I would assume he's referring to something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-B...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
However you will have to find a way to install that somewhere you have access to the wiring & also that is somewhere outside that light will get to it. The most obvious spot would be in the fixture itself, just not sure what exactly you're trying to hook this thing to and if you'll have room. Other than that it should just wire into either of the wires going to the fixture.

Honestly I was more referring to just buying a fixture with the photocell already installed, but if you're attached to the ones you already have you're going to have to go this route.

Honestly the timer shouldn't be too bad to install assuming you actually have a common wire. However the other thing to consider is whether or not the existing switch is a 3 way. The easiest way to tell is if there are 2 switches that control that same light you'll need a 3 way switch.

Thanks for the help.

This is the only switch that controls these lights. I got my timer switch in the mail just now and will do this project tomorrow afternoon.

Please pray for my safety.

It's 110. You won't die. You just won't love life.

V=IR --> I=V/R --> R=V/I
W=VI=I^2R

You should be fine, just make sure you kill the breaker before doing any work. Also something I just thought of, assuming you do have the white wires in the box you may want to double check if they are "hot". If you're house is newer it probably won't be, but at my house (built in the 70's) the circuits are wired "backwards". So that the white wires are hot & the blacks are actually the neutral.

The switching is done on the neutral wire which works fine except that the light socket is always hot so if someone were to stick their hand in there they will get shocked even with the switch off. I always forget about it & just a couple weeks ago had to repair a light fixture turned the switch off thinking it killed power to the fixture & got a little jolt. Which is another reason you should always kill the breaker, not the switch.

However the reason I mention it is because if that is what you have it will probably burn up your new switch.

I want to put a motion sensor in my garage. I see some sensors have a watt limit. Like this one is 800 watts
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-...0-WH/203606977

I am running 5 200 watt bulbs. i want light.

the lights from the garage door openers do not give enough light.

My garage is huge. It has everything shown here.
http://www.centrahomes.com/wp-conten...7440907273.png

Replace them with LED with similar lumens.

Those are 70 a light.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Westingho...6200/300958119

These are 22 from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IJQTS5O..._t1_B01LZAUOYI

That's what I'd do. You could quit being a pussy and get the 54 Watt bulbs :D

This morning I was awakened by my kids asking what a sound was....brideowanian goes to investigate and hollers.

One of my PEX shutoff valves under the kitchen sink had popped during the night and was spraying a solid stream of watcher inside the cabinet....under my wood floor, down the inside of the wall, into the basement carpet and ran under the door Tom my vault and was under...the wood floor I have in there. I had a damn mess.

It's Sunday in a small town...hardware stores aren't open...people are gone for spring break and in church. I shut off the water and send four Tex messages. In half an hour I have located a supply of per tools and hardware includimg two valves.

I spend four hours shop vacuuming and rug doctoring up water. I've got fans blowing and a couple of dehumidifier blowing. I then used my super duper handyman skills to clip the pex and put in a new valve.

It's a pain in the ass and I'm trying to decide if I need to open up the walls to blow air into them....but it was a day the MRs was glad to have hitched up to a deplorable than some bun wearing snowflake.

Sounds like you got it under control but one easy way is get a 4 inch hole saw, put in 4 inch duct and pull air out of the void....u can even put back the 4 inch piece the hole saw makes...

Try to do it at the very low point where it wants to drip out anyhow...if nothing drips out you're good

That sounds like a plan. How do you propose pullupint the air out, through the shop back?


I've heard of pen joints failing and leaking and I've heard of valves leaking, but the handle of this valve was 6" from the rest of it and it had sprayed quite a while in the night. Not sure what caused it, I suppose a pressure siege from rural water.

Wither way, I'd like to kick the guy who put this valve together in the nuts.

If you get it dried out within 72 hours mold shouldn't be a concern. What part of the valve failed? I've seen water lines blow but never a valve.

The actual valve knob/handle just explode. The handle was broken off and water was spraying from that spot. N ver seen or heard of it before.


If the carpet isn't much better tomorrow I'll pull it up.

My biggest dilemma now is the holes in the wall....necessary or not? How many?

The good news is I have spray foam insulation so I'm not worried about that being wet.