Ill take acceleration over top speed 10 times out of 10

No doubt. Once you hit 100-110 even if pulling you arent pulling hard.

That hold you back in the seat gforce is the shit.

Thats why I want to build a car for the Optima Ultimate Street Car Challenge one day.

Autocross, 0-60-0 mph challenge, 1/4 mile.

All around fun.

I've seen all kinds of people post a 3.9 time for their 0-60 time. I think it will accelerate fast enough.

Exactly. Thats why i bought my wrx. All traction and plants you in the seat all the way up to 90

I kicked a WRXs ass onto the freeway the other morning as we were both first in line next to each other getting on a two lane on ramp and he wanted a go at it.

I'll take acceleration over top speed all day too. I'd much rather put my foot in it for accelerating rather than fly down the freeway hoping not to get a ticket. Wife says I should change my 4:10 gears back to 3:55, but to me without huge horsepower in my Stang (360), the bigger gears are the best part of the car for awesome acceleration.

Yeah stick with 410s . What do you have a 4.6?

My wrx puts down about 280 with the stage 1 tune and an exhaust. Pushing about 19psi.

It just fast enough to have fun in, and be able to daily it as well.

Yea 4.6 GT with powerflow intake, 4:10 gears and Lunati Cams. More car than I need and shit gas mileage, but one hell of a daily driver for someone like me who's never been big on cars!

I would think swapping the gears back to the 3:55, which I do have, would maybe only change my gas mileage 1-2 MPG? Not sure all the money to do that would be really worth it.

I like the WRX a lot and I thought I'd probably go that route before I got a chance to buy the Mustang. I personally never thought I'd own an American car. lol. Great ride you have.

I dont know 2hat year your car ie but if its newer than 1996This might sound wierd for an american car, but bring it to a tuning shop if its never been tuned. American cars are known for running rich as hell. They should be able to get you a few more horses and better gas mileage and make it more reliable all together. These newer cars with computers running everything are finnicky about what you add to them

It's a 2005 and it's been tuned a bit. I also own the SCT Flash programmer as well.

Here's my lady that I posted earlier in this thread.

http://i.imgur.com/bZE9TbJ.jpg?1

Nice bro. Heres mine http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...c5992c14a9.jpg

I have said it before, but I really loved my corn fed big turbo WRX. Made 362whp in it. Great car.

Its not worth the money to swap the gears, you're going to pay more in labor than you would save in a year in mpg and the fun factor would be greatly decreased.

Transmission held up at 362 hp?

Definitely really like that car. It's the route I was going to go as well. I like the sporty hatchback because it drives better than a regular car with more practicality of hauling some small items. I've only ever owned 2 doors and it's a pain in the ass most of the time.

I had a massive $150 grocery trip using the 'Stang as my grocery getter yesterday. Ugh........

BOOM!

I keep saying this as well as the gear swap is likely $500+. I'll tell the wife that Mr. MIA rang on CP and told her to STFU!

$500 would be a cheap gear swap.

Damn. Even if I own the other gears?

Also, my Stang is part of the airbag recall. Dumb and childish.

You never want to reuse gears, they are almost impossible to set up correctly and will whine like a bitch.

And the money I pay you guys for your knowledge is well worth it.

Thanks!

Now that I got the Hellcat my 79 Vette is going to get lonely. Anyone interested in a badass C3? http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4994408485.html
I'd be willing to accept a partial trade, as my daughter is nearly sixteen and will need a car soon. Here's the add text for those who don't want to go to CL.

101,000 miles
Paint is not perfect but looks better than almost all the other C3's I looked at last year.
No rust underneath. Very clean!
Interior is not perfect but, again, better than almost all the others I looked at when I was shopping for one.
Good T-Tops with carrying case

Here are the new parts I put on it. Everything is fresh, with less than 500 miles since the install.
Blueprint engines motor BP3834CTC1 but with the upgraded roller rockers. Came with 30 month or 50,000 mile warranty
Rebuilt automatic transmission
Rebuilt rear end
DeWitts Radiator - Cost about $1,000 - part number 4139077A - Engine will never overheat!
Hi-Torque mini starter
Rebuilt alternator
Hooker headers - full-length ceramic coated
Full exhaust including Magnaflow hide-away mufflers
Front coil springs and insulators
Edelbrock Performer Series Street Fuel Pump
Wheel spinner kit
Corvette logo valve stem caps
Borgeson Power Steering Pump and Conversion Kit. I learned the hard way that the factory setup is prone to leaking and other issues.
New brake master cylinder
Front Spreader bar
Completely new A/C system, including compressor, accumulator, lines etc.
New heater core
Spark Plugs NGK-7405
Harmonic Balancer
Torque Converter - 2300-2600 Stall
Flexplate
Spark Plug Wires - Moroso
New bushings throughout most of the car. Some rubber and some poly.
New Reproduction Wheels. They look just like the factory wheels but are chrome. I also still have the factory wheels.
New Mickey Thompson tires - all four
Bilstein Shocks - HD fronts
Bilstein Shocks - Rears
Rear Leaf Monospring - Composite Fiberglass 340lb
Brake Pads & rebuilt one or two of the calipers
U-Joints
Tie Rods
Idler Arm
Ball Joints
Motor Mounts
Stereo - When I got the car someone had put a crappy CD player in it. I replaced it with a Retrosound Model Two Digital media receiver. It looks factory and is what a lot of people put in classic cars.

