Lp. It wasn't any big deal and wasn't nervous at all. Remove the valve and there is a wide open hole to let any gas out and this one had been sitting for a long time.


On another note. A couple of months ago I replaced a broken heating element and 3 fuses as a precaution on our cloths dryer. It apparently burned out again today. Anyone have an idea what could be causing it? Maybe just a bad Chinese made replacement element? Debating trying to fix it one more time or just bite the bullet.

Heating element or bad connection probably.

My buddy sells this stuff and I had a dryer that wasn't getting as hot as it needed to, and he said at 10 years old we could replace the element, but there is a bunch of other stuff that probably needs replaced too.

Just pull the trigger on a new one. He recommended Speed Queen. I'll vouch. Good unit.

To have been working on my arts and crafts project a little more.

Very cool.

I flash burnt my eyes with the plasma last week. I swear it was worse than any welder burn and made for one terrible night. Took several days for my vision to clear up at a distance and I'm still wearing sun glasses when I shouldn't need them.

Plasma cutter?

Yes. Plasma. Worked great.

I lit this test left handed for mahomes.

I have an issue I'm hoping someone has a known-proven solution to resolve.

I have a work vehicle that was left in a shop-garage all winter. Mice got into it and wreaked havoc. I've dealt with the obvious grossness of turds in cup holders and cleaned out the other messes previously. The new issue arose when turning on the AC...stinks to hades.

I had the cabin filter changed and a dead mouse was removed from the fan area inside the dash. It still stinks like hell.

I've heard rumors of some ozone treatment or something, but I was hoping someone here knows the right answer about what to do.

Air compressor and ****ing blow everything?

The next thing I'm going to try is blowing lysol or something into the air intake vents. If there is a guru product or can't miss, I'm interested.

We had a spare chevy work truck that the seat caught fire by a loose cig butt. It melted the bench seat before it could be extinguished. The boss took it to Royal Auto and upholstery at about 47th and Troost near the Plaza where we had an office then. They refoamed the seats and upholstered it and used some sort of Jasmine scented liquid to kill the oder. We like the burnt smell better that jasmine never went away, something like that will cover it but it may be worse than dead animal smell.

That's exactly what I would try first. Perhaps mist some bleach water in there? That would also have the bonus feature of killing off any hantavirus it would come into contact with. Just be careful not to over do it and have it come into contact with a bunch of electronic equipment like a radio.

These may not matter to you at all, but it IS a covered loss, at least for most policies.

I was getting ready to replace the liner on my Camaro after I got in one spring and a goddamn mouse had gone in through the visor and built a cozy little nest in there over the winter. Called my agent on a lark and he said "yup, comp claim, send it on over...."

So rather than drop $1,000 having that re-done, I was out my $50 comp deductible and they did it for me. Evidently animal damage is covered. My dad said they had a fleet vehicle get totaled once when an animal got in there and died, funked it up so badly they couldn't get the stink out.

I mean if it's covered (and it's evidently not a 'chargeable event' so it shouldn't impact your rates), you just send it somewhere and they deal with that shit for you.

Just a thought...

This stuff works pretty well also.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would pull the radio, and clean the top of that, if they managed to get that high? Blow some air through the vents with an air compressor from the inside of the car to flush the turds out. I would definitely wear a mask rated for an airborne virus. Like I said before, hantavirus is nothing to mess with. Once the radio is out, you should be able to douche things up pretty good through the vents etc. When I spent several years in the car business, I think I had to deal with every kind of smell out there at one time or the other.

What I was thinking was lysol into the vent under the hood and windshield...that air intake. I saw that on the yoootooob.

Misting bleach water into the vents from the inside also makes sense.

Kill it with fire Iowa

I don't know if Lysol kills hantavirus or not, I would dig into it. Bleach water will, but it would take a bit more time for that to dissipate. I knew a gal that died from hantavirus a couple a years ago and after that, I'm more careful around mouse crap.

I have used an ozone spray in all vehicles. dodges seem to get moldy over the winter.

