't know this many guys go about exterior car care like this. I get my truck washed whenever it rains, and thats about it.

[MIAdragon]

wow, I didn't know this many guys go about exterior car care like this. I get my truck washed whenever it rains, and thats about it.

I like my shit.

[Groves]

I get my truck washed unless it rains, and thats about it.

This is how we roll.

[CrazyHorse]

Clay bars are "lots of work" to me.

They will give you clean paint to wax with no contaminants. Once you put a good coat of wax on it though you shouldn't have to use the clay again for a year or so. It depends on whether you keepva good coat of wax on it or not

If you let the wax wear off then the paint gets contaminated again.

[Otter]

Mothers Car Wax

http://www.mothers.com/

[MahiMike]

Most pastes are good. Just stay away from the lazy man's liquids. Waste of time and $.

[CrazyHorse]

Any pure carnuba wax can't be beat. Brand don't matter as long as its pure carnuba

[Pants]

Jesus H. Christ. I spent literally 3 hours cleaning my car the Sunday of 49ers game and I was so proud of myself when I was done. Turns out, that shit was child's play. Now I gotta go get all this shit and claybar and wax and polish? You guys are killing me. /sigh

[Dayze]

if i ever get a cool car, I would keep it immaculate.

...but, that'll never happen. lol.

1 more payment on the 'ol Chevy Malibu; then I'm driving it until it's dead.

[ModSocks]

if i ever get a cool car, I would keep it immaculate.

...but, that'll never happen. lol.

1 more payment on the 'ol Chevy Malibu; then I'm driving it until it's dead.

Put some 26's on that motherfucker and paint it purple.

Bling bling!

[Dayze]

Put some 26's on that motherfucker and paint it purple.

Bling bling!

lol

...I think there's a name for those kinds of rides...but I can't remember it.
i've seen a couple old cutlasses with HUGE rims. looked hilarious..

I'm thinking of glueing some Boss Hog bull horns onto the hood though.:D

[MIAdragon]

lol

...I think there's a name for those kinds of rides...but I can't remember it.
i've seen a couple old cutlasses with HUGE rims. looked hilarious..

I'm thinking of glueing some Boss Hog bull horns onto the hood though.:D

Its a donk G.

[HemiEd]

They will give you clean paint to wax with no contaminants. Once you put a good coat of wax on it though you shouldn't have to use the clay again for a year or so. It depends on whether you keepva good coat of wax on it or not

If you let the wax wear off then the paint gets contaminated again.

I know, but you need to go read the whole thread and catch up. :)

[Bugeater]

if i ever get a cool car, I would keep it immaculate.

...but, that'll never happen. lol.

1 more payment on the 'ol Chevy Malibu; then I'm driving it until it's dead.
If you're willing to put the work in, you can even make a shitty old car look pretty good.

[Bwana]

Most pastes are good. Just stay away from the lazy man's liquids. Waste of time and $.

Dead nuts on the money. They will look ok until the first time it gets wet......useless.

I always use a buffer when I do my stuff, but it's a pain in the ass.

[Dayze]

If you're willing to put the work in, you can even make a shitty old car look pretty good.

true.

but mine's a Malibu Maxx.
there's not a drop of cool in that car.:D

[El Jefe]

**** car wax, use a clay bar. It's much faster, cleaner and does a better job.

This post has probably already been rebuffed, but I'm not reading this entire thread.

You don't just use a claybar, the clay bar gets any contaminents out of the paint and essentially removes the gloss/protectant off the top of the paint. When you wax the car it re-protects the paint, so to be done correctly you must do both steps.

[El Jefe]

If you're willing to put the work in, you can even make a shitty old car look pretty good.

THIS. Outside of my Charger I never had a head turning car. Everything I drive is maticulously taken care of, no matter how it looks.

[Stewie]

Nu Finish. I hate waxing my car and this seems to last a long time.

[Simply Red]

hai mf'ers!

Fittin' to wax blacky in a carport.

Going to Target, what SHOULD be there in way of carwax? Which non-industrial compound would you recommend?

[MIAdragon]

hai mf'ers!

Fittin' to wax blacky in a carport.

Going to Target, what SHOULD be there in way of carwax? Which non-industrial compound would you recommend?

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/images/MegsGCShampoo64.jpg

then this X2

http://www.instawares.com/products/D/DOT-325045_711200655335_Full.jpg


then this.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/cleaningpolishing/57353.jpg

then this

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/G7014EU.jpg

then get this to use between waxes.

http://www.aallpaints.com.au/shop/images/Meguiars_Quik%20Detailer.jpg

[Bugeater]

Jesus Christ, don't shop for car stuff at fucking Target. What the hell is wrong with you?

[Brock]

Jesus Christ, don't shop for car stuff at fucking Target. What the hell is wrong with you?

ROFL

[Simply Red]

Jesus Christ, don't shop for car stuff at ****ing Target. What the hell is wrong with you?

oh but it's a stone-throw. Believe me i know the industrial is better, that's all we have is 'industrial' at the office. For the LCD's and label removal, etc (glass cleaner and label remover, case and cover cleaner for the plastics).

[HonestChieffan]

car wax and claybars do two totally different things.

nice and gentle. Well done. Not sure how one assumes they are interchangeable....

[HonestChieffan]

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/images/MegsGCShampoo64.jpg

then this X2

http://www.instawares.com/products/D/DOT-325045_711200655335_Full.jpg


then this.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/cleaningpolishing/57353.jpg

then this

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/G7014EU.jpg

then get this to use between waxes.

http://www.aallpaints.com.au/shop/images/Meguiars_Quik%20Detailer.jpg

Cannot be improved on. Period. Hope Meguiars products dont go to shit now they have been sold.

[Shogun]

I've used Turtle Wax's "Ice" products for over a year now and am overly happy with it.

[rtmike]

Zaino Brothers

Best stuff there is

http://www.zainostore.com/

I used to use & promote nothing but Zainos until I tried some stuff called Adams. I just thought it was a local boy trying to carve out a piece of the pie but the stuff outperformed Zainos.

On occasion using the Quick Detail it would leave a fog. Reapplying didn't help, buddy sprayed some Adams on & it shined right up.

Zainos is good, I just really like this Adams. Their microfiber towels are the shit!

http://www.adamspolishes.com/


Too bad you weren't nearby SR since I really enjoy detailin' a car out & would prolly do it for the cost of materials.

[Simply Red]

http://i51.tinypic.com/14mqr07.jpg - I didn't buy all of it, tho.

[Simply Red]

that spot is gone, by the way. ... Entirely.

[Simply Red]

I used to use & promote nothing but Zainos until I tried some stuff called Adams. I just thought it was a local boy trying to carve out a piece of the pie but the stuff outperformed Zainos.

On occasion using the Quick Detail it would leave a fog. Reapplying didn't help, buddy sprayed some Adams on & it shined right up.

Zainos is good, I just really like this Adams. Their microfiber towels are the shit!

http://www.adamspolishes.com/


Too bad you weren't nearby SR since I really enjoy detailin' a car out & would prolly do it for the cost of materials.

ha ha, thanks Mikey! ;)

[Bugeater]

Awesome! Buy one get one free!

[Simply Red]

Awesome! Buy one get one free!

ha ha, yeah, i was @ nuts-n-berries. They just started re-carrying the Kombucha tea by Synergy. It's amazing.

[btlook1]

http://i51.tinypic.com/14mqr07.jpg - I didn't buy all of it, tho.

Tell me your a pimp right?