I know there are other items that I replaced but the list above is from the receipts I could find.

The stuff I can think of that it needs...
The passenger side mirror is a little loose. Need to pull door panel and tighten bolts.
The antennae is broken. I bought a replacement but haven't installed it.
Needs new turn signal switch. It is loose. You have to hold it to signal left. Right works fine.
Needs some part installed to correct the speedometer. I can't remember what my mechanic called it.

I'm still in the engine break-in period so I haven't really got on it yet but this car has a ton of power compared to stock. It also sounds like a bada$$ car. I get tons of compliments on it. I've got over $25,000 invested. Willing to take a loss as it will just take up space in my garage.

Yep, and I have since sold it, it still runs around town, ragged out a bit, but still on same build and tranny over 60k miles since build.

Nice man. Mines getting a new tranny under warranty right now.

Im probably not going to get anywhere close to 362hp but ill squeeze a little something more out of it.

Id like to get a nice mild suspension for it so i can track it a couple times a year. But other than that its going to be my daily driver.

This.



Lew it's not worth it to change those gears.

Just discussed this with the wife. She's on board now and understands! You guys kick ass. YES YES YES. She also told me since she's off Monday and I'm not, that I should take her car to work. I think she wants to run the Stang while I'm at work. :eek:

Uuummmmmm dude, she is definitely wanting to run the stang.


It's usually a race to the tuck when I have it at home.

I've never taken any car Ive owned to a dealership for work. Had to for this airbag recall. Said 1.5 hours. 3 hours later they feed me a line of bullshit about defective part in one they were to install and had to get part from another dealership as this was their last airbag here. I hate dealerships.

LOL Don't buy a Deere.

My mechanic is always so timely. This is a joke. How long does a ****ing airbag take?

I ****ing hate dealership and the service writer model. I realize why they do it but when someone like me who knows a good amount about the car asks to speak to the techs/mechanics, I should be able to. Especially when the service writer isn't relaying the information that he is supposed to be relaying.

The "expert" Mazda techs at a local Mazda dealership had my wife's 3 in for 3 days on one occasion and 2 days on another because it was chewing up tires. I had changed the strut and nothing looked bent. The ****ers spent 3 days trying to find what was making a noise in the suspension. I chewed out the service writer no less than 3 times telling him I didn't give a **** about the noise and there had to be a broken/bent suspension component because the car had chewed through two sets of tires in less than a year despite being aligned when the tires were bought. After they tried to tell me that my brand new shock was bad (it wasn't) then they tried to say it was because of the stock negative camber and because the car had soft tires (again it didn't. tread warranty of 40k on them). I asked them why it hadn't chewed through tires in the first 3-4 years of ownership and they were dumbfounded.

Took the car to NTB to try and do a warranty claim on the tires. The tire tech at NTB noticed the lower control arm was bent very slightly. You couldn't tell unless the car was on the lift and you were looking straight down it from the middle of the car.

Changed out the control arm myself and then called the service department manager and chewed him about for about 30 minutes about how his "expert mazda techs" (his words) completely missed that and it cost me a two tires. I asked him for a discount or credit for two new tires and he refused to do it. I tell everyone I know that's looking for a Mazda now to go test drive them there but to buy them at the Arlington Mazda dealership.

3 hours and 10 minutes later I have one new driver side airbag.

Forty minutes for the airbag, two and a half hours for test/joy ride. Did you check your odometer? :hmmm:

Wow. Crazy shit there. Two bolts hold that thing in iirc. Ten minute job

Yes I did. Looks legit. Walk around the car and they didn't **** with anything. Asked if I wanted a free wash and I said, "please don't touch it." ROFL

Yup, that's what I figured. ****ing asshats I think forgot about it until I went back up and asked them what the deal is. DEALERSHIPS are reerunED. I wouldn't even get a warranty with a car if I had to deal with that shit. And no, I've never had a warranty for a car anyway.

That Mazda 3 needs rear upper adjustable control arms.

seriously it's never taken me more than ten minutes to change an air bag in the steering wheel

I'm just surprised that someone chewed out people 4 times and ends up without a car for 5 days and doesn't get any sort of discount.

I try to be very polite when someone has my car and fixing it when I can't see it. They could royally **** up my life and I try not to be rude to them, kind of like hoping they don't spit in your food if you send it back. But at the 2 hour mark I got a bit testy and said it made no sense. I told the guy I would be very upset if they hadn't even started on it yet. Let's hope they didn't loosen a few bolts on my car.

