I appreciate that and in a perfect world he would, but we're going to do it, it's been decided.


Getting started is the biggest concern. If we get started properly, I'm pretty convinced we can do it and have it look fine. I'm assuming it's essentially like tile in that you've got to find the correct place to start so it finishes correctly, with the exception of starting near the edge instead of the center. I know there are a couple of flooring guys here....and if they were closer I'd see what could be arranged.

Loco, you go getting fancy on me about fishing terms and I'll shit in your tackle box.

I didn't read through this thread so sorry if it's a re-post but... you can clean pennies with taco bell sauce.

Anybody ever put up snow fence? I'm tired of having to push out the same 4 foot 20 yard wide 50 yard long drift every year in the driveway when we get a blizzard. Am thinking of two seperate fences about 80 feet apart to the NW prevailing wind. Any tips/secrets?

Your brother's name is Hickory?

That's ironic.

I've done quite a few laminate floors, never done hardwood but I imagine it would go down in a similar fashion. Stagger your joints, undercut door jambs and leave 1/4" gap around the edges.

In kitchens I've always squared it up to the largest section of cabinets. As far as other rooms I square it up in the most visible area, generally where you walk into the room, and go from there.

But I'm far from a pro so take that FWIW. notorious does this for a living so you may try PMing him if he doesn't pop into this thread.

I've wondered about them as well, I have nothing to break the wind to the north and my driveway sits a foot or so lower than the ground around it. And to make matters worse I have a 4' retaining wall on the south side, so I end up with a shitload of snow in it.

Understood

You might want to look at this if you're serious about putting one up.

Installing a snow fence......

My basic question was how far away from the driveway. This basically says 35 times the height. So for a 4 foot fence it should be no closer than 140 feet in real windy areas like mine. (top of a hill with no cover for miles)

Where are you getting the Hickory?
The small hardwood mill in Quasqueston Iowa has awesome prices for 2nds, perfect for cabins. Plus its all Iowa hardwood grown.
http://www.wlumber.com/

So while this thread is live, I have a question. We had a leak from a cracked bathtub upstairs. It caused water stains on the downstairs ceiling. The ceiling has that popcorn coating (or whatever its called), so will a paint roller work OK with that, or will it just take all the popcorn off?

It's dicey. When textured surfaces get wet, often it will loosen the texture and it will fall off when you roll it. Are you just going to paint the water stained area or the entire ceiling? And has the ceiling been painted before, or is it still raw?

Oh hell...my lot isn't anywhere big enough for that. The neighbor's yard is about 20' to the north. I've seen people put them up in the city, usually about 10-15' feet away from their driveways and I've always wondered if they did any good.

It's been painted before and, from what I've been told, I'll probably have to repaint the entire area to get everything the same whiteness. So I'd like to do the whole thing I suppose.

If I were going to the trouble of repainting the ceiling, I'd knock down the popcorn. It's "out".

I did it, just need a tarp, spray bottle and a wide drywall knife. Spray lightly, wait...scrape repeat. Then killz the stain and paint.

It depends. If you happen to have the same paint is was painted with before and it's not too discolored, you should be able to touch it up alright. Either way, I wouldn't roll the water stained areas, seal them with kilz and brush them in.