****, idk. Im even on a different computer than i was earlier and still cant see them.

One of my browsers never liked CP photos. Maybe Chrome?

I don't have any other photo hosting things so I don't really know how else to get stuff from my desktop posted online.

Hmmmm....

I am on chrome and can see them.

Detox is just ****ing high as a kite.

Im on chrome too, lol.

And im working on getting high as a kite. Not there yet though, but working on it.

Im the best version of my CP self when im high as a kite.

Me too

I think Detox is just ghosting me...

"What - you want free advice....oh no, I can't see your photos!"

;)

Oh hey look i can see them now, haha. Dafuq

How wide is the front wheel? Is that a 17x8? Do you know the backspace on that wheel?

I thought it was 9 when I put a tape on it, but I think I measured wrong; it's probably 8. Surely nobody would've put a 9 up there. But when I measured lip to lip from the inside of the wheel, it was 9 inches.

And no, i don't know the backspace (because I don't know how to do all that).

I really should've just watched some youtube videos and done all this stuff myself. I'm not completely worthless around a car and a tape measure.

My new toy :D

https://i.imgur.com/zR0WbGI.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/50B3iRU.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/5qoYpJN.jpeg

That's an M8, right?

Duuuuuude - that's pretty badass right there.

Yeahp, an M8 Competition. I love how low and sleek it is.


Wanna buy my old M2?

Does it have a 3rd row?

It has a first row and a second row just big enough for my 9 year old son. LMAO

Im taking a look now.

But when i look at what's available to me, there's no aluminum 15" Rally. I have access to a 17" Aluminum Rally.....are you familiar with the Salt Flat Special? Similar, not the same, but similar. Can do those in a 15".

Here's the recommended back spacing for the front, as per American Racing:

15x7 = 3-3/4" Back Space
17x7 = 4" Back Space
17x8 = 4.5"-4-3/4" Back Space.

If you're willing to do a 17" Aluminum Rally, that's model number VN506 and they currently have 17x8" blanks available.

If you wanna take a look at the the Salt Flat Special, that's a VN471. Those can be done in a 15".

Congrats dude. Great looking coupe.

Got a company called "Rev Wheels". Never used them before, but they're a Holley brand. They offer a silver painted Rally in a 17x7 through 20".

Probably a lot cheaper than the American Racing variant, they're aluminum. But they're painted/machined, not polished.

https://www.holley.com/products/whee...s/107S-7700600

Looking more and more like if you want a 15" Rally it's gonna be steel.

Yeah - I think you're right. Probably just going to go with steel.

Like I said - it has 17s on it now. So unless I swap out the drop spindles, I don't see any way to put 17s on there, put them out where they need to be and not have to worry about fender rub.

I think that's really the issue - i just don't want a dropped look and there's no way to avoid that with the drop spindles in front. Take those out and I get the floor raised, then I can get the more aggressive front/back stagger I'm looking for.

Guy that restored the car wanted a more pro-touring look and that's just not the look I'm after these days. So I think I putting ordinary spindles in there with the coilovers will buy me as much space as I need. At THAT point I may be able to get away with the 17 and add the sidewall I want (though at that point it may just be too much tire/wheel).

And it would probably look/drive better than trying to fit 15s under there with the drop spindles in.

Damn - those Rev Wheels look awfully good. Exactly what I'm thinking; classic look, not too flashy but not the cap/trim ring steelies look either. Just a clean and finished Rallye wheel.

Whats your thought on the drop-spindle? If I swap those out, am I maybe on the right track?

Really doubt it's the drop spindle. Part of the drop spindle's purpose is to correct the suspension geometry when the car is lowered, so the wheel properly tucks into the wheel well.

It's much more likely your rubbing issue is caused by:

1. Incorrect front wheel offset. Even in your picture they seem to protrude a bit much. Gotta confirm that backspace. Start there.
2. Incorrect tire size.
3. Suspension misalignment

Hard to say without having the car here, but that's what we would check first.

I asked my lead tech (so you know it's not just me saying this) and he agrees that it's likely nothing to do with your drop spindle.

Also, how much of a drop is the spindle? 2"? 1.5"?