Cant hurt. Not sure how well it works on mice

My brother-in-law can take apart a car engine, clean it, and put it back together perfectly: he can tear down a shitty single layer deck and create a 3 level masterpiece; he can do plumbing, electric and sheetrock; he can build an entire house; he can build furniture and built-in shelving; he can pretty much do any handyman task.

I on the other hand can't do jack shit including trying to use a saw, a T square or a hammer! I'm ****ing useless as a craftsman. I only know how to Google search to hire one.

You might want to make sure the drain for the evaporator housing in not clogged. Even if it's only clogged a little bit it can still leave some nasty smelling water sloshing around in the bottom.

I wonder who insurance companies recommend when a dead body is found in a car after a few weeks. The guy that got the job of cleaning and deodorizing the KCI suicide in parking lot that wasn't discovered for nearly a year. Id seek that guys advice.

Nasty nasty job

Did who ever pulled the fan make sure there there wasn't more nest above it?

Try soaking rags in Oderban, and stuffing them under seats, in dash vents and even to wash surfaces with. Sams Walmart Amazon

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....WL._SX425_.jpg

I'm not sure why I do so many things the hard way.


This weekend I bought a scoop for my tractor. It's an old one, and I had figured out the source and what the guy had paid for a tractor that had this scoop. I ball park surmised it a similar size to my tractor and I put on a buyers clinic that would make you all proud. I offered half price and we tussled and sparred and lobbed arguments as to why each were right. I pull the pin and raise my final offer $100. He's going to have to take a beating. He wants another 50....I say I respect that he has to draw a line and so do I and I walk to my truck. The gentlemen comes out before I leave and agrees essentially to my terms. I was pretty proud of myself on the rife ho,e.

I get it home....and the front brackets are 2" too narrow....and the brackets that attach to the axels are 8-10" too long. To use this, it's going to require fire axe and welding skills beyond my known ability.

Not sure why I insist on doing so many things the hard way. I do it to save money, but now I have an old loader, that doesn't fit....my old tractor that runs, sometimes.

I know nothing about what’s available for the models you have but SOMETIMES there are adapter kits for loaders for common tractors.

If it’s just a bracket that needs work, most welding shops can do that in no time. You won’t like the money, but I’d do it. Having a scoop really increases the value of the old tractors. You’d probably get your money back out of having a welder do it.

Work out a trade for honey

Had one in my truck 2 years ago in heater. Called dealer in Clinton MO where I bought it and they said no problem we have the stuff that will kill the smell...they dug out the nest, did magic with some stuff and it never smelled again...They used a BG product for odor control

Recently had someone recommend Water Heater maintenance.

Cut off water supply to tank.
Drain completely.
Turn water supply back on.

Is this recommended every year?

Actually turn off the pilot hook garden hose to the spigot at bottom tank run hose outside or to a floor drain. Close the water supply to tank open hose spigot drain the hot water off. Then turn the water supply to the tank on let run 1/2 to an hour to flush the crud that builds up in the tank. This they recommend at least once a year to get the longest life expectancy of the tank.

Yes, especially if you have hard water. Also, it's very important to cycle your temperature & pressure relief valve to make sure it's working properly. It's the only thing standing between you and a blown tank if the heater fails and overheats the water inside

I do mine at least every 2 months gobs of mineral grit every time

Make sure you cut power off to it when u drain it

Wait...so having a water softener will make my water heater last longer?

yes and operate more efficiently

Well that's a bonus. I sort of scoffed at the fact our new place had one at first, but after seeing the difference it makes as far as all the fixtures and shower doors, etc staying cleaner I can't believe I ever lived without one.

Yes. Dramatically

Interesting. Apparently we are about to put in a Kinetico Water softener, like you I'm rolling my eyes at the cost but my wife has wanted this since we built the house 10 years ago.

Definitely, hard water deposits kill appliances.

You will not regret it.

My hot water heater is about 5 years old. I had the pressure relief valve replaced about 4 years ago. It was leaking. But the tank keeps making weird noises after a shower and such. I just turned down the heater on it. All I need is a 40 gallon hot water rocket flying around the house

Lol I just checked the heater and the owners manual. It was set to 130f, so I lowered it to 120f and let the hot water run for a while. All abnormal noises ceased.

