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All right, got something for you guys. I have been killing off the area in my backyard that was overrun by shrubs and poison ivy with the weed killer, and it has been effective to a point where the leaves is brown and dead. I have mowed it over without any issues.
The issue is, I am wanting to re-seed that with grass, so the question is, do I need to do any tilling in that general area to tear up the roots that may be buried that the weed killer may have not reached, so that poison ivy won't regrow? |
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Btw, I have a weed problem too. I have clusters of Creeping Charlie in my yard. That crap will NOT die!! I used Ortho Weed B Gone earlier this spring, but it only 'browned' the leaves. Now it's back w/ a vengeance and our entire yard has patches of the chit!! We bought a different weed killer today, but I'm not optimistic that it will work either. I'm about ready to call in the pros!
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If you used a strictly broadleaf killer like 2-4D product (typically Ortho Weed B Gone), you can do it now. If you used a broad spectrum herbicide it will depend on how much residual control was in there. I'd suggest going to where you bought the gunk and asking the question. Some of the OTC stuff can be up to 3 months. As far as tilling goes, I don't think you'd necessarily have to, but there may be some benefits. I don't think you should if you have bindweed. Bindweed can regrow itself from it's roots and plowing does absolutely nothing to kill the weed. If you don't have any bindweed, I think you're probably free and clear to do what you want. It maybe beneficial to till it up (espcially if there is existing grass worth saving) if it needs smoothing or you need to improve the watershed. One thing I would most definitely do if I were you is spray rather frequently with broadleaf control products. If those plants have gone to maturity even once, then they will have dropped a billion seeds you will have to fight forever. Be careful not to get any on trees, shrubs, flowers, pretty much anything but grass (be careful of both overspray and drift if you are using much of a nozzle at all.) Weeds suck a fat dick. Good luck! |
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Any recommendations on both how much and what type of wood sealer would work best for a 5' high cedar picket fence? I have about 100 feet of fence, total, and would need to do both sides, obviously.
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When I sealed my fence (Olympic from Lowe's), it needed to be redone in 3 years. That's when I went with a stain (Home Depot, Behr, I believe). Claims to last 10 years on fences, but I certainly wouldn't hold my breath. That said, it would be better than the sealer. And you won't want to do this chore again in only 3 years. |
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If you spray it, you'll lose a shit ton of product, plus you have to chase it with a brush anyway to avoid dripping and to apply an even coat. Brush, take the time, and do it right. Ultimately you'll save money and have a better end product. My fence looked like a million bucks, and the neighbor who sprayed had an embarrassing looking fence (with some shit on his house b/c the stupid mother****er was careless). |
Cool.
Thanks. |
Definitely don't use a garden sprayer, you'll never get an even coat. And while brushing it is the most desirable I've put it on with my airless sprayer plenty of times, not everyone is willing to pay me what it would take to get me to brush an entire fence.
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I can't even imagine the labor cost for this endeavor. I had 180 feet of fence, so I was looking at about 30 hours of total work. Mother**** you, cross-beams!! Mother**** you!! |
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