Our general rule of thumb when it comes to drop spindles is that, if you're only trying to drop the car an 1", dont use a drop spindle but instead use the adjustments in the coil over.

If you want to go more than an 1", then you use a drop spindle otherwise over adjusting the coil over etc will result in poor suspension geometry.

Gotta remember, a 17x8 is an oversized wheel for a '67. So if you're gonna squeeze something that wide with mostly stock suspension, your backspacing needs to be on point. There's no room for error in a wheel that wide in a car that old.

Which is why for my RETAIL customers, we always recommend a 17x7. More room for error in tire sizes, poor alignments etc.

Hmmm....

So hear me out. I'm mostly just trying to make sure I don't get in a spot where I'm stuck with wheels I can't use/don't want.

If I get the coilovers, that should buy me some extra space. And then if I go with the 17x7s and pull them back inside a little, that should buy me a little more. And with 450 lb springs that should take a lot of the bounce out of it (or would you suggest a 550 lb spring?) and help me even a little more.

And if, should ALL that go to hell, would theoretically still have the drop spindle issues as a last resort to buy more space?

Mostly I won't want to build myself into a corner where the only thing I can do is stick with the look it has now and the shorter sidewalls. Or hell man, maybe the different look of the wheel and white letter tires will just visually look different enough that I get the look I'm after anyway.

Man I wish I knew what that silver camaro actually had on it. That would save me a lot of headache. I just don't know where I got that picture - found it years ago.

EDIT: Well hell, that was easy - it was for sale on BringATrailer

15" rally wheels all 4 wheels. 215/65 up front and 275/60 in back.

Man, I just think steels are the way I'm gonna have to go. Because that's probably how he's able to do what he's doing there. I want to say my sidewalls were 35 in the front and 45 in the back (but I don't have my damn car right now and forgot to write it down).

See my previous post? I dont think the drop spindle is your problem. I don't think a 17" wheel is your problem either (other than you wanting a more classic muscle look).

I think you simply have the wrong wheels on.

You need to measure those wheels out that you have so you can get a point of reference. That's where you need to start. I gave you American Racing's recommended backspacings that you can use to compare to what you have.

It's also possible you have a shit alignment. Space can be made in your alignment as well. IIRC, you're using Global West's negative roll control arms, right?

Yeah.

We actually shimmed the shit out of those to get that alignment as good as we could. I don't think that's the issue because I actually made some pretty good gains when we installed them and worked them over for a week or so. I never did replace the lowers as it didn't seem like that was going to really make a big difference. I guess I could do that as well if need be.

Detox is on it. Those wheels have the absolute wrong backspacing and that tire is tall AF for a 17" IMO.

To give you a comparison though I know this is NOT the look you are going for.

These are 18" wheels on front that are 8" wide. I have an aftermarket front clip but there probably isn't much more wheel well than what you have in that Camaro, my car is considerably smaller. That's a 9" wide tire if memory serves me correctly, its up in the fender well, sits lower, and doesn't rub.

Doing what you want to do sitting much higher should be a piece of cake.

https://i.imgur.com/BHWSkE0.jpg

So here's my plan (as of now):

15x7 in the front, US Wheel Series 57 chrome steel wheels on all 5.

235/65 tires should fill the well and if the backspacing gets figured out, give me enough space with coilovers and heavier springs to avoid the rub. Think I'll go with 550 lb springs just to be safe - I'll give up a little ride quality for peace of mind.

Great looking Whip, Loochy. That's a nice ass ride.

Between the car and your quads, I'm not sure how your wife can keep her hands off you!

It's funny you say that. When I was walking out of the locker room the other day at the gym, some guy told me "she doesn't care, does she?" I replied "nope!" We proceed to have a nice little conversation about how muscles and cars just attract other dudes that like cara and lifting weights. And it's true because my wife doesn't gice a damn about either.

Well that's simultaneously the most useless and best $75 I've ever spent...

"Chris, I don't think this is gonna work. Let me pay you for your time and I'm just gonna take the car..."

"Well I talked to my distributor and he has 500 lb coilovers that aren't adjustable..."

"Yeah, let's just go ahead and write up a ticket and you can go get my keys for me..."

Wasn't gonna leave that sucker there another day. Man that's bizarre.

