Maple roots tend to grow close to the surface, sometime making it difficult for turf growth. An area where there is 'good' run-off may make this matter worst, potentially eroding any fill that is left above the surface roots exposing them even more. I would suggest that if you do plant a maple of the east side, try to perhaps to redirect the 'good run-off' around the tree rather than directly over the tree base to decrease the chances of erosion.

You should have to worry too much about a weak maple on the east side. Maples that snap are usually a result of sun scalding. These are young trees planted on the west or south side of a home. On a sunny day after a harsh cold snap, or long winter, the inside of the tree will start to grow quicker than the bark/exterior of the tree causing the sun scalding where you see the trunk split. This leads to a weaker mature tree.

I dont know what your specifications are with a tree, but you can't go wrong with a Eastern Redbud in Kansas.

Bradford Pears

http://dforeman.cs.binghamton.edu/~f...in%20Bloom.JPG

& Rosebud trees are nice in the spring.

http://image40.webshots.com/41/1/80/...3srdOsK_ph.jpg

How about the State Tree of Kansas? Not much shade, but at least it doesn't take a lot of water.



http://i.pbase.com/o4/42/618542/1/53....PowerPole.jpg

May I suggest a hedgeapple tree. When it starts bearing fruit, the hedgeaples make great weapons! We used to throw them at cars as they drive by.

Don't pick a tree based upon what it looks like for 2 weeks in the fall or for a week in the spring. Pictures on the internet or on marketing labels are vastly misleading and show a tree at the height of it's attractiveness. You'll be looking at that tree for 50 other weeks of the year. All the other factors should be higher on your priority list.