Car Help?
 

I know there are some knowledgeable car guys on here, and maybe someone can help. My 2001 MR2 Spyder has been running really rough, and I've been running in circles trying to fix it. The previous owner installed an aftermarket turbo with custom headers and exhaust, K&N intake, piggyback ECU, anti-knock system, and higher flow injectors. I've had it for 5 years and it has been working well until recently, so I don't know that the issues are directly related to any of the modifications.

So far I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, coils, spark plugs, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, MAF sensor, and O2 sensors.

It was simply running poorly (sounded like it had a dead cylinder) and not throwing codes, but after replacing the camshaft sensor it started giving codes again. Now it gives codes for misfires on all 4 cylinders, plus random misfires, and says the system is too lean.

I am about out of ideas and hoping that I'm overlooking something obvious.

Can you post the codes?

sounds like a big vacuum leak somewhere...

Not at the moment, I'm at work and the car is at home.

Hmm...

Edit: i cant read

Yeah, test the vaccuum. Do you have a hard time holding boost or building up to the proper psi?

Check all of the connectors on the vaccuum lines. They like to break right where the hard plastic nipple meets the bigger plastic part.

You can buy a vaccuum tester for relatively cheap (and it can also be used for removing brake fluid).

This. With all that aftermarket stuff installed, it seems very likely.

Start the engine, get a can of carb cleaner and spray around vacuume lines. If the engine throttle changes, bingo.

If not, EGR/Purge canister maybe?

I've had the same problem before, taste the gas to make sure there isn't sugar in it, and if that isn't the problem then sink it in a river and report it stolen

Bad distributor?

Just be careful and don't spray too much. You can start a fire by doing this.






Not that I would know anything about that....nope.....nothing at all. But it did happen to a friend of mine....yea, a friend.

Have you ck'd the antifreeze ?

Good idea.

Doesn't have one, coil on plugs.

And you checked all the coils already?

Yes, that was my first thought, as this car went through a phase where it liked to eat coils.

Did you do a compression test

A trick i used to use to test the Cat was to remove the O-ring from compression tester and screw it into the cat. I think that normal back pressure was about 10-12psi.

I did one a few months ago that came back normal. I was thinking of doing another, but decided against it due to the fact that the issue is affecting all of the cylinders.

I don't know anything about the specific model or the mods but it might be a timing issue.

I thought of that too, but it has a timing chain rather than belt. I'm not entirely sure if that eliminates the possibility of an issue or not.

They can go bad too. Not sure I've seen one go bad that hasn't broke and tore the hell out of everything while it gets wound up.

Jason is a better guy to ask than me.

If it's getting every cylinder it could be timing or a controller problem IMO. But I run Deere shit so I may be abnormally predisposed to controller problems.

I am getting a P0102 code on my 02 Monte Carlo. The MAF sensor has been replaced and I have used a multimeter to confirm power to the MAF Sensor connection wire. What else could the problem be?

Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere.

EDIT: sounds like others have given that suggestion as well. Shouldn't be too difficult to do yourself.

Brand new equipment is covered by the Deere warranty. I know you don't run anything older than a couple years.

ROFL

Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight

Did you do a wet dry compression test Leak down if anything looks iffy..

Since you are thinking T Chain:

You can check chain by pulling V\C and doing 2 things. Rotate the engine to where the 2 timing marks align between the 2 can gears and then align the yellow links to the top. Now look at the yellow links, they should be centered with a slot on right and a dot on left sprocket.
You can now check for tension on the chain between the sprockets and you can also see the the # 1 cylinder should be in TDC (valves closed) Now would be a great time to check valve clearances too.

I doubt you will find anything as Yota chains are bulletproof.

I have never seen a yota chain brake (belt sure) but they never get wrapped around anything, either belt or chain, they just fall to the side. Old 22r and Re's would get loose and the chain would cut into the cooling jackets and flood the crank with antifreeze. Catch it too late and it takes the bearings out. I have rarely seen tensioners break (wear out sure) but if you're that far along you are replacing them anyway.

What Yota runs a Deere engine anyway

It's a GM product?

Not car. Sprayer, tractors, combine.

Sounds as though your fuel is watered down , you gotta get some into a cup so you can take a swig to see if you can taste any water.

Assuming you probably did if you checked the coils, but did you also check the ignition module?

What about the setzer valve?

is that part of the nanotube high displacement transmission control arm?

I was joking...:D:D:D:D

Usually it it runs the Ign. module is good but it never hurts to check for opens or shorts.

Brian or Scott

I didnt read all the replies, but before doing all that crap I hope you checked for a boost leak.

Aftermarket turbo stuff of unknown install quality and those symptoms that would be my first thought. Too lean = unmetered air getting in.

A good rule of thumb is to never just throw parts at a car :/

Probably a good idea. I had a Bonneville that did that... changed all the coils and still ran like ass and would just die out. Changed the IM and away she went.

Gotta expense a lot of gear to avoid taxes since the corn prices have skyrocketed.

LMAO
You have the chart upside down dogshizzle!

Heh. You're read again. I didn't do it.