Thanks for scaring the shit outta me handyman’s!!!

Your heating elements have hard water build up on them causing said noise. Nothing to be concerned about, it's just an annoyance

Why do you heat hot water?:LOL:

Seriously, your relief valve could be a symptom. Have you checked you total house water pressure? Many people have faulted PRV in their houses but don't know about it. It shows up as weird leaks and noises. This was further compounded a few years back when most municipalities increased the pressure in their main water lines. I find mine needs to be replaced every 4-6 years now. I check my pressures every couple of months to insure the pressure is holding at my set point (55 psi for me as I like the pressure a little high).

Thinking of making a new fish tank stand w/ a shitload of walnut I've acquired. I want to put some flourishes on it and am thinking a nice arc along the bottom would look good.

But I have a 130 gal tank so the stand is gonna need to be 6 ft wide. The arc needs to be proportional to the stand so I'm thinking about 4 inches high from the base.

So a circle jig for the router is out - it'd need to be about 12 feet long to get a long enough arc. I could try to build an eliptical jig but even that would probably need to be about 8 feet long; maybe 6 depending on the second pivot point (my math skills fail me trying to figure that one out; would take some serious trial and error...)

Anyone have a better idea for cutting a long arc? Best alternative I can come up with is a shop-made drawing bow, tracing the arc, getting as close as I can with a jigsaw and then doing some real careful spindle sander work.

Surely there's a better way to do this but I'll be damned if I can come up with it. Thoughts?

I haven’t had any issues since I lowered the temperature on it. The guys who installed it were morons (never using them again). They installed a valve on top that you couldn’t shut off. If you tried turning it it would hit the exhaust pipe lol so they literally put the valve on upside down. Had to have them come back and fix that. When I had my furnace done a month later I found out that they didn’t install the exhaust pipe correctly into my chimney (had to have them come back for that). I installed the previous one with a friend of mine and had no issues. These idiots are supposed to be professional plumbers.

Find someone with a CNC router and beg them.

I think I might have this figured out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ09XPqBX28

Building that track rig at the bottom of my workpiece and then making a 3.5 ft circle jig might get the job done. I just set it for a 3 ft radius circle but then put a second pivot point about 4 inches from the router bit, I can I keep that second pivot in the horizontal track while making a nice long 3-ft run for the perpendicular track and the 'bottom' pivot point. That SHOULD give me a 6 foot arc that's held flat by the 2nd pivot wheel tracking along that horizontal run.

And at that point I'm manually forcing the shape, so I don't have to **** around with the math.

So that oughta be an interesting experiment that I'm sure I'll just give up on...

Carpenters have been doing this shit for a hundred years without CNC routers.

I knew there had to be a way to do it - spend a week with someone that really knows their stuff and you'll just be blown away by the tricks they have figured out.

I should just ask my dad's buddy - he's a trim carpenter turned general contractor who knows all kinds of cool jigs and stuff.

Right, but find someone with a CNC is probably what I'm capable of :D.

Tell us how you’re cutting the arc?

If a router, you can either cut a template using a 12ft scrap secured to your router and your floor or a bench leg or whatever. Then use that template to guide your bearing on the router.

Or you can use the 12ft scrap to guide your router on the actual piece.

If a jigsaw, then draw your line using the long pivot, cut your arc, clean up with spokeshaves or a circular plane (Stanley #113 or #20.) Mind your grain direction.

Another way to make your arc is something you already, a thin piece of almost anything will flex evenly and you can put on nail in the middle and one nail on each end to establish the curve. Draw your arc from that.

The real carpenters will chime in shortly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There was a girl showing how to use a router to cut circles. She was hot and 4-5 months preggo.

https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/D9ne...ut_circles.jpg

And how far along is Kevin's pregnancy? Geez, haven't watched in a few years, but he's really puffed up in the face. . . . Is he on medication? I remember how meds puffed Jerry Lewis up something fierce there for a while.


---------

As for the arc templating. Normie used to shape large diameters with a pivot jig and a bandsaw.

