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cookster50 01-13-2010 04:15 PM

Removing a stripped bolt
 
I was working on changing an intake manifold gasket on a 2000 Saturn SL1 and in the process of trying to loosen one of the power steering pump bolts I started to strip it. I tried a Gator Grip, which is a piece of junk and did no good. I also tried some sears bolt extractors but the one that fits on isn't tight enough and the next size down I can't get to fit on. Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing removed? I have hardly any room to work in btw, not even enough to be able to hammer a smaller sized socket on it.

Stewie 01-13-2010 04:18 PM

The threads are stripped, or you broke the bolt?

Jilly 01-13-2010 04:18 PM

antifreeze???

Extra Point 01-13-2010 04:18 PM

Needle nose vise grips and a rubber mallet.

wild1 01-13-2010 04:19 PM

they sell those damaged bolt remover sets at most hardware stores

kepp 01-13-2010 04:21 PM

If it's totally stripped, you may have to drill and create left-handed threads (opposite of rightie-tightie) to get it out. I've never tried that though.

MagicHef 01-13-2010 04:23 PM

One of these:

http://www.sourcingmap.com/pcs-broke...t-p-24656.html

You drill a small hole in the bolt, and put one of these in there. The threads run backwards, so as it bites into the bolt, it turns the bolt out.

HemiEd 01-13-2010 04:31 PM

Most of these suggestions involve you gaining more room, by removing a lot of stuff.

That may be your only solution, but I have removed many with a good set of vise grips. How much is sticking out?

Demonpenz 01-13-2010 04:32 PM

Have your mom suck it out

googlegoogle 01-13-2010 04:37 PM

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

Earthling 01-13-2010 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEd (Post 6441893)
I have removed many with a good set of vise grips.

Yep. Saturate with wd-40 and let it sit for a few minutes prior.

EWOK 01-13-2010 04:41 PM

:doh!:

kstater 01-13-2010 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earthling (Post 6441943)
Yep. Saturate with wd-40 and let it sit for a few minutes prior.

Knock'er Loose

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0682337&ucst=t

EWOK 01-13-2010 04:42 PM

Use a stud puller socket (AST,Stanley,S&K, Snap-On sell them)

SLAG 01-13-2010 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earthling (Post 6441943)
Yep. Saturate with wd-40 and let it sit for a few minutes prior.

PB Blaster is better

+1 Vice grips / Channel Locks

Earthling 01-13-2010 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLAG (Post 6441953)
PB Blaster is better

+1 Vice grips / Channel Locks

PB Blaster...Thanks...I'll get some for future reference. :clap:

JD10367 01-13-2010 04:54 PM

Don't bother. Just set the car on fire.

/OwnerOfA1999SaturnSL2

Earthling 01-13-2010 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD10367 (Post 6441994)
Don't bother. Just set the car on fire.

/OwnerOfA1999SaturnSL2

Tried that once...Didn't work so well. :D

googlegoogle 01-13-2010 04:57 PM

torch work well on tough bolts.

Smed1065 01-13-2010 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MagicHef (Post 6441869)
One of these:

http://www.sourcingmap.com/pcs-broke...t-p-24656.html

You drill a small hole in the bolt, and put one of these in there. The threads run backwards, so as it bites into the bolt, it turns the bolt out.

:clap:

LaChapelle 01-13-2010 05:16 PM

Ask LT after the Jet game

Bowser 01-13-2010 05:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Guaranteed to knock it loose....

SAUTO 01-13-2010 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cookster50 (Post 6441851)
I was working on changing an intake manifold gasket on a 2000 Saturn SL1 and in the process of trying to loosen one of the power steering pump bolts I started to strip it. I tried a Gator Grip, which is a piece of junk and did no good. I also tried some sears bolt extractors but the one that fits on isn't tight enough and the next size down I can't get to fit on. Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing removed? I have hardly any room to work in btw, not even enough to be able to hammer a smaller sized socket on it.

is it actually accessed through a hole in the pulley? i would get a GOOD socket, name brand and NEW, and try that. sometimes a cheap socket will flex and round the edges.

cookster50 01-13-2010 05:39 PM

I've blasted it with PB Blaster. The thread is fine, the head is starting to get rounded. I don't have room to get a hammer in there. Guy at work said I might have to file down the head a little in order to get the smaller sized bolt extracter on it. As for removing a lot of stuff to make room, it's all the pulleys for the serpentine belt that are in the way, not sure how to remove those. I know you can get the pulley off the power steering pump assembly, just don't know yet if a pulley puller could even fit in the space I have to work with.

cookster50 01-13-2010 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO (Post 6442085)
is it actually accessed through a hole in the pulley? i would get a GOOD socket, name brand and NEW, and try that. sometimes a cheap socket will flex and round the edges.

No, it is one of the ones below and to the right of the pulley. I used a "good" sears craftsman socket to start with. I think using the larger bolt extractor has pretty much rounded it too much for a socket to work anymore.

dtebbe 01-13-2010 05:41 PM

If any bit was sticking out I'd take out the trusty mig welder, weld a short 12 point bolt on it and then remove it while it was still hot... assuming you have a mig welder. You get a good head to grip + heat all in one shot.