LMAO

They told me 6-8 weeks to take delivery on my car. Going into week 10. It's built, still in Canada sitting in another plant waiting to "install additional parts".:mad:

Should have bought a Ford~ :evil:

LMAO

Anyone ever work on parking brakes? Having trouble with mine on a 96 trans am.

Issue?

I'll tell you my parking brake doesn't engage in the slightest. Completely useless.

On the mustang?

Yes. Read it's a common problem with them.

Damn. Snap a pic of the rear of the wheel from under the car and post it if you want. We could probably get pretty close to what's wrong by a couple pics

Where exactly are you talking about? Rear wheel?

Typically there is adjustment in the linkage.

yeah. Rear wheel. Basically like you would take a pic of the backside of the rear wheel from underneath

Disc or drum?

The mechanical part works to the round circular piece with notches that triggers the brake, but it only works on the side where the cable and roundpiece with notches resides. Shouldn't it apply the pressure on both sides? It pushes the brake pad only on the one side. The other side doesn't move so it becomes cockeyed

On the rear caliper? If that's the case I would bet the slides are rusted and frozen. That caliper should " float" back and forth on those

It's fine now. My wife hit a massive pot hole by our house and it twisted the lower control arm just slightly. I replaced it and got the car aligned and haven't had an issue with tire wear since.

LMAO

I had a loaner for the entire time and I never paid a dime to them for them to waste my time.

I just wanted a discount on the tires that I had to replace because they had missed what was wrong on the previous visits.

They are coming out with a mod that will take my Scat Pack Shaker to 900+HP. $7K


http://www.torquenews.com/106/kenne-...cat-pack-901hp

Welp, took the slider pens all apart, cleaned them and regreased them. The calipers and brake pads sure went together easier then before. I'll have to try it out tomorrow or the next day. We've had so much rain here where I live that the 2.5 miles of gravel I have to drive out of is a friggin mess. That coupled with the Memorial Day traffic on the lake I live on has produced numerous mud holes. Hope it works. Thanks for the suggestion. I might be back with more (hope not)

Here's hoping to it being repaired, if not we will talk some more lol.

Does the scat pack have the 7 speed transmission?

KB's out side the mustangs are SHIT. 900 shouldn't be that tough on the stock blower, pulley, exhaust tune and probably meth should get you there.

8 speed

Looks like its just a supercharger and no internals or anything.

Wonder how long till that motor pops at double what it was built for~

I'm hoping some of you guys with more experience with suspension can help get me started.

I have a 67 Impala SS that I've owned since I was 16. This is the 3rd time I will go through it. Happily this is the first time that I actually have money to do it right.

Im looking for a modern low bigger rim look. Big brakes and about 5 to 600 hp. It will be. A full frame off.

I'm looking for a start on suspension and brakes. As well as recommendations for drivetrain. Currently it is a mild cam 327 with a th350 and stock non-posi rearend.

What is your budget for your suspension

I dont have one I want a good daily driver car that's why I may have to adjust on my horse power down closer to 4. I'm hoping to do engine and suspension for around 10

I dont have one I want a good daily driver car that's why I may have to adjust on my horse power down closer to 4. I'm hoping to do engine and suspension for around 10

Do you want to keep it original? If not, slap a 6.0 LS motor in it with some heads/stroke and a big fat cam and be happy with your 500 whp

Its not Number matching anymore the original 283 was stolen

What's your budget total?

Lsx motor/t56

Air ride suspension

V2 cts-v brakes

Custom forgeline wheels

Should get you started

Then do this with it.

http://www.lordzofkustomz.com/TOYZ%2...E/P1010535.JPG

That's almost exactly like what my car looks like right now except for I have got the wagon springs in the back so it's got a lot more height in the rear end

The problem with that body style is you always have to have your rear end a little higher than your front to make it look good see how that picture actually looks like it's squatting in the back and I can't decide Wheels & Tires 5 to fill the front wheel wells and make the back wheel wells look good

Whatever driveline you put in it, don't forget the rear end. That 10 Bolt axle isn't going to hold up to 500 HP so it would be wise to budget for a Ford 9 inch, or at the very least a 12 bolt though the 9 inch is the better axle.

What year is that? It looks different in the back than most models around that time.

67 or 68. I just googled 67 SS Impala and went with one of the first results.

10 bolt will hold up to the motor as long as you dont EVER launch it :P

my old black TA was pulling wheels on stock 10 bolt~

To be honest though, I expected it to explode any time I got on it.

Not sure if you have a REAL problem or just an adjustment issue. After re-doing my back brakes, (new rotors, pads etc) i had to re-adjust it. Basically, just pop the park brake and throw the car in reverse. It tightens it up.

01 'bird with rear disc brakes.

I've seen them grenade with surprisingly little provocation.
As long as he sticks with some 14" Uniroyal's it'll be fine but with some tires that will actually grip and put 500 HP to the ground that 10 bolt will be the fusible link in the circuit.

Im actually debating putting new tires on my current TA. If I put decent tires on there im nervous I will pop that 10 bolt like a pimple~ So for now im sticking with some worn out all seasons and just cruising lol

The first is a 67 that has had all emblems removed.