kenmore dryer problem....help

[theultimatekcchiefsfan]

ok my dryer quit heating. I figured no big deal ordered the new heating element and it worked fine.......................until the second load. Noticed it wasnt getting hot checked heating element and saw wasnt coming on. Shut down for 24 hours turned dryer back on and heatin element worked again. shut off and turned back on heating element not heating up again. Ordered new thermal cutoff kit (thermostat) and put both pieces on. Dryer worked one load and heating element quit working again. Now I cant get heating element to come back on at all. What is left to replace. Also dryer runs, just heating element not working.

Reset wall breaker just in case. What else should be replaced next. Already 90 dollars into this project so hate to call repairman. Ps plus checked air flow thru dryer hose, seems fine.

Kenmore model 110.63952102
I replaced this http://www.partselect.com/PS344597-Whirlpool-3387747-Heater-Element-5200W-240V.htm?SourceCode=7&SearchTerm=110.63952102&ModelNum=110.63952102

and this http://www.partselect.com/PS334278-Whirlpool-279769-Thermal-Cut-Off-Kit.htm?SourceCode=7&SearchTerm=110.63952102&ModelNum=110.63952102

I have searched all over the web, but thought this place has alot of smart people that always seem to be able to help. Please help. thank you.:banghead:

[Donger]

I believe that dryers have a thermal overload protection switch. If the dryer gets too hot (or the switch "thinks" it is getting too hot because it is failing), it turns off the heating element.

Have you tried drying on the lowest setting to see if the heating element stops on that setting?

* Edit - Yeah, it would probably help if I actually read the rest...

[cdcox]

Did you check all of the air pathways for lint?

[jet62]

Do you know how to use a volt/ohm meter? There should be a wire diagram on a placard or folded up somewhere on the unit. With the unit unplugged and turned on, check continuity (ohms scale) from one of the plug prongs through the timer switch. If it reads open, check it from the other plug prong. If it now reads continuity the switch is good and you should use that plug prong for the rest of the checks. If no continuity, the switch is bad. Next in line is probably a thermal cutoff. Check continuity from the plug prong and through the thermal cutoff. If it is open, you have found the problem. If not, move on to the next part in the circuit until you find the bad part. This is the only way to troubleshoot without guess work.

You can fix any appliance in your house if you can troubleshoot with a volt/ohm meter. Good Luck!

[R8RFAN]

Just because a part is new does not mean it can't be defective

[Baby Lee]

Does your unit have a moisture sensor? Parents had a dryer sensor go out and it went the other way, leaving the heater element on throughout the cycle and drying clothes to a crisp.

[sd4chiefs]

I could help but I would have to charge you an $80 service fee.

[boogblaster]

yea its prolly the over-heating sensor .. mine did that .. plus check the wire to the sensor it could be burnt ...

[milkman]

The answer to all life's problem's.

Antifreeze.

[Dylan]

lol

[Bump]

You will just have to buy another dryer probably that is also made in china. They're only designed to last a couple of years so that you have to buy another one.