Owning a mig welder has totally changed my approach to these situations...

DT

cookster50 01-13-2010 05:42 PM

I don't know if there is room to get a drill in there. I have maybe 3-4 inches to work with(and no, I'm not talking about a penis). I suppose I might have to get the entire engine lifted out in order to get to it.....

cookster50 01-13-2010 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtebbe (Post 6442118)
If any bit was sticking out I'd take out the trusty mig welder, weld a short 12 point bolt on it and then remove it while it was still hot... assuming you have a mig welder. You get a good head to grip + heat all in one shot.

Owning a mig welder has totally changed my approach to these situations...

DT

No welder, though if it comes to it I'm sure I can borrow one.

Fish 01-13-2010 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Demonpenz (Post 6441896)
Have your mom suck it out

LMAO

Fish 01-13-2010 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtebbe (Post 6442118)
If any bit was sticking out I'd take out the trusty mig welder, weld a short 12 point bolt on it and then remove it while it was still hot... assuming you have a mig welder. You get a good head to grip + heat all in one shot.

Owning a mig welder has totally changed my approach to these situations...

DT

I've done this before, and I was scared shitless doing it. But it worked like a charm...

SAUTO 01-13-2010 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cookster50 (Post 6442114)
No, it is one of the ones below and to the right of the pulley. I used a "good" sears craftsman socket to start with. I think using the larger bolt extractor has pretty much rounded it too much for a socket to work anymore.

theres a reason i dont use craftsman around here.:D i actually have a set of snap on sockets that i dont use EVER unless i run into what has happened to you. i also have a set that i abuse on a daily basis. damn man thats a tough situation. the welder idea sounds like a good bet. that has worked many times for us.

Groves 01-13-2010 06:39 PM

a) I'm sure you've made sure you're removing a right hand thread.

b) Keep up the PB Blaster

c) Use a 6point socket

d) you can use heat and don't be afraid to hammer it like a nail to loosen things up. Not sure you have room for that.

e) welding another nut on is a very good final solution

f) If nothing else, can you just shear the bolt head off with a cold chisel and remove the part? This might leave you with more exposed bolt shaft to grip for removal.

g) always pre coat your hands with dawn dishwashing liquid. Then when they get greasy, it washes right off afterwards.

stlchiefs 01-13-2010 07:00 PM

Interesting info I saw today that is applicable to what people are offering here:

Removing Rusted Bolts

Mike Cyr, of Presque Isle, Maine, wrote to me about an email he'd
received from a relative. Evidently there was a study done by
Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. The story
looked at the different penetrating oils to see which one did the
best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of
torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was
scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF is an acronym for automatic transmission fluid. You can
readily get acetone and ATF, so mix some yourself and see if you
can get the same results. Thanks for sharing this, Mike!

This comes from a cool newsletter that I recently signed up for. Some people around here might find it helpful as well: http://www.askthebuilder.com/Newsletter.shtml

bevischief 01-13-2010 07:24 PM

Whatever Bugeater says to do.

Bwana 01-13-2010 07:52 PM

http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../164717_lg.jpg
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ngine/6585.jpg
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:M...big-hammer.jpg

SAUTO 01-13-2010 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stlchiefs (Post 6442282)
Interesting info I saw today that is applicable to what people are offering here:

Removing Rusted Bolts

Mike Cyr, of Presque Isle, Maine, wrote to me about an email he'd
received from a relative. Evidently there was a study done by
Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. The story
looked at the different penetrating oils to see which one did the
best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of
torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was
scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF is an acronym for automatic transmission fluid. You can
readily get acetone and ATF, so mix some yourself and see if you
can get the same results. Thanks for sharing this, Mike!

This comes from a cool newsletter that I recently signed up for. Some people around here might find it helpful as well: http://www.askthebuilder.com/Newsletter.shtml

kroil is expensive but i keep a couple of cans around at all times, also have some gibbs, works great for guns also
Posted via Mobile Device

boogblaster 01-13-2010 09:48 PM

tranny fluid works good give it time to penatrate also if you can hit the head with a punch it might help to loosen then use lockin pliers or plummer pliers .. if possible puttin a little heat from a torch helps too ...

SLAG 01-13-2010 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Groves (Post 6442234)
a) I'm sure you've made sure you're removing a right hand thread.

b) Keep up the PB Blaster

c) Use a 6point socket

d) you can use heat and don't be afraid to hammer it like a nail to loosen things up. Not sure you have room for that.

e) welding another nut on is a very good final solution

f) If nothing else, can you just shear the bolt head off with a cold chisel and remove the part? This might leave you with more exposed bolt shaft to grip for removal.

g) always pre coat your hands with dawn dishwashing liquid. Then when they get greasy, it washes right off afterwards.


These are good tips and I have had to do F my self and thats usually quicker when all else is failing


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