He outlines the concept in the second segment here, about 15min in.

<iframe width="798" height="579" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kRy1leeQnqc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Making some progress on the new miter saw setup

https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/pict...pictureid=1947

Got the hood put together and the cabinet/drawers built. Hinges should be here shortly to mount doors then I'll trim the top out with some curly maple and put a hardboard top on it to make it slide smoother. I'll use MDF for my feed tables on either side as MDF gives the flattest profile.

That 12" slider w/ a 60 degree cut needs a wiiiiiiiide hood to not interrupt the range, so I'll create a couple of sliding doors to close the face when I'm making a straight cut so I can keep the suction up. I ran a new trunk over to that side of the shop so my 2-stage collection system has plenty of oomph for the job, but I can't have that wide an opening without wasting a lot of suction.

Once I get the Kreg stop system mounted to a couple of fences and get those installed, that table is going to be incredibly functional and by having 2 vents cut into that hood, I'll get pretty great dust containment. Awfully excited about how much that will help workflow.

Success!!






The angles/measurements ended up just nuts on; literally a quarter inch to spare on the back. I'm going to wire in an internal outlet in the hood so I can make a small punch through the back to run a new cord and essentially 'power' the table and then plug the saw inside the hood itself. I really think this rig's gonna kick ass when all is said and done.

i'll probably get too clever by half and 'skin' the inside of the hood w/ some hardboard as well to get read of those rough spots on 1-sided ply that A) look like shit and B) will trap dust. It should be pretty easy to cut to fit and brad nail into place.

Looks good DJLN

Thankya sir; got my wings built for it yesterday during the draft so I just need to get the fences installed and the track hooked up and it'll be fully functional. Then it'll just be hanging the doors and trimming it out.

Got a deal made on a 14" bandsaw yesterday.

1.5 hp motor I'm going to rewire for my 220 circuit, has a riser setup installed so it gives it 12" resaw capacity. With that much ass, it'll fly through most re-saws apart from real hard woods. It has a true rail system for the fence so you slap a tall re-saw fence on there and it's almost infinitely versatile.

I have a ton of rough cut walnut I got from my wife's grandma when she moved (over 100 boards that are about 1.5-2 inches thick and 8-10 feet long). I'm not gonna lie - I'm getting a hard as a diamond in an ice storm thinking about the veneers I can make with this saw and that walnut. I can do a bunch of 1/16 walnut veneer that's about 8 inches wide and could turn something as simple as that miter saw table into something that looks furniture grade by just skinning it with that walnut.

Have spent about 2 years talking myself out of buying a bunch of custom cabinets for my bathroom because it's about $10 grand. Well **** that - I can buy a couple of boards, make veneers and some new doors and rock and roll. I'll pay for this new saw 10 times over if I can get that all dialed in. I'll probably experiment by putting veneers in my gloss black fish tank stand.

Yeah. **** bathrooms. I’m getting bids on mine - nothing fancy - and mother of God. It’s a ****ing poop shack folks. It can’t be THAT expensive can it?

Anyone have good knowledge of garage doors? I have a single car garage that has extension springs on it now that I'd like to convert to a torsion spring so I can put a direct drive opener on it.

I have overhead storage mounted to the ceiling above the door and there isn't room for a chain drive opener.

I had the Overhead Door company come out for a bid and they were quoting over $1200 for it, which is more than I was hoping to spend, and I wanted to see if I could do it myself. ($1200 was for the spring change, as well as an opener, it was about $500 for the spring portion alone)

The biggest hangup I am having it trying to figure out what I need for the torsion spring setup.

It is a 7x8 110 lb door. I know I'd need the torsion bar, probably just one spring, and things like the brackets and cables and drums and such, but I can't figure out exactly what I will need for it all and there doesn't seem to be a "set" of those, I just keep seeing all the parts instead.

I have time on my hands, and think I could get it done for half of what the bid was for at least, I just want to make sure I do the spring right if any of you know what I need to look for?

Not so much handy per se but after installing shower towel bars, hand towel bars, toilet paper bars, and robe hooks in 4 bathrooms, I'd like to offer the hardiest mother**** you to mini allen wrenches.