Sounds like one of those old school mechanics. The kinda guys who know what they know; what they learned doing basic repairs many years ago and never developed or kept up with the times or bothered to learn anything new.

You just saved yourself a lot of money.

Well dude....i just put in a phone call for you to a shop who i know can handle what you need. I know them personally, they design suspension systems and have built SEMA show vehicles.

Matter of fact, they built Sammy Hagar's Mustang.

They, of course, specialize in Mustangs. However, i mentioned i have a buddy with a '67 Camaro who's in need of a competent shop to do suspension work and some wheels.

My guy said he'd be willing to talk to ya about it.

The shop is in Bourbon, MO.

If that interests you, let me know and i can PM you the shop's name, number and who to talk to.

I called my trusty Camaro guy (his was on the cover of Hot Rod once; looks just like mine but with a parachute on the back -- confused the **** out of me the first time I saw it. "Mitch! What did you do to my car?!?!).

I said man, I know you don't do wheels and ultimately I'll just take the bullet here. I'll supply everything if you will do the work. I went over all the nonsense the other guy was saying and he just says "Yeah man, you need to go get your car. I'll get you in next week. I think you'll want 4.5 backspacing on those fronts but you have discs up there, right? Maybe 4 and a quarter. We'll get it all measured up..."

{exhales with relief}

This would've been done 2 years ago if he'd have just taken it then but man am I happy he changed his mind. Charge me what you want, dude...

But thanks a ton for making some calls. If we get stuck, I'll give you a shout. Now that I've just decided to go with chrome steels, I think this should move forward fairly quickly.

I'm honestly just pretty damn excited about getting those coilovers put in. Gonna go ahead and get matched shocks for the back installed as well. Might do a rear disc conversion but just haven't convinced myself it matters. If i do it, I oughta do it now though.

Good, yeah. Sounds like you got the right guy then.

I agree on the rear disc conversion. As long as you got good discs up front and a good booster, there's nothing wrong with a good, rebuilt set of drums in the back. If a rear disc conversion isn't a pressing issue for you, i wouldn't worry about it. It's not like you're racing the thing.

So...uh...here's a strange question.

If I can't seem to find the rear shocks on this damn thing - where might you suggest I look?

I figured "hey, look under the car somewhere near the leaf springs and boom, you'll find your shocks..."

Man, I can't find anything. It's a damn shock - they shouldn't be hard to find. And surely they didn't build the thing without shock absorbers in the back.

I'll try to take a few photos but are there some common things folks will do when they build these pro touring looking cars where they'll just remove the stinking shocks? I mean...they HAVE to be at/near the rear wheels, right?

This is the first time I've ever felt truly stupid looking at this car.

BTW - ordered the Vikings; front coilover kit and rear 'factory' height shocks. Should be perfect to get that 'classic' stance I'm looking for.

Should be pretty obvious. Top of the shock should mount to the body. Should be able to see the bolt for it through your trunk next to the wheel housing. Bottom of the shock should be bolted to the Leaf Spring/Axle Perch.

BTW, i have a new Camaro Global West shackle kit that i'd sell ya on the cheap. Ive had it in my stock room for over a decade ROFL.

No idea why we even have it. If you want it, let me know and i'll sell it for much less than retail just to get rid of it.

https://www.globalwest.net/camaro-de...1971-1981.html

Man I do love me some Global West...

I'm not sure I'd actually get much out of them since I rarely throw the cobs to it (aren't those upgraded shackles usually for drag stuff?), but I love me some global west toys...

When Mitch gets it up on the rack, I'll give you a shout - may just have to take you up on that...

No rush, they ain't going anywhere i can promise you that LMAO

D'oh!

{facepalm} Shoulda thought of that.

Like I said - I feel real dumb right now. I'm in the middle of the worlds most boringest meeting right now but I'll give that a look afterwards...

That shackle kit retails for $193.

I'd give it up for $100 just to get it out of my life. LMAO

I have a whole shelf full of new parts that we've collected through the years for one dumb reason or another. Usually vendors sending us the wrong shit and not wanting it back.

