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Removing a stripped bolt
I was working on changing an intake manifold gasket on a 2000 Saturn SL1 and in the process of trying to loosen one of the power steering pump bolts I started to strip it. I tried a Gator Grip, which is a piece of junk and did no good. I also tried some sears bolt extractors but the one that fits on isn't tight enough and the next size down I can't get to fit on. Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing removed? I have hardly any room to work in btw, not even enough to be able to hammer a smaller sized socket on it.
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The threads are stripped, or you broke the bolt?
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antifreeze???
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Needle nose vise grips and a rubber mallet.
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they sell those damaged bolt remover sets at most hardware stores
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If it's totally stripped, you may have to drill and create left-handed threads (opposite of rightie-tightie) to get it out. I've never tried that though.
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One of these:
http://www.sourcingmap.com/pcs-broke...t-p-24656.html You drill a small hole in the bolt, and put one of these in there. The threads run backwards, so as it bites into the bolt, it turns the bolt out. |
Most of these suggestions involve you gaining more room, by removing a lot of stuff.
That may be your only solution, but I have removed many with a good set of vise grips. How much is sticking out? |
Have your mom suck it out
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:doh!:
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http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0682337&ucst=t |
Use a stud puller socket (AST,Stanley,S&K, Snap-On sell them)
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+1 Vice grips / Channel Locks |
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Don't bother. Just set the car on fire.
/OwnerOfA1999SaturnSL2 |
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torch work well on tough bolts.
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Ask LT after the Jet game
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Guaranteed to knock it loose....
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I've blasted it with PB Blaster. The thread is fine, the head is starting to get rounded. I don't have room to get a hammer in there. Guy at work said I might have to file down the head a little in order to get the smaller sized bolt extracter on it. As for removing a lot of stuff to make room, it's all the pulleys for the serpentine belt that are in the way, not sure how to remove those. I know you can get the pulley off the power steering pump assembly, just don't know yet if a pulley puller could even fit in the space I have to work with.
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If any bit was sticking out I'd take out the trusty mig welder, weld a short 12 point bolt on it and then remove it while it was still hot... assuming you have a mig welder. You get a good head to grip + heat all in one shot.
Owning a mig welder has totally changed my approach to these situations... DT |
I don't know if there is room to get a drill in there. I have maybe 3-4 inches to work with(and no, I'm not talking about a penis). I suppose I might have to get the entire engine lifted out in order to get to it.....
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a) I'm sure you've made sure you're removing a right hand thread.
b) Keep up the PB Blaster c) Use a 6point socket d) you can use heat and don't be afraid to hammer it like a nail to loosen things up. Not sure you have room for that. e) welding another nut on is a very good final solution f) If nothing else, can you just shear the bolt head off with a cold chisel and remove the part? This might leave you with more exposed bolt shaft to grip for removal. g) always pre coat your hands with dawn dishwashing liquid. Then when they get greasy, it washes right off afterwards. |
Interesting info I saw today that is applicable to what people are offering here:
Removing Rusted Bolts Mike Cyr, of Presque Isle, Maine, wrote to me about an email he'd received from a relative. Evidently there was a study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. The story looked at the different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds The ATF is an acronym for automatic transmission fluid. You can readily get acetone and ATF, so mix some yourself and see if you can get the same results. Thanks for sharing this, Mike! This comes from a cool newsletter that I recently signed up for. Some people around here might find it helpful as well: http://www.askthebuilder.com/Newsletter.shtml |
Whatever Bugeater says to do.
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tranny fluid works good give it time to penatrate also if you can hit the head with a punch it might help to loosen then use lockin pliers or plummer pliers .. if possible puttin a little heat from a torch helps too ...
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These are good tips and I have had to do F my self and thats usually quicker when all else is failing |
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