T handle set (Harbor freight) for larger sizes but this is what I have for small sizes.

Love it

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/mVQAA...kTN/s-l640.jpg

T handle set (Harbor freight) for larger sizes but some small ones too.

SAE: 1/16 in., 5/64 in., 3/32 in., 1/8 in., 5/32 in., 3/16 in., 7/32 in., 5/16 in., 3/8 in.
Metric: 1.5m,2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...3/63167_W3.jpg



I have both but this is the go to.
Love it

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YNcLxrd9UMs?start=8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>





https://66.media.tumblr.com/ee761eb3...3o5_r1_500.jpg

Have new, black stainless steel appliances. Of course a toddler also lives in this house.

Life hack learned today. He managed to scratch a large portion of the lower panel. Using a light polishing compound first, followed by a carnauba wax, about 80% are gone and the deeper one is much less noticeable. Thanks car care products!

try a black magic marker followed by clear nail polish let sit overnight wet sand then polish

We now have all brand new Samsung black stainless steel appliances in our kitchen. Thankfully my only kid is moving to Nashville tomorrow. They might just be safe...

Ours are Samsung too! We’re twins.

And now you know the trick for light scratches they may get!

Only child huh? Did he turn out ok? I’m thinking mine might be an only.....

Well that depends on your definition of "ok"...lol.


Nah, he's a good kid, stays out of trouble...doesn't cost me much money anymore...I could have done worse and honestly surprised I didn't.

Dont see many pictures of workshops here but this is simply awesome...

<blockquote class="twitter-tweet"><p lang="en" dir="ltr">This is a pretty cool family treasure to have! <a href="https://t.co/22kzCaNgYw">https://t.co/22kzCaNgYw</a></p>&mdash; Ryan Goodman (@beefrunner) <a href="https://twitter.com/beefrunner/status/1305483618895101955?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">September 14, 2020</a></blockquote> <script async src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

That's probably Buehler's.

lol

Any "My Self Reliance" fans here? He took Dick Proenneke and his idea up a notch. I started watching weekly 1.5 yrs ago and I rarely miss now.

Dude is gonna have a compound built in another year. He's working on a woodshop now.

If you do subscribe, bring a flashlight for the rabbit hole.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WmYCUljsrDg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Dimmer switch question.

I have 2 separate switches that turn on/off my living room lights. One in the actual living room and one in the stairwell leading to/from the living room. I only need the dimmer on the living room switch as the stairwell switch is simply for anyone navigating the stairs in the dark and even then there's a stairwell switch right next to it sharing the same plate.

That said, can I install a 3 pole dimmer switch on just the switch in the living room that I utilize or do I have to replace the stairwell switch as well?

Yes, you can have a 3 way dimmer on just one of the switches, I have a room set up that way in my house.

Been too long but I think your other switch will not always be up for on depending on the "master's" switch position.

New dimmer switch has 4 wires, but I only have 3 coming out of the box.

Feel I know how to connect the 3 but not seeing a ground wire coming out of the box to connect to the new switch.

Can I connect the ground wire to the green ground screw on the accompanying switch inside the box? If not, where do I go with the ground wire on the new switch?

https://i.imgur.com/tg2vaz6.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/cf2KQSg.jpg?1

WTF is there orange wire in your electrical box?

If there is a bare wire coming into/out of that mess send the ground back on it.

From what I've gathered the one with paint on it is the main power, the other 2 are travelers.

No bare wire in the box. From what I understand the box is grounded via a metal conduit, which may be a Chicago code thing. The house is brand new FWIW.

I just capped the ground wire from the dimmer switch and connected the others and it seems to work fine.

I'm open to any critique or feedback on that though as I've clearly never messed with electric at any level.

That looks like it could be a fun expereince!

The green screw on your old switch is screwed all the way in. Was it not in use? Is there not a bare, or possible green, wire back behind that mess of orange?

Screwed all the way in, nothing connecting to it. No green wire present. There were a couple white wires capped together but neither with a bare end coming out of the box.