I got ****in'....Chrysler valve covers, random air filters, truck tow balls....that camaro shackle kit....just weird odds and ends that are new and have value so we don't wanna just throw it away.

At the same time, aint no one got time to sell that shit either so they just sit here collecting dust. We're never gonna use it so..../shrug.

You'd be doing me a favor just taking it off my hands so i dont have to look at it anymore, ha.

I am, in fact, reeruned. Found the mount bolt in the trunk, followed it and the damn thing was right where it should've been. Black sleeve around it to match the painted underside so I just looked right past it...

{sigh}

So I have skipped most of the conversation but I know a guy who was having trouble with his rims on his Camaro. He went to 4.5 on backspacing on 15s and it fixed his issue and the stance. Not sure on tire sizes tho

Welp I’m an idiot, half a dozen posts up, DJ has his guy figuring it out. Ignore me, I’m a dumbass who was too lazy to read

But did you convince yourself that your car doesn't have rear shock absorbers?

If you didn't, you're not the dumbest guy in the thread...

No, but I did convince my teenage daughter that once every few years we have to drive to New Mexico with all our vehicles for atomic bomb dirt.


Had her 100% bought in that we had to take cars to New Mexico to put dirt on top of the transmission. That the dirt where they tested atomic bombs was needed on top of the transmission to continue to run. That the atoms from the bombs absorbed into the transmission and made the car run better. That if you hear about cars with transmission problems, they hadn’t gone to New Mexico in time.

Old cars, man....

This morning I jump in it - {click}. Nothing.

Radio and lights work, but starter motor isn't turning. I can hear the solenoid trying to fire but bendix didn't do a thing.

Throw the multi-meter on there, brand new battery pulling 11.5 volts so obviously pretty discharged. I went ahead and jumped it, tested at the alternator, about the same thing.

Popped it off, took it (and the belt) to O'Reilly to test it, failed. Bought a new one and a new belt since I had to remove the belt to get the alternator off; belt seemed fine but why not replace it?

But hey, it was an excuse to get a new battery tender. Kinda silly that I never had one - the damn thing's wired with a quick connect, I just lost my old tender at some point. Went ahead and got a top post batter shutoff as well just to make things easier in the winter.

So there's another $300 or so but hey - nobody said toys are cheap. And that's going to make the winterizing process all the easier.

{Detox} "Whats this 'winterizing'?" {/Detox}

Ha.

We gotta use those in the shop all the time. Especially with some of the Optimas are any of the non-mainstream specialty batteries.

Optimas are totally pieces of shit btw. Don't care what anyone says. Had more of those things go flat on us than any other battery.

A lot of these aftermarket electronics that are meant to have very minimal draw, will still draw enough to kill a battery over time.

Most recently we had a car that kept killing batteries and figured out it was the Remote Proximity Keyless Entry. Faulty control module. It was always searching for a signal (as it's suppose to) but the draw was too high.


But yeah...what's this winterizing shit? LOL

They're here!!!

https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/pict...pictureid=2456

I'm pretty damn stoked to get this project moving after several years of dicking around with it. Lord these things are slick.

I do wish Viking had been a little more clear in the utility of the thrust bearings. I went ahead and ordered them because everything recommended I do so. And when you put it together it's the most obvious thing in the world.

Honestly, they really shouldn't sell the things without 'em. I wonder if they're just trying to beat a specific price point ("We sell our double adjustables for the price of QA1's singles!") and can do so by having you spend another $25 for the thrust bearings.

I mean don't get me wrong - still looks incredible. I just don't think that's a question that should even be asked. "Hey, do you want to put spring compressors on your shocks to make a 1/2 inch adjustment? Or drag your springs directly against the collar while you're doing it?"

I mean c'mon - the answer is obviously no and of course $25 isn't prohibitive when the kit itself cost about 25 times that.

Just don't give the customer the option. Sell 'em with the thrust bearing.

Yup Optimas are shit. I killed 2 of them before I went to a Duracell.

I have an RFID keyfob w/ pushbutton start, and a programmable smart harness that will kill a battery in about a week to 10 days if I don't put a charger on it or use the battery disconnect in the trunk. I think its doing the same type thing looking for a signal all the time or something.

Nothing like new upgrades to get you pumped up again.